140NM Wheel Nut Tightening Torque

[Mike57]

The specified tightening torque for my D4 and I guess most LR vehicles is 140NM. My D4 was deleivered to me with anti sieze on all the studs and I have maintained that over the years. I don't know if the anti sieze was there from the factory or not. My vehicle was purchased brand new. My question is this...Does anyone know if the 140NM tightening torque is correct for the lubricated studs. The torque for dry and lubricated threads will be different for the same stud size and type (0.7 less for lubricated studs typically). I have always wondewred if all LR vehicles came delivered with anti sieze on the studs and whether the 140NM specification allows for that?

[DiscoJeffster]

Dry thread. It’s frowned upon to use anti-seize on wheel studs. Clean them off and torque to 140NM, don’t use less torque as a substitute

[BMKal]

Hope this link works - explains it all pretty well.

Should You Put Anti-Seize On Wheel Studs / Lug Nuts? - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3ndeXiZUeM)

[Dagilmo]

Thanks for posting. Interesting watch.

[101RRS]

Who lugs around a torque wrench to tighten up wheel nuts - a standard wheel brace tightened by arm until you cannot move it anymore is spot on. Never had an issue.

[W&KO]

Who lugs around a torque wrench to tighten up wheel nuts - a standard wheel brace tightened by arm until you cannot move it anymore is spot on. Never had an issue.

Agree….

And the old classic range rovers had a folding wheel brace, it doubled in length for extra leverage to undo nuts

[DiscoJeffster]

Great video

[ramblingboy42]

My Indy, has serviced thousands of cars.

He takes the wheels off every car he services and replaces them with a smidge of anti sieze on the studs then he spins up and hand torques each nut.

I dont really know how many nuts or studs he has actually torqued up over the years but I could for the sake of discussion ask him....he probably knows , he's that kind of guy , has authority to service Ferrari , so I'd guess the Ferrari owners don't and wouldn't challenge his work.

[W&KO]

My Indy, has serviced thousands of cars.

He takes the wheels off every car he services and replaces them with a smidge of anti sieze on the studs then he spins up and hand torques each nut.

I dont really know how many nuts or studs he has actually torqued up over the years but I could for the sake of discussion ask him....he probably knows , he's that kind of guy , has authority to service Ferrari , so I'd guess the Ferrari owners don't and wouldn't challenge his work.

A mate of mine uses antisieze on all of his cars, boat trailer and caravan for as long as I can remember.

[DiscoJeffster]

My Indy, has serviced thousands of cars.

He takes the wheels off every car he services and replaces them with a smidge of anti sieze on the studs then he spins up and hand torques each nut.

I dont really know how many nuts or studs he has actually torqued up over the years but I could for the sake of discussion ask him....he probably knows , he's that kind of guy , has authority to service Ferrari , so I'd guess the Ferrari owners don't and wouldn't challenge his work.

Thankfully engineers design for the lowest common denominator so it hasn’t caused him a problem

[Eric SDV6SE]

Good video and well explained. It comes down to whether the specified bolt torque is on dry or lubricated threads and if wet, then even what type of lubricant used. This is why most bolts are specified dry, as this can be related to material yield a lot easier without having to also consider friction factors of the lubricant on top of the friction factors between the threads and mating faces.

One point I noted is dry the bolt reached 60% of yield and wet it reached 90% of yield. So this is a 50% 'increase' in preload for the same bolt, not a 30% increase as stated, as the difference between 60 and 90 is 30, and 30 is half of 60. The video does show how easily bolts can be over loaded by using a thread Lubricant. More easily done if the bolt selection and torque specification is supposed to take the bolt to just below yield, as is common if designing joints to DIN. This is also why most high strength bolts are single use only. They get preloaded close to yield, the in service loads never get that high, but when undone, the bolt does not return to its unloaded length and therefore can't be reused and preloaded to the same value as its more likely to fail.

[Milton477]

Interesting & not unexpected.
I have used nickel anti seize on my un-torqued wheel nuts for 45 odd years now & have never had a failure.
Also lucky I guess.

