Handy with a 3D printer?

[veebs]

Hi everyone!

Is anyone handy with a 3D printer? I’ve lost one of the screws holding the tow electrics cover on, and am reminded how dumb that design is.

I’m thinking something with the same engaging part of course, but add a thumb grip (instead of the coin slot) and possibly even a way of holding the whole thing captive against the cover?

Or does this exist somewhere already?

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSk85NMcRmTksDpY_t052vauiSJM_FYu r2UbA&usqp=CAU

[letherm]

Hi everyone!

Is anyone handy with a 3D printer? I’ve lost one of the screws holding the tow electrics cover on, and am reminded how dumb that design is.

I’m thinking something with the same engaging part of course, but add a thumb grip (instead of the coin slot) and possibly even a way of holding the whole thing captive against the cover?

Or does this exist somewhere already?

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSk85NMcRmTksDpY_t052vauiSJM_FYu r2UbA&usqp=CAU

If that doesn't pan out, Google Land Rover D4 tow cover clips. Plenty around. Chines import 10 for $10.

Martin

[Tombie]

You can get the STL file on Thingiverse to print them.

Question: Why is the design dumb? No thumb screw? To enable a thief to easily pinch it rather than using a ‘tool’?

The perfect tool to remove it is the key in the fob.
Always with you!

[veebs]

You can get the STL file on Thingiverse to print them.

Question: Why is the design dumb? No thumb screw? To enable a thief to easily pinch it rather than using a ‘tool’?

The perfect tool to remove it is the key in the fob.
Always with you!

Land Rover Discovery/LR4 tow cover thumbwheel fastener by pghhgp - Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1711927)

Perfect.

Right, now rather than spending $10 for 10 inferior designs on ebay, i'll wander down to Jaycar, spend a few hundred on a 3D printer, and make them for 'free' :-)

Thanks!

[DiscoJeffster]

I have just got one. I’m in Perth. I was going to print up the thumb screw ones from Thingiverse to make it easier to open [emoji846]

[DiscoJeffster]

I’m currently printing LR_Time’s new centre console insert which is deeper and more useful. It’s a little over engineered though I must say. I think you could drive the Land Rover over it and it wouldn’t break.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211020/13e67026da76316d77ec274cc746c020.jpg

[loanrangie]

Land Rover Discovery/LR4 tow cover thumbwheel fastener by pghhgp - Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1711927)

Perfect.

Right, now rather than spending $10 for 10 inferior designs on ebay, i'll wander down to Jaycar, spend a few hundred on a 3D printer, and make them for 'free' :-)

Thanks!

I got my printer on amazon, 2 days to my door for under $250.

[DiscoJeffster]

I bought the Anycubic Mega S

[Tombie]

Prusa [emoji41][emoji106]

And a little Trinus for quick jobs.

[Tombie]

The other way to make them “tool less” is some epoxy and a piece of plastic.

Glue a tab into the slot!

[DiscoJeffster]

Prusa [emoji41][emoji106]

And a little Trinus for quick jobs.

I expected nothing less for you Tombie. $$$

[Tombie]

I expected nothing less for you Tombie. $$$

I do enjoy my toys… my bank balance doesn’t.

[Typhoonandrew]

I've printed the sample one from Thingiverse and it looks OK. I don't see the legit ones being any more secure than the thingiverse version, because its easy to open with a screwdriver. If somebody wants to open the tow cover they'll get in easily.

[Tombie]

I've printed the sample one from Thingiverse and it looks OK. I don't see the legit ones being any more secure than the thingiverse version, because its easy to open with a screwdriver. If somebody wants to open the tow cover they'll get in easily.

Yes but not everyone carry’s a screwdriver around the car park at Woolies [emoji41]

[Typhoonandrew]

Yes but not everyone carry’s a screwdriver around the car park at Woolies [emoji41]

I'm willing to bet 80% of old disco owners keep a screwdriver in the car. :) Screwdrivers, shovel, gloves ...

[David2ayo]

It is easy to use a washer to open it, store it in the cubby on the drivers side of the rear compartment. Even the Stealers don't charge much for them. 174582There is a small section which has my washer and the key to the tow hitch, and it doesn't rattle. As far as keeping the little blighters, a circlip works wonders. I find it useful to lubricate (vaseline is one option, graphite probably better) so it works easier.
David.
Now, before anyone complains about the messy post, I know I suck at it!

[DieselLSE]

As far as keeping the little blighters, a circlip works wonders.
Now, that's a clever idea.

[DiscoJeffster]

Yes but not everyone carry’s a screwdriver around the car park at Woolies [emoji41]

I’ve only ever opened it with the top end of my house key? Most people have those.

