Setting up D4 with the lot!

[WabiSabi]

Howdy all

I’m setting up my 2010 D4 so we can tow our new Patriot Camper X1 on some big trips this year. I’ve obviously been trawling here for awhile and now have a solid list of what I’m planning on doing over the next month. Wondering if anyone has any comments, suggestions, criticisms or bits for sale! I find this forum invaluable and so wanted to put it out to you all for feed back.

Current set up
Rhino large platform with backbone
Traxide dual battery system with a couple of Bluetooth BM2’s for monitoring.

On order I have the following which I’ll fit off when they arrive:
Redarc Tow Pro Elite v3
Front Runner ladder
Recovery Tow bar (Mitch Hitch unavailable till mid feb)

The rest of my list is:
Tuff Ant 18” wheels
K02 265/65/18 or Coopers?
Safari Snorkel
APT under gear protection - looking at the full kit. Rocksliders/Compressor Guard/Front Guard/Engine Sump/Transmission/Lower Front Control Arms.
Rigidig swing away spare tyre arm
LLAMS
Maxtrax x 4
Garmen inReach satellite communicator
UHF GME XRS Connect
Air compressor ARB or TGM pro (mounted onboard)
Lightbar, spots and side lights?
Awning?
Explorer Canvas seat covers (mycustomcar made to order)
ARB Bullbar (or discrete winch?)
Winch?

That’s about as far as I have got so far.

Hoping this might become an up to date thread for others looking to get their D4’s out into the wild and I’ll likely update a long the way as I fit things off.

All ideas and thoughts welcome and thank you!

[DieselLSE]

How many people travelling in the D4?

[scarry]

Cross Coopers off the list.Not many good reports on them.
Everyone has different ideas about tyres,just make sure they have a reasonably high load rating,are in good condition,and AT should be fine.
I have BFG,no problems,except they will drone around the 70 Km/hr mark.

No long range fuel tank,so do you really need the swing arm?Second spare if you need one may fit on roof,or elsewhere.I used to strap ours to the cargo barrier,that’s if you have one.
I find the swing arm a nuisance,but that is probably just me.[biggrin]

[WabiSabi]

How many people travelling in the D4?
2 Adults and 3 kids.

[WabiSabi]

Cross Coopers off the list.Not many good reports on them.
Everyone has different ideas about tyres,just make sure they have a reasonably high load rating,are in good condition,and AT should be fine.
I have BFG,no problems,except they will drone around the 70 Km/hr mark.

No long range fuel tank,so do you really need the swing arm?Second spare if you need one may fit on roof,or elsewhere.I used to strap ours to the cargo barrier,that’s if you have one.
I find the swing arm a nuisance,but that is probably just me.[biggrin]

Coopers now crossed off!

Have thought a long range tank would be good. Currently the mechanism for the spare wheel isn’t working as a repairer over wound it with a drill. Also swing away gives the option for 2 spares.

And yeah I can imagine the annoyance of always needing to swing it away to get the back open, that’s a concern.

Thanks !

[John_D4]

IMHO I prefer Falkens. Good wear, relatively quiet, and I like how they feel off-road. I’m running 285 60 18 on my D4 with no suspension mods

[simonmelb]

Remember to check weights before you buy anything. That’s a fair bit of weight to add with 5 people on board.

Less is more when it comes to remote travel 😊

[WabiSabi]

IMHO I prefer Falkens. Good wear, relatively quiet, and I like how they feel off-road. I’m running 285 60 18 (tel:285 60 18) on my D4 with no suspension mods

Falkens are on the list and have now moved up a notch. It’s between K02’s and Falkens now.

Thanks

[WabiSabi]

Remember to check weights before you buy anything. That’s a fair bit of weight to add with 5 people on board.

Less is more when it comes to remote travel 😊

Maybe I’ll cut down on some of the undercarriage protection? We are a thin family so we have that going for us!

Was thinking about a large waterproof cargo bag on the roof with the surfboards next to it for the beach trips. Less weight than a box and better aerodynamics, good to throw wetsuits and water gear into.

Thanks

[gofish]

Sidesteps/sliders ?

[WabiSabi]

Sidesteps/sliders ?

Yeah got the APT rock sliders on the list there.

Cheers

[gofish]

Yeah got the APT rock sliders on the list there.

Cheers

Sorry missed that. Another vote for the Falkens. I'm really impressed so far.

[WabiSabi]

Sorry missed that. Another vote for the Falkens. I'm really impressed so far.

Ok Falkens are in the lead! Thanks

[Odysseyman]

Hi

I am offering these thoughts as constructive and pragmatic considerations.

Watch your rear axle loading in particular with all that gear. The weight on your towball, for starters, translates to about one third more on your rear axle. i.e. 150kg on the ball will mean about 220kg on the rear axle. With all the gear you’re talking about my hunch is you’ll be quite a bit over on your rear axle. (Ask me how I know)

I struggle with the rationale for a long range tank…. There are very few circumstances where I haven’t been able to buy fuel within the usual touring range of the standard tank. When towing our camper we have a range of about 450km. On any road/track where you will need to carry extra fuel you will need even more than the long range tank will provide, thereby compounding your weight problem in my view. We drove in to East Arnhem Land, for example, with only one jerry can of fuel and did it comfortably.

Similarly, unless you are planning to drive in water over the top of your wheels I wouldn’t bother with a snorkel. I believe they don’t actually provide anything extra regarding air quality and if you plan to go in water deeper than the position of the standard air intake then you will be risking much more than a drowned motor.

Same goes for the winch, the only time they ever seem to get used is to pull somebody else out. Had one on a previous vehicle and used it 3 times for that very reason. You’ll also need to operate it every couple of weeks or so in order to keep the gearbox lubricated, so when you really need it, it doesn’t go bang. I would, however, carry at least 4 Maxtrax and a long handled shovel (or two if you’ve got kids who can help!)

We have travelled many parts of Australia without any of that gear and without issue. Just save your money, get out and enjoy the country with your kids.

cheers
David 😁😁

[John_D4]

I agree with David

[WabiSabi]

Hi

I am offering these thoughts as constructive and pragmatic considerations.

