Chain Saw blade sharpener

[gromit]

After having to cut up a lot of branches following the recent storms the chainsaw blade needed sharpening.
For some reason files are not what they used to be and a couple I tried barely touched the blade.

Has anyone had any joy with the cheap grinders on Ebay ? Waste of time ?

The chainsaw only comes out when I need to do some pruning or dealing with fallen branches and to be honest 3 new blades were only $25 delivered !


Colin

[Ferret]

I have an el cheapo Ozito sharper, $40 ex Bunnings. Excellent results after you figure out how to use it.

3 chains for $25, have you actually tried them? Are they any good?

[Don 130]

I've got one like this (https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-85w-chainsaw-chain-sharpener_p3370035), but mine is branded with a different name. It's been very reliable and has sharpened chains many dozens of times over about 10 years. Good value in my opinion.
Don.

[DieselLSE]

I suspect my Gardenline sharpener is the same as Don 130's and Ferret's. It's by no means a precision instrument, but if you're careful and as consistent as possible it gives a good result. I have about a dozen chains and once I've used half a dozen or so, I have a sharpening day. I don't touch up the chains in the field when they start to dull, I simply replace them, but I have completely restored chains for other people that they've let go blunt with uneven cutters and depth blades.
A few pointers:
1. Use a precision ruler (I use a Vernier caliper) for selecting the smallest cutter. Mark the top of the smallest cutter with a permanent marker and sharpen it first. If some of the other cutters are way longer, don't try to cut them to size in one go. Just take a smidgeon off at a time.
2. Use the lubricant stick (usually provided with the tool) on the grinding wheel.
3. When cutting, the wheel should lightly touch the cutter. I usually do three light cuts on each cutter. Remember, it is the corner of the cutter that does the sawing.
4. Bolt the tool to your work bench. Even when firmly fixed, the tool will have lateral movement. In other words, the grinding arm can be made to move laterally as you bring it down to the cutter, so you could easily push it away from contact or bring it into too much contact. So choose a way that's comfortable for you to lower the arm and do it the same way each time.
5. Wear eye protection!
Finally, no matter how hard you try, and no matter how carefully you lay it down, a chainsaw chain will always manage to tie itself into an unfathomable knot that seems impossible to untie; each time you've just about got it, it manages to knot itself the other way. There is no known scientific explanation for why this happens, or how you always manage to untie it eventually without ever figuring out how. Just accept that some things in life are beyond explanation.

[101RRS]

I use a Demel with a Skil chain saw sharpening stone in the chuck - works great.

[gromit]

I have an el cheapo Ozito sharper, $40 ex Bunnings. Excellent results after you figure out how to use it.

3 chains for $25, have you actually tried them? Are they any good?

It was one of these cheap chains that dulled after many hours of work. Seem perfectly OK.


I use a Demel with a Skil chain saw sharpening stone in the chuck - works great.

I'd seen the sharpening stones that fit in a Dremel, that was another option. Some on Ebay even come with a poor mans 'Dremel'.

There are also a number of 'grinders' on Ebay that fit on the tip of the blade while in the saw, it looks like you run the saw and it grinds the top surface of each 'tooth'. I honestly can't see these doing anything except ruining the blade.


Thanks for the responses, might have to get a cheapy and have a play although 3 chains for $25 means i need to sharpen a few to make it worthwhile.





Colin

[Tote]

I've got one of these, Amazon.com : Oregon 109178 Saw Chain Bar Mounted 12-Volt Mini Grinder/Sharpener : Bar Mount Chainsaw Sharpener : Patio, Lawn & Garden (https://www.amazon.com/Oregon-109178-Mounted-12-Volt-Sharpener/dp/B0000AX0BA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8) Does a good job but I keep 3 or 4 chains and it's a nuisance having to set up the grinder every time you mount a new chain. The mechanism to swap from one side to the other is also a bit fiddly and you have to check the angle every time. I bought it with the intention that I would be using it in the paddock but its easier to have a few chains rather than sharpening in the field.

I suspect you can't buy them anymore, mine is made in Italy I think.

