Notes on RRS L320 MY10 TDV8 6HP26 Transmission Steel Pan, Filter & Fluid replacement.

[haydent]

Luckily this transmission is widely used and has been around a while, so you can get at a good price a steel pan kit, with separate filter, new bolts and gasket and 6L ZF Life Gaurd 6 oil. ($400)

This way you dont need to lift the engine to change the pan/filter. Plus its meant to be cheaper over long run as not buying new plastic pan every time.

So theres plenty of docs and videos around of people doing this but I thought id add my tips id remember to do next time easier, i had to disconnect and jack up TC to lift the trans a little, not sure if this is normal.

I chose to just do a oil swap, not "full flush", and just do 1-2 more oil changes sooner, comparing the resultant color of each.



On the day of the job dont run your AC, turn it off, as the last thing you need is water dripping on you and potentially in the sump while putting it on...
Technically I could fit under the car with it in raised height, its pretty tight, so I made up 4 small caravan style leveller ramps with a few stepped layers of sleepers)
Even though i was able to get the old sump off (after cutting up, more on that later) without jacking anything, I couldnt get the new pan past the filter once fitted due to the non-removable front cross member. So make the job easier from the beginning and put a jack with block of wood under the transfer case, take some weight, remove the one bolt holding the transfer case mount, and lift the gearbox/tc/ just a little, try 5-10cm first, adjust as needed later, but being mindfull of not going too far.
After the initial drain i put the plug back in to stop drips, but when you take most bolts out and the pan drops down enough to disconnect the filter pickup tube, about another litre will flow out. have the oil pan ready, and take out drain plug again, or catch it as you lower a corner of the pan and it flows out over the edge.
Now the tricky bit, cutting the filter pickup tube, so you can get the pan/filter out without apparently having to disconnect an engine mount. Ive seen you can do it with a hacksaw blade, but i could not get enough purchase and force on it and space is very limited, so i just used a multi-tool vibration cutter to cut the pan in half as close the the front non removable cross member as possible, to then get access to the tube and cut it with the multi tool too. I think i might dave better luck with a coarser toothed blade and trying with the jack lifted TC (I had only lifted after getting the pan off)

WARNING - About this last bit you have to obviously be very careful to not cut too deep, though there is a fair amount of gap once the pan is hanging (no bolts) which gives you a safety margin, and obviously only use a plastic cutting blade, the main issue to watch out for is when cutting the outer edges as you there is less gap here and you dont want to scratch the mating face, put your finger or a piece of wood in the gap, it wont cut you, but you will feel when you have gone enough, also watch out for brown plastic box about mid way, as it could be damaged too, thats why cut close to front member to be clear of this.
ALSO be aware this method will flick plastic 'dust' up onto the bottom of the valve block that must be cleaned, its coarse, so not hard to spot, and the filter will hopefully catch anything you miss, consider this a last resort method, though it is easy and fast.


Then fitting the new kit is easy with the TC lifted a little (i spent about an hour trying to get it one before lifting the tc, and even considered removing the exhaust). Once the filter is fitted and aligned so its prongs saddle the valve block segments, lift the pan up at 90 degrees to its final position with the drain/fill end facing the passenger(au) side of the car, then get it over the filter and rotate.
Mine took almost 5L to fill once the engine was running, pan temp 40 deg.





Torque for new pan bolts 10NM
Torque for original side fill plug 35NM (didn't realise until after installing new pan that it had a fill plug, so could have not used this one.
Torque for TC mount bolt 175NM


Not a bad video on the topic: Atlantic British Presents: Automatic Transmission Filter Conversion On An LR3 - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RuaohqXnPM8&t=1198s)

[haydent]

Just did 2nd transmission oil change, and found the new fill port (in the pan) problematic.

For starters its a rare hex size that i couldnt find in supercheap, i think its like 17mm but not 100%, i found one of my 3 jaw pullers center bolt head fitted so used that.

Secondly I couldnt seem to use it to get a decent amount of oil back in. I got about 1.5 litres back in before it started to overflow, i think this is not that bad, so then i started the engine to get pump primed and pumping and the rest in.

At this point i should have been about to put in about another 3.5 liters but more started flowing out than before the engine was started ! like heaps more. so i stopped the engine and put that fill port plug back in.

Stumped and knowing i had not put anywhere near as much in as needed, i went back to using the original side fill port.

This went fine. and got the rest in.

What I think might have been happening is the fluid that was exiting the internals and falling down to the pan was splashing and falling out the whole, there is a white plastic hood that i figure is meant to stop it falling right out, but maybe this has become dislodged as there's nothing really holding in place (i put my finger up to try and feel, should have tried looking with torch though).



