2005 V8 HSE Multiple Faults and getting to know the gap tool

[timdo1]

Hello All.

I have recently bought a 2005 v8 HSE with several problems. I mentioned a couple on the Disco 3 assembly thread (below) but I didnt want to Hijack so I thought I would start my own.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/284320-disco-3-assembly.html

So this beast has major water issues inside the car thanks to the A pillar trims and the sun roof drains. This seems to have caused every fault known to man, a dashboard lit up like Christmas, a transfer case stuck in low range, no suspension or special programs. Ive fixed that for the most part. I still have a small amount of water coming in the passenger side trim which I will solve with a different seal around the clip, its not enough to wet the carpet and I have temporarily taped so nothing comes in. The carpet is all dried out, I have pulled apart electrical connectors and earth posts on both driver and passenger sides, cleaned off some rust on a earth post, cleaned out all the electrical connectors. Opened and check for corrosion the Central Junction box. I have also had the transfer case ecu out and removed corrosion in the plug and checked inside the ecu and couldnt see any water issues in there. I also checked the ecu behind the transfer case one but found no water issues in the plug. I was net going to look at the wiring on the front passenger wheel arch, that will be over the next couple of days.

Then the gap tool arrived yesterday so I linked that today, cleared faults and cleared them again. Most of the faults were gone except something odd around the steering angle sensor, the transfer case and a few others.

So I found the steering angle calibration portion on the tool and did that procedure, a whole heap of faults disappear.

Here is the list of faults that are left.

Body Control

B1B02-28 (2F) Low frequency coil - General signal failure - signal bias level is out of range/zero adjustment failure
( on 07-10-2021 14:28:48 at 303900 km )

B1C57-14 (2F) Passive start ignition relay coil circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground or open
( on 07-10-2021 14:28:48 at 303900 km )

Engine Petrol

P0695-00 (2A) Fan 3 control - circuit low

Transfer Case

P0902-00 (2F) Clutch actuator - circuit low
( on 07-10-2021 14:28:53 at 303902 km )

P0915-00 (2F) Gearshift position - circuit range/performance
( on 07-10-2021 14:28:53 at 303902 km )

Ventilation

B1B78-84 (2F) System pressure - Bus signal/message failure - signal is below allowable range
( on 07-10-2021 14:28:52 at 303902 km )

So my next questions resolve around the Transfer Case. I figure if i can get that going I will be able to drive it normally and special programs will work???? I will then deal with the other issues. I have noticed that there are calibration procedures with the gap tool for the transfer case. Is this a danger area if I just do it? I'm running a little blind at the minute so if someone could fill me in with what these do and if that relates to my errors that would be great.

My second question for today relates to the car electrical system in general. When i turn the engine off and remove the key, 5 seconds later the hazard indicators come on, the heater fan, the navigation screen and the dashboard all turn on. I can also operate the windows. Does anyone have a clue where to start chasing down this fault? I thought it would go when I solved the water issues, but it hasn't.

Thanks in advance.

Tim

[josh.huber]

Hello All.

I have recently bought a 2005 v8 HSE with several problems. I mentioned a couple on the Disco 3 assembly thread (below) but I didnt want to Hijack so I thought I would start my own.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/284320-disco-3-assembly.html

So this beast has major water issues inside the car thanks to the A pillar trims and the sun roof drains. This seems to have caused every fault known to man, a dashboard lit up like Christmas, a transfer case stuck in low range, no suspension or special programs. Ive fixed that for the most part. I still have a small amount of water coming in the passenger side trim which I will solve with a different seal around the clip, its not enough to wet the carpet and I have temporarily taped so nothing comes in. The carpet is all dried out, I have pulled apart electrical connectors and earth posts on both driver and passenger sides, cleaned off some rust on a earth post, cleaned out all the electrical connectors. Opened and check for corrosion the Central Junction box. I have also had the transfer case ecu out and removed corrosion in the plug and checked inside the ecu and couldnt see any water issues in there. I also checked the ecu behind the transfer case one but found no water issues in the plug. I was net going to look at the wiring on the front passenger wheel arch, that will be over the next couple of days.