[cjc_td5]

I’m currently printing LR_Time’s new centre console insert which is deeper and more useful. It’s a little over engineered though I must say. I think you could drive the Land Rover over it and it wouldn’t break.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211020/13e67026da76316d77ec274cc746c020.jpgHi mate. Thats a great idea. Have you got a link to where I might find a STL file?
Cheers, Chris.

[DiscoJeffster]

Hi mate. Thats a great idea. Have you got a link to where I might find a STL file?
Cheers, Chris.

Land Rover Discovery 3 center console tray from LR_Time by LR_TIME - Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4773076)

[Tombie]

I’ve only ever opened it with the top end of my house key? Most people have those.

Yeah.. you’re correct.

That’s another thing I don’t have [emoji41]

[101RRS]

I use a 10c coin - I agree the quality of the oem clips is not great as they do break when outside temps get well below freezing. However the op needs to stop being a bit tight [bighmmm] and just buy a few and keep a few as spares - as mentioned can be had for about $1 each.

Will the plastic in a 3D printer we any more tolerant to cold temps than the plastic in the OEM clips.

[josh.huber]

I keep a 20 cent coin under my towball cover, I forget and loose it from time to time.
Or I use a key, I always padlock the trailer hitch onto the car so there is always a key.

Had a boat trailer jump once, won't be doing that again.

[incisor]

Will the plastic in a 3D printer we any more tolerant to cold temps than the plastic in the OEM clips.

Depends as there so many different filaments out and about now

A polycarbonate / carbon fibre filament would do well I imagine

[RHS58]

I’ve only ever opened it with the top end of my house key? Most people have those.

Ha! Same here.

[BMKal]

Bought 4 of these and a spare cover from evilBay quite a few years ago now. Two are still on the car and the other two are on the spare cover in the parts shelf in the shed. Have never lost one or had one "nicked".

174807174808

[Tombie]

I solved the issue - I don’t refit the cover [emoji41]

[DiscoJeffster]

I solved the issue - I don’t refit the cover [emoji41]

Haha. Same

[BMKal]

I solved the issue - I don’t refit the cover [emoji41]

Mine spends more time off than on these days too. Only time I put the cover on is when I'm off to Perth, and I remove the towbar completely (unless I'm taking a trailer, which is very rare).

[loanrangie]

I’m currently printing LR_Time’s new centre console insert which is deeper and more useful. It’s a little over engineered though I must say. I think you could drive the Land Rover over it and it wouldn’t break.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211020/13e67026da76316d77ec274cc746c020.jpg


How long did it take, how much and what type of filament did you use ? PLA should be ok for this i expect.

[Tins]

My first ever print. FlashForge CreatorPro 2. I've got better with the settings. And, no, it's NOT going in my car. Printer only came with the two colours....

175024

[DiscoJeffster]

How long did it take, how much and what type of filament did you use ? PLA should be ok for this i expect.

PLA is too low a temp for in a hot car. I used PET-G. It was a 30 hour print. In my opinion the design is overkill - walls are overly thick but it works and fits.

[loanrangie]

PLA is too low a temp for in a hot car. I used PET-G. It was a 30 hour print. In my opinion the design is overkill - walls are overly thick but it works and fits.It won't get that hot in the console.

[Tombie]

I thought that in my D2.
The PLA parts all deformed in summer.

Now done in PETG

[DiscoJeffster]

It won't get that hot in the console.

Do as you wish. Worst case you waste a 30 hour print [emoji2369]

[Tins]

I thought that in my D2.
The PLA parts all deformed in summer.

Now done in PETG

Thanks Mike. I'm thinking of making a few things for the OKA. I had thought the heat deflection point of 60°C for PLA would be high enough.

[cjc_td5]

A new diff lock lever knob for my series FC project. Modelled on the series red & yellow shifter knobs. The centre is hex shaped to fit a couple of HT nuts, which I have just sealed in there by gluing a base cap on it. A bit of sanding and spray putty, a few coats of yellow paint, and it'll be good to go!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211112/729bca184efe238ad264e4ef9d2f3f74.jpg

[loanrangie]

I thought that in my D2.
The PLA parts all deformed in summer.

Now done in PETG

If its on the dash sure but a tray sitting in a console and covered 99.9999% of the time, i will try one of the test pieces and see how it goes.

[Tombie]

Thanks Mike. I'm thinking of making a few things for the OKA. I had thought the heat deflection point of 60°C for PLA would be high enough.

Me too! I printed the switch holders to replace the coin tray etc.
Didn’t last the first summer before deformation occurred.

And that’s not in direct sunlight.

[Tins]

Me too! I printed the switch holders to replace the coin tray etc.
Didn’t last the first summer before deformation occurred.