Watch your rear axle loading in particular with all that gear. The weight on your towball, for starters, translates to about one third more on your rear axle. i.e. 150kg on the ball will mean about 220kg on the rear axle. With all the gear you’re talking about my hunch is you’ll be quite a bit over on your rear axle. (Ask me how I know)

I struggle with the rationale for a long range tank…. There are very few circumstances where I haven’t been able to buy fuel within the usual touring range of the standard tank. When towing our camper we have a range of about 450km. On any road/track where you will need to carry extra fuel you will need even more than the long range tank will provide, thereby compounding your weight problem in my view. We drove in to East Arnhem Land, for example, with only one jerry can of fuel and did it comfortably.

Similarly, unless you are planning to drive in water over the top of your wheels I wouldn’t bother with a snorkel. I believe they don’t actually provide anything extra regarding air quality and if you plan to go in water deeper than the position of the standard air intake then you will be risking much more than a drowned motor.

Same goes for the winch, the only time they ever seem to get used is to pull somebody else out. Had one on a previous vehicle and used it 3 times for that very reason. You’ll also need to operate it every couple of weeks or so in order to keep the gearbox lubricated, so when you really need it, it doesn’t go bang. I would, however, carry at least 4 Maxtrax and a long handled shovel (or two if you’ve got kids who can help!)

We have travelled many parts of Australia without any of that gear and without issue. Just save your money, get out and enjoy the country with your kids.

cheers
David 😁😁

Terrific advice David thanks.

Bullbar and winch have been on the bottom of my list along with the long range tank. I’ll leave them off for now and perhaps reduce some of the undercarriage protection to just the air compressor, front guard and maybe the rocksliders/step.

Cheers.

[Odysseyman]

Terrific advice David thanks.

Bullbar and winch have been on the bottom of my list along with the long range tank. I’ll leave them off for now and perhaps reduce some of the undercarriage protection to just the air compressor, front guard and maybe the rocksliders/step.

Cheers.

yes, I’m happy to admit I wasted my money on the rock sliders…

[ATH]

Good advice re the bull bar and winch. The only time we hit a little roo was moons ago when driving our then Datsun. No damage at all as it was small and went underneath. No damage to the car that is. :) Never needed a winch either and I've been stuck a few times but have had willing helpers along and I thank them.
I met a bloke in Fowlers Bay a couple of years with an aged 130 ute with crumbled panels all along the sides but the bull bar etc were not damaged. He reckoned the roos only ever ran into him not him running into them. :)
New vehicle coming up soon and neither bar or winch are on the list of extras.
AlanH.

[WabiSabi]

Good advice re the bull bar and winch. The only time we hit a little roo was moons ago when driving our then Datsun. No damage at all as it was small and went underneath. No damage to the car that is. :) Never needed a winch either and I've been stuck a few times but have had willing helpers along and I thank them.
I met a bloke in Fowlers Bay a couple of years with an aged 130 ute with crumbled panels all along the sides but the bull bar etc were not damaged. He reckoned the roos only ever ran into him not him running into them. :)
New vehicle coming up soon and neither bar or winch are on the list of extras.
AlanH.

Thanks Alan, solid advice.

[jh972]

ok, my 2 cents worth.
I'd put Coopers back on the list for consideration. I know many don't like them, sometimes with good reason, but my experience has been opposite. I've done many miles on tracks, not roads, without problem, and with less puncture problem than others and better traction the others. But I'm sure others are just as good.
Agree no winch & no bull bar. With kids you're less likely to travel at night, so less roo problem. Than brings up why you need so much extra lighting. Which lights are in the D4?
And long range tank? Depends where you're going. If mainly on roads then probably don't need and extra jerry cans will suffice. Also the weight will be in the wrong place, but still, I wish I had one..
I don't agree that a snorkel is not necessary. It definitely will supply cleaner air on dust roads, and if you hit any bull dust it's a no brainer. You likely won't need it for water, but a D4 will easily go through water deep enough to make a snorkel give you peace of mind at least.
Don't get where 150 ball weight adds 220 to rear axle load though. That would mean it takes 70 off the front axle. Maths doesn't seem right but I do agree that weight will be your problem. Consider putting extra spare on trailer, rather than on swing away carrier.
But what a great build & what a great adventure coming.. Good luck.

[Numb Thumbs]

As has been said, WEIGHT. Weigh the vehicle now - total weight and the weight on the front and rear axles. The rear axle is normally the problem area. If you are proved to be over weight, the insurance company will wave bye bye and the police can become very interested.

As has been pointed out, ball weight applies more weight to the rear axle than the simple number of kilos and takes weight off the front axle. Usually multiplying the ball weight by 1.4 will give you a good idea of the actual weight added to the rear axle. Many camper trailers have horrendous ball loads when you load them up, 300 kg or more. A steel rear bar with wheel carrier plus spare wheel will also add more weight to the rear axle than the actual weight of the combination. And you have to open it every time you want to open the boot...

Roof loads are another area people conveniently ignore - and then the car rolls or the roof rack comes off all together. Many manufacturers have different roof loading for their racks depending upon whether you are driving on bitumen or dirt - yes, dirt roads, not black diamond tracks... Rhino are now infamous for this.

Before:


https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/hh78/drj153/.highres/overload_zpsjrekzily.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/drj153/p/32b0eecc-0aad-4277-a965-62364bb652a3)



After:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/hh78/drj153/.highres/capsized_zpsacmdowjl.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/drj153/p/c212548a-9829-4860-902c-a91f9895ceb2)

Slightly overloaded? Two motor bikes and at least six jerry cans...

Try to only fit and take what you really need, not what YouTube gurus tell you that you must have.

Keep it light.

Cheers
Numb Thumbs ;)

PS I'm in Melbourne and I try to weigh my axles and camper each time I go away. Luckily we have free, 24/7 weighbridges on our main highway out of Melbourne, provided by Vicroads. Very handy!