Then the gap tool arrived yesterday so I linked that today, cleared faults and cleared them again. Most of the faults were gone except something odd around the steering angle sensor, the transfer case and a few others.

So I found the steering angle calibration portion on the tool and did that procedure, a whole heap of faults disappear.

Here is the list of faults that are left.

Body Control

B1B02-28 (2F) Low frequency coil - General signal failure - signal bias level is out of range/zero adjustment failure
( on 07-10-2021 14:28:48 at 303900 km )

B1C57-14 (2F) Passive start ignition relay coil circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground or open
( on 07-10-2021 14:28:48 at 303900 km )

Engine Petrol

P0695-00 (2A) Fan 3 control - circuit low

Transfer Case

P0902-00 (2F) Clutch actuator - circuit low
( on 07-10-2021 14:28:53 at 303902 km )

P0915-00 (2F) Gearshift position - circuit range/performance
( on 07-10-2021 14:28:53 at 303902 km )

Ventilation

B1B78-84 (2F) System pressure - Bus signal/message failure - signal is below allowable range
( on 07-10-2021 14:28:52 at 303902 km )

So my next questions resolve around the Transfer Case. I figure if i can get that going I will be able to drive it normally and special programs will work???? I will then deal with the other issues. I have noticed that there are calibration procedures with the gap tool for the transfer case. Is this a danger area if I just do it? I'm running a little blind at the minute so if someone could fill me in with what these do and if that relates to my errors that would be great.

My second question for today relates to the car electrical system in general. When i turn the engine off and remove the key, 5 seconds later the hazard indicators come on, the heater fan, the navigation screen and the dashboard all turn on. I can also operate the windows. Does anyone have a clue where to start chasing down this fault? I thought it would go when I solved the water issues, but it hasn't.

Thanks in advance.

Tim

Hey mate,

I threw a transfer case in my d4 and had to calibrate it, i can't remember what the code was first, but it didn't cause me any issues

[josh.huber]

Hello All.

I have recently bought a 2005 v8 HSE with several problems. I mentioned a couple on the Disco 3 assembly thread (below) but I didnt want to Hijack so I thought I would start my own.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/284320-disco-3-assembly.html

So this beast has major water issues inside the car thanks to the A pillar trims and the sun roof drains. This seems to have caused every fault known to man, a dashboard lit up like Christmas, a transfer case stuck in low range, no suspension or special programs. Ive fixed that for the most part. I still have a small amount of water coming in the passenger side trim which I will solve with a different seal around the clip, its not enough to wet the carpet and I have temporarily taped so nothing comes in. The carpet is all dried out, I have pulled apart electrical connectors and earth posts on both driver and passenger sides, cleaned off some rust on a earth post, cleaned out all the electrical connectors. Opened and check for corrosion the Central Junction box. I have also had the transfer case ecu out and removed corrosion in the plug and checked inside the ecu and couldnt see any water issues in there. I also checked the ecu behind the transfer case one but found no water issues in the plug. I was net going to look at the wiring on the front passenger wheel arch, that will be over the next couple of days.

Then the gap tool arrived yesterday so I linked that today, cleared faults and cleared them again. Most of the faults were gone except something odd around the steering angle sensor, the transfer case and a few others.

So I found the steering angle calibration portion on the tool and did that procedure, a whole heap of faults disappear.

Here is the list of faults that are left.

Body Control

B1B02-28 (2F) Low frequency coil - General signal failure - signal bias level is out of range/zero adjustment failure
( on 07-10-2021 14:28:48 at 303900 km )

B1C57-14 (2F) Passive start ignition relay coil circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground or open
( on 07-10-2021 14:28:48 at 303900 km )

Engine Petrol

P0695-00 (2A) Fan 3 control - circuit low

Transfer Case

P0902-00 (2F) Clutch actuator - circuit low
( on 07-10-2021 14:28:53 at 303902 km )

P0915-00 (2F) Gearshift position - circuit range/performance
( on 07-10-2021 14:28:53 at 303902 km )

Ventilation

B1B78-84 (2F) System pressure - Bus signal/message failure - signal is below allowable range
( on 07-10-2021 14:28:52 at 303902 km )

So my next questions resolve around the Transfer Case. I figure if i can get that going I will be able to drive it normally and special programs will work???? I will then deal with the other issues. I have noticed that there are calibration procedures with the gap tool for the transfer case. Is this a danger area if I just do it? I'm running a little blind at the minute so if someone could fill me in with what these do and if that relates to my errors that would be great.

