Tools to prep a recently purchased TD5

[buggame]

Hi all. First post. Hoping I can gain some wisdom from the brains trust.

Recently bought a 2004 TD5 Discovery on the other side of the country. Now planning the trip to pick it up.

The vehicle has been regularly serviced by the same facility from new till 2017. Has done 15,000km since 2017. The previous service place recalled the vehicle and they impressed me in their thoroughness. They advised it never saw any off-road until 2017. The owner till 2017 kept the vehicle well maintained.

No warning lights remain on. Suspension appears tight......as best as I can tell from 1500 km away!! ;) Brakes pads, etc etc still have adequate life. The only issue I picked up out of the ordinary was a squeaky idler bearing.

Service history is unknown since 2017.....so assuming it hasn't been touched. No scratches/scrapes/dents on the bodywork nor on the underside......so assuming it hasn't had a hard life and not expecting to fix any damage as a result of a tough life.

Will be flying across to pick it up.

What minimum tools do i need to pack to change ALL fluids?

What additional checks would you guys make before making a big trip back, related to a Discover 2?

TIA

[shayne86]

I'm no expert in land rover maintenance but i am highly versed in flying with a tool bag. A small bag with only the bare minimum can quickly blow out your baggage allowance. I'd almost suggest leave your tools at home and get a cheap combo tool bag/set from supercheap auto or similar. As long as it has hex heads, a 1/2 inch drive ratchet and some basic sockets upto 24 you should be able to drain all the fluids.

[PhilipA]

Make sure that the aircon drains have been extended to not drip on the XYZ switch and onto the double Cardan joint on the front driveshaft, and if the drain drips onto the front driveshaft, then I would suggest taking a new driveshaft with you.
Having read a few accounts of people buying D2s then the driveshaft dying on the way home , it is a show stopper without a diff lock. I see it is a 2004 so you have a difflock. (BTW it is a bitch to undo the driveshaft nuts without the special slim tool)

Mine even died luckily at my house, after 8 years with diverted drains. Once the damage is done it is done.

Check that the fan pulley bearing is tight and change a squeaking idler pulley. take a spare multi belt unless you are satisfied it is reasonably new.

Take some 7MM? fuel hose and some jubilee clips in case the fuel line wears through in front of the tank. ( I had this happen on the GRR)

Basically you can live with engine and Fuel Pressure Regulator oil leaks, and even a rear output shaft leak or diff pinion seal leaks will probably last until you get home.

Finally pay for premium Motoring club membership which includes long tows and accommodation and rental car. LOL.
Regards PhilipA

[Tombie]

Just out of curiosity- where’s the other side of the country if your in Adelaide [emoji41]

[reefmagnet]

Auto or manual?

I'd buy a cheap metric tool kit containing spanners, basic 3/8" socket set, hammer, pliers and screwdrivers when I got there. I'd take a 13mm sump plug spanner/socket; 3/8" breaker bar; 3/8" torque wrench; 3/8" extension(s); the transfer case needs a torx bit to remove it's plugs, iirc, so get hold of the right size and type before going for that; A wide mouth shifter for diff fills and miscellaneous; a 7 and 8 mm 1/4" drive or equivalent socket on a screwdriver handle for possible worm clamps on the cooling system; a 10mm and 11 mm flare nut spanner for brake and clutch nipples; and a oil filter removal tool that works in a confined space; and finally a decent philips and flat blade screw driver. I'd probably also throw in a small metric allen key set just in case.

That should just about allow a full roadside rebuild [smilebigeye]

[Tombie]

Personally. I’d take nothing.
Go buy when you get there.

I’d also just check the fluid levels in the engine,
Fix that squeaky idler,
Check the front shaft for play.

Send it….


Then do all the fluids at home.

If it cannot make it 3000km it’s got bigger problems.

[Pippin]

Make sure that the aircon drains have been extended to not drip on the XYZ switch and onto the double Cardan joint on the front driveshaft, and if the drain drips onto the front driveshaft, then I would suggest taking a new driveshaft with you.
Having read a few accounts of people buying D2s then the driveshaft dying on the way home , it is a show stopper without a diff lock. I see it is a 2004 so you have a difflock. (BTW it is a bitch to undo the driveshaft nuts without the special slim tool)

Mine even died luckily at my house, after 8 years with diverted drains. Once the damage is done it is done.