And that’s not in direct sunlight.

Little bit of goggling gave me this: Here'''s how hot temperatures can get in your car (https://www.clickorlando.com/news/2019/09/26/heres-how-hot-temperatures-can-get-in-your-car/)

[incisor]

Petg struggles over time I found so i went to asa and that sorted it out

abs is okay if you can get around the fumes while printing it

Pc/cf if your really serious

[Tins]

Petg struggles over time I found so i went to asa and that sorted it out

abs is okay if you can get around the fumes while printing it

Pc/cf if your really serious

I don't care about the fumes, Inc, but what print temp is required?

[DiscoJeffster]

I heard too many people tell me ABS is just too hard to get a good print with.

Remember this print has a massive base and walls and will want to warp as it prints. In the end I had two corners lift, but as it’s the base of a hanging container, it’s not a big deal and not noticeable.

I had great adhesion in the initial print, it warps as the walls went up

[cjc_td5]

I print ABS at 240 deg nozzle temp on a 90-100 deg glass bed.
I don't care about the fumes, Inc, but what print temp is required?

[Tins]

I heard too many people tell me ABS is just too hard to get a good print with.

Remember this print has a massive base and walls and will want to warp as it prints. In the end I had two corners lift, but as it’s the base of a hanging container, it’s not a big deal and not noticeable.

I had great adhesion in the initial print, it warps as the walls went up

Thanks, I won't try. Besides, the build volume won't fit in my printer.

3D printing is new to most of us, Tombie excepted. We should combine our knowledge, rather than argue. Yeah, I know, good luck with that...

[incisor]

abs doesn't like droughts.. eliminate them and it prints easily and a blue glue stick helps with the adhesion. a big cardboard box over the printer is all you need at times

the beauty of abs is you can print bits to size in parts and then glue them together with acetone

you can to a fair extent control warping with infill settings and the number of wall layers. i have printed some pots in abs that are right at the extremes of the print size on the machines with very little warping but it took a little to work out what worked in my environment

[cjc_td5]

abs doesn't like droughts.. eliminate them and it prints easily and a blue glue stick helps with the adhesion. a big cardboard box over the printer is all you need at times

the beauty of abs is you can print bits to size in parts and then glue them together with acetone

you can to a fair extent control warping with infill settings and the number of wall layers. i have printed some pots in abs that are right at the extremes of the print size on the machines with very little warping but it took a little to work out what worked in my environmentI have a coreflute box over my printer to keep the temperature as stable as possible. Also, turning off the cooling fan for big prints lets the print cool slower, with less warping or delamination.

[loanrangie]

I have a coreflute box over my printer to keep the temperature as stable as possible. Also, turning off the cooling fan for big prints lets the print cool slower, with less warping or delamination.I was just thinking this morning that coreflute would make a good thermal cover.

[cjc_td5]

I was just thinking this morning that coreflute would make a good thermal cover.Here is my setup. Needs a tidy up I know...

There is a clear plastic sheet front cover, hinged at the top with tape. The core flute box also stiffens up the top gantry, as the spool bracket on top is bolted through the cover on to the gantry.

There is bubble wrap under the unit to try to lessen noise being transferred through the cupboards in to the house...

I've burnt out two motherboards from the current draw for the heated bed. I now run a relay to supply separate power to the bed, switched from the motherboard.

Good light to see what's happening inside is crucial. I've mounted a LED strip light inside, switched separately to the printer.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211112/7e4981bf8056febadf27d30bff87959e.jpg

[cjc_td5]

With regards to temperature & UV stability coments above, I've had no real issues with ABS in this regard. I've got a ABS printed sun shroud around the touch screen in my D4, which has been there for 6-7 years now with no ill effects. A coat of paint is probably why. I've done roof rack pads and all sorts of stuff, which are all still battling along.

The only UV failure I can think of is a replacement wheel I printed for the clothes trolley out at the clothes line. That only lasted a couple of years, but it was raw plastic and copped the full brunt of sun & rain etc.

The only temperature fail I can recall is the spark plug covers I printed for my 86". They didn't like the engine temps and went a big saggy.... [emoji16]

[RANDLOVER]

One day in between plastic prints you'll be able to 3D print meat. You can now print meat... in space | TechRadar (https://www.techradar.com/au/news/meat-has-been-3d-printed-in-space-showing-slaughter-free-beef-can-be-produced-anywhere)

[Tins]

Am I imagining this? While waiting for Mr Bezos to deliver a roll of PET-G, I printed an item in PLA to test fit. It took 4:37 hours. Now with PET-G the slice software is telling me it'll be 3:43 hours. Does PET-G print faster than PLA?