[Arch]

In a perfect world that youtube is fine, but it isnt the entire story. It really depends on the conditions you drive your car.

I work in mines and the minerals exploration setting in high corrosion environments where a bit of anti-seize is useful and prevent snapping wheel nut studs.

its easy for that youtuber to do a bench test, but like much of the internet, it isnt the real world.

[AK83]

Yeah, nothing wrong with using anti-seize on wheel nuts.

Many reasons to do so, especially depending on your circumstances .. eg. if you live in a salty air environment near ocean .. they can rust up and snap when you remove them.

My dad had an old Inter for deliveries back in the day. Horrible thing to drive and use. Just about every time it needed wheel work(new tyres or whatever) without fail a wheel nut would be rusted on so hard the stud would snap upon trying to remove.
The problems associated with sea side living.
Having then moved out to the 'country' in the deep far outer suburbs ... never had this trouble.

For torquing up, I use a torque tube.
Got a set of 5 or 6(can't remember) .. from about 90 - 200+Nm. I don't use the LR supplied wheel brace, I use a 1/2 drive ratchet and 6 point socket with extension .. and the extension is the 120Nm torque tube. You feel it begin to twist ... torqued up .. 'good enough'.

[Eric SDV6SE]

The point being the torque and hence preload to the fastener being applied needs to be specified accordingly.

If you use the torque setting for dry threads on lubricated threads, it is likely that you are entering the elastic deformation zone of the bolt, and more likely to fail.

Similarly, if you use a torque setting for an oiled thread on a dry bolt, you will not achieve the preload required and the bolt is also likely to fail, perhaps even more so.

So if 140Nm is specified for a wheel stud (dry), if applying that same torque to a lubed thread, chances of overloading the stud are real. According to the video, potentially adding 50% more preload.

[DiscoJeffster]

I guess why people get away with it is the preload likely sits at 50% of the nut bolt combo so even with the additional preload they’re luckily within elasticity. It doesn’t make it right, it just likely means the engineers account for it when designing these things. As I said, designed for the lowest common denominator [emoji4]

[Jpdv]

I guess why people get away with it is the preload likely sits at 50% of the nut bolt combo so even with the additional preload they’re luckily within elasticity. It doesn’t make it right, it just likely means the engineers account for it when designing these things. As I said, designed for the lowest common denominator [emoji4]

I think 'lowest common denominator' is a little unfair here. I'd say 'designed for the real world with all its permutations/combinations of requirement'. As various people have said, differing conditions and situations may preclude a somewhat OCD approach to this. I am (probably like many here) old enough to have learned to drive on a car with no synchromesh, and had to gain mechanical sympathy the hard way.

A full military career reinforced this: if the Army teaches you anything, its that 'good' kit is that which will be easy to maintain and not require 'taking care of' when the situation needs you to focus on other things - its been properly designed if it can take a bit of abuse..My favourite bit of kit was probably my bayonet - no moving parts, over-engineered, and did one job only. (I still managed to break 2 of them!) It's different if you're engineering the James Webb telescope - be as pedantic about use cases as you like, because you need that precision to achieve the design objective. Do we have an epidemic of failing wheel hubs killing and injuring people? No...

In short, I've spent over 40 years taking wheels on and off vehicles, on 4 continents, in all conditions, up to and including 70 tonne MBTs. All had nominal torque settings - none failed as a result of time/lack of right kit/laziness/fatigue meaning that they just 'got a good heave on the bar' to lock them off. If the engineer and the factory's any good, and designing to be fit for purpose, the bolt will cope with a good heave, with or without lube on it. Too many other things to focus on, and most of the time I get them off by standing on the bar...I've never had a wheel or a nut come off or fail as a result. Does this make me a lowest common denominator?