Check that the fan pulley bearing is tight and change a squeaking idler pulley. take a spare multi belt unless you are satisfied it is reasonably new.

Take some 7MM? fuel hose and some jubilee clips in case the fuel line wears through in front of the tank. ( I had this happen on the GRR)

Basically you can live with engine and Fuel Pressure Regulator oil leaks, and even a rear output shaft leak or diff pinion seal leaks will probably last until you get home.

Finally pay for premium Motoring club membership which includes long tows and accommodation and rental car. LOL.
Regards PhilipA I think the "Premium Motoring Club Membership" is all you need because if it won't do 1,500K you've been sold a dud. Just take it easy in stages and check all is ok under the bonnet every stop. Good luck.

[shayne86]

Might i add a cheap OBD2 scanner. Your o4 will have the plug just above your left knee on the driver's side.
Plenty of them on ebay that will work with any number of apps. No need to spend more than $30.

Very handy to keep an eye on coolant temps in real time and clear any fault codes should they come up.

Good luck [emoji106]

[shack]

Might i add a cheap OBD2 scanner. Your o4 will have the plug just above your left knee on the driver's side.
Plenty of them on ebay that will work with any number of apps. No need to spend more than $30.

Very handy to keep an eye on coolant temps in real time and clear any fault codes should they come up.

Good luck [emoji106]If it's a TD5 the OBD2 scanners won't do much, RPM and throttle I think is about all.

[shayne86]

If it's a TD5 the OBD2 scanners won't do much, RPM and throttle I think is about all.Oh ok. I've got an 04 d2a v8 and i can pull all sorts of data from the ecu. I figured the td5 would be able to do the same.

[Tombie]

Oh ok. I've got an 04 d2a v8 and i can pull all sorts of data from the ecu. I figured the td5 would be able to do the same.

No, the TD5 predates the OBD2 standard

[towe0609]

I'm lazy and have a high risk tolerance for these sorts of things ... I'd probably change the engine oil, ensure its covered by roadside assistance, and drive it home.

If you really want to develop a list of tools required to change all fluids, you could read through

www.discovery2.co.uk/maintenance articles (http://www.discovery2.co.uk/maintenance.html)

which lists everything required.

[vbrab]

I see mention of a squeaky idler bearing, so get a viscous hub spanner (you will need one anyway if you are going to ever work on it yourself).
Changing the actual bearing /pulley over is easy, but having a hub spanner makes it so easy to sort, and you can check the state of any other idler/pulley bearing while you are there.
If you do have to go into the front pulley area, be careful NOT to bump or apply any pressure to the 1/4" outlet/hose on right hand top of radiator tank (return pipe for expansion tank) as these can be very brittle and they break easily, which might leave you stranded.
I few things I would also check before heading off.
Check the state of the engine sump plug, as they can be beasts to undo if they have been damaged and are a bit worn on the points (even if you do have a 6 point socket).
Perhaps get a new engine sump plug while you can, if the current plug shows any damage (and a new seal washer).
Check if diff plugs have been changed to brass (from plastic), as the plastic plugs can also be hard to remove if damaged.
Get a couple of brass diff plugs to swap the plastic out if they are still plastic.
Check state of rubber union on rear tail shaft in front of rear diff (cracks etc).
Long shot, but you could also check that the diecast aluminium "U" shaped mounts that hold the bottom inspection plate on the transmission are all intact.
These can break, and some operators just bodgie them back on, meaning that they can then let go on any rough road.



Hi all. First post. Hoping I can gain some wisdom from the brains trust.

Recently bought a 2004 TD5 Discovery on the other side of the country. Now planning the trip to pick it up.

The vehicle has been regularly serviced by the same facility from new till 2017. Has done 15,000km since 2017. The previous service place recalled the vehicle and they impressed me in their thoroughness. They advised it never saw any off-road until 2017. The owner till 2017 kept the vehicle well maintained.

No warning lights remain on. Suspension appears tight......as best as I can tell from 1500 km away!! ;) Brakes pads, etc etc still have adequate life. The only issue I picked up out of the ordinary was a squeaky idler bearing.

