Removing alternator on 3.6 L322

[vbrab]

Have to do alternator changeover myself on 08 L322 3.6 after it failed and I am too far from nearest repair option. (Over 3300k's away)
Have seen video showing how to remove chnage alternator on L322 3.6 diesel - Google Search (https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=chnage+alternator+on+L322+3.6+diesel#kpvalbx=_y0 L7Ya_fDp-L4-EPx5SkgAE19)
Problem in my case is that my alternator is restrained from coming forward enough to be extracted, by the fresh air to turbo pipe that runs off the bottom of the radiator cowling.
In the video, the bottom of the cowling appears to stay in place and alternator still clears it enough to come free.
In my case it appears that the air intake pipe attached to lower radiator cowling limits the alternator coming free.
Have seen some removal directions, but they are for 3.6 RR sport, access on L322 appears more limited.
Other instructions for removal of alternator from 3.6 L322 appear impossible with suggestions to remove wheel arch liner and extract through there.
What I want to know is IF I remove the lower fan cowling from radiator, does the remaining fresh air to turbo pipe pull forward (IE, is it held in place by rest of cowling and pipe and is just pushed on to intake at turbo end), or is that also "clipped/fastened" at turbo end.
I am unable to see where it ends, so need to know if it can be eased forward once I remove lower radiator fan cowling.
I don't see how alternator can come out without that pipe being removed or twisted out of way.
So can anybody advise about those fresh air pipes that run with bottom of radiator cowl, or are there any clear/correct instructions for removing alternator from L322.
Stuck for options to progress removal.

Post Script 2 hours later.
Went ahead and undid bottom of radiator cowl, removed air cleaner box, had to separate the two intake pipes, and also unbolt what appears to be transmission cooler underneath bottom of cowl.
Could then remove bottom of fan cowl. This gave me a little more room to work in, but did not appear to make that much difference to making it easier to remove alternator
Could not get any more movement from remainder of air intake going to turbo, but did manage to wiggle and pull alternator out.
now all i have to do it get new one back in and remember where all the bits go.

[Graeme]

I hope that it goes well. I have my 4.4's to change when the parts arrive.

[vbrab]

I hope that it goes well. I have my 4.4's to change when the parts arrive.

I'm not certain on it, but some information showing changing over alternator on 4.4 make it look a little easier, than on the 3.6
I am still shaking my head at just how much has to be undone and how difficult it is to get at the alternator on a 3.6, so I hope the 4.4 does turn out to be a little more straightforward.

[Graeme]

My brother had to change the alternator on his 3.6 RRS. Initially he thought it impossible to remove the rear bolt but the WSM showed the steps to accessing it through the wheel-arch after removing a couple of pipes, which my brother would never have otherwise tried.
From reports posted by others, the 4.4's shouldn't be too bothersome but I could revise that during the event.

[vbrab]

My brother had to change the alternator on his 3.6 RRS. Initially he thought it impossible to remove the rear bolt but the WSM showed the steps to accessing it through the wheel-arch after removing a couple of pipes, which my brother would never have otherwise tried.
From reports posted by others, the 4.4's shouldn't be too bothersome but I could revise that during the event.

The main benefit I found from removing the drivers side wheel arch liner was that I could get at the mounting screws on the lower half of the fan shroud and the mounting bolts for the coolant expansion tank, the removal of which did make it a little easier to get at the alternator wiring (especially reinstalling). It also improved visibility to see what I was trying to get at as far as bolts went
Having the wheel arch cover and the expansion tank off, does improve access to the mounting bolts for the turbo pipe (if going down that path).
RAVE suggests removing the drivers side turbo pipe to make it easier to remove and re-install the alternator, BUT the alternator can be removed and re-installed (with some pushing) without removing or loosening that turbo pipe.

Was able to access all mounting bolts for the alternator from the front with just ratchet and socket (3) or from underneath (2) using long shaft and universal coupling. 3/8" drive was easier than using half inch drive.

Another 2" of wiring on the positive lead to the Alternator would make such a difference to fitting it, just surprised that LR didn't come up with a better wiring connection system.

[Graeme]

No problem accessing the 4.4's alternator once the radiator shroud was removed but getting to some of the shroud's lower screws wasn't so easy. I spent 2 full days on mine.

[vbrab]

No problem accessing the 4.4's alternator once the radiator shroud was removed but getting to some of the shroud's lower screws wasn't so easy. I spent 2 full days on mine.

I found (on 3.6 engine), that fan shroud lower mounting bolts were much easier to access after I removed the air intake filter box and the drivers side wheel arch liner, otherwise VERY hard to get at.

[Gillie]

Any Updates? How did you get on?