Twin Gauge Holder

[RRT]

Finding a place to fit the EGT and Boost gauges is no doubt a problem for most owners of a D2, was hoping to be able to modify a A Pillar mount but could not find a suitable profile in all the ones available (there might be one but I didn't it!)
tow
Purchased a Mud gauge holder for above the radio HVAC unit and it doesn't really do it for me - figured how to angle mount the gauges towards me by using a mobile drill stand and angling the cut between 30 to 45 degrees - so started looking at mounting them on the top of the instrument binnacle. Succeeded in cracking it right across the top cest le vie, out with the soldering iron and fly wire, it will look alright.

So over the last month of so looking at the twin pod mounts and finally found one that looked alright and would mount on the top of the binnacle without looking too out of place. The curvature of the binnacle is quite complex so and "3 dimensional" if you know what I mean.

It is for a Ford Ranger and now having gotten into my hands (less than $30 by the way) and profiled it against the binnacle, sits beautifully and is well out the way but in line of sight. It will require a cut in the top of the binnacle to clear the bottom of the gauges and may require a little bit of remolding but is about 95% out the box. Thinking of repainting the whole of the top black or the pod grey but its more about the gauges being easily seen for me.

One note that it does not come with mounting holes so will require these or gluing down - should also strengthen up the binnacle as well I think

Ohh it also makes a great place to mount the mic for bluetooth at the front and the low coolant led lamp and buzzer between the gauges, right in line of sight.


This was the ebay link

2'' 52mm Dual Gauge Meter Holder Dash Board Mounted Pod Hole For Ford Ranger | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/184727409761)


Not sure if you know how easy it is to remold abs but I have included a link with the boiling water explanation. Any clips that are spread etc. just reheat in boiling water and viola soft enough to push back to shape.


How to Melt or Reshape ABS Plastic for Repairs and for Making New Parts. (https://www.plastiblocks.com/post/2018/10/02/how-to-melt-or-reshape-abs-plastic-for-repairs-and-for-making-new-parts)



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[cripesamighty]

I went with one of these on my old D1, although it may be a bit big for what you need.


Regualar size
Mud Dash Pod For Defender (to 06) & Discovery 1 & 2 - Devon 4x4 - MUD-006-MUD (https://www.devon4x4.com/mud-pod.html)


Smaller size
Mud Dash Pod Mini For Defender (to 06) & Discovery 1 & 2 - Devon 4x4 - MUD-005-MUD (https://www.devon4x4.com/mud-pod-mini.html)

[AK83]

Can't help with the gauge holder for D2 .. I'm trying to figure out something for mine too.
But my reply is about the black painting of the pod/binnacle.

I painted my D1 binnacle years ago in satin black. Best mod for a Disco(1 or 2) for visibility.
Grey gives a washed out look directly ahead of the driver, I guess the fawn/brown coloured ones even worse!

Looks a bit strange being black with the rest of the dash in grey, but now there's a 'black hole' directly in the drivers line of sight(no reflection on the windscreen) where I can see the dash out to the sides, but not the reflection of the binnacle.

I reckon pain it black, satin is better than matt, as matt will scuff and dust up more readily.

ps. D1 and D2 binnacles are the same fit.

[RRT]

Did a repair of the binnacle to begin, simple one (found out I don't have flywire to strengthen it up) just put spot welds on the underside. The ryobi cordless solderer was about half way with the philips head looking tip.

Then I am mocking it up with the binnacle.

It is going to be touch and go as to fit, but after moving it around, for mine at the moment the left hand side of the binnacle looks right as the slight angle of the gauges is the right - you will see in the photos17296517296617296717296817296917297017297117 2972172973




I went with one of these on my old D1, although it may be a bit big for what you need.


Regualar size
Mud Dash Pod For Defender (to 06) & Discovery 1 & 2 - Devon 4x4 - MUD-006-MUD (https://www.devon4x4.com/mud-pod.html)


Smaller size
Mud Dash Pod Mini For Defender (to 06) & Discovery 1 & 2 - Devon 4x4 - MUD-005-MUD (https://www.devon4x4.com/mud-pod-mini.html)


Sorry you misunderstood, actually did purchase one already but it just doesn't work for me, think once I got in my hand and put it on the dash, the finish and style was just not right - sure it would work out of the box but sent me looking elsewhere.