My second question for today relates to the car electrical system in general. When i turn the engine off and remove the key, 5 seconds later the hazard indicators come on, the heater fan, the navigation screen and the dashboard all turn on. I can also operate the windows. Does anyone have a clue where to start chasing down this fault? I thought it would go when I solved the water issues, but it hasn't.

Thanks in advance.

Tim

Trouble shoot that relay error and hopefully the power stays off.

How does the key feel in the barrel, still tight out lose and floppy.

I'll dig my laptop out later and have a gander at the errors

[josh.huber]

Those body control errors are reported on other forums as a ghost code, the ventilation code is likely low gas, or a dead sensor, good luck with the transfer case

[350RRC]

Those body control errors are reported on other forums as a ghost code, the ventilation code is likely low gas, or a dead sensor, good luck with the transfer case

Can the scan tools run a seance to sort it out?

DL

[Airmech953]

Hi, My problems (Disco 3 assembly) were caused by a canbus wiring fault. Even if continuity checks are ok but there is damaged insulation on a wire in the canbus system, this can generate fault codes.
Another defect that I found related to the multi-pin connectors at the rear LH wheel arch and next to the battery. If the pull-in studs on the male side of the connector are missing, the plug may not seat squarely thus creating a poor connection.

[josh.huber]

Can the scan tools run a seance to sort it out?

DL

I was really curious about the fault because of the description, a few sites said it's always active in their cars.

[timdo1]

Thanks for all the suggestions so far.

Today I pulled the centre console. I noticed that the little light on the shift is always on D no matter what position the lever is in. Also dont have the the individual gear selection ( dont know the land rover term for it). After a bit of reading I discover that these modules go faulty. Trying to find a second hand one now. Waiting on some replies. I assume that will get rid of the gearshift position fault problem.


Next I will focus on the Clutch actuator cct low. I suspect they are talking about the actuator for high low on the transfer case. I've read that these go funny and the wiring can do same. I'll do some more research tonight and try to get underneath it tomorrow to look further.

Just to make things interesting I'm leaking water from underneath. At first I thought split hose but I looked today and its coming behind the harmonic balancer. I suspect water pump up higher and dripping down. Hope so anyway, that looks simple. These things are a bit tiresome to bleed arent they.

Lastly I cant get the air suspension to work at all. I will have a look at the rear connectors and canbus as per Airmech953 suggestion. Thanks by the way. I can use the gap tool to reset the heights, then as soon as I try to adjust it freaks out and drops to the bump stops. It did work yesterday using gap to raise it, but its stopped again. I'm thinking a dodgy connector somewhere so lets see.

josh.huber You think there is a relay issue which is why the car turns back on. That one I havent started trying to sort out. Its strange and I dont know where to start. I will note that the main fuse box under bonnet had water dropping directly on it, thanks to a loose seal. I cant remove relays etc close to the windscreen because they feel stuck. I havent had the guts yet to really hack into that because the damn thing is hard wired and a nightmare to replace. One area where I wish they stayed with the D2 setup. I'll start to play again with that this weekend. I'm thinking I might try some anti rust stuff to loosen anything thats rusted or corroded in there and then lots of contact cleaner. Not sure what else to do at the minute. Dont want to damage that part of the car due to replacing difficulties.

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. Keep em coming, I'm new to these beasts and the learning curve is steep. So far they are simpler to work on the the D2 TD5 or V8.

[loanrangie]

The D illuminated will be corrosion on the shifter PCB caused by water or a spilt drink, pull the plug off the PCB and check for corrosion.
I had to replace my shifter and the short loom that connects to it, i suspect you may have other moisture related issues so check the passenger side sill channel where the wiring runs for water.

[timdo1]

The D illuminated will be corrosion on the shifter PCB caused by water or a spilt drink, pull the plug off the PCB and check for corrosion.
I had to replace my shifter and the short loom that connects to it, i suspect you may have other moisture related issues so check the passenger side sill channel where the wiring runs for water.