Regards,
Tote

[trout1105]

I use a simple file and sharpen on a regular basis, Don't wait until the chain gets too blunt and starts to burn instead of cutting.
A file works just fine and there is no fiddly setup involved[thumbsupbig]

Remember the K.I.S.S principle[biggrin]

[gromit]

I use a simple file and sharpen on a regular basis, Don't wait until the chain gets too blunt and starts to burn instead of cutting.
A file works just fine and there is no fiddly setup involved[thumbsupbig]

Remember the K.I.S.S principle[biggrin]

As mentioned in the first post.....a file makes no impression on the teeth.
I could try and find a better quality file but it may be the hardness of the teeth on the cheap chain.

Colin

[shack]

As mentioned in the first post.....a file makes no impression on the teeth.
I could try and find a better quality file but it may be the hardness of the teeth on the cheap chain.

ColinThe quality of the steel the teeth are made of on the cheap chains is all over the place.

Once you have hit a couple of the extra hard teeth your file will be finished.

Bench grinders are somewhat Quick and dirty, but I use them all time as well, but you need to pay around $120-150, any cheaper and they are not good, $500 is even better!

That said, if you know how to sharpen properly I think the file gives the best result, maybe try and get a "better quality cheap brand chain".

They do exist, I've got a couple rolls of some that don't seem too bad.... Maybe 5% under Oregon.

[350RRC]

I use Stihl full chisel chains on both my saws. I have no problems keeping them perfectly sharp using a file in a guide and the chains never come off the saws unless something else is wrong.

Something is wrong if filing the chain isn't working.

As Trout says do it often (every one or two fills).

File only from the soft (non shiny) side of the chain. If you're pushing against the chromed side it will dull the file in no time.

Don't pull the file back against the chrome side............. only put pressure on when you're pushing the file.

Use the same number of strokes on each side. You can make adjustments for uneven wear over time.

Most of the professionals do this on the job.

In my case chains last years, never start wanting to cut in circles and it is very rare to take them off the saw.

I do trim the rakers with a grinder coz I'm lazy, but not I'm recommending it.

Cutting about 10 tons of wood a year, gum and wattle, green and dry.

cheers, DL

[windsock]

I follow the Trout and 350RRC way and go with one sharpen to every two or three fills using the files. I use the husqvarna roller sharpening guide tool. I have a dedicated tree/firewood saw and a dedicated fencing/misc saw and have roller guide tools for sharpening each one. As these fit over the chain links themselves and move with the chain, I find them better than tools that clamp to the bar as the chains have lateral movement and this distorts angles when filing.

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51uihfP7d5L._AC_SL1024_.jpg
Amazon.com: Husqvarna Combination roller guide for 3/8" pitch chainsaw chain, Blue, 10 x 2 x 10 cm : Patio, Lawn & Garden (https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-Combination-Swedish-Roller-Chainsaw/dp/B0020ROXVI)

[trout1105]

As mentioned in the first post.....a file makes no impression on the teeth.
I could try and find a better quality file but it may be the hardness of the teeth on the cheap chain.

Colin

I bought a set of 3 files from Bunnings years ago and they are still doing a great job sharpening my chainsaws.
As metioned here make sure you are Not filing against the chromed bits and dont drag the file backwards over the work and your file will last a Verry long time[thumbsupbig]
When using a grinder on ANY cutting surface Chisel's, knives, axes, chainsaws etc. there is always a real danger of annealing the metal and ruining the cutting edge forever.

Use a file regulary and your chansaw AND your back will be forever grateful because there is nothing worse than trying to hack away with a blunt chainsaw.

[gromit]

I bought a set of 3 files from Bunnings years ago and they are still doing a great job sharpening my chainsaws.
As metioned here make sure you are Not filing against the chromed bits and dont drag the file backwards over the work and your file will last a Verry long time[thumbsupbig]
When using a grinder on ANY cutting surface Chisel's, knives, axes, chainsaws etc. there is always a real danger of annealing the metal and ruining the cutting edge forever.

Use a file regulary and your chansaw AND your back will be forever grateful because there is nothing worse than trying to hack away with a blunt chainsaw.