[Vinnie]

Hi,

I agree with David and Alan on their advice. I however am a fan of having a bullbar, but in saying that bullbars for your vehicle are ridiculous in price and your money will be far better spent on a good quality set of driving lights/light bar that will give you enough forward vision that you will see an animal/hazard well before you get to it and be able to slow/stop the D4 in plenty of time (obviously for day driving you'll be fine). Unless you plan on using the vehicle for some extreme rock climbing rock sliders won't be needed. Be careful with the roof rack, there is an extremely popular Rhino rack that looks cool but is as useful as boobs on a bull! There are some racks out there that once you install them you can legally carry about 25 kg's and that's it and if you overload one and have an issue/accident your insurance company will wipe you as quick as look at you, so just make sure you do plenty of research on racks and their carrying capacity and the vehicle's roof load rating. But I hope you enjoy getting out there with your family, you'll have a ball.

Cheers,

Vinnie

[woodsy]

Can recommend the Wetseat full seat covers for front and 2nd row and console cover . Sydney based company , makes them to order with choice of various stitching colours . Perfect fit and very durable .
Also a gadget called a Scrunnel ( threaded plastic funnel ) from a qld company for about $35-40. Makes fueling up from a jerry can easier .
Yellow 20 litre diesel plastic jerry can from Bunnings for about $20 instead of a long range tank .
Kings round Osram driving lights . Paid about $180 for a pair for the 7” diameter . Great value and no issues after 2 years so far and good light output for the price .
Labtronx Stainless UHF aerial bracket ( fits on LH or Rh of bonnet so doesn’t block front vision) was about $66 each from memory .
My 2 c worth

[woodsy]

Forgot to add to last post :-
bought a non genuine spare wheel winch for about $80 from a Melbourne based company off e bay about a year ago after wrecking the old one when I tried to wind it up with out any weight hanging off the cable when I had new tyres fitted . Cable became tanged on locked up . Be warned keep tension on the cable or keep a tyre / rim weight on it or the cable will become jammed .
Also tuff ant sell a round bottle jack to chassis adapter . Round disc with a pin / lug which locates in to holes on the chassis . Original oem scissor jack is crap so need to carry / buy a decent bottle jack with a high lift capacity plus a few pieces of 100 x 100 hard wood to rest the jack on . Suggest mark the chassis jacking points with yellow paint .
Tuff ant also sell a wind down winch adapter ( uses a 1/4 inch drive extension bar needs to be bought separately from Repco etc ) . So can use the oem spare wheel winch with out having to unpack the boot .
Can buy both tuff ant products above as a package deal .
Regards Woodsy

[Ghost-Who-Walks]

x2 for agreeing with Alan and David! [bigsmile1]

Less is generally more, and most of those items would rarely (if ever) get used.
I have a bullbar and snorkel, which mostly give me peace of mind. The snorkel has only been 'used' once (crossing Nolan's Brook on OTT at pretty high levels).
Bull bar has only been used to protect the vehicle from scrapes in the carpark - although I always feel better driving at night with the bull bar.

Also a fan of the Coopers - I have had at least 3 sets of the Zeon LTZ's (19") and love them. The only downside is the expense. So add them back onto your list if you want good tyres.
I'm currently 2/3 of the way through a set of Maxxis AT980's. Have been really impressed with them so far (and ~$100 ea cheaper than the Coopers).
Do a search on threads for tyres - there are so many comments and observations from forum members - it's worth reading up more detail rather than this thread becoming another 'tyre thread'.

As had been pointed out, you actually need very little above the standard discovery fitout, to head into the outback for extended periods.

A Gap IIDTool is a must - I would definitely put this at the top of your list...

As has been said, just get out there and enjoy the journey with the family (and spend less time/effort/$$'s on how the car is setup!)...

[ATH]

I did have a LR tank on 1 of our 3 Defenders (Yes we're truly mad :) ) but haven't with the D4 just put 2 jerries up top and drained fuel out if necessary via hose straight into tank. Only done that once as haven't needed to. I see people at the local servo filling heaps of jerries and wonder why because you can travel a long way here towards remote areas and the fuel price doesn't vary much. Better to keep the weight down I think then fill up before you leave civilisation..... :) Then of course once you're off the beaten track it gets real pricey but if you want it you pay for it.
I do like a snorkel though as dust is the real killer of machinery and if I can keep it away from my engine I will. When I worked in mines we used to change air filters on trucks, dozers etc twice each shift in some areas which were real bad.
I did have one of those oiled filters on a D1 but would never bother again. Filthy job cleaning them and I take a spare filter on every extended trip and bang out excess dust if it needs changing which removes most and will last until you get back somewhere it can be cleaned properly.
Enjoy the travels.
AlanH.

[BigJim]

I have rock slides on my D3 and they do help but have got into a few situations were ive had to jump on them to get the doors open as they have bent up. Also my mate does a great hidden winch upgrade for D3 and D4.

[Konradical]

Il jump in here with our D4 set up..

All the APT body gear - every bit has earnt its place also, including the sliders, which also double for the kids getting in and out.

Front runner roof rack and ladder.

Long range tank.

LR raised air intake.

TuffAnt 18" wheels - now alloy, but were steel.

Engle fridge with the 20l extender.

Traxide dual batt.

Redarc tow something (can't remember which one, was literally the first thing done to the car).

Mitch Hitch.

Darch awning.

iCom CB with the previously mentioned stainless steel mount on the RH side of bonnet next to the RAI.

The rest of the car is basically standard. Really haven't found a need to add anything else and other than the want for a winch in a hidden mount, the car does what we need it to do.

Each mod/accessory added has a function that has helped us complete a trip or even helps in day to day stuff. The Front Runner rack is fantastic, especially with all the different mounts and storage options available. The best mount for us is the under rack table mount. Means we can take a table anywhere and get it out easily without straps or taking up space in the car. The ladder is one of the most used items on the car!

The long range tank was initially fitted in the lead up to our Canning trip, but has actually been useful since. Normal commuting sees me fill up every three weeks to a month, or if fuel is cheaper, take advantage.