FlashForge
175287

[DiscoJeffster]

Am I imagining this? While waiting for Mr Bezos to deliver a roll of PET-G, I printed an item in PLA to test fit. It took 4:37 hours. Now with PET-G the slice software is telling me it'll be 3:43 hours. Does PET-G print faster than PLA?

FlashForge
175287

Likely the software settings for pet-g has changed the speed of movement. You tend to move faster if I recall with Pet-g as it has a tendency to be quite stringy

[Tombie]

Am I imagining this? While waiting for Mr Bezos to deliver a roll of PET-G, I printed an item in PLA to test fit. It took 4:37 hours. Now with PET-G the slice software is telling me it'll be 3:43 hours. Does PET-G print faster than PLA?

FlashForge
175287

Yes. Faster and usually a little more retraction on turns.

Often still wrong for timing though!

[Tins]

My printer was happy to print this without supports in PLA. In PET-G not so much[bigsad]

175331175332

[gavinwibrow]

Anyone around prepared to do some of these?

I need at least 2 and possibly 4.

They are the clips that hold the headrests in the RRC.

The heading shows the original LR part number - unobtainium

and an apparent suitable replacement - probably the same

[Tins]

Anyone around prepared to do some of these?

I need at least 2 and possibly 4.

They are the clips that hold the headrests in the RRC.

The heading shows the original LR part number - unobtainium

and an apparent suitable replacement - probably the same

Like this, you mean?
175335

I could do a few, but you might find someone closer. Here's the link to the file if you find someone.

RRC Head Rest Holder by RRC_Parts - Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4834579)

[gavinwibrow]

Like this, you mean?
175335

I could do a few, but you might find someone closer. Here's the link to the file if you find someone.

RRC Head Rest Holder by RRC_Parts - Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4834579)

I'm happy to pay anyone (including postage) that is happy to do 4 - or less if they prefer - a volunteer is worth 10 pressed men!

[Tins]

I'm happy to pay anyone (including postage) that is happy to do 4 - or less if they prefer - a volunteer is worth 10 pressed men!

If nobody closer chimes in I'll give it a go.

[Tins]

If nobody closer chimes in I'll give it a go.

OK. I'm about 1 hour into a 17 hour print, so it'll have to be tomorrow but I'll print a few up.

[Tins]

I only have this colour in the suitable filament, but if it doesn't suit I guess you can paint it.

175350

[Tombie]

OK. I'm about 1 hour into a 17 hour print, so it'll have to be tomorrow but I'll print a few up.

Oh, sounds interesting. What’s ya makin’? [emoji41]

[incisor]

Like this, you mean?
175335

I could do a few, but you might find someone closer. Here's the link to the file if you find someone.

RRC Head Rest Holder by RRC_Parts - Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4834579)

be an interesting print

cleaning it up after printing it, even more so depending on the type of supports you use...

sadly i have .6 nozzles on my machines at present so be a bit of a waste of time me giving it a go

best of luck with it John

[Tins]

be an interesting print

cleaning it up after printing it, even more so depending on the type of supports you use...

sadly i have .6 nozzles on my machines at present so be a bit of a waste of time me giving it a go



The uploader mentioned sharp knife and supports...... The slicing software I use does a pretty good job with auto supports so I'll try that first.


best of luck with it John Lol, thanks Dave. I'll let you know how it goes. The CreatorPro2 is really good with weird prints. :thumbsup: Wish there was a 'fingers crossed' emoji...

[Tins]

Oh, sounds interesting. What’s ya makin’? [emoji41]

Nothing amazing, Mike. Son wants a dual cupholder for his GU.

Large coffee cup holder for Nissan GU Patrol by deeporange - Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4599903/comments)

[loanrangie]

Nothing amazing, Mike. Son wants a dual cupholder for his GU.

Large coffee cup holder for Nissan GU Patrol by deeporange - Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4599903/comments)Don't over capitilse the GU.

[Tins]

Don't over capitilse the GU.

Hey, it can only improve the thing...

[Tins]

be an interesting print

cleaning it up after printing it, even more so depending on the type of supports you use...

sadly i have .6 nozzles on my machines at present so be a bit of a waste of time me giving it a go

best of luck with it John

I'm a novice at this. The things printed fine and look the goods, but turned out way too brittle to be of any use.Given that the things are inside the seat maybe PLA would work better? I guess I'll just print one to see.

175368

[incisor]

I'm a novice at this. The things printed fine and look the goods, but turned out way too brittle to be of any use.Given that the things are inside the seat maybe PLA would work better? I guess I'll just print one to see.

175368

What did you print them in ?

[Tins]

What did you print them in ?

