Strange rattle sound coming from transfercase/gearbox area

[manuel]

Hi every one.

I just picked up my 6x6 97 perentie a few days ago, real beast of a machine it is, how ever, I have a mechanical grimlin already, on the drive home I started to hear a rattle sound, at first I thought that was normal, I thought no more of it and continued driving, it wasn't until a few days later when I took her for a spin it got really bad, at around 40-60kph the rattling sound becomes almost as loud as the engine! this wasn't happening when I first test drove it, so today I got under her, checked the transfer gearbox, yep got heaps and heaps of oil, seems clean too, checked the drive shafts they seemed secured in, bolts all look tight, ill try and upload an audio clip of this at of some point, bit bumed out was looking forward to taking her for a long drive, could any one give me some insight in what this could be? it sounds similar to the sound when you release the clutch pedal in neutral, but doesn't go away.
the previous owner was meticulous in caring for it, sadly he passed away.

thanks in advanced.

[rar110]

You could try tightening all the gearbox mounts. Mine became loose and resulted in a terrible grinding noise.

[I Love My Landy!]

Thinking outside the square a bit - problem with exhaust? (loose baffle in muffler, exhaust pipe hitting part of chassis, exhaust leak etc). Faulty exhausts can often make sounds you wouldn't normally expect. The sound can also travel anywhere along the pipe making it sound like it was coming from somewhere it isn't.

Edward :)

[Porker]

Thinking outside the square a bit - problem with exhaust? (loose baffle in muffler, exhaust pipe hitting part of chassis, exhaust leak etc). Faulty exhausts can often make sounds you wouldn't normally expect. The sound can also travel anywhere along the pipe making it sound like it was coming from somewhere it isn't.

Edward :)
I had this exact fault a couple of weeks ago it drove me nuts trying to find it. The rattle would only happen in a certain rev range so long story short the muffler completely failed one morning I purchased a second hand one from gumtree and no more rattle.

[manuel]

Thanks all for the input.. Well we found out the culprit, the u bolt joiners on the drive shaft had greese nipples, they where near dry! had them all filled up, and now the noise is mostly gone, its still present but at much lower volume.. I did see how ever at the transbrake on the rear I noticed oil slightly seeping out from the centre and spreading slightly, would this be some thing to be concerned about?

[I Love My Landy!]

Good to hear you found the problem Manuel!
Regarding your oil leak, it seems like you may have a leaking transfer case output shaft seal. The rear prop shaft & brake housing need to be removed to replace the seal. I'm sure I have used a double lip seal made by corteco. There should also be a felt washer or possibly a heap of silastic on the splines of the output shaft which prevents oil migration along the spline. The leak could be coming from there too. If the leak is bad enough it will get into your handbrake drum & contaminate the brake shoes. I don't think it's a major issue, but I wouldn't be putting too much confidence on the effectiveness of your handbrake.
Edward

[manuel]

cheers, thanks for the info, I think ill be replacing the gearbox/transfer case as the sycnchros are slightly worn, I have a new spare gearbox transfer case, so ill be chucking that instead in the near future.

[Blknight.aus]

Thanks all for the input.. Well we found out the culprit, the u bolt joiners on the drive shaft had greese nipples, they where near dry! had them all filled up, and now the noise is mostly gone, would this be some thing to be concerned about?

not to be subtle.

Change them

[manuel]

not to be subtle. Change them how come? why do they need to be changed?

[Blknight.aus]

how come? why do they need to be changed?

As a general rule, Anything on these vehicles with a grease nipple has a bearing in it, if its been squeaking its been run dry and is now worn.

Bearing failure on pretty much any part of a landrover driveline generally result in posts that have key words such as..

Entertaining, Expensive and occasionally, Fatality.


175067

Thats whats known as a prop shaft with a double carden joint. one end of it has a single universal joint and the other has a double carden.

there should be 5 locations that need to be greased on it.

1. the universal joint
2. the slip joint
3. the first uni of the double carden
4 the centralising bearing inside the double carden2
5. the second uni of the double carden.

Grease nipples for Ujs can be found in 3 general position In the center of the yoke, on its side or in one of the bearing cups.

the propshaft turn relatively quickly and has a fair whack of mass about it, if it runs unbalanced or on a clapped out uni eventually it will take out either the bearing thats supporting and end of it or itself will fail.

for further reading

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/66236-prop-shaft-u-joint-you-can-get-lucky.html?66236=#post841858

Disco II driveshaft rebuild - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum (https://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/disco-ii-driveshaft-rebuild-20509/)

the latter is not from this forum. but...

the zf auto is $4-6k to replace if you damage your casing.

the 6x6 lt95.... I've been quoted upto $11k. (keep in mind the lt95 is an all in one casing, if you break the main body of it you have to replace all of it, if you only damage say an output housing you can replace just that and its assosciated bits)

[manuel]

Thanks for the headsup, ill be ordering in a new set for the whole drive line, wont be taking any chances! Propshaft Universal Joint; Perentie, Range Rover Classic - KLR Automotive (https://klrautomotive.com.au/universal-joint/) Im assuming these are the correct set, thanks again.

[Blknight.aus]

Thanks for the headsup, ill be ordering in a new set for the whole drive line, wont be taking any chances! Propshaft Universal Joint; Perentie, Range Rover Classic - KLR Automotive (https://klrautomotive.com.au/universal-joint/) Im assuming these are the correct set, thanks again.

A tad Exxy, chack out the afmsafety webside, grab the RPS, look up the part number and head to almost any beaing, driveline, automotive place and order them in.


The only real way to do the propshaft saddle bwearing for the rear is to take it to a driveline place.

[manuel]

Thanks, I actually found two brand new universal joint kits in the back of the perentie that the previous owner had put, makes things easier.