I couldnt get to the sill the other day. I might pull the seat this weekend and see if I can get to it.

Thanks for the thought

[timdo1]

No corrosion around any of the shifter plugs or wires. No corrosion around the engine bay fuse box either. I'm convinced that the shifter circuit board or however it gets its info is faulty. I looked at the circuit board but I couldnt see any direct contacts between the shifter and the circuit board. Maybe itrs a magnet that tells the system what position its in. Either way I will grab a second hand one and see what happens.

With the car electrics turning back on. All the relays have been pulled out and cleaned from the engine bay fuse board, nothing changed. But when I sit in the car and keep my foot on the brake peddle, it doesnt happen. I can sit there forever and the car shuts down normally, until I take my foot off the brake peddle. Then it all comes back on. Now thats a strange issue. I replaced the brake switch when I got the car. I havent done the globes yet because the rear tail gate doesnt open and thats not high on my priorities. Very strange issue this is, anyone have any ideas?

Tomorrow I will try and check the sills for water and look at the electrics running to the transfer case high low motor/ actuator. Starting to think I have a fried ECU somewhere.

[loanrangie]

The shifter has no mechanical contact with the PCB so it must be a hall effect or similar, I think the board gets fried them produces the fault.
I couldn't find any burnt or damaged traces on mine but replacement did fix it.

[timdo1]

I couldnt see a way of removing the board so I assume its a replace the whole thing. I found a couple around. Can you get the cable out without having to release on the transmission end? I couldnt see a way today. I'm hoping that you can but it looked like you need to pull the whole cable out. I'll take a closer look at Land Rovers drawings.

[loanrangie]

I couldnt see a way of removing the board so I assume its a replace the whole thing. I found a couple around. Can you get the cable out without having to release on the transmission end? I couldnt see a way today. I'm hoping that you can but it looked like you need to pull the whole cable out. I'll take a closer look at Land Rovers drawings.It slides out the front once you undo the 2 or 3 screws from the side, the cable has a retaining clip then it will lever out.
I couldn't find any reference to the board itself so the whole shifter will need to be replaced.

[timdo1]

Can anyone explain to me how I find what relay r211, 260 & 267 is in relation to the relay numbers on the car. Its on page 88 of the land rover electrical diagrams. It looks like it supplies power to the central Junction box and there is links to washers and brakes. I'm wondering if any of these are kaput and stuck on but its hard to know which to replace because the numbers on the diagram don't match the numbers on the car.

Is there a document anywhere that marries the fuse box relays with the numbers on the car?

[BradC]

If you think it's a stuck relay, why not take the "scatter gun" approach and shut the car down, then one by one pull relays until things switch off?

I have a different diagram to you obviously as I have no relays on page 88.

R211 - Ignition Relay is switched from an ignition line from the CJB. It powers heated seats, the lights and the climate control module. - Don't know which relay

R260 - Brake boost pump. My TDV6 doesn't have one, so that slot is open. - R11

R267 - Heated mirrors and washer jets. - R4

174282

[BradC]

Here's something I put together a while ago. E is engine box and J is CJB. Some I haven't had a chance to bell out and confirm some of them "??". Most of the CJB relays are internal. One day I'll get a defunct CJB to dismantle and document.


E R102 - Starter - R18
E R103 - Fuel Pump - R8
E R114 - Glow Plug A - R15
E R114 - Glow Plug B - R17
E R116 - ECM - R6
E R130 - Front fog lamp - R5
E R139 - Power Wash - R12??
E R176 - Blower relay - R16
E R208 - Heated front screen - R9
E R211 - Ignition - R13?
E R214 - Blower rear - R10
E R225 - Suspension - R7
E R231 - Wiper On / Off - SPDT - R3?
E R232 - Wiper fast / slow - SPDT - R2?
E R260 - Brake boost pump - R11?
E R267 - Heated washer jets / mirrors - R4

