Brake Pedal Shaft Removal + 186 help

[Paxy]

Hi,

Starting to work my way through the new Series 3 LWb with a 186 I picked up last weekend, brakes are first cab off the rank as the pedal was stuck to the floor, and it is a pain moving it around with only the handbrake working. some photos to start of the state of play generally.

177906 177907 177908

First, here's the setup as found - non servo kind, single circuit from what i can make out.
177900

I've disconnected everything and now have the brake pedal assembly out of the car and on the bench, taken the master cylinder out, and also have drifted the pin out of the pedal shaft.
177903

The issue is the pedal is still stuck, it can be moved by hand with a fair bit of force, but is way too tight + likely rusty. I'm stuck on how to remove the pedal shaft itself from the assembly. the manual seems to suggest it comes out the same side as the roller pin end, but i've also seen some videos online of people sticking a decent sized bolt into the pin end of the shaft and hitting it with a club/sledge hammer to knock it out.
177901

I've tried that but it hasn't budged a bit. The pic below is of the other (oil plug) side where the shaft looks to be slightly proud of the bushing, and was that way before i got to it, and despite the walloping from the other end, it isn't moving.
177902

I'm a bit nervous that any more force will break something. any tips? would heat / bigger hammer / a hydraulic press help? i've liberally coated it with CRC in the vain hope it will loosen up, but suspect i'll need more direct action than that.


Toby

[gromit]

I think your assumption is correct, penetrating oil, heat & brute force.

The pin has probably rusted where it fits into the pedal box either side.
Is the pedal still not moving ? This runs on bushes on the pin, you should be able to get the pedal to move otherwise this is more resistance as you try to remove the pin.

I've had a few that were well & truly stuck together.

You've also attached a couple of pictures of the water pump with a bolt blocking an outlet.
This would have been for a heater, when you buy a Holden water pump this connection is there but often internally it's sealed, you have to drill through if you want to use this connection. Fell foul of this recently on the young bloke's Corona (Holden Starfire motor), previous owned had fitted a new pump but the heater wouldn't work.
Flushed the system tried various things then checked the pump and the heater outlet was sealed !! Drilled through and all works OK now.


Colin

[JDNSW]

A reminder that until well into the seventies heaters were an option!

[Paxy]

Thanks for the quick response. I’ll give it a bath in penetrating oil and invest in a larger hammer.

Does it matter which side I try and get it out of or will it only come out one way?

Re the water heater plug, thanks, i was going to pip that in a future post but you’ve answered that one too. Don’t suppose you know what the hose coming off the rocker cover cap is supposed to connect to do you? It came as is just loose in the engine bay.

[gromit]

Thanks for the quick response. I’ll give it a bath in penetrating oil and invest in a larger hammer.

Does it matter which side I try and get it out of or will it only come out one way?

Re the water heater plug, thanks, i was going to pip that in a future post but you’ve answered that one too. Don’t suppose you know what the hose coming off the rocker cover cap is supposed to connect to do you? It came as is just loose in the engine bay.

I don't think it matters which way the pin is driven out.

I'm not up on Holden's but I would think this would go to the air filter somewhere or maybe a catch can.

Colin

[1950landy]

The later Holden 6's had a filter in the side of the air filter housing 177944 to filter the air being drawn into the rocker cover as shown in this photo except this one is into another hole just behind the filler cap 177941 where this one shows going into the filler cap 177942 You can either remove the hose & fit one of these filters in the hole in the cap or leave the hose & fit one on the end of the hose 177943. If the ait filter fitted is the correct one for the Holden motor you can just plug the hose into the air filter. You need a filter to stop dust being sucked into the engine internals.

[Paxy]

thanks for that - the end of the hose shows signs of being connected to something with a hoseclamp at some stage, will pull the air filter cover and have a sniff around.

[JDNSW]

I seem to remember some of those aircleaners had a short bit of pipe sticking out the bottom for it. If leftopen, this will be sucking dust into the engine!

[1950landy]

I seem to remember some of those aircleaners had a short bit of pipe sticking out the bottom for it. If leftopen, this will be sucking dust into the engine!

Breather filter between 1.30 & 2 .30 o'clock , you can see the white filter material in the plastic housing .177973 the pipe part of housing sticks out the side of the air filter housing. Don't remember ever seeing any out the bottom.

[Paxy]

That's great info and thanks for the pic. I'm away for the Easter break but will check my filter when I get back to see if it is like the photo and has a spot for the hose to connect into.

Btw on the pedal shaft a blowtorch and bigger club hammer did the trick. The shaft popped out fairly easily once it had been heated up. The brass bushes don't want to move at all so I might leave them there and overhaul the rest.

I've noticed the oil plug end of the pedal shaft has very slightly larger diameter than the pin end. Only observed when testing the fit as the pin end slides into the bush whereas the oil plug end will need to be hammered home. Is it worth turning the bigger end down on a lathe so it just slides in or keep it as a friction/hammer fit?

[JDNSW]

Up to you. No particular advantage either way, although it really does not want to move in the bracket.

[Paxy]

managed some more time in the shed this weekend, progress, albeit slow, on the brakes.

all drum brake screws are out which was a bit of a battle, now i'm onto pulling the hubs off which i'm going to have a go at tomorrow.

i did find one of no doubt many suss 'upgrades' in the right rear brake line - a new improved flexible hose from axle to hub.
178387

I also got a better look at the rear end, and the 'AEON HOLLOW RUBBER SPRING's fitted where i'm guessing the normal bump stop would go. Does anyone have any knowledge of these? I googled them and the cover of their catalogue features a tractor, which fits where this S3 came from.
178389178388

I'm keen to get the wheel hubs off and have a look - the manual says the rear ones are removed by twisting and levering off, mine seem stuck fast - any tips would be appreciated.

[JDNSW]

I assume you mean the hub cap? These should be a tight push fit, and can usually be simply levered off (or removed by hitting a rock etc on rough tracks), but if untouched for a long time may be additionally stuck with rust. Replacements were readily available last time I looked, as they are interchangeable for all Series Landrovers, so don't worry too much about butchering them.

[gromit]

i did find one of no doubt many suss 'upgrades' in the right rear brake line - a new improved flexible hose from axle to hub.



It looks like someone has sleeved the rigid brake line before fitting the flare nut. This would be to protect the tube from stones etc. but could trap & hold water causing rust which would be hidden from view.

I have a brochure somewhere on the Aeon 'springs'. They were fitted to carry some of the load when you overload the vehicle (or the leaf springs are getting tired).


Colin