Rear Hub

[d2dave]

Need a new rear hub for the D2. Genuine are no longer available and even if they were they are $800.

Can get Genuine from OS for $700 plus freight.

OEM are around $250 to $300 plus freight.

Can anyone advise if OEM are ok?

Non genuine can be purchased for about $130 but I have heard to steer clear of these.

[onebob]

Need a new rear hub for the D2. Genuine are no longer available and even if they were they are $800.

Can get Genuine from OS for $700 plus freight.

OEM are around $250 to $300 plus freight.

Can anyone advise if OEM are ok?

Non genuine can be purchased for about $130 but I have heard to steer clear of these.

Forum member Mario sells a good mid priced hub of European manufacture not Chinese. I’ve had 3 or 4 from him.

Tip: diffs can get pretty hot so check your breather hoses for restriction or blockages especially the on Rear axle. Look for kinks along the length and ingested crud at the end where it’s tucked up behind the passenger side rear wheel. I reckon it’s not really high enough - i will extend mine and run it forwards to the engine compartment.

[Bohica]

Need a new rear hub for the D2. Genuine are no longer available and even if they were they are $800.

Can get Genuine from OS for $700 plus freight.

OEM are around $250 to $300 plus freight.

Can anyone advise if OEM are ok?

Non genuine can be purchased for about $130 but I have heard to steer clear of these.

OEM are meant to be ok, are they OEM? I am after a front hub and the OEM is apparently in Taiwan. I have not found genuine even from OS.

[Tins]

It's a tough call. I've always trusted Mario and Heater, but sadly circumstances aren't favourable there.
If you follow Mike from Britrest you'll know that OEM is a lottery. Parts from mobs well known could be anything from Chinese, through Turkey, India, Spain right up to genuine LR, and you won't know until it arrives.

Choices are limited.

[Bohica]

The OEM being a lottery makes me think I could be replacing my front hub on a regular basis, unless I win the Lotto!

[Slunnie]

Need a new rear hub for the D2. Genuine are no longer available and even if they were they are $800.

Can get Genuine from OS for $700 plus freight.

OEM are around $250 to $300 plus freight.

Can anyone advise if OEM are ok?

Non genuine can be purchased for about $130 but I have heard to steer clear of these.

Do you know where were these available from? I think I'd rather cough up and know the hubs are good for the next 20 years or so.

How many km do original hubs last for?


It's a tough call. I've always trusted Mario and Heater, but sadly circumstances aren't favourable there.
If you follow Mike from Britrest you'll know that OEM is a lottery. Parts from mobs well known could be anything from Chinese, through Turkey, India, Spain right up to genuine LR, and you won't know until it arrives.

Choices are limited.

Do the Genuine ones run Timkin bearings? That may be a good question if OEM ones are ordered perhaps???

[Bohica]

MLR, South Melbourne can get a front hub in from the UK. $800+ and 4 to 6 weeks. I guess the same for the rear hub. I'd like to have a genuine one and not worry about it for 20 years, or for ever really.

[Slunnie]

OEM are meant to be ok, are they OEM? I am after a front hub and the OEM is apparently in Taiwan. I have not found genuine even from OS.

Maaaaybe here.... if they have stock?
TAY100060GEN - Genuine Hub and Sensor Assembly Front Discovery 2

(https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/tay100060-gen-genuine-hub-and-sensor-assembly-front-discovery-2.html)I've sent this mob a message to see if they also have fronts as they have genuine rears.
Wheel Bearing Hub & ABS Sensor Rear (Genuine) TAY100050 Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order. (https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/wheel-bearing-sensor-rear-genuine-tay100050-p-4639.html)

[discorevy]

Can anyone advise if OEM are ok?




Haven't had any failures so far using OEM , (Max on 1 car around 120 000km)


The OEM being a lottery makes me think I could be replacing my front hub on a regular basis, unless I win the Lotto!

Good that you'd keep the D2 even if you won lotto... so would I


Do you know where were these available from? I think I'd rather cough up and know the hubs are good for the next 20 years or so.

How many km do original hubs last for?



Do the Genuine ones run Timkin bearings? That may be a good question if OEM ones are ordered perhaps???

Normally 3-400 000 km depending on amount of towing , corrugations etc, or around double the life of D3/D4.
Supposedly ( not 100% sure) the OEM have timken bearings, definitely wabco sensors


Maaaaybe here.... if they have stock?
TAY100060GEN - Genuine Hub and Sensor Assembly Front Discovery 2

(https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/tay100060-gen-genuine-hub-and-sensor-assembly-front-discovery-2.html)I've sent this mob a message to see if they also have fronts as they have genuine rears.
Wheel Bearing Hub & ABS Sensor Rear (Genuine) TAY100050 Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order. (https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/wheel-bearing-sensor-rear-genuine-tay100050-p-4639.html)

If you're willing to reuse the front sensors you can order 4 X tay100050.

[V8Ian]

Can't new bearings be fitted to the existing hubs?

[Bohica]

Can't new bearings be fitted to the existing hubs?

That's what I am thinking.