J R125 - Side lamp
J R132 - Lighter - R3
J R133 - Horn
J R138 - Heated rear screen
J R143 - Window lift
J R203 - Accessory Socket - R1
J R217 - Reverse
J R222 - HDC - Extrernal resistor
J R249 - Infotainment - R5
J R250 - Battery saver
J R257 - Fuel flap Lock - SPDT
J R258 - Fuel flap unlock - SPDT
J R259 - Wash pump - Complex Page 130
J R261 - CDL Lock - SPDT
J R262 - Driver Lock - SPDT
J R263 - Superlock - SPDT
J R265 - CDL Return 1 - SPDT
J R265 - CDL Return 2 - SPDT
J R274 - Auto lights

R229 - Seat

[timdo1]

Here's something I put together a while ago. E is engine box and J is CJB. Some I haven't had a chance to bell out and confirm some of them "??". Most of the CJB relays are internal. One day I'll get a defunct CJB to dismantle and document.


E R102 - Starter - R18
E R103 - Fuel Pump - R8
E R114 - Glow Plug A - R15
E R114 - Glow Plug B - R17
E R116 - ECM - R6
E R130 - Front fog lamp - R5
E R139 - Power Wash - R12??
E R176 - Blower relay - R16
E R208 - Heated front screen - R9
E R211 - Ignition - R13?
E R214 - Blower rear - R10
E R225 - Suspension - R7
E R231 - Wiper On / Off - SPDT - R3?
E R232 - Wiper fast / slow - SPDT - R2?
E R260 - Brake boost pump - R11?
E R267 - Heated washer jets / mirrors - R4

J R125 - Side lamp
J R132 - Lighter - R3
J R133 - Horn
J R138 - Heated rear screen
J R143 - Window lift
J R203 - Accessory Socket - R1
J R217 - Reverse
J R222 - HDC - Extrernal resistor
J R249 - Infotainment - R5
J R250 - Battery saver
J R257 - Fuel flap Lock - SPDT
J R258 - Fuel flap unlock - SPDT
J R259 - Wash pump - Complex Page 130
J R261 - CDL Lock - SPDT
J R262 - Driver Lock - SPDT
J R263 - Superlock - SPDT
J R265 - CDL Return 1 - SPDT
J R265 - CDL Return 2 - SPDT
J R274 - Auto lights

R229 - Seat



Thats what scares me. I'm thinking that relay R211 inside the Battery Junction box is closing after I shut the ignition down. If I keep my foot on the brake switch it doesn't happen. I'm worried that R211 is inside the Battery Junction box and its faulty. GRRR.

Hope I'm wrong, Its going to be hard to replace that box. Everything else seems to have an origin except this.

[Eric SDV6SE]

I read that you put a new brake switch in, are these polarity based? Might explain why everything works with your foot on the brake. If the polarity was reversed, to me it should work as per 'normal' ...

[timdo1]

Does anyone know what this connector does. Its inside front passenger wheel arch. It has a broken wire. Is it suspension related or something else? Anyway one wire was broken inside the connector. I will find a replacement and do a patch.

174288

[timdo1]

I read that you put a new brake switch in, are these polarity based? Might explain why everything works with your foot on the brake. If the polarity was reversed, to me it should work as per 'normal' ...

I thought the switch connector could only go in one way, but I will check. I did repl;ace it when I first started this journey, just in case, so I know its good.

[DazzaTD5]

Does anyone know what this connector does. Its inside front passenger wheel arch. It has a broken wire. Is it suspension related or something else? Anyway one wire was broken inside the connector. I will find a replacement and do a patch.

174288

*On the passenger side front there are 2 plugs like that.
*If you follow the lead down it will go to the the abs sensor.
*If the lead on the other side of the plug is green and you follow it down it goes to the brake pad wear sensor (which you replace when you do a pad change)

[DazzaTD5]

*OP mentioned seeing green corrosion in the plug of the TCCM (transfer case control module).
*It a common issue on a D3, you may well find if you look closely inside on the printed circuit board there will be corrosion damage on it.
*You can replace it with a used TCCM (from any D3 or D4) and you wont need to calibrate it.
*The calibration though with a GAP tool or other diagnostic equipment isnt hard.
*A faulty TCCM through corrosion damage will cause a lot of seemingly unrelated faults.