Service history is unknown since 2017.....so assuming it hasn't been touched. No scratches/scrapes/dents on the bodywork nor on the underside......so assuming it hasn't had a hard life and not expecting to fix any damage as a result of a tough life.

Will be flying across to pick it up.

What minimum tools do i need to pack to change ALL fluids?

What additional checks would you guys make before making a big trip back, related to a Discover 2?

TIA

[laney]

Your only doing 1500km if the car has problems on that short trip then I would be looking for my money back as theses are very reliable cars 1500kms should be a walk in the park for it enjoy the car.

[mylesaway]

I would be taking either my Nanocom or Hawkeye Total with me...

Then I could check..

1) That the VIN matches the Rego papers.

2) That the VIN matches the Compliance plate.

3) Check for any fault codes. This should give you a prewarning of any future dramas.

4) Delete the fault codes and then recheck at your lunch break on the first day of travel.

5) Then use it to monitor the engine temp etc.

Take a pair of overalls/ or buy a $10 tarp and get underneath with a headtorch and have a good look around.
If there are any oil leaks then check levels. Also look for coolant leaks.

Check the service book to see if the engine oil has been changed in the last 4 yrs/15,000K's. If not then probably worth getting it changed.
Don't worry about the filters, you can do them later.

Take the tensioner and a new belt with you. Much easier than having stuff sent to you.
You maybe able to borrow a 36mm fan spanner from the place that was servicing it previously.

Check your tyre pressures(and spare) and make sure you have the gear to change a flat.

I have one of these that lives in my cars boot. They are available in all sorts of price/equipment level ranges.

Stanley 176 Piece Tool Kit With Carry Case - Bunnings Australia (https://www.bunnings.com.au/stanley-176-piece-tool-kit-with-carry-case_p6110612)

Use it more for doing odd jobs on the D2 in the driveway than I have on car breakdowns.

Unless you bought it from a place in Mt Isa and you're taking home via the Birdsville track your probably not going to be far from help.
I think having some sort of 'Roadside Assist Package' is probably worth it until you get to know the beast..

Good luck..

[buggame]

OK, well the owner has just rung and advised he wont be selling the Discovery after-all....the misses just wont have it, or so he says!! How does that happen??

Fair to say I am p!ssed... The vehicle was in Tassie, so as you do, had a whole Tassie trip planned around picking up the car......

But thanks for all your suggestions and advice. Impressed with the helpful approach of MOST Land Rover owners...[bigsmile1]

So the search continues.

I think the TD5 is my pick (others can tell me if I am wrong).....just the right balance of creature comforts yet still basic enuf to be outback reliable plus able to fix when things go wrong. The vehicle will essentially become an outback touring vehicle. If anyone knows of a reliable manual TD5....doesnt have to look pretty, for a reasonable price then let me know.

There is an option of a very cheap Discovery 4 SDV6 (good service history, lowish KM, etc etc) ....but the amount of electronics scares me!! The thought of some electrical/computer gremlin playing havoc when in the middle of no-where isnt something I feel comfortable with.

Thx again...

[buggame]

I would be taking either my Nanocom or Hawkeye Total with me...


Unless you bought it from a place in Mt Isa and you're taking home via the Birdsville track your probably not going to be far from help.
I think having some sort of 'Roadside Assist Package' is probably worth it until you get to know the beast..

Good luck..

Ha, recently got home from a trip to the Cape and back (in a dsl Outback). Took the obligatory tool box, etc. But what I didnt reckon on was some tradie evenly distributing what must has been a box of 5000x 30mm tek screws between Winton and Boulia (Qld). Took 6 plugs and two spares for the trip. Used 2x plugs on the way there and 6-7x on that stretch of rd plus another 2x on the Birdsville track. If it hadnt been for another 4wd who was experiencing the same issues on that road and who gave me a strip of 5x then I would been in trouble. Interestingly he was carrying about 30x plugs!!

Its the small things you dont expect that catch me out!

[Tombie]

OK, well the owner has just rung and advised he wont be selling the Discovery after-all....the misses just wont have it, or so he says!! How does that happen??