The RAI has been great. I haven't had to swap a air filter on a trip yet, even though I carry a spare just in case. I deliberately don't go out of my way to drive through deep water, but the deep stuff that we have done hasn't caused an issue.

The TuffAnts have been more of a piece of mind than a necessity for me. Namely because a 18" tyre is easier to get than a 20" in most parts of the NT when we were there. Saying that, I have only had an issue with a 20" once and that was my fault. Something to keep in mind also, like others have mentioned, is the overall weight of the car. The TuffAnt steel rim weighs as much as their alloy rim with a tyre on it, so this could be a bit of a saver. I have noticed a change in acceleration and fuel economy since changing. I picked up 1.5L/100 in the first tank after the change. Not much, but it adds up.

The draws have the general spares and tools that you would need - nothing special - but we do carry a sat phone and Nanocom just in case.

The current set up can be quickly packed for tenting or vanning without messing around. I have a series of Front Runner Wolfpacks that get thrown on the roof and in the back of the car. So other than food or clothes, everything is good to go.

Speaking of weight, our D4 is pretty heavy. It's something I am very aware of and do my best to manage. Our Canning trip saw the car right on the limits if not over it (measured on weighbridge in Katherine before we left). Two adults, two kids in car seats, a full Engle, 184lt of fuel +2x Jerry cans, 120lt of fresh water - plus sleeping gear, tent, clothes, the Wolfpacks mentioned above, solar panel on the roof and chairs. The steel rims were on at this point, but I did save some weight in removing the middle seat from the 2nd row and removed the 3rd row seats completely. Removing the middle seat enabled us to put the water there and move some of the weight to the front. But this is the extreme for us. Normally we tow a Jayco Dove OB and have less stuff in the car, but I guess the weight saved in stuff is now back in the form of towball weight.

I saved some weight by opting to not fit a bullbar, which after some pondering and talking to people with them, was a good choice. I avoid driving at night, so don't have a need for spotties and the bracket on the bonnet was sufficient for a CB antenna. Also living where we were in the NT, if we hit anything, it was big enough to write the car off - with or without a bar - at the speeds on the highways.

The whole configuration is going to change soon due to two littles ones on their way, so there will likely be more vanning than tenting coming up. That's not to say though more adventurous trips are 100% out of the question. The Simpson is still high on the cards.

I will add something to close out. I know an old fella who does all his off road touring in one of those Mitsubishi express/L300 (or something IDK) vans. Great little set up and very capable. But in the 20 odd years that he has had it and used it, it's configuration and the stuff he takes/packs has constantly changed and evolved as he has figured out what works, what doesn't, what's needed, what isn't, etc, when he goes away. And while he has now got it sorted, there are times where he is lacking something or is dragging something he doesn't need. What I am trying to say here is that, find a set up that works for you and your family. It won't happen overnight, but you will work it out. While it's great to listen to and read about other people's set ups/mod lists to get you started, we all have different needs and requirements. Don't be afraid to do something different and see if it works.

Good luck and have fun!

[Arapiles]

2 Adults and 3 kids.

So .... re the kids, it depends on their ages but if they're out of child seats or boosters you'll want to have one in the third row to avoid elbow wars. Were you counting on carrying stuff in the back? I've seen kids sitting next to large car fridges which really isn't a good idea. If three in the second row then add a cargo barrier to the list. If one or two in the third row, add a trailer ...

[WabiSabi]

I appreciate all the responses here so far and I’m taking plenty of notes!

Because we have the X1 Camper Trailer that will take a lot of our weight. Tow bar weight is 120kg. I’m going to see if I can repair the spare wheel holder but it’s a real pain to get it out if the rear is loaded.

Ideally we’d use the third row for one of the kids so they have a bit of space. Previously we had a Delica which was terrific for the amount of space and the captains chairs but horrible to work on.

Ok I’m going to pull together these ideas and update here as I purchase and fit everything over the next couple of weeks. Loving the suggestions for specific items as it’s often the small things like UHF aerial mount that can be a pain to track down.

Thanks again everyone for the replies.

[Ghost-Who-Walks]

Regarding spare tyres, I always have 2…
The best/main spare is on the roof for easy access.
The second spare goes under the car in the normal spot. I know it’s a PITA, but I’ve never had to use 2 spares yet!!!

[John_D4]

Can’t remember if you have a roof rack on the list, but you will get far better radio reception by having the antenna on the roof rack. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220106/d512226470cde7f0a21b814c0a4f43dc.jpg
I use this style for when we go away and I swap it to a 4” rubber duck for around town. It lets me use undercover car parks and gives good around town reception. I had no loss of reception between the Flinders and Arkaroola

[ATH]

Ours is on the front of the Rhino rack and we get very good reception. I'm going to make it's attachment to the rack one where I can just reach out and turn it flat as it catches the roof of the car port if the car isn't at it's access height. I've never liked the look of those huge things so beloved by the owners of other makes stuck out the front of the vehicle.
AlanH.

[BMKal]

Ours is on the front of the Rhino rack and we get very good reception. I'm going to make it's attachment to the rack one where I can just reach out and turn it flat as it catches the roof of the car port if the car isn't at it's access height. I've never liked the look of those huge things so beloved by the owners of other makes stuck out the front of the vehicle.
AlanH.

You mean these ?????? [biggrin]

176154

[Odysseyman]

ok, my 2 cents worth.
…
I don't agree that a snorkel is not necessary. It definitely will supply cleaner air on dust roads,
Don't get where 150 ball weight adds 220 to rear axle load though. That would mean it takes 70 off the front axle. Maths doesn't seem right but I do agree that weight will be your problem. Consider putting extra spare on trailer, rather than on swing away carrier.
But what a great build & what a great adventure coming.. Good luck.