[BradC]

Thats what scares me. I'm thinking that relay R211 inside the Battery Junction box is closing after I shut the ignition down. If I keep my foot on the brake switch it doesn't happen. I'm worried that R211 is inside the Battery Junction box and its faulty. GRRR.

Hope I'm wrong, Its going to be hard to replace that box. Everything else seems to have an origin except this.

Pretty simple to test if you think about it. Pull fuse 28P from the CJB. That feeds the relay coil for R211. I'll lay fair odds that R211 is R13 in the engine bay box though.

[timdo1]

Pretty simple to test if you think about it. Pull fuse 28P from the CJB. That feeds the relay coil for R211. I'll lay fair odds that R211 is R13 in the engine bay box though.

I thought either R11 or R13. Not sure why the drawing dont marry up with the actual. Makes it a bit harder.

Your right about that fuse, I assumed everything went to the battery junction box first, but it doesnt. I'll look at this from a different angle. Power appears to come into the central junction box before branching back out. Kind of need all the drawings in front of you at once.

Thanks for that, great spot.

[timdo1]

*OP mentioned seeing green corrosion in the plug of the TCCM (transfer case control module).
*It a common issue on a D3, you may well find if you look closely inside on the printed circuit board there will be corrosion damage on it.
*You can replace it with a used TCCM (from any D3 or D4) and you wont need to calibrate it.
*The calibration though with a GAP tool or other diagnostic equipment isnt hard.
*A faulty TCCM through corrosion damage will cause a lot of seemingly unrelated faults.

I did look inside the Transfer Case module and found nothing, Cleaned it just in case. I had discounted it but I may replace it later if I cant find any other solutions. Quicker and probably cheaper than the CJB or BJB.

Thanks

[timdo1]

SO today I replaced the gear shift and now that part works again.

I also pulled fuses in the CJB to see if I could get the electrics to stop coming on. one fuse in particular stopped everything from doing that. Fuse 15 which is for the stop light. So something very strange is going on here.

Anyone with any brilliant ideas at the minute? Do I assume the worse or do I keep investigating.

I was thinking next to make sure that the ignition switch was stopping power going to the CJB when its turned to off. Co582 is the plug connecting to the CJB but I'm unsure which one that is. Does anone know where that information lives?

[josh.huber]

SO today I replaced the gear shift and now that part works again.

I also pulled fuses in the CJB to see if I could get the electrics to stop coming on. one fuse in particular stopped everything from doing that. Fuse 15 which is for the stop light. So something very strange is going on here.

Anyone with any brilliant ideas at the minute? Do I assume the worse or do I keep investigating.

I was thinking next to make sure that the ignition switch was stopping power going to the CJB when its turned to off. Co582 is the plug connecting to the CJB but I'm unsure which one that is. Does anone know where that information lives?

Has it got electric trailer brakes? They could explain a whole heap if it's wiring in wrong

[BradC]

So Fuse 15 supplies the "normally open" contacts on the brake switch. It *should* do absolutely nothing if you turn the car off with the brake pedal released, but if you have the brake pedal pressed it feeds back into the CJB electronic module (for it to do the brake switch plausibility tests) and puts the brake lights on.

Given you say the issue doesn't occur if you hold your foot on the brake and turn the switch off, either go with what Josh said about additional stuff on the brake circuit, or the CJB might be looking dodgy.

Put the fuse in and pull the connector off the brake switch and see what happens.

[timdo1]

Not sure what to look for with the trailer brake wiring. Is that the white plug at the rear? Or am I looking for the booster box inside the car, which I dont have.

Yes its strange allright and I suspect now the CJB. Does anyone know anyone who redoes them in Australia, or do I have to go to Turners in the UK. Does anyone have an idea of cost and a way to get in contact, I cant see an email address on the website, the contact us form doesnt like the car rego number, so I may have to ring them I suppose.

Also looking for some direction with the connectors to the CJB. I'd like to check the ignition switch is doing what its supposed to before I send away for a replacement on the worst component that could go wrong. I cant find, so far, any way of telling which connector is which for the CJB.

I have a long ish day today, but soon as I can I would like to try and test the brake switch theory and some other stuff around there.

As always thanks for the continued help.