PET-G. Seemed like the best choice but I'm finding that thin prints are brittle. PET-G and PLA are the only filaments I currently have on hand. Bezos will soon deliver something else if you have a recommendation.
My printer doesn't actually say it supports PET-G, but the software does, and other prints have been fine. Breaking off rafts and supports is much easier than it is with PLA. Dunno if that makes sense.

[incisor]

What wall and infill settings did you use ?

[Tins]

What wall and infill settings did you use ?

No wall. I'd need to get back to you on infill. Auto supports. The thing looked perfect, but broke at a touch. Not very familiar with the slicing software, it's from FlashForge, dunno if I can use Cura with this printer, and I don't know yet how to go back to previous prints to access settings. But I guess I'm about to learn......

[Piddler]

I just bought a vacuum former, will be able to 3d print moulds then bang, vacuum form heaps quicker quantities,
I bought Pete sheet for that.

[loanrangie]

No wall. I'd need to get back to you on infill. Auto supports. The thing looked perfect, but broke at a touch. Not very familiar with the slicing software, it's from FlashForge, dunno if I can use Cura with this printer, and I don't know yet how to go back to previous prints to access settings. But I guess I'm about to learn......Cura will work and most likely have your printer settings built in and you can select the filament type.

[incisor]

No wall. I'd need to get back to you on infill. Auto supports. The thing looked perfect, but broke at a touch. Not very familiar with the slicing software, it's from FlashForge, dunno if I can use Cura with this printer, and I don't know yet how to go back to previous prints to access settings. But I guess I'm about to learn......

PetG is very hydroscopic and absorbs moisture which makes it brittle when printed... do you keep it sealed ?

i can't stand cura, the logic it is based on doesn't gel with my brain

i use superslicer, prusaslicer, ideamaker and s3d depending on what i need to print but mainly superslicer these days

[Tins]

PetG is very hydroscopic and absorbs moisture which makes it brittle when printed... do you keep it sealed ?

i can't stand cura, the logic it is based on doesn't gel with my brain

i use superslicer, prusaslicer, ideamaker and s3d depending on what i need to print but mainly superslicer these days

The roll of PET-G was brand new, delivered on Thursday.

I have only tried a couple of versions of FlashPrint so far.

The PLA print I tried went very well. But I only have two colours atm.

175377
and the bloody browser or something is rotating my pix again! Grrrrr

[Tins]

I just bought a vacuum former, will be able to 3d print moulds then bang, vacuum form heaps quicker quantities,
I bought Pete sheet for that.

Oh joy. Another rabbit hole to get lost in......

[incisor]

The roll of PET-G was brand new, delivered on Thursday.


Sadly that doesn’t mean it isn’t damp

I had a couple of brand new rolls that were damp and I had to dry them in the oven to get a decent print out of it

All part of the adventure

I store mine in sealed boxes with silica gel these days

Your doing okay

I might try printing one in asa later today if I get a chance

[Tins]

Sadly that doesn’t mean it isn’t damp

I had a couple of brand new rolls that were damp and I had to dry them in the oven to get a decent print out of it

All part of the adventure

I store mine in sealed boxes with silica gel these days

Your doing okay

I might try printing one in asa later today if I get a chance

Hmm. It was vacuum sealed, with a little pack of something that apparently I should not eat, direct from FlashForge. The various pieces of the cupholder I printed with it were fine, so maybe it's something I overlooked in the settings. Like I said, I'm a novice. Funny that the best place to look for advice on 3D printing is a forum dedicated to quirky British 4WDs.

I may crack the ****s every now and then, but I'll never leave this place.

[cjc_td5]

Hmm. It was vacuum sealed, with a little pack of something that apparently I should not eat, direct from FlashForge. The various pieces of the cupholder I printed with it were fine, so maybe it's something I overlooked in the settings. Like I said, I'm a novice. Funny that the best place to look for advice on 3D printing is a forum dedicated to quirky British 4WDs.

I may crack the ****s every now and then, but I'll never leave this place.

Hi mate.
In post #49 in this thread you will see the filament spool on my setup in a clear plastic box on top of the printer. This is foam rubber sealed to the cabinet and I have a couple of trays of beads in there to try to reduce the humidity in the box. ABS is hydrophilic like PETG and I rarely get issues with moisture causing delamination in prints. It also helps that I live in a relatively low humidity area. I have have baked the filament in the oven before, but I haven't had to do this for a few years now.

Cheers,
Chris

[incisor]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211128/a1aa77b53eb41db910273d87cdc19be7.jpg

Done in asa with a .6mm nozzle .3mm layer height, 4 shells vertical and horizontally

They are bigger than I originally thought they were

Will do another…

[incisor]

I just bought a vacuum former, will be able to 3d print moulds then bang, vacuum form heaps quicker quantities,
I bought Pete sheet for that.


