Defender - broken diff -

[fatcat]

Hi all,
i have broken the diff in the front of my 02 defender. it's looking like my options are to put a second hand disco diff ($800 + $900 for case front) in or a rebulid, the rebuild is around $400 more any sugestions would be great on whether 2nd hand option is ok or dodgy? is there a way to strength the diff so this does not happen again?

Has anyone heard of converting it to a 2WD (horrible short term solution only but financially could be an option at the moment)

Has anyone heard of the case front just being welded instead of totally replaced? unless it is damaged on the inside I guess.

thanks. :wasntme:

[rangieman]

be carefull of second hand diffs check the centre pin of the diff for play if it has play stay clear of it

to strengthen the centre i think maxis drive make a new carrier

mcnamarra in melbourne make a stronger carrier

or just go diff lock



hope this helps

[abaddonxi]

If you're talking about poking a hole in the front diff cover then
Rick130 replaced his with a huge chunk of pipe end. (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=25447&page=4&highlight=diff+guard)

I've had the cover/housing thingy welded to seal up some holes I poked into it, it didn't last long enough, but did the job.

If you're in Sydney I've got a Defender front axle, end to end, in pretty good nick, PM me for the story, and a price.

Cheers
Simon

[tony]

Has anyone heard of the case front just being welded instead of totally replaced? unless it is damaged on the inside I guess.

thanks. :wasntme:[/quote]


I Guess you mean the thin front plate on the diff center , mate weld it up beat out the dent from the inside you have to make sure theres no oil left in the diff casing clean it up really well and weld it, where are you located.
i'm touting for bussiness so if your in sydney drop me a PM (see my add in the markets section under workshop for hire)

Tony

[DaveS3]

Weld it up mate. Dont replace it as its not needed.

$800 for a diff :eek: Buy a 2nd hand one and get it rebuilt.
Should easily be under $400 including parts and labour ect...

Dave.

[fatcat]

hi again im in brisbane and any 1 know a local here who can weld it .the fendy is near the magic mile

[Michael2]

A former employer of mine used to break 9" Ford diffs on F100s, they always lasted <12 months. He always replaced them with air lockers. Worth the upgrade if you can afford it.

[discowhite]

ive got the front pumpkin bit( the bit you clamp a diff guard to) if its any good to you. i cut it out of a rooted rangie diff.

have you been to see techno british or the 4x4 center at archerfield?? TB is in marooka somewhere and the 4x4 center(landrover's only) is at cnr stockwell and boundary rd archerfield.

failing that wack the dint out of it and put a big wad of devcon/liquid metal/kneed it, on it. and buy a diff guard.

cheers phil

[weeds]

you can make your fender into a two wheel drive by removing the front prop shaft along with engaging the centre diff lock only problem is your front diff centre will still turn therefore you need oil in her, you could remove an axle or two.

i have welding a quite a few up in the army with good success, the odd weld would get a hair line crack in it so i started to cut a bit of sheet metal and welded a patch over the repair as well.

if you can pull the diff apart i.e. diff centre out than any welding/engineering shop will be able to do

otherwise you could glen from brothers offroad

i bet you will fit a diff protector before your next outing, great investment for around $100

[muddymech]

liquid metal works fine in diff pan.
two wheel drive is no problem as long as you drive gentle not towing etc etc take off prop and pull out half shafts, just take end caps off and pull out, then you got no worries about diff turning. if you are going to replace the pan some uk suppliers do reinforced diff pans that can be welded on.

[fatcat]

well thanks for all the advice, getting a second hand disco part with a 3 month warranty.
think i will just have to drive the fender a bit easer on the up hills let the tc do its job .
any advice on how u would tackle those steep rutted hills, i hate having to reverse down them thanks

[DaveS3]

Its all practice.

The hardest part about it, is when you think you need to put the boot in to gain some wheel speed because you feel you wont make it, so you end up breaking traction, letting the tyres spin then they catch something and hence the boom. Try raising the right foot, letting the tyres find traction and hold the vehicle constant at that point. This will give you way more control as well as better steering. Its strange but with less pedal the car will be smoother and ascend more quickly! The seems to always work, especially in clay and slippery muddy hills.

Also try wedging your right foot agianst the side of the bulkhead for more control over bumps (this has never worked for me, but has helped others ect)

:confused:
Dave.