[timdo1]

Hi everyone. I thought I would update.

SO Ive had some great success over the last few days. I found a whole heap of missing fuses in the engine fuse box. I replaced those and the fuses that I took off the CJB and no more electrics coming back on. Amazing. Missing fuses in the Engine bay were F4 ( which I dont think is needed because I have the V8), F2, F9, f28.

I left the battery connected overnight and through today, and no dashboard on, no voltage drop overnight

I still have an issue with the air suspension and the transfer case. Ive checked all the electrical connectors and have no corrosion. Next will probably fiddle with a Transfer Case ECU. Looking to replace and see what happens.

I drove it up and down the street today. Still stuck in low range and the suspension drops but it changes gear and I can manually change gears. Progress has been made.

[Airmech953]

With suspension and transfer case faults, I would have a hard look at the connectors at the LHS rear wheel arch. Continuity may check out ok, but if there is a wire with damaged insulation that can be sufficient to cause DTCs. I eventually found the fault on my machine by shaking each wire with someone sitting in the car to see if the display changed as I shook each wire.

[timdo1]

Special thanks to Airmech953. I bought his spare transfer case module, installed and re-calibrated the transfer case. All the faults went away except I do have a new one around the Transfer case. Apparently there is a VIN mismatch, which I can only put down to the new transfer case module. Anybody got any ideas on that. I'll do some research and try and find the answer.


I drove her normally around the block a couple of times, special programs are available. So thats a good win.

I also tested the air suspension, i cant use the switch to lower it, so I'll look into that. But when raising, the rear raises quickly, but the front is very, very slow, in fact the compressor overheats half way up. So I'm thinking valve block rebuild at the front? Is there a middle valve block? Does someone sell the kits in Australia. Overseas shipping for something crucial is a bit slow right now.


Thanks again Airmech. I appreciate the part, it helped solve that major problem.

[loanrangie]

Special thanks to Airmech953. I bought his spare transfer case module, installed and re-calibrated the transfer case. All the faults went away except I do have a new one around the Transfer case. Apparently there is a VIN mismatch, which I can only put down to the new transfer case module. Anybody got any ideas on that. I'll do some research and try and find the answer.


I drove her normally around the block a couple of times, special programs are available. So thats a good win.

I also tested the air suspension, i cant use the switch to lower it, so I'll look into that. But when raising, the rear raises quickly, but the front is very, very slow, in fact the compressor overheats half way up. So I'm thinking valve block rebuild at the front? Is there a middle valve block? Does someone sell the kits in Australia. Overseas shipping for something crucial is a bit slow right now.


Thanks again Airmech. I appreciate the part, it helped solve that major problem.

You'll need to program your vin to the TCM, can be done with a GAP tool if your vin is registered to it.
Pull the valve block out and clean it and match seals at a local oring seller.

[DiscoJeffster]

You can also take the more expensive but simple approach and buy this kit

Land Rover L322 Range Rover Discovery 3 4 R R Sport Valve Block Solenoids Oring Repair kit - 4x4 Air Seals (https://4x4airseals.com/product/land-rover-l322-range-rover-discovery-3-4-r-r-sport-valve-block-solenoids-oring-repair-kit)

[timdo1]

You can also take the more expensive but simple approach and buy this kit

Land Rover L322 Range Rover Discovery 3 4 R R Sport Valve Block Solenoids Oring Repair kit - 4x4 Air Seals (https://4x4airseals.com/product/land-rover-l322-range-rover-discovery-3-4-r-r-sport-valve-block-solenoids-oring-repair-kit)

Was just hoping for a kit that was local and I could get quickly. I made some calls today abd it seems that everyone wants to sell new blocks, not kits. I'm not shocked by that result. Thanks for that though. Its kind of working at the minute, The compressor just gets too hot and the down switch isnt working, so I'll probably order a kit and wait.

[Eric SDV6SE]

The 4x4 airseals kit from the UK is perfect and will sort it out. It takes longer to remove and refit the solenoids blocks than to strip and fit the Orings to the blocks.

[timdo1]

OK some great success today. Removed and cleaned the side air bag connectors. Put it all back togerther and all the airbag faults are gone. Its driving well, some transmission hesitation but that could be explained by it not having driven for a considerable amount of time. Ill get that looked at shortly, hopefully a good service will do the job.