[Bohica]

Haven't had any failures so far using OEM , (Max on 1 car around 120 000km)



Good that you'd keep the D2 even if you won lotto... so would I



I meant win the lotto on a OEM hub. My Timkin OEM hub lasted two and a bit years.

[Slunnie]

Normally 3-400 000 km depending on amount of towing , corrugations etc, or around double the life of D3/D4.
Supposedly ( not 100% sure) the OEM have timken bearings, definitely wabco sensors



If you're willing to reuse the front sensors you can order 4 X tay100050.

I'm at about 280k, but it has been certainly used during its like. I'd better prepare in that case. Thanks for this.

So the front and rear hubs are the same, just the sensor lead length is different between the part numbers? Thats really good to know, thanks!

[Slunnie]

I'm at about 280k, but it has been certainly used during its like. I'd better prepare in that case. Thanks for this.

So the front and rear hubs are the same, just the sensor lead length is different between the part numbers? Thats really good to know, thanks!

Ok, what I've been able to find out from a search.

The front and rear hubs are interchangable on the D2.
The front hub part has a longer ABS lead compared to the rear.
There is disagreement between if the front hub has an axle seal groove so it can be used in the rear - you may need to check.
As Discorevy says, the rears can be used up front if the front ABS sensor is swapped over and reused.

Really good to know! Thanks Discorevy

[Bohica]

Why would the front have a longer ABS cable than the rear? The front is closer to the ABS computer.

[onebob]

Why would the front have a longer ABS cable than the rear? The front is closer to the ABS computer.

Because the proximity of the connector socket at the end the loom is not the same when compared to the rear.

[Bohica]

Because the proximity of the connector socket at the end the loom is not the same when compared to the rear.
Doh. Sometimes I am slow!!

[d2dave]

I'm at about 280k, but it has been certainly used during its like. I'd better prepare in that case. Thanks for this.

So the front and rear hubs are the same, just the sensor lead length is different between the part numbers? Thats really good to know, thanks!

Mines on about 230000 Km and one is leaking.

[Slunnie]

Mines on about 230000 Km and one is leaking.

Thanks! I'm about 280k, I'm guessing it wont be long. I hope yours is an easy fix.

[Discosux]

Can't new bearings be fitted to the existing hubs?


That's what I am thinking.

me too, but obviously there's a reason.

would love to know why.

[Bohica]

me too, but obviously there's a reason.

would love to know why.

I am thinking something to do with the toothed (reluctance) ring.
Maybe the the outer bearing race is inside a lip and is impossible to remove. You push on the inner bearing race, destroy the bearing and the outer race is still there. Although with dry ice/acetone, it may shrink enough to remove. I am waiting for mine to arrive so I can have a good look. I'd love to repair the old buggered one with new quality bearings.

[lewy]

perhaps they can be rebuilt by someone with the machinery and know how, at the price these are is it worth having a trade in\exchange going.

[Bohica]

Theoretically, you need a press and a good quality bearing.

[d2dave]

Thanks! I'm about 280k, I'm guessing it wont be long. I hope yours is an easy fix.

Its a very easy job. I did one a couple of years ago for a friend

[Tins]

me too, but obviously there's a reason.

would love to know why.
Because the assembly takes far less time to install and the “mechanic” has to do nothing to do except put the correct setting on the torque wrench. Last time I did bearings on the Ford the assy was cheap and the advice on the nut was “rattle it hard”. I don’t know why they bother training people these days.

[Bohica]

The hub has arrived. It looks easier to press in the bearing(s) than remove.
I'll have a crack at dismantling the old one with a view to replace the bearings.

[d2dave]

The hub has arrived. It looks easier to press in the bearing(s) than remove.
I'll have a crack at dismantling the old one with a view to replace the bearings.

So what did you get and where from? I need to order one as mine is leaking.

Mine has started leaking whilst the car has been sitting on my hoist for the past six months, doing a far too long engine transplant.

[Bohica]

So what did you get and where from? I need to order one as mine is leaking.

Mine has started leaking whilst the car has been sitting on my hoist for the past six months, doing a far too long engine transplant.

ISLAND 4X4 UK. You need to order a hub nut as well.

[LyleC]

So I am in the process on changing my leaking Left rear hub.
I have a new hub from British4WD (in Tas) $233 + freight.
260,000 km on the D2 but the stake nut looks like it was reused so age/brand of old hub is unknown.
To my horror I found the stake nut was not bent in on the axle properly and barely tight.
The axle came out of the hub easily as I was tapping the hub off the diff housing.
I did have a slight 'cluck' sound many mornings when first backing out of the garage - maybe it was this axle spline clearance taking up.

Anyway my question to the experienced is: What did you use for loctite on the axle splines?

RAVE says Loctite 640. At $399 - $446 for 250ml that's not going to happen.
An alternative that the Blackwoods website pops up is Loctite 2760 at $65 for 50ml so only slightly less per litre but a smaller bottle.

I am a little worried that if the loctite wasn't right for the old hub, that may have allowed axle/hub movement and the nut to loosen, loose bearing pre-load and created the leak.
176523
RAVE says you need to press the axle out of the hub, which would be just to break the Loctite.
At the moment I'll be looking for a $65 bottle of 2760.
Interested in what everyone else has done, and how long it lasted.
Cheers