[Arch]

I think 'lowest common denominator' is a little unfair here. I'd say 'designed for the real world with all its permutations/combinations of requirement'. As various people have said, differing conditions and situations may preclude a somewhat OCD approach to this. I am (probably like many here) old enough to have learned to drive on a car with no synchromesh, and had to gain mechanical sympathy the hard way.

A full military career reinforced this: if the Army teaches you anything, its that 'good' kit is that which will be easy to maintain and not require 'taking care of' when the situation needs you to focus on other things - its been properly designed if it can take a bit of abuse..My favourite bit of kit was probably my bayonet - no moving parts, over-engineered, and did one job only. (I still managed to break 2 of them!) It's different if you're engineering the James Webb telescope - be as pedantic about use cases as you like, because you need that precision to achieve the design objective. Do we have an epidemic of failing wheel hubs killing and injuring people? No...

In short, I've spent over 40 years taking wheels on and off vehicles, on 4 continents, in all conditions, up to and including 70 tonne MBTs. All had nominal torque settings - none failed as a result of time/lack of right kit/laziness/fatigue meaning that they just 'got a good heave on the bar' to lock them off. If the engineer and the factory's any good, and designing to be fit for purpose, the bolt will cope with a good heave, with or without lube on it. Too many other things to focus on, and most of the time I get them off by standing on the bar...I've never had a wheel or a nut come off or fail as a result. Does this make me a lowest common denominator?

Your experience is the difference between the real world and a bench test... which the numbers people here are promoting.

Btw, the youtuber said it was a little anti-seize - that was a lot in my experience.

[PhilipA]

I wouldn't overthink it .
The standard torque setting for a 14MM bolt/nut is .


14MM
160FT lbs
215Nm





So at 140NM you are WAAAAAY under the correct torque even.

Regards PhilipA

[BradC]

Maybe someone can do a controlled experiment. The fastener is designed to stretch under load. The torque value is designed to stretch the fastener that amount when applied with 140NM on a dry thread where the nut is located retaining a wheel (it'll stretch more or less if it's not in that precise spot).
If we had a way of reliably measuring the stretch, several tests could be done using differing lubricants to determine the appropriate torque values. It's done in industry all the time.

Now we've looked at the thread, what about the wheel? Different materials, and alloys all have differing coefficients of friction. So in theory doing up the same nut on the same thread retaining a steel wheel will be different to an alloy wheel. Is that in the manual? What about a dry thread and lubricant on the wheel/nut interface? Corrosion on the wheel? Aluminium oxide has a different coefficient of friction to clean aluminium. Is the wheel anodized?

It's more than just "dry good, lubricated bad, ugh".

[DiscoJeffster]

In all honesty I rarely use a torque wrench for anything. I’ve found over the years my hand, using the right sized tool for the job (eg 1/4 or 3/8” for a 10mm nut) means you have the right feel on the nut and when it’s tight versus overtightened and potentially stripped. I only torque things that have clearances involved like engine assembly. I do pay attention to wet and dry torques and also tensions that use angle.

I do torque my wheel nuts dry when I’m at home as I have the wrench and I get annoyed with overtightened nuts. Obviously in the bush I use the torque wrench built into my leg and if I remember I’ll redo at another opportunity. I choose to clean the threads with a wire brush and run them dry [emoji2369]

As I said, there’s enough margin of error in these things that it’s rarely an actual issue.

[Jpdv]

[QUOTE]I wouldn't overthink it /QUOTE]

Probably the best summary of this issue in the thread!

[BradC]

As I said, there’s enough margin of error in these things that it’s rarely an actual issue.

True for safety, but I've certainly worked on more than one type of vehicle where unevenly or grossly over torqued lug nuts will lead to rotor warping after a few good heat cycles.

I have several 1/2" torque wrenches around the place. They may not be incredibly accurate, but they are "close enough" and more repeatable than my elbow clicking.

[350RRC]

.........................
Now we've looked at the thread, what about the wheel? Different materials, and alloys all have differing coefficients of friction. So in theory doing up the same nut on the same thread retaining a steel wheel will be different to an alloy wheel. ...............