Files from Bunnings wouldn't mark the teeth.
Tried a known brand with the same result.

Maybe I'll just buy the cheap chains because they cut OK.

Colin

[rick130]

The Husky roller guides are good, and I use the old Carlton File-O-Plate to check the depth gauges/rakers I should've said "I used to..." [emoji23]

Files = Pferd, or at least something of a similar quality.
And file from the inside out, or you'll kill your file in short order.
The chrome on the cutter will tear the **** out the file teeth otherwise.

[theelms66]

And remember , file or sharpen to
Retain the gullet in the tooth.

[350RRC]

.................

And file from the inside out, or you'll kill your file in short order.
The chrome on the cutter will tear the **** out the file teeth otherwise.

I learnt that from you, many chainsaw threads ago.

Anyone remember mcrover?

cheers, DL

[Reddirt204]

I used to run 2 chains with an Ozito sharpener from Bunnings, worked surprisingly well for what it was.

Mid-season (the chains had done 2.5 seasons) I changed to a carbide tipped chain, was double the price of a normal chain (Ebay) not a cheap Chinese one, I have now run 7lt of fuel through the saw and haven't touched the chain, this is cutting dry hardwood (Jarrah) For me I wouldn't hesitate to buy another, yes you need special a diamond sharpener (I'll probably take it to the local saw shop and get them to sharpen it) I can cut a couple of 8x5 trailer loads without stopping and not worry about dirt or the odd rock....


I'm actually going to have to get another saw as the one I've got is heading for a catastrophic failure (cracking handle..) and I will definitely be going TCT chain again

cheers
Reddirt204

[350RRC]

I used to run 2 chains with an Ozito sharpener from Bunnings, worked surprisingly well for what it was.

Mid-season (the chains had done 2.5 seasons) I changed to a carbide tipped chain, was double the price of a normal chain (Ebay) not a cheap Chinese one, I have now run 7lt of fuel through the saw and haven't touched the chain, this is cutting dry hardwood (Jarrah) For me I wouldn't hesitate to buy another, yes you need special a diamond sharpener (I'll probably take it to the local saw shop and get them to sharpen it) I can cut a couple of 8x5 trailer loads without stopping and not worry about dirt or the odd rock....


I'm actually going to have to get another saw as the one I've got is heading for a catastrophic failure (cracking handle..) and I will definitely be going TCT chain again

cheers
Reddirt204

I looked into the same chains for the larger saw I have and the local saw joint quoted around $180 to sharpen it from memory.

DL

[Art]

I have an el cheapo Ozito sharper, $40 ex Bunnings. Excellent results after you figure out how to use it.

3 chains for $25, have you actually tried them? Are they any good?


That's what I got too. Works OK.

[Mickman]

I recommend one of these

2-in-1 File Holder - (https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Products/Chainsaws/Chainsaw-Accessories/21733-1649/2-in-1-File-Holder.aspx)

175328

[Phideaux]

I follow the Trout and 350RRC way and go with one sharpen to every two or three fills using the files. I use the husqvarna roller sharpening guide tool. I have a dedicated tree/firewood saw and a dedicated fencing/misc saw and have roller guide tools for sharpening each one. As these fit over the chain links themselves and move with the chain, I find them better than tools that clamp to the bar as the chains have lateral movement and this distorts angles when filing.

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51uihfP7d5L._AC_SL1024_.jpg
Amazon.com: Husqvarna Combination roller guide for 3/8" pitch chainsaw chain, Blue, 10 x 2 x 10 cm : Patio, Lawn & Garden (https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-Combination-Swedish-Roller-Chainsaw/dp/B0020ROXVI)


I use something similar to this - nothing like as complicated as the usual jig/rig - just something that sits over the bar and you lock the chain-brake and put the file in a slide-guide - then the usual - good quality file, cutting stroke to the sharp end, pushing 'up' slightly so that the tooth is sharp, particularly the corner, but you're sharpening 'the whole blade, not the tooth'. I also clamp the bar into a (wood lined or improvised) vise.
And it gets to near-new sharp; straight cuts, big chips.
(always put it away sharp!!)