Re snorkel - do you have any data to prove that?…

To calculate the actual ball weight affect on the rear axle; multiply the ball weight by the (vehicle wheelbase plus the rear overhang) and then divide the answer by the wheelbase.
e.g. Disco:-
w/b 2900mm overhang 1320mm
Total 4220mm
Camper towball weight, for example, 240kg
240 x 4.220 = 1013
1013 / 2.900 = 350kg
on the rear axle.

David

[Arapiles]

Ideally we’d use the third row for one of the kids so they have a bit of space. Previously we had a Delica which was terrific for the amount of space and the captains chairs but horrible to work on.
.


On long trips we ended up having both rear seats up, as the kids wanted to sit next to each other to play games, so sometimes there were two kids in the rear.

[WabiSabi]

Fitted the Front Runner ladder today and broke just the one bolt, pretty usual for me that I bust something while fitting. Didn’t break any plastic tabs though so that’s a win. Ladder seems secure but was a bit of a job to get it to fit.

Also added the maxtrax bracket system and one for the shovel to the pioneer rack. I like the new shovel clips from Rhino they are lockable and very fast and easy to remove the shovel.

Waiting on everything else to arrive, the mail is soooo slow at the moment.

still tossing up between the ARB and the TJM Pro air compressor.

Spoke to Tim at Traxide about connecting a UHF and air compressor and he confirmed the trailer break needs to go direct from the cranking battery.

Key issue at the moment is the spare wheel mechanism isn’t working. I can’t lower it enough to get the spare in it. I had a puncture recently and the guys at the tyre shop over spun the mechanism and now it doesn’t work. I’ll do some trawling on how to fix/replace.

Thanks as always for your thoughts, all noted!

[John_D4]

Key issue at the moment is the spare wheel mechanism isn’t working. I can’t lower it enough to get the spare in it. I had a puncture recently and the guys at the tyre shop over spun the mechanism and now it doesn’t work. I’ll do some trawling on how to fix/replace.

Thanks as always for your thoughts, all noted!
Would it work if you attach a kettle bell weight to the wire rope and try to lower it? Sometimes a little weight on it helps

[WabiSabi]

Would it work if you attach a kettle bell weight to the wire rope and try to lower it? Sometimes a little weight on it helps

I got underneath and pulled at it while my wife wound it down but it only move about 150mm and then stops. Also as soon as there is any weight it doesn’t pull up.

[DiscoJeffster]

I got underneath and pulled at it while my wife wound it down but it only move about 150mm and then stops. Also as soon as there is any weight it doesn’t pull up.

They can be opened and repaired if you’re mechanically inclined. I believe you need to drill out the rivets etc.

[gavinwibrow]

I got underneath and pulled at it while my wife wound it down but it only move about 150mm and then stops. Also as soon as there is any weight it doesn’t pull up.


Maybe just cut your losses and cut the chain in preparation of fitting a new unit?

You might get lucky and the Ford ones from one of their utes could be a replacement at about $30 - I used a ford one to create a resting place for my single axle trailer spare underneath the trailer floor.

[Graeme]

Re snorkel - do you have any data to prove that?…
I fitted a RAI to my D4 because the filter was getting very dirty with my everyday use that included 10km of dirt. Look out the window at the dust swirling around the air intake on the side of the mudguard and you'll get an idea as to why a RAI is very worthwhile if travelling on unsealed roads.

[DiscoJeffster]

I fitted a RAI to my D4 because the filter was getting very dirty with my everyday use that included 10km of dirt. Look out the window at the dust swirling around the air intake on the side of the mudguard and you'll get an idea as to why a RAI is very worthwhile if travelling on unsealed roads.

I just like the insurance of it. Having watched Brian go into a bog hole and toast his engine when it dipped too deep suddenly, seems a no brainer to me

[scarry]

The second spare goes under the car in the normal spot. I know it’s a PITA, but I’ve never had to use 2 spares yet!!!

I have given up taking two spares as well,done 100's of thousands of K's all over the countryside,in D2's,and the D4,havent changed a single tyre.
I started just taking a spare tyre,not whole wheel to save weight,but now just have the one spare,air compresser,and plug kit.

But i always make sure our tyres are in very good condition at all times,and are high load rated AT's.
Those that start trips with P rated tyres,or half worn out tyres are asking for trouble on country roads.

As for a snorkle,good insurance if going places like the Cape with its water crossings.
It also definitely reduces the number of air filters that need changing,due to sucking cleaner air.

Bull bars,i hadnt hit a 'roo or any animal for about 30yrs,apart from the occasional bird.
In the last 3 yrs i have hit 3 'roos,and nearly cleaned up a pig on the last run back from Windorah.
The bar on the D4 definitely stopped a badly damaged vehicle which would have been a show stopper.

[WabiSabi]

I bought the GME 330c UHF touring pack today so about to fit that off. Looks like we have Covid in the house so I have a week of fitting off the D4.

I also picked up the Rhino-Rack Aerial attachment for the roof rack so the aerial can be flipped down easily from within the cab. Just need to work out the best approach to getting the cable to it from under the drivers seat as that’s where I’ll fit the base. Not sure if I should run it from there or out through the fire wall and up.

Time for more forum trolling.

[josh.huber]

I bought the GME 330c UHF touring pack today so about to fit that off. Looks like we have Covid in the house so I have a week of fitting off the D4.

I also picked up the Rhino-Rack Aerial attachment for the roof rack so the aerial can be flipped down easily from within the cab. Just need to work out the best approach to getting the cable to it from under the drivers seat as that’s where I’ll fit the base. Not sure if I should run it from there or out through the fire wall and up.

Time for more forum trolling.

Same as always mate, firewall and up.. Across the "scuttle" panel and up

[WabiSabi]

Same as always mate, firewall and up.. Across the "scuttle" panel and up

Thanks Josh I managed to do just that.

Have also run the power through that grommet as my Traxide dual battery cable was going to be a bit messy to tap into. The firewall grommet is getting pretty full, still have the redarc to run through it too.

Hardest part was trying to work out how to get the cables across from the door jam and under the seat, just didn’t seem to be a clear way to get them under the carpet so I’m going to run them behind the seat and in that way.