Air con will need a re-gas, no cold coming out of that.

Otherwise its ready for roadworthy.

This weekend will be the rear tail gate not opening and the suspension switch no down. Then I'll put all the trims back together and send her off for the roadworthy. Hopefully driving it next week.

Thanks for all the help so far, not quite finished yet but its come a long way in 3 weeks.

[Airmech953]

I have more spare parts if you need

[timdo1]

I might need a rim off you. Not sure if a spare is a roadworthy item yet. Going to look at new off road rims soon but just need to get through roadworthy first.

[timdo1]

Does anyone know how to pull apart the centre air suspension etc switch block. Is there a trick to getting it out without destroying it?

[timdo1]

Dont Panic. I got it out and repaired it. Needed a good clean. The trick is to not focus on the dial and levers, they dont release the circuit board at the back. The circuit board clips out easily once you play a little.

[timdo1]

Good morning everyone. Last night i had 2 cylinders start miss firing. 6&5. I'm looking at the circuit diagrams now and I dont see anything that's common between them. Am i reading it right that the control module sends out a low voltage signal which tells the coil to fire? So distribution is achieved by the control module. So to test it I need a test light not a multi meter as I wont see the pulse?

[BradC]

So to test it I need a test light not a multi meter as I wont see the pulse?

You won't see the pulse with a test light either. You need an oscilloscope.

[timdo1]

OK. I'll test by putting a new plug in the coil pack and grounding it out. That will tell me a tale. I don't have a 5/8spark plug socket so that's a tomorrow problem now.

Bit of a bummer, car was doing so well, thought I had it beat.

Thanks for the reply.

[BradC]

I don't know anything about the V8. Can you swap coils around?

Edit: I just realised I have the workshop manual and yes you can. Have you tried moving the sus coils to other cylinders and see if the misfire follows?

I've diagnosed plenty of issues with COP assemblies by shuffling around to locate the dud/duds in the past.

Having now found details on the coils, you might well see action with a test light if it's fast enough. The power stage is in the ECU and the coil on plug is only a coil.

[timdo1]

Thanks. I pulled plugs this morning and replaced, they were all pretty much gone.

Got it all for back up but it's still missing. I've checked all the connections and nothing is loose. Problem is it's not reporting a fault on the gap tool. Computer says everything fine, which is odd. I'm going to drive it around to see if I can fault it.

The miss isn't as bad as it was. I'm wondering if I still have a coil that's on it's way out? I ordered 2 coil packs from ritters and they are supposed to be there today. I might have to start testing and swapping individual packs. Some of them especially 8 and 7 are impossible to get the plugs off. So that's going to be fun.

[discorevy]

Timdo, gap tool struggles to pick up cylinder misfires on the petrol motors, I use another tool for the petrols but you should be able to use any generic reader ( ELM 327 etc ) which will tell you which coil packs are faulty.
If you don't have access to another reader, start pulling the connectors off with engine idling to find the one that doesn't make any difference .

[timdo1]

I havent had pOwer or phone all day so thanks for the reply, sorry for my late response.

The gap tool picked up misfires in the live values bit. Cylinder 5 was basically not operating. Ritters had ordered 2 coils in for me, so I installed 1 and she fired straight up. Much smoother, power is there and the gear changes are now better. All the spark plugs were stuffed. Not much left on them at all.

Thanks again for the help and direction everyone. I passed my roadworthy on Wednesday. Just need to polish headlights and get rid of the check engine light which is fan 3 control circuit low. Haven't figured that out yet. Tonight's research perhaps.

Next big thing is transmission service, roof rack, car service, air con re gas and a working key. As long as the tranny is ok, I've had a big win with this thing.

In the meantime it will work this weekend dragging a trailer down to he peninsula for some work. Lets see what new things go wrong. 😉

[timdo1]

Looks like the suspect fan is the little computer fan in behind the battery that (I think) cools the 2 ecu's in there. I'll pull that out and test it in the next few days. Bit of a bugger, ive had it out a couple of times, did not think it would have been a big deal. That's life