:ttiwwp:

[Piddler]

:ttiwwp:

in transit [bawl]
not here yet unfortunately.

[Tins]

A new lesson learnt.Don't go out with a print running, or the filament will get pinched into the roll ( like a winch rope ) and the print will fail. Grrr

[DiscoJeffster]

A new lesson learnt.Don't go out with a print running, or the filament will get pinched into the roll ( like a winch rope ) and the print will fail. Grrr

Well that should be an anomaly not the norm. I don’t think it means you can’t ever go out - else will you never sleep or do one over 16 hours? After all, a 40 hour print is a long time. I had a power failure in the middle of one of mine - such is life

[Tins]

Well that should be an anomaly not the norm. I don’t think it means you can’t ever go out - else will you never sleep or do one over 16 hours? After all, a 40 hour print is a long time. I had a power failure in the middle of one of mine - such is life

Yeah, first time it's happened. One thing my printer alleges it can do is carry on after a power failure. Looking forward to testing that. Not.

[loanrangie]

I had that yesterday, a small roll not on a spool got knotted and caused a couple of layers to stuff up and not enough left to finish the print.
New roll on its way for take 2.

[Tins]

Anyone got thoughts on the best filament to print those pesky D1/2 headlight clips? I've been doing a few using PLA, but i'm not sure of the suitability. So far I'm not impressed with the results I get from my printer with PET-G.

[RRCL93]

I'm happy to pay anyone (including postage) that is happy to do 4 - or less if they prefer - a volunteer is worth 10 pressed men!

I'm not sure if you found someone but I'm going to be producing some in high quality Nylon that will be an almost exact replica of YXX2777. They will be grey as standard but I also have SUA (saddle brown) and LUL (grey) paint available. Pm me if you're interested.

[Tombie]

Anyone got thoughts on the best filament to print those pesky D1/2 headlight clips? I've been doing a few using PLA, but i'm not sure of the suitability. So far I'm not impressed with the results I get from my printer with PET-G.

What’s your retraction settings?
And your heat settings?
Do you have a heated plate?

[incisor]

Anyone got thoughts on the best filament to print those pesky D1/2 headlight clips? I've been doing a few using PLA, but i'm not sure of the suitability. So far I'm not impressed with the results I get from my printer with PET-G.

petg would get you bye but asa would be the best for a printed solution IMHO

petg takes some playing with to get right

is your setup a bowden setup or direct drive or ?

on my s3pro

i use
nozzle temp 230 for 2 layers then 240
bed temp 85 for first layer then 90

cooling fan
bridges 90%
30% first 5 layers
50% after layer 5

print
max volumetric speed 8mm/s
density 1.27g/cm3
extrusion multiplier 1
.4 extrusion width
layer height .2mm
4 shells
45mm/s speed

nozzle height
lift .05mm

retraction
.8mm @ 35mm/s

[Tins]

petg would get you bye but asa would be the best for a printed solution IMHO

petg takes some playing with to get right

is your setup a bowden setup or direct drive or ?

on my s3pro

i use
nozzle temp 230 for 2 layers then 240
bed temp 85 for first layer then 90

cooling fan
bridges 90%
30% first 5 layers
50% after layer 5

print
max volumetric speed 8mm/s
density 1.27g/cm3
extrusion multiplier 1
.4 extrusion width
layer height .2mm
4 shells
45mm/s speed

nozzle height
lift .05mm

retraction
.8mm @ 35mm/s
Thanks Dave. Mine is a Bowden IDEX unit. The documents don’t list compatibility with petg but people say that it will work. I get some stringing and the results seem pretty brittle. I’ll see if my printer will accept these settings.

[windsock]

Handy with a 3D printer indeed. Couldn't have thought of a better thread title than this for sure for a story I have just read about a 15 year old college kid in Wellington (even though it is in the Disco 3/4 forum...?). Bright future for this young guy and all who he works with and for. Heck, at 15 I was patching surfboards, sneaking beers, and figuring out what mischief to get up to next time I wagged school...

Three-year-old Avery'''s 3D-printed bionic arm the '''best Christmas present''' | Stuff.co.nz (https://www.stuff.co.nz/national/health/127367215/threeyearold-averys-3dprinted-bionic-arm-the-best-christmas-present)

[loanrangie]

Lots of good youtube videos on what is possible with 3D printing -

Making for Motorsport - prints inlet trumpets and manifolds
My Tech Fun - has a few vids on different filaments and weight/strength and temperature tests
Teaching Tech - a young teacher that also prints engine bay parts
Makers Muse - various how to's and product testing.