Can't help with the gauge holder for D2 .. I'm trying to figure out something for mine too.
But my reply is about the black painting of the pod/binnacle.

I painted my D1 binnacle years ago in satin black. Best mod for a Disco(1 or 2) for visibility.
Grey gives a washed out look directly ahead of the driver, I guess the fawn/brown coloured ones even worse!

Looks a bit strange being black with the rest of the dash in grey, but now there's a 'black hole' directly in the drivers line of sight(no reflection on the windscreen) where I can see the dash out to the sides, but not the reflection of the binnacle.

I reckon pain it black, satin is better than matt, as matt will scuff and dust up more readily.

ps. D1 and D2 binnacles are the same fit.


Interested if you (or someone else) knows the dark grey black colour of the console as this makes a whole lot of sense to do both the same colour.

[RRT]

Forgot to note that the height of the gauges due to the angle of the back of the dash binnacle is not obtrusive at all, seems like the gauges will show with about 4/5's of the dial visible looking straight ahead.

[reefmagnet]

My binnacle cracked in half when I attempted to remove it last week. Probably because the screw mountings and spring clip mounting points were totally destroyed already and the PO had sikaflexed it down. I glued it back together with plastic primer and superglue for the two halves and hot glue for all the other bits that had broken off. I then fibreglassed with tabbing cloth and epoxy underneath to reinforce the binnacle because I don't trust it's eggshell brittleness. I also rebuilt the mounting points in fibreglass and epoxy. Where the screws attach behind the steering wheel doesn't need to be that flash because you really can't see it when installed.

Anyway, enough waffling. I mention this because I repaired my rear bumper the same way a while back and it's going great. Part of that repair was to finish the job using "trim paint" i.e. a spray can of paint specific for trims. It doesn't need priming and also dries with a slight ripple finish similar to the finish on a lot of plastic trim. I'll use it to paint the binnacle, which will be black (I have the brown interior), but you might be interested in it because it also comes in grey. Much better than using regular spray pack enamel, I think.

[RRT]

Spent a good hour and a half with a pot of boiling water moulding the gauge holder yesterday. Got it to where there is no major stress holding it to the curvature of the dashboard binnacle. However did find my initial cut of the binnacle was a little too forward leaving a small gap at the front under the holder and have to make more cuts at the back to insert the gauge.

The moulding is time consuming, placing the holder (not totally just the area to mould) in the water for around three minutes to allow it to soften enough and then subtle moulding, sometimes pressing along a rounded edge to get the right profile, other times just using finger pressure especially at the front edge to wrap around the hard curve at the front edge of the binnacle.

As to fitting have ordered to some double sided foam tape to seal the unit and to firmly attach the holder have got some small allen head bolts ordered. Thinking it will require about 8 to firmly attach but will probably do more for surety.

IF you look at the initial pictures it may be impossible to think it would 'fit' but believe me it is not that difficult to get to where I am at the moment, just time consuming.

Pictures are a little difficult to take as there is some 'lifting' but this will give you a fair representation as to the fit of the holder
173385
The slight lift of the pod as it is, is easily profiled to the dash by applying very little pressure

173382
Again there is a fair bit of easy flattening of this edge which will he held down by the bolts. The easiest way to profile this side was firm pressure against a hard rounded edge, Repeat and Repeat again!
173383

This was the hardest part of the moulding, the tight turn onto the front edge of the binnacle


173384

Indication as to how it will look, the lower part of the gauge may be hidden but the important area of the gauges in line of sight.

[1madgerman]

This is the one I'm currently making for my D2A.

[ChookD2]

This is what I did with my D2 for extra gauges.

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Had to trim the corners off the instrument cluster so that it fit back down properly. Biggest PITA was running wiring down the back of instruments, not much room there.

[RRT]

This is the one I'm currently making for my D2A.

Such a pity they don't have one off the shelf as good as this, it really is the ideal position and I would guess the wiring simplified.



This is what I did with my D2 for extra gauges.

173474173475

Had to trim the corners off the instrument cluster so that it fit back down properly. Biggest PITA was running wiring down the back of instruments, not much room there.

Really love the look of the gauges sitting bug eyed and as with my solution, they will not cut into your line of sight out the front. How have you found the SAAS gauges, I do prefer the look of them as to a reasonable close approximation to the standard gauges on the D2 (not so much if I had a D2A)




Have gotten my paint, screws and the foam tape so hopefully by midweek will have mine installed back on the dash board - got grey and black spray cans so will try it in grey first and if I don't like the look, black it will be.

