D4 21.5 inch LED Mounting Question

[gavinwibrow]

Haste maketh waste

I scored a 21.5 inch Stedi SK1K LED bar for Xmas, along with their numberplate mounting bracket.

Now I know why there are so many different approaches.

It transpires that to make the unit reasonably tamper-proof, the numberplate bracket needs to be drilled/fixed into something strong (metal) behind.
I spent 15 minutes undoing, then gave up for the moment - too hot he says.

So any bright ideas from the wise?

I'd actually like the keep the numberplate bracket if I can fix it in without having to pull too much of the front apart.

[loanrangie]

What about a length of steel flat bar with either nutserts or nuts welded to it and fit it behind ?

[chuck]

I think Autospark in Osborne Park make brackets that come out of the bottom of the grill for a D4.

Might be easier than reinforcing bumper bracket.

[jwb]

I'm looking to do the same fitment. The through the grill mounting is more expensive than a lot of the lights but looks good quality.
Think I will try and put some reinforcement behind the bumper option.
My usage will be primarily highway cruising not offroad corrugations.

[DiscoJeffster]

I'm looking to do the same fitment. The through the grill mounting is more expensive than a lot of the lights but looks good quality.
Think I will try and put some reinforcement behind the bumper option.
My usage will be primarily highway cruising not offroad corrugations.

Nothing worse than poorly mounted spotlights flickering when they’re not mounted solid enough and vibrating over terrain. I don’t think the mount via the number plate will be sufficient for such a large light. I guess you’ll find out

[gavinwibrow]

I think Autospark in Osborne Park make brackets that come out of the bottom of the grill for a D4.

Might be easier than reinforcing bumper bracket.


I might have to try a modded copy of the Autospark version with slightly thicker steel. Only problem is I've not long ago made up a flywire type mesh fitted just inside the grill, which would then require a pair of slits cut into the mesh.

It strikes me that no matter what approach you take for through the grill mounting, you will have to demount/remove the LED bar or spots before you can get the grill off.

I had a quick look at what is involved in using the number plate bar, and it looks like an 'orrible job toget enough panels off to make the plate rigid enough fixed, especially not knowing just what is behind that will provide the rigidity.

I feel like a trip to DazzaTD5 is on the cards to pick his brains and find out just how much dismantling is required for a rigid fix and what if any affect it would have on other jobs like body off.


Also, there don't appear to be many "proper" options for anti-theft using the numberplate option apart from the various specialty nuts/bolts.

[DiscoJeffster]

I might have to try a modded copy of the Autospark version with slightly thicker steel. Only problem is I've not long ago made up a flywire type mesh fitted just inside the grill, which would then require a pair of slits cut into the mesh.

It strikes me that no matter what approach you take for through the grill mounting, you will have to demount/remove the LED bar or spots before you can get the grill off.

I had a quick look at what is involved in using the number plate bar, and it looks like an 'orrible job toget enough panels off to make the plate rigid enough fixed, especially not knowing just what is behind that will provide the rigidity.

I feel like a trip to DazzaTD5 is on the cards to pick his brains and find out just how much dismantling is required for a rigid fix and what if any affect it would have on other jobs like body off.

I made my own copy of the Autospark job using some thick steel I welded. Worked perfectly fine for about $30 but yes, need to remove lights to get grill off. I moved to a roof top bar as I had a Rhino Pioneer platform.

[Tombie]

I’d be removing that mesh. It actually has a serious impediment on air flow. Worse than just letting a few bugs into the radiator to be washed out later.

[gavinwibrow]

I’d be removing that mesh. It actually has a serious impediment on air flow. Worse than just letting a few bugs into the radiator to be washed out later.


Actually Mike - No!

I towed the brick about 1,000 km recently with a couple of days in the high 30's and the coolant temps stayed in the normal range (on GapTool, not that poxy binnacle version). I think the highest was a momentary 98 chasing up one of our few decent hills here, so very impressed that it has made very little difference.

I like being able to easily remove the 4 clips and take off the grill with mesh attached behind for a brush, blow or spray cleanup.

[Tombie]

Actually Mike - No!

I towed the brick about 1,000 km recently with a couple of days in the high 30's and the coolant temps stayed in the normal range (on GapTool, not that poxy binnacle version). I think the highest was a momentary 98 chasing up one of our few decent hills here, so very impressed that it has made very little difference.

I like being able to easily remove the 4 clips and take off the grill with mesh attached behind for a brush, blow or spray cleanup.

Temps will be the same in the engine, however the cooling system will be working harder- I can guarantee it - I’ve tested with thermocouples on several vehicles.

Fans will be running harder/longer.
Radiators will be under height thermal load, same for hoses.

Same can be shown when driving lights are fitted, cooling system can load up with no obvious change to engine temp.

[ramblingboy42]

interesting but not surprised to find aux light mounting options a problem on the disco.

I had similar problems on my ranger and some of my problem was removed by a bird strike which broke one side of my grill , which allowed me to cut and remove the other side giving access to pressed metal panel, to which I fitted a pair of fingers to mount the light to.

this proved unsatisfactory and the light flickered (shook) on any surface. I made stronger fingers and same thing and realised it was the pressed metal panel flexing.

I searched my shed and found a lovely piece of 50 x 75 x 6mm ally angle about 250mm long which I predrilled for the light mounts and screwed to the steel panel

this did the trick fortunately and has remained in situ for about 5yrs or ten trips into SA desert. I have since fitted a more powerful light above the cabin. to supplement the little led bar....I now have 1 lux at about 500mtrs.....I just cannot see why anyone , including truck drivers, could possibly want a bigger light halo than this small combination produces. anyway happy now.

but getting back to the thread , there was no way apart from a major front body pull down to get in , over or under the grille area to fit the little 18w led bar.