Fair to say I am p!ssed... The vehicle was in Tassie, so as you do, had a whole Tassie trip planned around picking up the car......

But thanks for all your suggestions and advice. Impressed with the helpful approach of MOST Land Rover owners...[bigsmile1]

So the search continues.

I think the TD5 is my pick (others can tell me if I am wrong).....just the right balance of creature comforts yet still basic enuf to be outback reliable plus able to fix when things go wrong. The vehicle will essentially become an outback touring vehicle. If anyone knows of a reliable manual TD5....doesnt have to look pretty, for a reasonable price then let me know.

There is an option of a very cheap Discovery 4 SDV6 (good service history, lowish KM, etc etc) ....but the amount of electronics scares me!! The thought of some electrical/computer gremlin playing havoc when in the middle of no-where isnt something I feel comfortable with.

Thx again...

Don’t fear the tech.

[jh972]

Don’t fear the tech.

Agree with Tombie. I did 350000k in a D3 with a lot of long remote off road trips with no issues with the electronics. A stick tore a wheel speed sensor wire off once - that has been about the only problem. The scary stuff with electronics is that if it does go wrong, we feel that we can't fix it.

[PhilipA]

It's not the electronics that should be feared in an old high mileage D3 purchase.
It's the cost of a rebuild on the auto, the cost of an engine crankshaft failure, cost of rebuilding the handbrake etc etc.
Also there are several other areas, such as the rear driveshaft bearings, the transfer case.
Add these to the electronics problems and to me they are a no proposition.
The above are contingent liabilities , and may never happen, but if they do happen the cost is ruinous , particularly if the person is on a fixed or lowish income.
I recall a RRS being advertised on local Facebook Marketplace for AFAIR $5K as it had suddenly seized while driving near Newcastle.
I still lust after a RRS but will probably never buy one due to the above. There is a very nice one on FB at the moment for low 20s but Black with black and 20 inch wheels.

Regards PhilipA

[Tombie]

A mate here purchased a RRS with a stuffed transmission for $3k from Tassie.

Put $10k into the vehicle - new transmission and a few other bits and pieces. It’s since done another 100k without issue.

A tail shaft bearing etc shouldn’t be a worry.
And a properly maintained EPB doesn’t fail.
Rebuild kits are all of $50 if you do have a problem though.

And Phillip… how much have you sunk into that D2?

Plenty have had transmission rebuilds, front shafts, donuts, diffs, axles, head work, turbos, manifolds, FPRs, suspension components, ECUs, Alarms, fuse box leaks/damage.
Cranks aren’t a TD5 issue, heads and fuel galleries are!

The more they’re used for more than just mall crawling the more work they need.

Staying on top of things is more important than repairs. Simple maintenance, and the prompt resolution of issues saves a lot of money.

[Reddirt204]

Reading this thread, I'm not afraid of much mechanically (just done the head and bits on my sons D2a) but if I was travelling that far and then planning a bit of holiday around Tassie and then peddling it back to SA I would just find a local specialist garage and get a very thorough inspection/service done, yep might cost a bit up front but at least you should have a very good idea of where it is at. I honestly not a fan of fixing things while on holiday. Probably a good idea as others have said to pick up a few basic tools (a 200mm slim, wide jaw shifter is a god send, especially for the fan hub) and run from there.
Bugger for the OP that the seller has pulled out, sort of sounds like he's found a buyer that's offering more $$$ but just keep an eye out, there are plenty around, just have to know where to look

cheers

Reddirt204

[PhilipA]

And Phillip… how much have you sunk into that D2?

Plenty have had transmission rebuilds, front shafts, donuts, diffs, axles, head work, turbos, manifolds, FPRs, suspension components, ECUs, Alarms, fuse box leaks/damage.
Cranks aren’t a TD5 issue, heads and fuel galleries are!

I have owned it for 8 years now and have probably spent more on mods than on repairs.

I have fitted a new/second hand driveshaft which cost $100, biggest expense was transmission cooler lines at $400, what else? 2 front hubs/wheel bearings, a new alternator 8 years ago, injection harness, couple of sump gaskets and

rocker cover gaskets, a new VDO MAF which I just refitted after a year or so with an experimental Chinese one. New radiator even though when I pulled the old one apart it was OK. Shocks once maybe due again. FPR changed,

Oh biggest expense was fuel line wearing through which cost me $600 with airfreight parts and labour as I used NRMA premium and you have to use a mechanic. They paid accommodation in Kununurra and a hire car!

