2009 Defender (Puma 2.4) clutch slave replacement

[TeZZaP]

Symptoms;

(1) Started to notice a rattle noise which stopped when I depressed the clutch pedal.

(2) Clutch pedal lost firmness so that you could press it 2/3 of the way down before feeling any resistance. Actual change of gears OK though.

(3) Checked clutch master only to discover it empty (last check 12 months ago).

(4) Topped up Master pedal, pedal feel back, but not as firm as before.

(5) 'Mysterious' fluid discovered dripping from drainage hole at bottom of bell housing...

Conclusion;

Slave cylinder leaking...

Bugger, that looks like a big job from a bit of an internet search! I've not done anything that big on a Defender before, I have rebuild series vehicles from the ground up though, so not a complete novice at these things!

Has anyone here replaced the slave cylinder/throwout bearing on a Puma, how'ed it go?

I guess it's worth changing the clutch while I'm in there, anything else worth changing?

I found a pretty comprehensive YouTube video and am thinking of following it, they use the drop the gearbox method;

DIY: How to replace Land Rover Defender Clutch - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bD8t06uqurY)

[DazzaTD5]

*Defender models 2007 - 2016 the clutch and assembly used are all rubbish Ford parts.
*There is plenty of info on AULRO
*My perspective is from using a vehicle hoist, if I didnt have one I'd use a trolley jack with or without a gearbox plate.

*Leave centre console in place
*unclip the range selector rod at the ball joint end, not the button end.
*If you dont want to do a de-cat, you can leave the exhaust in situ.
*If you want to decat, then cut the cat bracket with a grinder.
*The prop shafts dont need to be marked on the flange ends, they are balanced within themselves and not related to the diffs or transfer case.
*The flywheels seem good quality and generally only need a clean up (as in no hot spots or bluing)

*I generally keep about 10 sets of all the parts needed to do clutch jobs for myself.
LR048731 - dont use the genuine clutch kit, I use ClutchFix and think they are awesome (I do import and sell ClutchFix parts)
LR068979 Cylinder - Clutch Slave
LR068981 Adapter
LR068982 Valve - Control
LR004390 | Spigot bearing - replace if the rollers have fallen out of the bearing case (If it looks good, just grease it up, unless you have the special tool or one you have made up you will be in for a whole lot of hell to remove it)

LR032880 - 2.2 heat shield for the crankshaft position sensor (replaces the pressed foil shield used on the 2.4)
LR052893 - 2 off, collars for the top shift assembly, mount them diagonally (same as 2.2)

Of course I would also be looking at doing the adaptor shaft between the Ford MT82 gearbox and the Land Rover LT230 transfer case

[scarry]

Yes,been there done that,not like the old easy LR job on the older models,where it’s outside the bell housing.

A real PITA job.

Good luck with it all.🙂