[ChookD2]

Don't have it any longer but they appeared to be quite accurate and easy to read both day and night.

[4runnernomore]

I went with a redarc combo guage (boost, egt, digital water temp). My Madman was playing up and reading the water temp backwards. We were unable to work it out. Any way with a tune fittedI needed boost gauge as well. Interestingly the redarc guage was a lot more sensitive than the other.

with it installed on the usual spot on the a pillar trim, it doesn’t look out of place and is still nice and neat.

lit anyone has a An original Madman in the Brissie area I could trial that would be awsome to see if my unit is faulty or not.

cheers Chris

[reefmagnet]

Such a pity they don't have one off the shelf as good as this, it really is the ideal position and I would guess the wiring simplified.




Really love the look of the gauges sitting bug eyed and as with my solution, they will not cut into your line of sight out the front. How have you found the SAAS gauges, I do prefer the look of them as to a reasonable close approximation to the standard gauges on the D2 (not so much if I had a D2A)




Have gotten my paint, screws and the foam tape so hopefully by midweek will have mine installed back on the dash board - got grey and black spray cans so will try it in grey first and if I don't like the look, black it will be.

I can make comment on the SAAS gauges as I have them in my Patrol. They're ok, but be aware the backlighting is not dimmable (but can be disabled) which could be a problem if pointing right at in front. Also, if you install SAAS gauges in pods and without the backlight colour button on the face (it's otherwise located on the rear), this makes the backlight colour difficult to change from the default green.

[RRT]

I can make comment on the SAAS gauges as I have them in my Patrol. They're ok, but be aware the backlighting is not dimmable (but can be disabled) which could be a problem if pointing right at in front. Also, if you install SAAS gauges in pods and without the backlight colour button on the face (it's otherwise located on the rear), this makes the backlight colour difficult to change from the default green.

Was of the understanding the gauges were dimmable if they are wired to dash lighting but a trap for the unwary (ME!!) if they are not.

Was only intending to do the green to match the lighting of the dash as I am updating all the dashboard and HVAC with green LED globes - little bit concerned that the dash may not dim enough and as there is no controller for the dash brightness it is a concern, thanks,

[reefmagnet]

Was of the understanding the gauges were dimmable if they are wired to dash lighting but a trap for the unwary (ME!!) if they are not.

Was only intending to do the green to match the lighting of the dash as I am updating all the dashboard and HVAC with green LED globes - little bit concerned that the dash may not dim enough and as there is no controller for the dash brightness it is a concern, thanks,

They won't work with a dimmer, at least the unit's I have which are the *cringe* "Muscle" series.

For the Disco, I'm going to try this 60mm gauge I just received today. Comes with a pod that has a steel base plate, but it looks like it can be bent into a curve, so I think it will bend to fit the binnacle cover cover ok. Interestingly, the boost gauge is electronic and not mechanical which is another issue with the SAAS gauges. As in whenever the mighty Patrol turbo roared into life, the gauge made an annoying rattly/buzzing sound. This was easily fixed by fitting an inline reducer into the sensor tube though.
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[RRT]

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173542

You are right, the above specs state not dimmable, well may have to get some smoked vinyl if they are too bright at night and was going to wire them through the firewall tomorrow so may have to try and source some silicon pipe.

[AK83]

....

Was only intending to do the green to match the lighting of the dash as I am updating all the dashboard and HVAC with green LED globes - little bit concerned that the dash may not dim enough and as there is no controller for the dash brightness it is a concern, thanks,

I've changed all my dash globes(not warning globes tho) to leds in my D1, and they are too bright. But!! only on those dark backroads when it's pitch black(ie. no moon).
Around town, on most highways where there is some ambient light, not a problem. Just total darkness is where I found them to be too bright, causing a bit too much in 'ya face lighting and you're trying to see something not in your headlight beam. Even just looking down in the vehicle for something(for me really only my smokes!).

I got a dimmer switch from the UK(used) was cheap back then. plugged straight into the loom, works a treat!.
So on those dark backroads now, I dim down. Not that it's happened in the last 2 years due to lockdown .. but nice to remind myself that if we ever get back to some sense of freedom, the dimmer will still be there.