I'd tried a number of solutions over the (40+) years - little whirling files (which wore out in no time) - pure-by-hand - complicated spindly rigs - this system (bought from Outdoor Power Centre Tuggeranong, not pricey, maybe $30?) and pure-by-hand (with improvised field vise) have given the best results - with this small, guided system winning by a notable margin.

[DeeJay]

As mentioned in the first post.....a file makes no impression on the teeth.
I could try and find a better quality file but it may be the hardness of the teeth on the cheap chain.

Colin

Drawing on my experiences an area manager for McCulloch chainsaws back in the 80's I am aware that under some circumstances, some chains will "self harden" making them difficult to sharpen. An electric sharpener can have a burning effect if pressed hard.
It's usually a cheaper chain that does it.

[BushDisco]

I have used this stihl file and guide for years on several saws. Used to use electric jobs but mostly rubbish, complex and no use in the Bush of course.

This does the job well, easy to use and I always store the saw with a sharpened chain. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211125/d5502b332c953b6606e702f8caba7ea7.jpg

[afb]

I recommend one of these

2-in-1 File Holder - (https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Products/Chainsaws/Chainsaw-Accessories/21733-1649/2-in-1-File-Holder.aspx)

175328

These are great, they file the depth gauge and sharpen simultaneously.

[gromit]

Drawing on my experiences an area manager for McCulloch chainsaws back in the 80's I am aware that under some circumstances, some chains will "self harden" making them difficult to sharpen. An electric sharpener can have a burning effect if pressed hard.
It's usually a cheaper chain that does it.

I think I'm just going to stick with cheap chains. As detailed in the first post mine is only used when branches drop or I need to do some pruning.

5 or 6 tanks of fuel and change the chain (if it's blunt), that will cover several years of usage.


Used to use electric jobs but mostly rubbish, complex and no use in the Bush of course.


There are a lot that are 12V DC and have clips to attach straight to your car battery.

Colin

[steveG]

I’ve been buying the Hurricane brand chains online from Jono and Jono. Pay about $50 for 3x 16” chains
The teeth are definitely harder and I’ve had the complete upper part of the tooth break off hitting crap in old framing timber.
With good chain it would typically just chip the edge.

Ive always just hand sharpened regularly but even good files hardly touch these cheap ones.
I bought a cheap $50 electric sharpener off eBay. Hardly a precision tool but it puts an edge back on the teeth so makes them useful again. It’s pretty much all plastic and I had to mount it to a block of wood so I could clamp it in the vice and get a half decent result.
If I was doing more volume of clean wood I’d go for decent chain and just keep them sharp, but for the miscellaneous crap I throw the saw at it it’s not worthwhile.

Steve

[murf]

I have used this stihl file and guide for years on several saws. Used to use electric jobs but mostly rubbish, complex and no use in the Bush of course.

This does the job well, easy to use and I always store the saw with a sharpened chain. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211125/d5502b332c953b6606e702f8caba7ea7.jpgThese are the best, Ive tried the other methods but these are so simple to use. It sharpens the cutting faces at the same time as It's reducing the height of the rakes. Simples!
Also when you purchase one of these Stihl tools you have to choose which size chain your using.

[Cerise]

I use a simple file and sharpen on a regular basis, Don't wait until the chain gets too blunt and starts to burn instead of cutting.
A file works just fine and there is no fiddly setup involved[thumbsupbig]

Remember the K.I.S.S principle[biggrin]

Yes, i'm the same. i use Stihl files in an angle guide, and after watching a couple of youtubes I realised how to do it right. After a couple of hours' work it may take 4-5 strokes ( pushing outwards only) per tooth to get it all ready for the next time. Maybe 1-2 files/ year, and i don't frind too much metal from the teeth either. It's a 5 minute job in a vice.

Grinders are probably great, but it's me that I won't trust with anything thsat complex and/or destrcuctive!

