Looking to Buy a RRS

[Andych]

Hi all... have been a member for years but sadly havent had a LR for a while. Previously had an early Disco Diesel then a Disco Mk2 7 seat V8 and loved both of them.
We are now looking at buying a RRS 2009 V6 with 170K on the clock. We havent seen it in person yet as it is in Sydney and we are in Wodonga...thinking of going up next week.

I have looked at the build specs via the VIN and it looks to be a reasonable spec.. Memory seats with powered steering column, Full colour Nav, no sunroof and fitted with 21 inch Autobiography wheels.
The current owner hasnt had it long and is only selling it as he now has a Company Car... he said there is Service History (probably just the service book) and as far as he knows.. it hasnt had the Timing Belt etc done.
I am happy to do the Timing belt and fuel pump belt myself if they havent been done.
My question is.... what else should I be looking at when I do go up to have a good look... obviously any faults coming up but is there an easy way to check lower control arms etc and anything specific I should check on the engine.

The car looks to be very clean, there is no towbar on it but the VIN decode says it was fitted with the towpack, not sure if that was just how they coame into Australia or not.
I am also not sure how specced up the ICE is, the decode says as shown below plus plenty more... All help and advice appreciated :)
The Stereo doesnty really worry me as I would be planning on putting in an Apple CarPlay compatible unit with Rear Camera connectivity almost straight away anyway.

"In Car Entertainment / Speakers - Hi ICE Branded [025GP]; Navigation Mapping Disc DVD - Australian Mapping DVD Disc [025HE]; Instrument Display Language - English [038AY]; Park Distance Control Sensor Rear - Park Distance Control Sensor Rear"In Car Entertainment / Speakers - Hi ICE Branded [025GP]; Navigation Mapping Disc DVD - Australian Mapping DVD Disc [025HE]; Instrument Display Language - English [038AY]; Park Distance Control Sensor Rear - Park Distance Control Sensor Rear
CD Player - Integrated MOST 6 CD

[haydent]

Personally we just got the (i believe simpler) TDV8 variant (only available in RR), and highly highly recommend it over v6. It is so much fun to drive and listen to. Has timing chains and stronger crank than the V6 variant. Also no rear fuel pump with timed belt, which generally is regarded as a take the body off job. We get 8.7L/100 on the highway. and 640 Nm for towing !

Re the tow hitch, it is removable, so maybe in the boot or garage or lost/sold by some owner. You can also get an aftermarket mitch hitch or clone that gives you a higher tow point as factory is quite low. Also you can get after market 18" alloys to fit higher profile tyres if wanted, eg tuffant . Factory 20" are very prone to gutter damage as no tyre side wall to protect them. If interested check if the car was fitted with 6 pot brembo brake option as the 18 rims wont fit in this case.

Re the lower control arms, its a fairly easy diy fix, you just need a 300Nm capable torque wrench, a mechanical inspection would hopefully pick this up.

They are essentially a D3/4 with different body shape, with much shared, thus the pinned topic to try the d3/4 forums instead, thus a d3/4 bull bar can be be fitted, though there is much debate about ADR compliance and insurance coverage, it just needs to be ok (or not) by your company, or there are custom manufacturers that can certify their products.

2009/2010 MY10 was a facelift year, so keep that in mind as the interior change is significant such as surround cameras, but you will pay more. Essentially D3 vs D4 interior and accessories. That being said the you would still likely want to upgrade for apple/android car.

[rar110]

I agree with the above. 2010 was a nice upgrade and the last of the tdv8 3.6.

There are plenty of tdv6s, happily running around trouble free. But when one goes pop it seems pretty catastrophic.

There are quite a few expenses that could come up, or may not for a while. As an example, I maintain my 2007 L322 pretty well and in the last 6 mths a whole bunch of things needed doing costing $7-8k. A big chunk of that was replacing thermostat housing and all coolant hoses.