Note that this is for the D1, and the D2 used the same switch .. small rectangle outline on the LHS lower part of the binnacle. Just unsure if any Aussie delivered D2's have the loom already in place for it to be an easy fit.
Easy to cut out the rectangle outline, and use two tek screws to fasten it into the spots already there behind the binnacle .. just that wiring is the questionable part.

And there were concerns that the dimmer would not work with led globes, but it does .. no problem.

[mylesaway]

Was of the understanding the gauges were dimmable if they are wired to dash lighting but a trap for the unwary (ME!!) if they are not.

Was only intending to do the green to match the lighting of the dash as I am updating all the dashboard and HVAC with green LED globes - little bit concerned that the dash may not dim enough and as there is no controller for the dash brightness it is a concern, thanks,

D2 instrument lights can be made dimmable. They came as standard in US and Japan- legal requirement I believe.

I have converted mine. There is a thumb-wheel switch that goes in the little rectangular pressed area below the binnacle to the left of the steering wheel.

Goggle AMR2745 ( the thumb-wheel switch ) and you can buy S/H from the US fairly reasonably. Also Sierraferry did a write up on this site how to wire them in.
This will show up in your search results.

Takes about a hour to fit from memory. A bit of cut and splice to do.

Works a treat- dims all the dash lights.

[RRT]

I've changed all my dash globes(not warning globes tho) to leds in my D1, and they are too bright. But!! only on those dark backroads when it's pitch black(ie. no moon).
Around town, on most highways where there is some ambient light, not a problem. Just total darkness is where I found them to be too bright, causing a bit too much in 'ya face lighting and you're trying to see something not in your headlight beam. Even just looking down in the vehicle for something(for me really only my smokes!).

I got a dimmer switch from the UK(used) was cheap back then. plugged straight into the loom, works a treat!.
So on those dark backroads now, I dim down. Not that it's happened in the last 2 years due to lockdown .. but nice to remind myself that if we ever get back to some sense of freedom, the dimmer will still be there.

Note that this is for the D1, and the D2 used the same switch .. small rectangle outline on the LHS lower part of the binnacle. Just unsure if any Aussie delivered D2's have the loom already in place for it to be an easy fit.
Easy to cut out the rectangle outline, and use two tek screws to fasten it into the spots already there behind the binnacle .. just that wiring is the questionable part.

And there were concerns that the dimmer would not work with led globes, but it does .. no problem.


D2 instrument lights can be made dimmable. They came as standard in US and Japan- legal requirement I believe.

I have converted mine. There is a thumb-wheel switch that goes in the little rectangular pressed area below the binnacle to the left of the steering wheel.

Goggle AMR2745 ( the thumb-wheel switch ) and you can buy S/H from the US fairly reasonably. Also Sierraferry did a write up on this site how to wire them in.
This will show up in your search results.

Takes about a hour to fit from memory. A bit of cut and splice to do.

Works a treat- dims all the dash lights.


So I would look a Martian then, well have got the dash out at the moment, no need to hurry to get it back together if it is going to do this to me. No doubt I can also wire the light switch for the gauges into it as well and get the gauges dimmed as well which has become a bit of a concern.

[mylesaway]

I've changed all my dash globes(not warning globes tho) to leds in my D1, and they are too bright. But!! only on those dark backroads when it's pitch black(ie. no moon).
Around town, on most highways where there is some ambient light, not a problem. Just total darkness is where I found them to be too bright, causing a bit too much in 'ya face lighting and you're trying to see something not in your headlight beam. Even just looking down in the vehicle for something(for me really only my smokes!).

I got a dimmer switch from the UK(used) was cheap back then. plugged straight into the loom, works a treat!.
So on those dark backroads now, I dim down. Not that it's happened in the last 2 years due to lockdown .. but nice to remind myself that if we ever get back to some sense of freedom, the dimmer will still be there.

Note that this is for the D1, and the D2 used the same switch .. small rectangle outline on the LHS lower part of the binnacle. Just unsure if any Aussie delivered D2's have the loom already in place for it to be an easy fit.
Easy to cut out the rectangle outline, and use two tek screws to fasten it into the spots already there behind the binnacle .. just that wiring is the questionable part.

And there were concerns that the dimmer would not work with led globes, but it does .. no problem.

Ha Ha, beat me to it Arthur...

There was some talk that the D2 dimmer switch was PWM type and that these do dim LEDs. Yet on the RAVE circuit diagrams they call them a resistor.