I have Velcro self adhesive that I’ll use to secure the unit to the top of the amp tray under the drivers seat and then I think I’ll do as per Scotts posts and fit the plug for the hand piece in the middle of the cup holder, seems neat.

[josh.huber]

Thanks Josh I managed to do just that.

Have also run the power through that grommet as my Traxide dual battery cable was going to be a bit messy to tap into. The firewall grommet is getting pretty full, still have the redarc to run through it too.

Hardest part was trying to work out how to get the cables across from the door jam and under the seat, just didn’t seem to be a clear way to get them under the carpet so I’m going to run them behind the seat and in that way.

I have Velcro self adhesive that I’ll use to secure the unit to the top of the amp tray under the drivers seat and then I think I’ll do as per Scotts posts and fit the plug for the hand piece in the middle of the cup holder, seems neat.

Now you have me thinking, in second thought I think my UHF is under the passenger seat and the cable goes through the Center, then off to the gromett.

Mine is similar to Scotts, but unfinished, I just open the Center console to pick up the hand peice, I really should finish that one day

[WabiSabi]

Now you have me thinking, in second thought I think my UHF is under the passenger seat and the cable goes through the Center, then off to the gromett.

Mine is similar to Scotts, but unfinished, I just open the Center console to pick up the hand peice, I really should finish that one day

Turns out putting the UHF under the drivers seat was a bad idea, seat would hit when sliding forward. So after running all the wires to that point I had to switch it to the passenger seat. A bit more fiddling to run all the wires across and then some more fiddling to run the earth back to the drivers side and it’s done!

Also put the adapter plug for the mike between the drink holders same as Scott. Pretty neat over all.

[Numb Thumbs]

ok, my 2 cents worth.

Don't get where 150 ball weight adds 220 to rear axle load though. That would mean it takes 70 off the front axle. Maths doesn't seem right but I do agree that weight will be your problem.

It is just physics. Leverage in fact. The rear axle is the fulcrum and the ball weight is at the end of a lever.

If a weight of 100 kg is applied to a lever 1.4 metres from the axle, it applies a lot more than 100 kilos - and the weight comes off the front axle. Just get someone really heavy to stand on your tow ball and watch the effect on the front and rear axles. Then put them in the back seat, over the rear axle.

Cheers
Numb Thumbs ;)

[StewG]

I am very conscious of axle loadings and for this reason alone I have kept my D4 close to stock standard. No roof rack, but have added Traxide DBS and UHF radio. We tow a 2.6 T off-road caravan and carry an Engel, some tools and clothes in the D4 with only 150 kg up front (driver and 1 pax). The towball weight is about 260 kg and that, plus the Engel and full tank of fuel, takes us close to the rear axle limit of 1855 kg.

[Dudela]

Would suggest checking out the Xlifter over the LLAMs system, have used both and my preference is the Xlifter for ease of use and easy for the wife to also see what settings are active.

[rocket rod]

still tossing up between the ARB and the TJM Pro air compressor.
If you have space in the passenger side rear compartment you could do this for a TJM compressor install Onboard Air compressor (aulro.com) (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/287886-onboard-air-compressor.html#post3110828)

[John_D4]

Turns out putting the UHF under the drivers seat was a bad idea, seat would hit when sliding forward. So after running all the wires to that point I had to switch it to the passenger seat. A bit more fiddling to run all the wires across and then some more fiddling to run the earth back to the drivers side and it’s done!

Also put the adapter plug for the mike between the drink holders same as Scott. Pretty neat over all.

Not sure what you’re talking about. My icom remote mic uhf is under the drivers seat quite happily. I’ve even fit my cellfi go under there too

[DiscoJeffster]

Not sure what you’re talking about. My icom remote mic uhf is under the drivers seat quite happily. I’ve even fit my cellfi go under there too

If you have the good audio I believe you have an amplifier under there like I do that limits the space

[WabiSabi]

Not sure what you’re talking about. My icom remote mic uhf is under the drivers seat quite happily. I’ve even fit my cellfi go under there too

Under my drivers seat there is a stereo amp, must be the upgraded system. I thought I could mount it to the top of that but turns out there isn’t enough room.

[WabiSabi]

If you have space in the passenger side rear compartment you could do this for a TJM compressor install Onboard Air compressor (aulro.com) (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/287886-onboard-air-compressor.html#post3110828)

Yep that’s exactly my plan.

[WabiSabi]

Would suggest checking out the Xlifter over the LLAMs system, have used both and my preference is the Xlifter for ease of use and easy for the wife to also see what settings are active.

Is the Xlifter a straight forward install? It’s $990 compared to $550 for the LLAMS. Any other advantages besides the ease of use?

Thanks Dudela!

[John_D4]

Is the Xlifter a straight forward install? It’s $990 compared to $550 for the LLAMS. Any other advantages besides the ease of use?

Thanks Dudela!

From what I understand, the x lifter will allow you to raise each wheel independently. A benefit of you sleep in the back of the car. Llams makes raising or lowering for any length of time easier. You can however do the same as llams from an iid, just less fast.

[John_D4]

Under my drivers seat there is a stereo amp, must be the upgraded system. I thought I could mount it to the top of that but turns out there isn’t enough room.

Got me wondering now, I’ll have to have a look

[101RRS]

If you have a requirement to level the vehicle when parked then by all means get xLifter but otherwise save the $400 and get LLams - the self levelling function of the xLifter is its main advantage over LLAMs and unless you sleep in the car on slopes not really needed.

[WabiSabi]

If you have a requirement to level the vehicle when parked then by all means get xLifter but otherwise save the $400 and get LLams - the self levelling function of the xLifter is its main advantage over LLAMs and unless you sleep in the car on slopes not really needed.

Nice. I’ve ordered the Lllams. Not sleeping in the vehicle and the camper trailer has leveling airbags so we are all good there.

Thanks.

[Dudela]

Is the Xlifter a straight forward install? It’s $990 compared to $550 for the LLAMS. Any other advantages besides the ease of use?

Thanks Dudela!