[zilch]

check when / if the transmission fluid has been changed, at that age it should have been done at least once, and
you may need to factor another fluid change for the vehicle before it hits 200K Km's

We have had a TDv6 3.0 MY10.5 RRS from new, great vehicle, done many off road trips, but there is always that
underlying nag whether the crank will turn to chocolate, so its now used mostly locally and the touring is left to
our new (ish) Defender

[mtb_gary]

After many years of p38a ownership including a host of modifications including lift kit and bull bar the car was sold just prior to a separation but I'm now also in the market for a TDv8 RRS. I'm looking at one tomorrow night here in Perth with 220k on the clock, ultimately for towing a 2.5t caravan and a lot of touring mainly on bitumen.. Apparently a very small oil leak from a rocker cover (I will be investigating further). What are the signs to look for for a turbo on the way out. I suspect all suspension bushes will need replacing and potentially air springs as well as all fluids...

[haydent]

youll find its very hard to really see or get to much of anything of the major engine components. as with any used car regardless of how well you look into it there will still be risk considering the limitations of such investigation on someone else's car.

one problem i found only after purchase, was that i wasnt able to get it out on a highway and up to 100kmh as was a rushed purchase and it lived in inner sydney. its a steering wheel wobble on braking that im still to work out.

[haydent]

ultimately for towing a 2.5t caravan

We got ours for more van towing grunt. It doesnt even notice it.

we have 2-2.5T 19ft van too, and average 16L/100km , though pulling up the great dividing i even touched 50L/100km at one point instantaneous!

without the van we average about 9L/100km

[mtb_gary]

After many years of p38a ownership including a host of modifications including lift kit and bull bar the car was sold just prior to a separation but I'm now also in the market for a TDv8 RRS. I'm looking at one tomorrow night here in Perth with 220k on the clock, ultimately for towing a 2.5t caravan and a lot of touring mainly on bitumen.. Apparently a very small oil leak from a rocker cover (I will be investigating further). What are the signs to look for for a turbo on the way out. I suspect all suspension bushes will need replacing and potentially air springs as well as all fluids...
So I went and had a look at the RRS.....very disappointed! I think there was more engine oil on the underside of the car than in the sump plus the dash had been absolutely butchered fitting an android display etc. etc. Needless to say it was a walk away decision. Maybe the next one?

[shack]

So I went and had a look at the RRS.....very disappointed! I think there was more engine oil on the underside of the car than in the sump plus the dash had been absolutely butchered fitting an android display etc. etc. Needless to say it was a walk away decision. Maybe the next one?Some people make you wonder...

[Pedro_The_Swift]

youll find its very hard to really see or get to much of anything of the major engine components. as with any used car regardless of how well you look into it there will still be risk considering the limitations of such investigation on someone else's car.

one problem i found only after purchase, was that i wasnt able to get it out on a highway and up to 100kmh as was a rushed purchase and it lived in inner sydney. its a steering wheel wobble on braking that im still to work out.

could be warped discs, my steering vibration ended up being the REARS,, so dont just automatically assume its always the fronts that warp...

[haydent]

was it a vibration or wobble ?

[haydent]

could be warped discs, my steering vibration ended up being the REARS,, so dont just automatically assume its always the fronts that warp...

getting front discs skimmed for $50 total fixed it !!

[mtb_gary]

OK, so I bought a 2007 RRS TDV8 (complete with sunroof, new tyres, roof racks, spare rear air bags, spare front grille and side vents and a couple of months worth of rego left on it) it's going to need some work but the turbo's were replaced around 20,000 k's ago but the transmission is slipping. It was bought at very cheap price ($6k) with knowledge of the transmission fault. I have ordered a copy of 4Dscan tool from RSW to help diagnose the problem. The body is still in a good straight condition and the EAS appears to be working correctly.
Today was spent cleaning out the back of the car where little kids have left their food scraps, toys, wrappers etc but all good now [biggrin].

Tomorrow could be a day of rest [bigwhistle]

[DiscoDB]

Nice, Gary!

At that price, well worth putting in a fully recondition transmission as well.

[haydent]

Nice, Gary!

At that price, well worth putting in a fully recondition transmission as well.

probably what will be needed if you arent up for dismantling it yourself, as id be pretty confident they tried changing fluid and filter.