On another note, in regards, to fill temp, I found that with the relatively significantly large portion of the oil that must be put in while the engine is running, likely by the time you get it all in the tranny/oil temp will be above the 30-40 deg measure temp, particularly if the car was worm to begin with.

So i leave the car overnight to cool down, and get another .5L in when its at about 35 deg compared with 50 deg.

[haydent]

I thought i might share the official level check guide:
177689
177690

[Bulletman]

Unless I have read this wrong you fill from the plug that is on the side of the ZF box . I have a discovery but I'm sure the set up is the same .
You fill from that plug and cycle thru the gears and then once the temp is between 30-50 you fill till it dribbles out the plug .
It's been a few months since I have done a change but that's how I remember it.

Bulletman

[haydent]

The aftermarket steel pan i installed has a small bolt drain, and then the larger plug is a fill, as it has a riser, kind of reverse to the standard plastic pan, but for me it didnt work.

Ford ZF 6HP26 6Spd Automatic Transmission Steel Metal Sump/pan Conversion kit (black gasket) - MJ Products (https://mjproducts.com.au/shop/ford-zf-6hp26-6-spd-automatic-transmission-steel-metal-sump-pan-conversion-kit/)

[Bulletman]

The correct fill plug is on the box , takes a standard size think its 5 or 6mm hex or allan key.
Pretty sure it's on drivers side about 20mm above the lip of where the sump bolts up.

Cheers Bulletman

[Bulletman]

If you fill thru the correct plug you will get majority of the oil in first go and can complete the job first go , you wont need to let cool down till next morning and from what I read not be sure if the box is correctly filled.

Bulletman

[101RRS]

You drain through the small hex sump plug and fill through the filler hole in the side of the gearbox with the gearbox temp between 30c and 50c. With the engine off fill through the fill hole until it runs out - then start the engine and move through the gears - I then leave in drive (remember to do this safely) and then continue to fill the gearbox until the fluid runs out then put the fill plug back in. Switch off etc.

Ignore the big hex drain plug - is not needed.

[Graeme]

Now the tricky bit, cutting the filter pickup tube, so you can get the pan/filter out without apparently having to disconnect an engine mount. Ive seen you can do it with a hacksaw blade,

The common method is to give the pan a sharp horizontal pull to snap the plastic tube rather than cut it.

[haydent]

I tested with it left in drive it make no difference, just having the engine running, and having been through the gears is enough.

You all seem to be missing the point, Im well aware of the factory fill/drain setup, Im reporting on the lack of effectiveness (for me) of the NEW fill port you get on these after market metal pans, and how I reverted back to the default fill.

Re letting it cool down, if you start with a warm car, by the time you have left it running enough to fill to 2nd largest portion of the oil (after 1st of filling with engine off) your temperature will be 50+ over the recommended 30-40.

177692

[haydent]

I did a test with internal temp sensor (IID diagnostics tool) vs ir thermometer on pan, and both read the same.

This is pointing the gun at the rear half of the pan as that is the hottest, im assuming as thats where the fluid exits the internals and falls into the pan again.

[101RRS]

You all seem to be missing the point, Im well aware of the factory fill/drain setup, Im reporting on the lack of effectiveness (for me) of the NEW fill port you get on these after market metal pans, and how I reverted back to the default fill.

No one is missing the point - just use the filler in the side of the gearbox. What if the transmission sump was of the type that often comes up for sale that did not have a drain nor filler, you would definitely have to use the filler at the side of the gearbox or use the pipes that connect to the trans oil cooler.

[DiscoDB]

Hi Haydent - never worked out how to use the filler point in the genuine ZF steel pan either. I think this was intended for first fill use from the factory using an adaptor on it with some makes (like Audi and some BMW’s) which had a genuine steel pan from new but this was never used by LR.

For the refill I prefer to follow the offical ZF procedure which is much more detailed and in typical German fashion a more precise method to get the level perfect.

https://aston1936.files.wordpress.com/2018/12/zf-automatic-transmission-6hp26-factory-service-guide.pdf

After you have gone through the multiple steps to get the initial oil in (running the engine, and going through the gears etc) - the final fill steps after it has cooled down again to then get the level correct is quite a precise process according to ZF.

At 30-35degC the oil level is slightly overfilled, and then in the last step as you slowly warm the oil up to 40degC the oil expands and keeps dripping out. At 40degC with only single drops dripping out the level is now at the maximum level and you fit the fill plug. If still a continuous flow out at 40degC, then you need to let it keep overflowing until you only get single drops but can not go above 50degC as you would then be at the minimum allowed level.

If you do it right you will have single drops before you get to 40degC, and then just refit the fill plug when you pass 40degC.

Many just check the level at 30-50degC which will be near enough right, but I prefer the ZF procedure which is more precise.