Fairly easy to install and takes less than an hour, easy to bypass if required for some reason.

The ability to see the digital read out at any time on the local display, with our Rhino roofrack and bike racks on top I need to ensure we are at the access level prior to entering our garage. As the wife can confirm the 0mm lift on the Xlifter display ensures we dont have an interference issue which would be expensive. There is an app however have not used it in anger however can see the easy trailer lift may come into use from time to time as some locations are not level when un/hitching.

Custom heights can also be set however have not needed them mostly use it for the sand at +55mm and on highways at -15mm.

[John_D4]

Turns out mine doesn’t have an amp under the drivers seat. That explains my confusion my cellfi-go is mounted behind the uhf.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220112/5ab18fe15e796b5298454c997bf8c4cf.jpg

[WabiSabi]

Ok I’m a little stuck.

I’m installing the LLAMS and I want to put the control knob in the position where Scott has it on the side of the steering wheel column but I can’t work out how to get it up there or how the plastic comes off. I took out the two screws on the column but still cant get it off.

Anyone got any pointers?

[WabiSabi]

I just found a forum that describes how to get the column cover off, I missed that third screw down the back so hopefully that should do it!

Llams switches preferred locations in D4 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/212410-llams-switches-preferred-locations-d4-2.html)

[jh972]

Would suggest checking out the Xlifter over the LLAMs system, have used both and my preference is the Xlifter for ease of use and easy for the wife to also see what settings are active.

Can't understand how anything could be easier than Llams to use. You simply rotate one knob. And what setting is selected is entirely visible as the indicator LED changes colour to indicate the setting.

[PerthDisco]

I just found a forum that describes how to get the column cover off, I missed that third screw down the back so hopefully that should do it!

Llams switches preferred locations in D4 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/212410-llams-switches-preferred-locations-d4-2.html)

This cover is 13/10 difficult to reinstall and start the screws. The front two screws do the job well enough.

[Tombie]

Bit late to the party but heres my take for the average traveller that wants some of the better gear:

Prospeed front bar with hoop - gives you a winch mount, light mounts and a bit of additional frontal protection - all behind the standard bar so looks pretty nice.
For more serious use an ARB or equivalent - although a bit heavier

Rear wheel carrier - single only- RIjidij unit

Rear tank is a huge bonus if going long distances

Take 3rd row seats out to drop weight

Keep storage simple and light - draws are nice but heavy - so think about that

[WabiSabi]

Finished off installing the LLAMS today, found new ways to twist my body and arms to get it all plugged in and back together.

Works a treat!

Still waiting on the redarc tow pro to arrive so I can install that.

Changed my mind on the compressor at the last minute, had the TJM Pro sitting on the counter with the air hose and the digital inflator and it was $550 compared to the portable at $199. I backed out and got the portable instead. If it becomes an issue in a year or so maybe I’ll change my mind. I did find an interesting spot for a permanent install though. In the large cavity with the lid on the back passenger side above the tow ball spot. It didn’t fit where the tow ball goes because I’ve got rear air con but it would fit in the shelf just fine and you can still run power to it from the same spot and has it’s own lid.

[WabiSabi]

Bit late to the party but heres my take for the average traveller that wants some of the better gear:

Prospeed front bar with hoop - gives you a winch mount, light mounts and a bit of additional frontal protection - all behind the standard bar so looks pretty nice.
For more serious use an ARB or equivalent - although a bit heavier

Rear wheel carrier - single only- RIjidij unit

Rear tank is a huge bonus if going long distances

Take 3rd row seats out to drop weight

Keep storage simple and light - draws are nice but heavy - so think about that

Thanks Tombie!

I’m still torn as to if whether I get the rear wheel carrier and tank. If I do then Rigidig is the one. I might do a few trips first and see how it all goes. I’ve got some Tuffant alloys with K02’s coming so will see how hard it is to get one of those tucked up underneath. But need to replace/repair the winder first.

Not going to bother with draws in the vehicle as we have lots of storage in the X1 camper trailer so this keeps some weight down in the Disco. Maybe that will be enough to justify putting the wheel carrier on.

[chuck]

I used to be able to get a 265 70 17 Mickey Thompson MTZ under my 2009 D3.

Had to deflate to about 10lb though.

[DiscoJeffster]

Thanks Tombie!

I’m still torn as to if whether I get the rear wheel carrier and tank. If I do then Rigidig is the one. I might do a few trips first and see how it all goes. I’ve got some Tuffant alloys with K02’s coming so will see how hard it is to get one of those tucked up underneath. But need to replace/repair the winder first.

Not going to bother with draws in the vehicle as we have lots of storage in the X1 camper trailer so this keeps some weight down in the Disco. Maybe that will be enough to justify putting the wheel carrier on.

I’d get a RWC just to have somewhere to put a second spare for a trip, not to get a long range tank. Remove it when in town

[Sandy]

Hi WabiSabi, I see you chose a Rhino large platform with backbone and Traxide dual battery system. I assume you looked at the alternatives of a Front runner platform rack and redarc dual battery system.

I now have to equip my D4 and was just interested in the reasons behind the choices you made which may help my decisions. Happy for other opinions as well. Thanks.

[John_D4]

Personally, I chose a rhino and traxide because:

Although rhino backbone is not a fabulous roof rack, it has excellent after sales in Australia. It also has a system to mount pretty much anything. It does the job for me, but then I’m not mounting 4 Jerry cans, a panel and a mud tyre on my roof rack.

Redarc is also an excellent product, made here in SA, but horribly overpriced for the same product at a competitor. A staff member who is a friend told me the same and confessed that although they love the product they’d never buy any. Tim from Traxide has always given me 1st class customer service and I’ve had no issues with his products or active at all.

I do use the redarc tow pro elite. I love it.

[WabiSabi]

Hi WabiSabi, I see you chose a Rhino large platform with backbone and Traxide dual battery system. I assume you looked at the alternatives of a Front runner platform rack and redarc dual battery system.

I now have to equip my D4 and was just interested in the reasons behind the choices you made which may help my decisions. Happy for other opinions as well. Thanks.