Mike

[gromit]

I’ve been buying the Hurricane brand chains online from Jono and Jono. Pay about $50 for 3x 16” chains
The teeth are definitely harder and I’ve had the complete upper part of the tooth break off hitting crap in old framing timber.
With good chain it would typically just chip the edge.

Ive always just hand sharpened regularly but even good files hardly touch these cheap ones.


Hi Steve,
Glad it's not just me, files just skidded over and didn't touch the teeth of the cheap chain.
I could buy 6 cheap chains for the cost of a cheap grinder and as my chainsaw is occasional use only I think that's what I'll probably do.

Colin

[Nicky]

I recommend one of these

2-in-1 File Holder - (https://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Products/Chainsaws/Chainsaw-Accessories/21733-1649/2-in-1-File-Holder.aspx)

175328

This Stihl tool is foolproof, trims Rakers and Cutting teeth at the same time so you don't mess up the design characteristics and ruin the chain. It has guide lines to get the correct holding angle.

[rm_rocky]

I looked into the same chains for the larger saw I have and the local saw joint quoted around $180 to sharpen it from memory.

DL

Going to a TC chain for me involved going down to a 18" bar and fitting a rim drive to my MS310 . Local Stihl shop charges 15 bucks to sharpen. It usually lasts a season of cutting, around 15 cu metres provided you keep it out of the dirt and don't hit rocks. I've just put in an 84 DL 3/8 .063 in to be sharpened . The local boys did say some places charge heaps to sharpen TC chains, trying to get a return on their expensive diamond sharpeners!

[Don 130]

Going to a TC chain for me involved going down to a 18" bar and fitting a rim drive to my MS310 . Local Stihl shop charges 15 bucks to sharpen. It usually lasts a season of cutting, around 15 cu metres provided you keep it out of the dirt and don't hit rocks. I've just put in an 84 DL 3/8 .063 in to be sharpened . The local boys did say some places charge heaps to sharpen TC chains, trying to get a return on their expensive diamond sharpeners!

You can get you own diamond disc for a sharpening machine for about $100.00.
Don.

[Rick1970]

I use a cheap chain grinder to get the tooth lengths back if they get to far out, but as someone said, they need a consistent technique. Sharpen with files and clamp on guide, and gauge for the rakers. Hammer in stump/bar clamp are great in the bush if no suitable vice available..... I turn the tooth face into a banana when trying to sharpen chasing the saw around on the ground. Quick touch up every tank, change chain if I hit a rock or the like.
After using a few different cheap chains, now usually stick with Sthil chains (3/8 LP, .325 & 3/8), lasting longer and I find them easier to sharpen.

[350RRC]

I use a cheap chain grinder to get the tooth lengths back if they get to far out, but as someone said, they need a consistent technique. ......................

I just do that by eye with a hand file............ if a tooth is a little longer than the rest it gets a couple of extra swipes each sharpen.

Quite happy that I can get the full life out of a chain with it stihl cutting dead straight these days.

DL

[DoubleChevron]

I'm hopeless with a hand file... but I reckon I still do a better job than the cheap sharpener I've got. This is the youtube videos I was watching when I was trying to figure out what I was doing. I still suck, but at least the old saw actually cuts now.

How to file a power saw (chain saw) - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0PMlqsj6D1I&list=PLMUje6I1l64lLH5_AD4XwrHQ9A-I2F1RM)

[loanrangie]

The cheap sharpeners remind of the mobile knife sharpeners that would frequent the restaurants i worked at,they would grind the **** out of the blades with no finesse at all. No way i was letting them near my expensive German blades with a bench grinder , i would always use my double sided stone and diamond coated steel.
Only done it a few times but definitely find it better using a file on chains.

[trout1105]

I have a set of butchering knives that are now more than 30 years old and they still have perfect edges on them because I have only ever used a stone and a steel to maintain the edge on them.
I also NEVER let anyone else touch them[biggrin]

Most of us that actually care for our cutting tools would NEVER even think about using a grinder on them.
Axes, chisels, chansaw blades are sharpened with a stone/file only, Use a grinder on a carbon steel cutting edge and you will destroy the integrity of the metal in a heartbeat.