[Tins]

Lots of good youtube videos on what is possible with 3D printing -

Making for Motorsport - prints inlet trumpets and manifolds
My Tech Fun - has a few vids on different filaments and weight/strength and temperature tests
Teaching Tech - a young teacher that also prints engine bay parts
Makers Muse - various how to's and product testing.

Watched a fair bit of MM. Thanks for the other three.

[Tombie]

Just printed a couple of these up.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211224/c877f5a94af9f3c38a997d201062459c.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211224/22cfa946e08105f5360b85e8b0d1a89c.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211224/b85af109cfec095ac0863d069e6c1069.jpg

Sits on my RCBS reloading press and catches the primers as they are pressed out.
There’s a factory supplied version that’s absolutely useless and this sorts the problem.

[Tins]

You design that yourself, Mike? In TinkerCad or something?

[Tombie]

You design that yourself, Mike? In TinkerCad or something?

Sadly no, got the model from Thingiverse.

[Tins]

Sadly no, got the model from Thingiverse.

TV had THAT. Amazing. Still, I guess a fair few of our North American friends would have found it useful.

[cjc_td5]

Houston, we have a problem...
The bearing in the pulley that pushes against the extruder drive gear is cactus. It's a Balco (prusa) printer.

I don't even know what the part would be called to google it??? Does anyone know of a link to find a parts diagram, listing, or source of parts???https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220104/63868334f1a0148df887710bbd6c030a.jpg

[Tins]

CONTACT INFO
6 Prospect Place, Boronia, Victoria, Australia
Phone: +61 3 8727 7600
Email: customercare@balcolifestyle.com
Web: Balco Lifestyle – Home Page (http://balcolifestyle.com)

[cjc_td5]

CONTACT INFO
6 Prospect Place, Boronia, Victoria, Australia
Phone: +61 3 8727 7600
Email: customercare@balcolifestyle.com
Web: Balco Lifestyle – Home Page (http://balcolifestyle.com)I will try them but they haven't sold this model for a few years now, so parts will be unlikely... But it's just a generic Prusa copy so the part should be available somewhere, probably via ebay etc I'd imagine... Just got to work out its correct description.

[loanrangie]

I will try them but they haven't sold this model for a few years now, so parts will be unlikely... But it's just a generic Prusa copy so the part should be available somewhere, probably via ebay etc I'd imagine... Just got to work out its correct description.

Catch22, if your printer was operational you could print a replacement.

[Tins]

Apparently it's called an 'extruder idler arm'.. There are a bunch here: https://www.ebay.com.au/b/3D-Printer-Parts-for-Prusa-i3/183066/bn_7014028278'mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=705-53470-19255-0&campid=5338596835&customid=&toolid=10001

Can't see the exact one but it's a place to start.

[Tins]

Thought there'd be a 100 of the things on Thingiverse, as you can't be the only one to have broken one, but no.

[cjc_td5]

Thought there'd be a 100 of the things on Thingiverse, as you can't be the only one to have broken one, but no.It's the bearing that's failed, not the black plastic lever. It's a precision steel part...

[Tins]

It's the bearing that's failed, not the black plastic lever. It's a precision steel part...

Ahh... In that case any decent hobby shop, or perhaps even Jaycar, should have something. Probably the same as those bloody fitbit spinner things.

[drivesafe]

I am so Jealous of the products you lot turn out.
I have had my 3D printer for 15 months now and I have hardly achieve a thing.
Just don’t seem to be able to get my head around the different setting.
Then I see what you people are achieving.
WOW.

[Tins]

I am so Jealous of the products you lot turn out.
I have had my 3D printer for 15 months now and I have hardly achieve a thing.
Just don’t seem to be able to get my head around the different setting.
Then I see what you people are achieving.
WOW.
Bit difficult to print dual battery controllers Tim.

[Tombie]

Bit difficult to print dual battery controllers Tim.

Yes, but it can print housings, custom switch boxes etc.

The end caps on the XLifter are all 3D printed

[cjc_td5]

A drink bottle holder I drew up the other evening, for the door of my series FC build. It will be recessed in to the door card.
I'll print it in 3 sections to save support and also fit in my printer's build volume. When I get my printer back working again that is....

176156

[drivesafe]

Yes, but it can print housings, custom switch boxes etc.

The end caps on the XLifter are all 3D printed
This is exactly what I wanted the 3D printer for, but so far, the end results are crap.

Some time ago, Dave advised me to get some GOOD QUALITY ASA and I will do this shortly, and see if it improves the quality but I think it is more about the operators lack of 3D printing skills!

[incisor]

This is exactly what I wanted the 3D printer for, but so far, the end results are crap.

Some time ago, Dave advised me to get some GOOD QUALITY ASA and I will do this shortly, and see if it improves the quality but I think it is more about the operators lack of 3D printing skills!

my offer still stands....