Hey Sandy

Yeah I hear you, I went with Rhino based off the recommendations here and I’ve had one previously. It was also a bit cheaper than front runner and there’s lots of options for it. Just wanted all the space with the large platform for surfboards and being able to get a wheel up there. I think front runner would also be great.

Battery system again was based on all the recommendations here and because I was fitting it myself I wanted to follow clear instructions. Tim has been good with follow up questions, there is some room for improvement in the updating of the instructions from Tim, seems he has a lot of systems and is often tweaking them but you can call him 7 days a week which is great.

I’ve installed the redarc break controller now and it seems to be working well, towed the camper trailer back yesterday and it did the trick.

Hope that helps a bit!

Now I just need to fix my bonnet release which I think just snapped!

[Sandy]

Hey Sandy

Yeah I hear you, I went with Rhino based off the recommendations here and I’ve had one previously. It was also a bit cheaper than front runner and there’s lots of options for it. Just wanted all the space with the large platform for surfboards and being able to get a wheel up there. I think front runner would also be great.

Battery system again was based on all the recommendations here and because I was fitting it myself I wanted to follow clear instructions. Tim has been good with follow up questions, there is some room for improvement in the updating of the instructions from Tim, seems he has a lot of systems and is often tweaking them but you can call him 7 days a week which is great.

I’ve installed the redarc break controller now and it seems to be working well, towed the camper trailer back yesterday and it did the trick.

Hope that helps a bit!

Now I just need to fix my bonnet release which I think just snapped!

Thanks wabisabi - any issues with wind noise with your rhino. I am starting to wonder if the wind noise issue is more to do with full length units and less so with 3/4 length units.

[John_D4]

I’ve got a full length rhino platform on my 2013 with the backbone system and I’ve had no issues at all with wind noise.

[Sandy]

Personally, I chose a rhino and traxide because:

Although rhino backbone is not a fabulous roof rack, it has excellent after sales in Australia. It also has a system to mount pretty much anything. It does the job for me, but then I’m not mounting 4 Jerry cans, a panel and a mud tyre on my roof rack.

Redarc is also an excellent product, made here in SA, but horribly overpriced for the same product at a competitor. A staff member who is a friend told me the same and confessed that although they love the product they’d never buy any. Tim from Traxide has always given me 1st class customer service and I’ve had no issues with his products or active at all.

I do use the redarc tow pro elite. I love it.

Thanks John, this is all very helpful as are the other inputs.

I am new to this forum (even though having bought my LR3 since 2007) and the purchase of the LR4 this week has got me going, thus I am highly liable to start ploughing old ground for most - but everyone is very forthcoming and helpful. Thanks [smilebigeye]

[WabiSabi]

Thanks wabisabi - any issues with wind noise with your rhino. I am starting to wonder if the wind noise issue is more to do with full length units and less so with 3/4 length units.

I’ve had no issue with wind noise myself. When I have the spare wheel on the roof I can notice that but otherwise it’s not been a concern at all. I might have noticed it a little when I first put it on but very minimal.

[WabiSabi]

The Tuffants went on today with a full set of K02 265 x 60. Very happy with the new boots!

I picked up some under carriage protection yesterday too from APT. Got the Air compressor guard, the front guard and the transmission guard. Just need to get under and instal it all.

First real trip is coming up this weekend, going to visit some friends on the Sunny coast and then head to Moreton Island for a few days with the patriot camper.

That’s IF I CAN GET THE BONNET OPEN!!!!

If anyone has any thoughts on getting it open please reply, I’m stumped.

Cheers

[DieselLSE]

That’s IF I CAN GET THE BONNET OPEN!!!!

If anyone has any thoughts on getting it open please reply, I’m stumped.

Cheers
The cable should be accessible just behind the lever under the dash. You may need to remove the panel, but that is easy. I suspect the cable end has been dislodged from the lever. Just reconnecting it or pulling it with pliers should at least open the bonnet.

[WabiSabi]

The cable should be accessible just behind the lever under the dash. You may need to remove the panel, but that is easy. I suspect the cable end has been dislodged from the lever. Just reconnecting it or pulling it with pliers should at least open the bonnet.

Thanks DieselLSE the cable is still moving with the lever so it’s connected at that end, seems to be further along where the issue is. I’ll have a poke around to make sure it just hasn’t slipped off a hinge or something, it’s worth a shot but I have a feeling I’m going to need to find a way to get the bonnet open otherwise.

[DiscoJeffster]

Search the site, maybe with Google, as bonnet catch issues have been had before and fixed, but the hassle is getting in via the front grill to undo them if I recall

[Azza_LR3]

WabiSabi.

I have a 08 Disco 3.
* Id highly recommend the Xlifter. I use one, its great and you can set you own heights, or use the programmed ones, simple to use, and reliable.
* Might be worth investing in a Scanguage also, it seems overlooked on your list, always good to know what going on, with oil, water, boost, manifold pressure etc. (give signs you have a fault) to stop and rectify.
* Compressor wise, I have the New TJM one, i mounted it under bonnet in front of battery, easy to access, plug in you matrix in deflate and your set to air up or down, its quick, and reliable.
* Regarding luggage, the Rhino backbone is a great system, you can add your own bits as required.
* CB - Go with a reputable brand. I run GME and its great, they can supply cool brackets to have them mount from under bonnet.
* Good choice on BFG’s, IMO they are the best all-round, Ive used them in the Pilbara (sharp rocks) FNQ (burnt tree stumps), and Vic (good in the mud, on rocks, and sand.
* Spare tires - I carry 2 on a cayman rear carrier, easy access, and keeps mess out of car. Plus you can hang a gear recovery gear bag off back.(if needed)
* You can buy discreet winch mounts from UK, if you need to, I find ARB bar a bit chunky. This is why im in process of building my own bar, to house a winch.
* Something you have over looked in a Billet alloy top radiator housing. as the plastic ones are known to fail when you are most vulnerable (they crack when old).

hope that helps
Azza