No axles, head gaskets, transmissions, donuts, turbos, fuse boxes, alarms , ECUs, or any other major thing.

So really very little ( maybe 2-3K) over 8 years and 90,000Km, including GRR, and towing a 1tonne camper trailer.
By far the most reliable Land Rover I have ever had.

I guess I was lucky to buy a 134KM car that had only been used in the burbs.
Regards PhilipA
.

[Tombie]

I’ve replaced 2 suspension bushes, an alternator and one hose (and the hose was due to bad service by dealer) [emoji41]. 10 years [emoji106]

[feraldisco]

I’ve replaced 2 suspension bushes, an alternator and one hose (and the hose was due to bad service by dealer) [emoji41]. 10 years [emoji106]

That sounds like a lucky run Tombie, as well as no doubt some good and pre-emptive maintenance.

Personally I was happy to get rid of my L322 3.6TDV8...just so many things that can go wrong, constant drain on battery from all the electronics and a nightmare to work on in the engine bay - the problem with V motors in restrictive engine bays...not to mention more cooling issues with V motors vs in-line, exacerbated by the extensive use of plastic in modern engine bays.

My D2 Td5 now seems positively simple to work on...plenty of space around an in-line motor... I'm also happy to have coil springs combined with ACE...It's a comfortable ride and still handles well, without all the potential hassles of EAS.

[feraldisco]

The other issue with the 2.5t plus D3/4/RR behemoths is the impact of that weight on tyres, brakes, suspension components and handling. My 2.7t L322 was a brake dust generator and understeered when pushed, hard on tyres, LCA bushes etc. I never thought I'd call a D2 nimble, but that's what it felt like after the L322...much easier to park and punt around a twisty road and to place on tight tracks...

[PhilipA]

This is a very nice one but expensive.
Mods relevant to this thread as D2 in Perth dropped out.
Marketplace - 2004 Land Rover Discovery | Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2214707962005478/'ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks&tracking=%7B%22qid%22%3A%22-7634525781459232689%22%2C%22mf_story_key%22%3A%223 91841699747821863%22%2C%22commerce_rank_obj%22%3A% 22%7B%5C%22target_id%5C%22%3A391841699747821863%2C %5C%22target_type%5C%22%3A6%2C%5C%22primary_positi on%5C%22%3A0%2C%5C%22ranking_signature%5C%22%3A301 1892807557185536%2C%5C%22commerce_channel%5C%22%3A 501%2C%5C%22value%5C%22%3A0%2C%5C%22upsell_type%5C %22%3A21%2C%5C%22grouping_info%5C%22%3Anull%7D%22% 7D)

Regards PhilipA
I have PMd OP so can shift to marketplace alerts if you like , but is relevant here.

[mylesaway]

This is a very nice one but expensive.
Mods relevant to this thread as D2 in Perth dropped out.
Marketplace - 2004 Land Rover Discovery | Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2214707962005478/'ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks&tracking=%7B%22qid%22%3A%22-7634525781459232689%22%2C%22mf_story_key%22%3A%223 91841699747821863%22%2C%22commerce_rank_obj%22%3A% 22%7B%5C%22target_id%5C%22%3A391841699747821863%2C %5C%22target_type%5C%22%3A6%2C%5C%22primary_positi on%5C%22%3A0%2C%5C%22ranking_signature%5C%22%3A301 1892807557185536%2C%5C%22commerce_channel%5C%22%3A 501%2C%5C%22value%5C%22%3A0%2C%5C%22upsell_type%5C %22%3A21%2C%5C%22grouping_info%5C%22%3Anull%7D%22% 7D)

Regards PhilipA
I have PMd OP so can shift to marketplace alerts if you like , but is relevant here.

Hmmm, definitely be taking a Nanocom with me to check this one out.

What's with the broken instrument binnacle? Speedo/BCU change out?

And what's with the broken oil warning light?

I'd be buying a vehicle check on this one....