[drivesafe]

my offer still stands....
I’ll phone you tomorrow.

Thanks.

[Tombie]

Woohoo. Love deliveries.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220112/504261a8fb03633e1e753aae876bba5f.jpg

Top one is another spool of ASA. Bottom 2 - PLA+

[cjc_td5]

Yeehah! let the assembly begin!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220120/07779cce5d7c2437e5dafdab57986404.jpg

[Tins]

Yeehah! let the assembly begin!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220120/07779cce5d7c2437e5dafdab57986404.jpg

That's a complicated way to get a new bearing....

[cjc_td5]

Anybody with a series landy (or possibly a defender) would recognise these. Way more fun than buying new ones.. [emoji16]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220129/55d6870e7477ad9b1d9313aeb828374c.jpg

[Tombie]

My cheapo 3Dp has been ticking away for the last few weeks.

Not making Landy gear, but things for ballistic sports.

Primer catcher for RCBS
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220425/a2c8818a7df1ad5d0f0a8a5f6d26e10c.jpg

A mount for a red-dot on a Labradar
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220425/47a8bd6bdd15b07dd03bc75a9e397744.jpg


And some front tray fillers
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220425/613b4e0337ef128e57eb2eab7cb007c5.jpg

[drivesafe]

my offer still stands....
Hi Dave and a bit of an update.

I sent an e-mail to QIDI and explained what was happening.

They sent me back a number of software programs and a reboot update.

After carrying out their instructions, I am, for the first time, getting near perfect prints.

I have run out of time for now but expect a few tweets of setting will get me what I have been trying to produce.

It seems to have been a software issue from the start.

Much happier with the X-Max now.

[Tins]

My printer is a Flashforge Creator Pro 2. This comes with its own slicer known as Flashprint. Flash it is not. Very few settings to play with. I have now discovered a profile for Cura that allows it to talk to the printer, something it could not do previously ( FFCP2 does not understand G Code ). OK, this creates problems of its own, as now I have heaps of settings... There are very many people who talk Cura on YT etc. Most of them seem to assume I already know the slicer, but I don't. Any of you experienced 3Ders point me at a good place to start?

I like the versatility of the dual extruders, but at some point there will be another printer in my life and I'd like to just need familiarity with one piece of software.

[Tins]

Is anyone else using Overture filament? I got some of their PLA Professional from Bezos, and I am quite happy with the print quality so far. I also got some Glow PLA, which needs care or it snaps when feeding. Once that's sorted it also prints well. Glow in the dark dragon for the 8 YO, skull for the 12 YO.

[Tins]

My cheapo 3Dp has been ticking away for the last few weeks.

Not making Landy gear, but things for ballistic sports.

Primer catcher for RCBS



Now for some plastic.. errr, projectiles...

[drivesafe]

Just an update with history.

I spent up big to buy a 3D printer that I hoped was smart enough to help with my ignorance of the field.

This has proved to be a big waste of money.

After numerous e-mail conversations with QIDI, and some short lived improvements, I was trying ( for about the 100th time ) to print a run of small containers.

I could get one or two runs and then the settings would need to be changed.

Then about 6 months ago, again I was trying to print a number of runs when on the second run the hot base rose to the print position and the drop straight back to the start and a message came up say hot bed sensor not responding.

So I turned the 3D off, gave it a break and tried again and again, same thing EXCEPT, this time the hot bed lead was sitting on top of the bed. It had unplugged and was probably never plugged in properly in the first place.

WRONG, on inspection of the plug, it was still plugged into the socket and the socket had desoldered from the base of the hot bed.

On closer examination, it turns out the socket had only had 3 of the 8 pins properly soldered from the factory and the other 5 pins had dry solder joints.

This would account for having to continually reset the print perimeters.

I resoldered the socket properly back to the hot plate and tested it.

It not only worked perfectly, the very first print gave me the best print I had ever had.

I e-mailed QIDI and I informed them of what I had found.

Their reply “ as your printer is out of warranty you will need to buy a new Hot Base”

So much for their backup.

Thanks to moving, I have not had much time to LEARN again, from the start, how to properly use this gross waste of money.

QIDI must get their Customer Response training from Land Rover.

[Tombie]

My Prusa is ticking along nicely at the moment.
Continuously printing since December to produce parts for reloading equipment.

I’ve got enough on the go the new Prusa XL 5 head unit has been ordered.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230212/8f28026d030a536088b8c02ebdd69196.jpg

[TheDonsWay]

I use the Aldi shopping trolley token to open mine. Always in the console ready to go.

[Tins]

https://youtu.be/Cj9TMmUldhc