My problem is going to be if I can't dim these SAAS guage as I want to fit 5 of them into a large MudPod.
I have read on a another site some time ago about putting a resistor in guage illumination wiring to to dim them.

More experimenting needed I guess...

[AK83]

Ha Ha, beat me to it Arthur...

There was some talk that the D2 dimmer switch was PWM type and that these do dim LEDs. Yet on the RAVE circuit diagrams they call them a resistor.

...

[biggrin]

D1 uses the same part(to be expected too).

I got mine cheap(about $20Au) from the UK from a wrecker .. so if it didn't work(with LEDs .. didnt' care .. worth the shot).

Yeah I remember that the looms were made different in the D2, whereas in the D1 they did less tinkering .. so it's plug and play.
And I have the most base spec model(I think) other than keyed remote locking(which I think were std anyhow) no ABS no airbags .. etc.
So for it to have the plug(hence the loom) already there, I'd say good chance that late D1 will be an easy job for any one that wants to do the dim switch job on theirs too.

I'd say I'll also do it to my D2(now) too .. but only when I find the switch at a decent price landed here again.

[mylesaway]

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173542

You are right, the above specs state not dimmable, well may have to get some smoked vinyl if they are too bright at night and was going to wire them through the firewall tomorrow so may have to try and source some silicon pipe.

Buy some extra silicon tube and replace the lines around the turbo modulator at the same time. These have been known to rub through.
Silicon should work well there.

If your looking for somewhere to get a feed for your boost guage, I tapped into line from the steel tube (turbo to intercooler) to the modulator.
SCA etc have have T pieces in stock that you can use.

If you are going to do the EGR blanking kit, I have seen one type that comes with fitting already in there tube. Very rare though.
I wanted to buy one but they where out of stock at the time...

[reefmagnet]

The SAAS Gauges use LED illumination and those won't dim with a resistive dimmer control AFAIK. RedArc gauges are dimmable, but even then you have to buy the optional dimming module to do it. I have my gauges mounted to a pillar pod in the Patrol, which pretty much places them in line of sight when driving, and they aren't too bad but I'm of the cut that rarely dims the instruments lights. Taking a leaf from my marine experience, and I have done the comparison, if you can get the gauges to display red as the backlight colour, this is the easiest on night vision.

[mylesaway]

The SAAS Gauges use LED illumination and those won't dim with a resistive dimmer control AFAIK. RedArc gauges are dimmable, but even then you have to buy the optional dimming module to do it. I have my gauges mounted to a pillar pod in the Patrol, which pretty much places them in line of sight when driving, and they aren't too bad but I'm of the cut that rarely dims the instruments lights. Taking a leaf from my marine experience, and I have done the comparison, if you can get the gauges to display red as the backlight colour, this is the easiest on night vision.

I think you are right...

Looking at the wiring diagram on RRT's boost gauge I am beginning to think that the illumination wire goes to a switch in the gauge,
so it's either on or off.(like the 85 contact on a normal relay)
However, it may be possible to dim it by connecting the 12v feed wire to the dash lights post LR dimmer and run the illum switch wire off the park lights.

But, and a big but is when you look at the wiring for EGT guage this becomes impossible to do.
That gauge has a constant 12v feed from the battery, a switched 12v feed from the key(to run the EGT circuit) and the illumination wire to switch on the gauge light.
So connecting the dash dimming feed to any of those 12v feeds is just going to create havoc I'm thinking!

Oh well, one Powerball and I'll be ordering a set of Autometer gauges from the US...

[Homestar]

I think you are right...

Looking at the wiring diagram on RRT's boost gauge I am beginning to think that the illumination wire goes to a switch in the gauge,
so it's either on or off.(like the 85 contact on a normal relay)
However, it may be possible to dim it by connecting the 12v feed wire to the dash lights post LR dimmer and run the illum switch wire off the park lights.

But, and a big but is when you look at the wiring for EGT guage this becomes impossible to do.
That gauge has a constant 12v feed from the battery, a switched 12v feed from the key(to run the EGT circuit) and the illumination wire to switch on the gauge light.
So connecting the dash dimming feed to any of those 12v feeds is just going to create havoc I'm thinking!

Oh well, one Powerball and I'll be ordering a set of Autometer gauges from the US...