IME (RRC) all nuts going on studs for steel wheels have a tapered seat and nuts going on studs for aftermarket alloy wheels have a flat seat. I would not expect the 'correct' torque values to be the same for each type of wheel.

Wheel studs for RRC's have a different symbol marked on the outer end of them for alloy wheels compared with those for the early steel wheels. Pretty sure there is a difference in length.

DL

[PhilipA]

Yes the early steels wheels have a shorter thread which is designed to be flush with the top of the nut when tightened.
But as long as there is about 80% engagement it is OK.
Regards PhilipA

[John_D4]

Who lugs around a torque wrench to tighten up wheel nuts - a standard wheel brace tightened by arm until you cannot move it anymore is spot on. Never had an issue.

Actually…I do - I have a 1/2” TW in my car tool kit. I had a trailer tyre come off on our new camper trailer in its maiden voyage because the guy forgot to check the wheel nuts as part of his pre delivery check. As a result I’ve been quite religious in checking the trailer and car wheel nuts before going on a long trip ever since.

Incidentally I had no idea that 140nm was the torque value. I thought it was 120nm. Thanks everyone, I’ll wind the TW up a bit. I normally do the trailer to the same as the car.

[CrustyNoodle]

Who lugs around a torque wrench to tighten up wheel nuts - a standard wheel brace tightened by arm until you cannot move it anymore is spot on. Never had an issue.

I certainly do! Takes up very little extra space in the wheel well.

[CrustyNoodle]

...

Now we've looked at the thread, what about the wheel? Different materials, and alloys all have differing coefficients of friction. So in theory doing up the same nut on the same thread retaining a steel wheel will be different to an alloy wheel. Is that in the manual? What about a dry thread and lubricant on the wheel/nut interface? Corrosion on the wheel? Aluminium oxide has a different coefficient of friction to clean aluminium. Is the wheel anodized?

It's more than just "dry good, lubricated bad, ugh".


Don't forget the coefficient of expansion of your aluminium wheel vs the steel of the stud - that will also increase the tension on the stud and is probably why at 140NM wheels studs are very under stressed.

[AK83]

One of my fave youtubers has to be Project Farm.

His anti seize video here :
https://youtu.be/Kj-kmIbSQvk

Shows that anti seize can, but doesn't necessarily reduce the torque required for loosening nuts.

But following on from the data he got from the 'control' nuts ... and my experience with the easy to snap Inter wheels studs and the steel wheels on my RRC and bent up wheel brace, and the subsequent need to improvise with hacked tools to remove a flat in the middle of nowhere ...
A little bit less torque on removal is better than having it stuck hard when you least want it too.

So if an average of say 10-15% lower torque is needed to remove(with anti seize), there shouldn't be too much issue to add say 10% more to the required value to begin with if you use anti seize. Or just use cheaper no name anti seize
As already mentioned wheel nuts are under stressed compared to their ultimate torque rating.

[jh972]

Who lugs around a torque wrench to tighten up wheel nuts - a standard wheel brace tightened by arm until you cannot move it anymore is spot on. Never had an issue.

I certainly do. Always torque my wheel nuts, and on trailer if towing. And never lube them.

[ericdavisoz]

Here’s another YouTube video that explains it well.
How to anti-seize wheel nuts without over-cranking the hi-tensile studs | Auto Expert John Cadogan - YouTube (https://youtu.be/d7UDy7B0-m8)

[Arch]

Here’s another YouTube video that explains it well.
How to anti-seize wheel nuts without over-cranking the hi-tensile studs | Auto Expert John Cadogan - YouTube (https://youtu.be/d7UDy7B0-m8)

I enjoyed his bozo comment.

[Rick Fischer]

Hi all

I'll give you a differing slant. In the big scheme of things the tool provided by the manufacturer for tightening, undoing wheel nuts is "sorta" the correct length for manually torquing the wheel nuts, and undoing! With that tool there is little risk of over-torquing grease or no grease.

