EPB and plastic box question

[Floz]

I got into sandy mud with my 2007 D3 that ground down all my brake pads and shoes. After the usual squeal of the EPB and seizure (unlocked manually with cable) its time for the EPB overhaul me thinks. I have the replacement gears for the module and watched a good number of videos.
However none of them showed a plastic box mounted in front of the module and bracket and I'm wondering what this might be and what's involved to take it off to have access to the module bracket (see pics). My D3 is a 4.0 V6 petrol with LPG conversion. Could this box have something to do with the LPG system?

At this place I'm also interested of any experience people have taking the module out either by taking the bracket out or through the left side wheel arch. Any preferences? Anything I have to specifically watch out for?

Any input much appreciated.
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[PerthDisco]

I’d start by removing discs and thoroughly cleaning / servicing the park brake assembly. You may need new pads in there. Plastic box probably ok once it’s all reset. Follow Bodsy’s Brake Bible for Discoverys.

[Floz]

I’d start by removing discs and thoroughly cleaning / servicing the park brake assembly. You may need new pads in there. Plastic box probably ok once it’s all reset. Follow Bodsy’s Brake Bible for Discoverys.

Sorry I failed to mention that I have already cleaned out everything, replaced all brake pads and park brake shoes and made sure that the park brake wires are clean and sliding ok. After assembly the park brake did not work and was still screeching, I suspect that the common fault (broken tip of small gear in module) has occurred.

I have the parts already and have to get the module out. The plastic box seen in the pictures is not the EPB module. The module sits behind this box. What I'd like to find out is what the function of this box is before taking it out to have access to the bracket and EPB module.

[TopEndThom]

Before you start the ridiculously tedious process of removing the module, have a look a this thread.

EPB - Park brake module fixed IN SITU (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/286222-epb-park-brake-module-fixed-situ.html)

The threaded rod that tightens the cables can torque itself too tight if it ever reaches its max travel. This happens when the shoes are worn down or the cables stretched. In this scenario the squeal you hear is the motor trying to spin a seized rod, and a built in slip gear (or clutch?) doing its job so that the nylon teeth on in the gearbox proper don’t shear off. The threaded rod can be manually loosened whilst the module is in-situ. You’ll need to lay under the car and hug the drive train whilst you get the cover off.
Worth a shot if your symptoms are the same as what mine were.

I thought my EPB was absolutely toast but it’s worked perfectly ever since.

[Floz]

Thanks Thom,

I have read your thread before but thought the access is too difficult in-situ. I will give it a go though, if successful it does save a lot of trouble.
However to get access I have to remove the plastic box in front and I'm still trying to find out what it is. Nobody else seem to have it, at least not at that place. ???

[PerthDisco]

Thanks Thom,

I have read your thread before but thought the access is too difficult in-situ. I will give it a go though, if successful it does save a lot of trouble.
However to get access I have to remove the plastic box in front and I'm still trying to find out what it is. Nobody else seem to have it, at least not at that place. ???

Be the one who tells us what it is [emoji123]

[TopEndThom]

Thanks Thom,

I have read your thread before but thought the access is too difficult in-situ. I will give it a go though, if successful it does save a lot of trouble.
However to get access I have to remove the plastic box in front and I'm still trying to find out what it is. Nobody else seem to have it, at least not at that place. ???

Is that box forward or aft of the EBP module? If it’s aft then you’re in business. Access to the module cover is from the front.

Also, is the screeching you hear the same every time? Kinda like someone playing with a pneumatic wheel gun?

[Floz]

Is that box forward or aft of the EBP module? If it’s aft then you’re in business. Access to the module cover is from the front.

Also, is the screeching you hear the same every time? Kinda like someone playing with a pneumatic wheel gun?

The box is aft of the EPB so I might be lucky [smilebigeye]

The screeching is pretty much the same every time but from what I can remember not like a rattle gun (I have pulled the fuse and was driving without a EPB for a while). What are the different causes rattle vs. continuous screeching?

[PerthDisco]

Have you watched the Britpart video? It’s a good one?

[TopEndThom]

The box is aft of the EPB so I might be lucky [smilebigeye]

The screeching is pretty much the same every time but from what I can remember not like a rattle gun (I have pulled the fuse and was driving without a EPB for a while). What are the different causes rattle vs. continuous screeching?

I remember it being difficult to find info on it when I had my issues, but piecing it together via YouTube I figured the ‘rattle gun’ was programmed into the module and would initiate when it sensed it was torqued up. All the videos I found where people had this issue had the same noise with the same frequency and pattern.
Constant screeching maybe when the threaded rod is loose but a gear has been stripped?

I’m sure there’s someone on here who knows exactly.

[Floz]

Have you watched the Britpart video? It’s a good one?

Thanks, I just watched the Britparts video. The disassembly and assembly of the EPB is brilliant, very clear and much better than what I found. The other one of fault finding doesn't give much info and no fault indication at all.

I probably have to take the module out and change the gears so will follow Britparts instructions.

[Floz]

I remember it being difficult to find info on it when I had my issues, but piecing it together via YouTube I figured the ‘rattle gun’ was programmed into the module and would initiate when it sensed it was torqued up. All the videos I found where people had this issue had the same noise with the same frequency and pattern.
Constant screeching maybe when the threaded rod is loose but a gear has been stripped?

I’m sure there’s someone on here who knows exactly.