A cheap PWM 12 volt dimmer from fleabay will sort this if you can mount it somewhere. I dug deep and used custom Speedhut gauges in my 101 - they are brilliant, dimmable but they are expensive. Will give them a huge shout out as they are great to deal with and produced exactly what I wanted. If that Powerball drops I'd highly recommend them. [thumbsupbig]

[RRT]

Thought it might be as simple as changing the LED, well I could if I was an electronics expert! Had a 20 psi gauge I am not going to use, these things have a pressed on ring at the front which needs to be destroyed to take apart, sort of...

173568

when looking at the circuit board, its a hopeless case of changing out the LED's for the dimming

173569


This being the case will get some smoked vinyl to physically dim it

[RRT]

Buy some extra silicon tube and replace the lines around the turbo modulator at the same time. These have been known to rub through.
Silicon should work well there.

If your looking for somewhere to get a feed for your boost guage, I tapped into line from the steel tube (turbo to intercooler) to the modulator.
SCA etc have have T pieces in stock that you can use.

If you are going to do the EGR blanking kit, I have seen one type that comes with fitting already in there tube. Very rare though.
I wanted to buy one but they where out of stock at the time...


Am looking at the EGR blanking tube to put the feed on, was looking a drilling a hole in the blanking tube and bolting in an air nipple to provide the feed (suitably sealed of course) or a push in coupling.


\PC Pneumatic air 10mm 8mm 12mm 6mm 4mm hose 1/4 "BSP 1/2" 1/8 "3/8" male thread air nipple brass quick coupling|Pneumatic Parts| - AliExpress (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002682755319.html?algo_pvid=b6963193-a53e-41ea-82b8-7e546fc57be8&algo_exp_id=b6963193-a53e-41ea-82b8-7e546fc57be8-38)

[mylesaway]

Thought it might be as simple as changing the LED, well I could if I was an electronics expert! Had a 20 psi gauge I am not going to use, these things have a pressed on ring at the front which needs to be destroyed to take apart, sort of...

173568

when looking at the circuit board, its a hopeless case of changing out the LED's for the dimming

173569


This being the case will get some smoked vinyl to physically dim it

I presume that is the LED in the centre there and this gauge has a lit up needle?
If you could get at that LED then you could paint it with some green glass paint. This would dull the LED but would make the needle very dark red, maybe even brownish at night.

Also, I think I remember reading about there being some sort of tool that you can use to remove and refit the glass face.
Maybe a phone call to a instrument maker/technician might provide an answer.

[mylesaway]

Am looking at the EGR blanking tube to put the feed on, was looking a drilling a hole in the blanking tube and bolting in an air nipple to provide the feed (suitably sealed of course) or a push in coupling.


\PC Pneumatic air 10mm 8mm 12mm 6mm 4mm hose 1/4 "BSP 1/2" 1/8 "3/8" male thread air nipple brass quick coupling|Pneumatic Parts| - AliExpress (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002682755319.html?algo_pvid=b6963193-a53e-41ea-82b8-7e546fc57be8&algo_exp_id=b6963193-a53e-41ea-82b8-7e546fc57be8-38)


I was thinking of using one these.

Transmission Temp Screw in Bung 1/8 NPTF | SAAS Automotive (https://www.shopsaas.com/saas-transmission-temp-screw-in-bung-18-nptf-sga1007)

I bought 2- one for the trans sump and one for the ERG delete tube.
I had trouble finding a right angle adapter with the right sized barb for the rubber tube to fit on so it went by the way side a bit.
If I used 4mm nylon tube (inside split tubing for protection) I could use those adapters you a looking at.

[V8Ian]

Window tint would be a good physical dimmer.

[RRT]

Window tint would be a good physical dimmer.

Thought came this morning that to attach light wire with ignition source with the tinting may be optimum

[RRT]

Just got off Ebay from the US at a cost of $50USD, so now to wait to fit.

[RRT]

Screwed down the gauges last night and the cowling is too weak, even moderate pressure developed further cracking, still got it fitted on and have it on the dashboard.

Going to go the fiberglass replacement now, but for proof of concept, happy. The microphone for the Bluetooth is attached at the front. Didn't bother painting it as going to upgrade as noted.

As fitted still

173786

Microphone fitted
173787

Showing how the lead is run, a large hole to fit the 3.5mm and then a small hole in the attachment for running the wire through

173788

[RRT]

Should add, due the shaping of the ABS to the dash cowl, there was a slight problem getting one of the gauges in. This was simply just filing the insert a little and it slid in fine.