I have too many experiences with tyre fitting orgs where the wheel nuts have been torqued to the supposed manfr's specified. However I had not been able to undo them. In one instance I had to take the Deffie back and get them undone! Not a good look out in the boonies. The tyre place would not tighten them with the tool provided. (liability?) I had to do it.

Back with my Classic RR the tool had a flip handle providing a short length for tightening and long one for removing.

I have personally never lost a wheel nut and they have all come off when needed out there.

Makes your decisions and takes your chances.

Cheers
Ridk F

[BMKal]

Who lugs around a torque wrench to tighten up wheel nuts - a standard wheel brace tightened by arm until you cannot move it anymore is spot on. Never had an issue.

I don't think I even own a torque wrench - or if I do, I would struggle to find it.

The OEM Land Rover wheel brace is worthless crap - particularly if you happen to have had your wheel nuts tightened by some dickhead in a tyre service who didn't correctly count the "dugga dugga's" on his rattle gun. I have replaced the wheel nuts on my D4 with solid steel ones from Tuffant, and carry a good quality six point impact socket in the glove box, and a decent length breaker bar under the seat. I don't have any problems loosening or tightening wheel nuts when required - and I use a wire brush to clean the threads, with NO lubricant of any kind on them.

[DazzaTD5]

Without reading everyones post or whatever video is also posted...

*Yes I use a small amount of anti sieze, the spray type on the thread, centre hub, flat part where the alloy wheel touches.
*I torque wheel lugs with a torque wrench.

Why?
*Go deep dive into threads, thread holding, pitch, material, wet, dry torque settings, tensile strengths and then come back and say its a bad thing I do.
*a light coat on the face prevents the alloy wheel and the steel disc trying to become one.
*When I say a small amount I mean a small very light spray.
*Torque up the wheel lugs simply to ensure they are even and not over tight, I have corrected plenty of brake pedal pulsing simply by undoing the wheel lugs and torqueing them up.
*I have seen plenty of broken wheel studs on mine sites due to everyone nipping up wheel lugs on morning pre-starts.

[ATH]

I've always used thread grease on the wheels of every vehicle I've owned for many years and never bothered with a torque wrench until the D4 and that's just for that stupid hand/emergency brake adjusting. Never yet had a nut come undone as many of the so called engineers on various forums reckon will happen if you use lubricant.
I'm a bit like BMKal as I know the torque wrench is in the shed but not sure where and I certainly wouldn't waste room carrying it around with me.
AlanH.

[trout1105]

I use CRC (mainly to get the dirt out of the wheel nut after I drop them on the ground) and a rattle gun then tighten them up with an extension bar, What on earth is a tension wrench?[bigwhistle][biggrin]

[BradC]

What on earth is a tension wrench?[bigwhistle][biggrin]

It's a "torque wrench" and if you have to ask ....

..........

..... Because manufacturers only publish torque figures to be randomly annoying and not because they're important or relevant.

[trout1105]

It's a "torque wrench" and if you have to ask ....

..........

..... Because manufacturers only publish torque figures to be randomly annoying and not because they're important or relevant.

I do own a "Torque" wrench But I have Never bothered to use it on wheel nuts all I do is crank them up with an extension bar, drive 50/100km and give them another cranking.
This has Never let me down and I haven't busted a wheel stud yet doing this.

[101RRS]

Why do you need an extension bar - a standard wheel brace is fine. With an extension bar you run the risk of over torquing.

[Tote]

A couple of points:

Anti sieze on wheel nuts is better than replacing the studs on an RRS - one of my nuts was so rusty I needed to pierce the aluminium cover on the wheel nut and add lubricant to get it off.

Using a torque wrench and a 12 point socket is a recipe to make your stupid aluminium covered wheel nuts unusable. I just bought a new set for daughter's Jeep after one of her teenage buddies "torqued them up properly"

Regards,
Tote

[101RRS]

one of my nuts was so rusty I needed to pierce the cover and add lubricant to get off.