You're probably right that the rattling would prevent any damage to the gears. So a constant screeching could be stripped teeth or the tip of the small gear has sheared off (the one with the spring and washer). Someone is manufacturing this gear with a brass tip as it seems to be a common problem but I couldn't get hold of one. I settled with a replacement plastic set of gears.
Two things doing it in-situ: going through all the trouble to get the Torx screws out, isn't it easier to take the whole module out? Also if there is only limited space I'm not sure I can apply a proper silicone seal for the lid and would be nervous going through each river crossing.
As I said, I'll give it a go and if unsuccessful I still can take the module out. And the mysterious box.

[goldey]

Hi Floz
I too am one of thones who had the dreaded squeel, locked on park brake (used the cable to release) and then did the whole release of the cable and reset the EPB in-situ. If I recall, I actually worked on the EPB from the back after dropping the spare out of the way and rolling EPB module over as it was incredibly painful trying to work around the driveshaft and other bits and pieces forward of the EPB. Which means that 'mystery' plastic box (which mine did not have) would have to be removed first.
In regard to resealing the box, with some care and time I was able to reseal it with black sikaflex, so it should be thoeroughly waterprrof (hopefully so as it's just been through numerous water crossings on a Fraser Island trip). I too replaced the brake shoes, cleaned out the drums and followed Bodsy's brake bible to the letter. No issues since then, no replacement plastic gears. The only thing I did with the EPB was to 'unjam' it and wind the mechanism back together, which turned out to be pretty straightforward.
Regards
Goldey

[PerthDisco]

You're probably right that the rattling would prevent any damage to the gears. So a constant screeching could be stripped teeth or the tip of the small gear has sheared off (the one with the spring and washer). Someone is manufacturing this gear with a brass tip as it seems to be a common problem but I couldn't get hold of one. I settled with a replacement plastic set of gears.
Two things doing it in-situ: going through all the trouble to get the Torx screws out, isn't it easier to take the whole module out? Also if there is only limited space I'm not sure I can apply a proper silicone seal for the lid and would be nervous going through each river crossing.
As I said, I'll give it a go and if unsuccessful I still can take the module out. And the mysterious box.

Back in the day when cars had powered telescopic aerials there was a similar spring loaded engagement mechanism that allowed the drive gear to slip rather than shred teeth making the rattle gun noise. It’s a common technique.

[TopEndThom]

You're probably right that the rattling would prevent any damage to the gears. So a constant screeching could be stripped teeth or the tip of the small gear has sheared off (the one with the spring and washer). Someone is manufacturing this gear with a brass tip as it seems to be a common problem but I couldn't get hold of one. I settled with a replacement plastic set of gears.
Two things doing it in-situ: going through all the trouble to get the Torx screws out, isn't it easier to take the whole module out? Also if there is only limited space I'm not sure I can apply a proper silicone seal for the lid and would be nervous going through each river crossing.
As I said, I'll give it a go and if unsuccessful I still can take the module out. And the mysterious box.

The torx screws are the easy part as they’re not very tight, although for a couple of them you’ll be working semi blind.
The hardest part is getting the cover off. Once you break a little bit of the sealant the rest comes quite easy.

In terms of sealing it back up I just liberally applied the sealant (black sikaflex) to the lid before refitting. Pretty straight forward.

In terms of what’s easier overall - I’m not sure, but from what I read and saw, removing the module completely is very time consuming and difficult.

Unfortunately if you do need to swap the gears you’ll have to completely remove it. But at least you’ll know for sure it’s necessary if you get the cover off in-situation first.

[350RRC]

Once you break a little bit of the sealant the rest comes quite easy.

In terms of sealing it back up I just liberally applied the sealant (black sikaflex) to the lid before refitting. Pretty straight forward............................



The problem will come down the track when it has to be done again.

Cracking the seal that's been done with black sika won't be easy............... wouldn't ordinary silicon be better if everything is cleaned prior with prepsol or similar?

just asking, DL

[TopEndThom]

The problem will come down the track when it has to be done again.

Cracking the seal that's been done with black sika won't be easy............... wouldn't ordinary silicon be better if everything is cleaned prior with prepsol or similar?

just asking, DL

You’re right. I just checked my sealants box and it was actually sikaseal roof and gutter. Should be easier to break than sikaflex?

[Floz]

Thanks for all hints and tips.
Now that I started this thread and was about to get into it unfortunately I had a bushwalking accident a week ago and fractured a vertebrae [bigsad]. I have to put the works on hold for a few weeks but if anyone has more to add I'll be an interested reader.
Once mobile again and able to bang around under the car I will post my findings.

[TopEndThom]

Rest up! A broken brake is far less important than a broken back.

[Floz]

So the EPB is fixed, my broken back unfortunately needs more time. But I had a friend helping out and we followed Thom's description and accessed the module from the front (him doing the work, me handing the tools and holding the beers).
We even managed to break the same plastic part to make sure we don't leave out any step [biggrin]

Torx screws were easy, breaking the seal of the cover a bastard. Then onto the bar with the stubby flathead, again a bit of a struggle. Once wound in I couldn't believe the EPB did its job as nothing happened. I used silicone gasket to seal up the module again. Can't be any worse than the original sealant!

Total time for the fix about 1 1/2 hours.

Now onto the break adjustment and bedding in the new break shoes.

Thanks to everyone for their input and especially TopEndThom for the detailed step by step description. It saved a lot of time and probably headaches.

[TopEndThom]

Stoked to hear that it worked for you!

Did you ever answer your original question though? What’s the box?