[loanrangie]

Just use the level plug like everyone else does, pan is lower so not suitable anyway .

[haydent]

Heads up, I just noticed weeping and drips on bolt heads at rear of pan, thought maybe id check the torque, and all the bolts were really loose, guessing half the required torque, which isnt much (10nm). So touched them all back up. It seems the gasket maybe contracts or compresses over time ? (40k km)

Also my temperature sticker is working and shows the box max temp about 110 deg. What a simple sticker like this doesnt show though, is did it once up a big hill hit that temp, or is it regularly running that hot...

184017

[101RRS]

Where do you get the stickers from? Not seen that before [smilebigeye]

[haydent]

Where do you get the stickers from? Not seen that before [smilebigeye]

RS PRO Non-Reversible Temperature Sensitive Label, 77degC to 127degC, 10 Levels | RS (https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/temperature-sensitive-labels/7799772)

min order 10, so i have spares if want to buy one off me at cost and pay letter postage.

[101RRS]

Thanks - was just curious as to where you got them

[haydent]

got the idea from a similar thing ashcroft were selling, so found something similar local

[haydent]

So i did a oil and filter change now we've done nearly 50k since first install. I ordered a gasket and filter off ebay from same seller, he does sell filter by itself, but figured i should have one spare and ready if it comes off damaged but it wasnt stuck to the transmission body at all, so i reused it. normally this would save $20 , with the filter being $33 by itself.

I forgot to take the transfer case bolt off at first, until I couldnt take the pan off, so read my original post, I wish i had earlier, as it would have made taking all the bolts out easier too. So once i had a bottle jack under the tc mount with the bolt out, i moved it up a bit, and did the swap, leaving the jack under while putting all the bolts back in.

This time around I had one of these pumps, and its the best thing, i could just lie back and let it do all the hard work. Also when you have to warm the transmission up to 40 deg and keep it running while you put in the last few litres it makes this fast to avoid the transmission getting much hotter.


185126

Also this time around I had the GAP tool, so i could compare the temp on the tool and that read on the pan, and the spot on the pan that is closest to the tool is towards the front near the drain plug.

Took 5 Litres through the side fill port. Im going to cut open the filter and post the photos in the next post. Ive left the stone guard off for a few days to monitor for leaks.

[TheDonsWay]

Just use the level plug like everyone else does, pan is lower so not suitable anyway .

How do you undo the side filler plug? I have a Disco 3 V6 4.0. I have gone through the procedure of replacing the sump and filter. I am unable to undo the side fill plug.

[101RRS]

Eat more weeties.[thumbsupbig]

[haydent]

I have hex key / allen key socket set, so use that with bar. it can be tough, pray you dont strip it...

[Tombie]

I have hex key / allen key socket set, so use that with bar. it can be tough, pray you dont strip it...

Fit hex socket, tap firmly, then undo….

[haydent]

I recently did my filter and oil again, change number 2 after originally switching.

I found the rubber seal on the neck of the filter had separated and got left behind in the transmission, so it meant the filter was sitting in the pan when i dropped it, and so couldnt remove the pan, so had to hold the filter up with screw driver to be able to slide the pan out of the way.

I didnt realise this had happened right away, and couldnt work out why the new filter wasnt going in, so look out for this.

Then i had to use a screwdriver to bend the seperated seal to pry it out, as its wire/steel ribbed.

Ive also found after putting the new filter and gasket in, i have to keep re-tightening the bolts, this seems to be a problem with this gasket design, it must compress over time, though you would think it would expand ? unless the bolts are coming loose, maybe i could mark them as a test., but with the last time , eventually you dont have to keep tightening, you just have to regularly monitor for oil leaks after doing the replacement, which means its best to not replace the cover (assuming you arent going offroad)

I noticed the company (mjproducts.com.au) offers a different gasket now too, so maybe this is a improved design to address this problem. Infact now i look for links there are 3 choices:

Green Genuine
Black Duraprene (the ones ive been using)
Steel / Rubber (which they claim a guarantee of no leaks and reusable)

[Tombie]

I’ve been using the steel rubber combo. So far no leaks and done the transmission 4 times in its life.

[haydent]

Thanks, its seems that would be the best choice, and what ill use next time.

[PerthDisco]

The filter dropping out and leaving the seal in seems normal. Fitting the new pan is a juggle to push up the filter and get the pan in place fast as seems to all hold together like a sandwich.

The rubber gaskets need an occasional check. Several of my bolts were finger tight but no leak at the time I did the last pan removal. Getting them to torque and taking the squish out prolongs the agony of getting the pan and new gasket back on.

I wish I went the rubber/ steel.

[loanrangie]

The grey duraprene that mj products sell is good, I reused it after doing the valve body rebuild and it's dry as a bone.