LR3 suspension compressor air fittings

[allagras]

Hi All
So i finally got round to redressing my compressor (original Hitachi) yesterday but run into a problem....
I had to cut the 2 main lines from the compressor as the push fits just would not budge but after fixing up the compressor itself i'm stuck as to how to reconnect the 2 hoses - inlet and exhaust air I believe - not the ones from the end of the dessicant can.

Looks like at least one of the lines has a small brass tube in the end that guides (?) it into the push fit.

Has anyone else faced this issue, and how did you solve it? I don't really want to pull the compressor apart again to pull out the snap fits if i can rejoin the pipes in some way. Any advice gratefully received.

And yes, I did try and make a video of the compressor removal which I will post once I've edited it

Thanks All
Grant

[101RRS]

When I removed my compressor a couple of years back I had the same issue and had to cut the pipes a couple of inches from the compressor. As you indicated these pipes are the air intake from the air filter up in the drivers side rear quarter and the compressor exhaust pipe which goes to the same location. Both are low pressure so dont need any special piping.

I just used some rubber fuel line of the appropriate size as a joiner to connect the short bit of pipe coming out of the compressor to the pipes already running under the car - works fine.

[Eric SDV6SE]

When I did mine, I used my shop compressor and the blower gun with a thin nozzle to blow out all around the compressor. Dirt gets jammed in the push fittings meaning that you can't press them in to release the collet and so the tube.

After blowing all the dirt out and gentle prising with a fine flat tipped trim removal tool, they undid fine. Re connecting cut lines, any for of vac tube g or rubber hose of the right ID will do.

[LRD414]

Or source a couple of quick connect air fittings

https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/f0f507630c171fb29baf1e839062c775.jpg

[allagras]

Hi guys

Thanks for the feedback. I managed to get it all back together and connected - just got sone 6 & 4mm steel pipe and pushed it into the hoses - had enough slack so just pushed them back into the snap fits. Will do for now until I can get some free time to replace the connectors.

However....system wont repressurize. I stupidly drained the air tank before I refitted the comp and now even tho the compressor runs about 5 mins it isn't pumping anything up...anyone got any ideas?

Thanks
Grant

[BradC]

A couple of things to look at :



The compressor is stuffed
There is a leak in the gallery (that could be between any valve block and the compressor)
The pressure sensor is stuffed
The exhaust valve is jammed open
There is a leak in the dryer

[allagras]

Thanks Brad

Given that all was reasonably well (albeit with a small leak somewhere) pre compressor redress, I'm going to check the exhaust valve first....that's the only thing I really messed with whilst removing the compressor...

G

[Eric SDV6SE]

Plus the air lines that you cut.....

[allagras]

Thanks all
Traced the issue to a jammed open Exhaust valve (as advised - ta) - so compressor now pumping.
I am getting air into the reservoir block now, but v slowly - compressor runs for 12 seconds then shuts off - and it isnt hot. If i switch the car off and restart, comp fires up again for 12s...going to take a long time to pump up at this rate - does this sopund right? I was expecting the pump to run longer and shut off if overheating...

[BradC]

Thanks all
Traced the issue to a jammed open Exhaust valve (as advised - ta) - so compressor now pumping.
I am getting air into the reservoir block now, but v slowly - compressor runs for 12 seconds then shuts off - and it isnt hot. If i switch the car off and restart, comp fires up again for 12s...going to take a long time to pump up at this rate - does this sopund right? I was expecting the pump to run longer and shut off if overheating...

No, that's not right. Have you got any fault codes? There are so many plausibility tests in the system to try and stop it lunching stuff, it is pretty specific about its fault codes.

With the Hitachi it should run until it's at pressure, or the head > 140C or the motor brush plate > 130C.
When I last emptied the entire system I let it run for 5 minutes then shut it off. Let it cool for half an hour and then finished the job. It probably took ~6.5-7 minutes of total run time to completely pump up the reservoir and lift the car to normal height.

Is it actually opening the reservoir valve? It could be pumping up the gallery and cutting out on the pressure limit, although I wouldn't expect that to take 12 seconds.

[allagras]

Hi
That's the thing - I can't tell if it is opening the valve...I stripped the block and blew out a load of old dessicant dust and reassembled.
I did check the solenoid and freed it up a bit but i don't have a handy 12v source to put across the solenoid itself to check operation, and my multimeter seems to have gone missing too, so I'm a bit stumped to check the pressure sensor resistance. Grrr - could do all of this if I was at work which is the really annoying bit

Anyway - thanks for the info - I'll see if my neighbour maybe has a multimeter
Is there any way of forcing the valve to open? I was also thinking about trying to connect the compressor directly to the inlet feed on the tank

[BradC]

The only way I can think to force the valve open is by putting 12V on it.
The sensor is ratiometric, so it gets 0V and 5V and spits out a voltage proportional to the pressure.

Not much you can do without a multi meter and scan tool. All the other tests I can think of really rely on being able to look at the error codes as you play with it.

Edit : I've just noticed you are in Perth. Whereabouts? There are people all over the place you might be able to get help from.

[gavinwibrow]

.

Edit : I've just noticed you are in Perth. Whereabouts? There are people all over the place you might be able to get help from.


x2 - I have a multimeter and a GapTool if you are anywhere near me - see Top RHS

This is one of the benefits of putting your suburb, not just city/state in your top right hand corner section of posts.

[101RRS]

Thanks all
Traced the issue to a jammed open Exhaust valve (as advised - ta) - so compressor now pumping.
I am getting air into the reservoir block now, but v slowly - compressor runs for 12 seconds then shuts off - and it isnt hot. If i switch the car off and restart, comp fires up again for 12s...going to take a long time to pump up at this rate - does this sopund right? I was expecting the pump to run longer and shut off if overheating...

Ok I had the same issue as you - the actual valve that exhausts air to the exhaust pipe is purely mechanical - once the pressure (controlled buy the central valve block) on the pump side gets to a certain pressure it pushes against the spring in the valve opening and letting the air out. I had the same issue and thankfully tapping it cleared it - I sheared off the hex top and it is now sealed up with super glue [bigwhistle]. So you can check it is exhausting by checking if air comes out the exhaust pipe when it farts - likewise if air is constantly coming out the exhaust valve has a blockage and is open.

The problem you describe "I am getting air into the reservoir block now, but v slowly - compressor runs for 12 seconds then shuts off - and it isnt hot. If i switch the car off and restart, comp fires up again for 12s...going to take a long time to pump up at this rate" sounds like you have blocked desiccant - the piston is having trouble pushing the air through the desiccant - if you read the codes you should have C1A20 Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir.

Also have you pulled apart the central valve block and cleaned every thing?

[allagras]

Hmm - ok - sounds good...
I pulled apart the valve block and blew out all the dust and cleaned it all and reassembled - no bother.

Nothing flowing out of exhaust at the mo - I do thing you are right with the dessicant. Its all new filters etc but i think that is OK if you are just 'topping up' the bags - think it is having a fit because of the dessicant. next step I guess - take the dessicant out and try without it.

Ive got the 12v to the compressor bypassed and running off my battery (im running the engine so i dont flatten it), and monitoring the compressor head temp with a thermocouple. Everything else is still connected to the loom.

I'll empty the dessicant can and see what happens

Cheers
G

[allagras]

And the saga continues...emptied the dessicant can - better pressure but still not filling the air reservoir as far as I can yell - I'm a bit surprised the little compressor could do that anyway.

Thinking about drilling out the bung in the other end of the tank and fitting a Nitto so i can use the compressor at work to fill the tank

Also, anyone knackered the head bolts - I seem to have stripped threads on 3 of 4 drillings so the bolts wont bite - if you've done this how did you fix it - I'm thinking of braxing in some ally rod then drilling and rethreading?

G

[BradC]

Thinking about drilling out the bung in the other end of the tank and fitting a Nitto so i can use the compressor at work to fill the tank

Don't do that. Just another place to leak.
The EAS system also runs at higher pressure than the average compressed air system. Mine pumps up to 246psi before the compressor kicks out.

If it's not pumping up, there is a problem. A work around will just lead to more pain.

Where are you? There are people all over the Perth area with diagnostic tools that could at least read the codes and give you an idea as to what is going on.

[101RRS]

Thinking about drilling out the bung in the other end of the tank and fitting a Nitto so i can use the compressor at work to fill the tank

You will not get the required pressure - your standard compressor is low volume but high pressure - about three times the pressure of a standard 12v tyre compressor and well above a 240v workshop compressor.

Have you had your codes read - that will point you in the right direction instead of flopping around in the dark.

[allagras]

Hi
I'm in Wanneroo.
I don't have a high end OBDII reader - I can read Engine but none of the other Disco computers.
Was trying to get one of the older readers from Bearmach but no funds at the mo (Xmas!!)

[gavinwibrow]

Hi
I'm in Wanneroo.
I don't have a high end OBDII reader - I can read Engine but none of the other Disco computers.
Was trying to get one of the older readers from Bearmach but no funds at the mo (Xmas!!)

Maybe pop down to Dave Dover in Wangara if no one comes forward?

[BradC]

Unless you get a better offer, if you are free between about 3 and 5 tomorrow I’m happy to drive up and plug my IID in.

[allagras]

That would be amazing Brad and much appreciated.
I knock of work at 2PM tomorrow for Xmas so will be home by 230.

I did have a quick chat to Dovers too - they basically told me im stuffed and were happy to sell me a new AMK and fit / program it for me LOL

[BradC]

I've not tried it on another car yet, but according to the manual we should be able to get faults and live values without having it registered to your VIN. That should do the job anyway.

PM sent.

[loanrangie]

I've not tried it on another car yet, but according to the manual we should be able to get faults and live values without having it registered to your VIN. That should do the job anyway.

PM sent.Yes you can read and clear codes on another vehicle.