Really - too much information [bigwhistle]

[trout1105]

Why do you need an extension bar - a standard wheel brace is fine. With an extension bar you run the risk of over torquing.

The "Standard" wheel brace that comes with ANY car is always a POS and is bloody useless, If you like smashing your knuckles when changing a flat then by all means use the standard brace.
As long as you dont add a length of pipe to an extension bar the risk of over torquing the nuts is barely minimal unless you are exeptionaly strong/heavy.
The other advantage of an extension bar is that you can use it on many other things as well, All the standard bar is good for is as an inprovised tent peg [bigwhistle]

[101RRS]

The "Standard" wheel brace that comes with ANY car is always a POS and is bloody useless, If you like smashing your knuckles when changing a flat then by all means use the standard brace.


After over 50 years of driving I have never had an issue with standard wheel braces and not found them to be a POS - never smashed my knuckles - maybe I know how to use them correctly.

[Eric SDV6SE]

The "Standard" wheel brace that comes with ANY car is always a POS and is bloody useless, If you like smashing your knuckles when changing a flat then by all means use the standard brace.
As long as you dont add a length of pipe to an extension bar the risk of over torquing the nuts is barely minimal unless you are exeptionaly strong/heavy.
The other advantage of an extension bar is that you can use it on many other things as well, All the standard bar is good for is as an inprovised tent peg [bigwhistle]

I guess if using it as a club ro bash the wheel in aggravation it's likely to bite back.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Never yet had a nut come undone as many of the so called engineers on various forums reckon will happen if you use lubricant.
.

No thread lube and not enough torque = loose bolt /nut and it will fail or bits will fall off

Thread lube and torque applied for dry threads = overstretching the bolt and it will fail and bits will fall off.

Thread lube and correct torque for lubricated = happy days and no bits fall off.

No Thread lube and correct torque for dry threads = see 3rd point above.

one of the challenges of specifying a torque for a fastener is to consider all the applications. I suspect LR probably though about those who put Thread lube on the wheel studs and those that don't, the 140Nm is most likely a compromise to cover all variables and also so that bits don't fall off.

I'm glad I have a few torque wrenches and use them quite a bit, I wonder if the same comments made here would appear if talking about tightening main bearing caps on a 2.7 or 3.0 engine block...

[trout1105]

After over 50 years of driving I have never had an issue with standard wheel braces and not found them to be a POS - never smashed my knuckles - maybe I know how to use them correctly.

So you think that these are the bees knees do you?
Personally I think they are bastards of things.
178062

[Jpdv]

I wonder if the same comments made here would appear if talking about tightening main bearing caps on a 2.7 or 3.0 engine block...

You are absolutely right in my case... I'm in the 'have never torqued wheel nuts in 45 years of driving' camp, and happy with my practice based on not being dead yet, or. having a succession of wheel missiles hurtle expensively from my vehicles. But I'd always torque bolts on expensive, complex, and 'hard to see easily every day' bits and pieces like transmission and engine components. The thing is, they are absolutely precision bits of engineering that will pay you back for sloppy treatment.

Without getting flamed to death here, wheel nuts and the hub are not at the same level. We used to regularly do an exercise in the military of putting a wheel back on a landrover with the nuts and jack missing (a test of initiative and strength). The solution was to remove a nut from each of the other wheels, and have 3 blokes lift the affected corner while their mate slipped the wheel on. All 4 wheels then had less than the complete set of nuts, but the vehicle (with 3 or 4 untorqued but heaved tight nuts on its wheels) could be (and was) driven to a 'safe' location... No one died doing this.

Ironically, this thread, and the fact that LR ownership is a fun journey into DIY mechanical games, (so my shed and tools are getting a good workout), means that I may use the torque wrench next time - more to see how 140 compares to my usual 'heave' than anything else...

[Pippin]

You are absolutely right in my case... I'm in the 'have never torqued wheel nuts in 45 years of driving' camp, and happy with my practice based on not being dead yet, or. having a succession of wheel missiles hurtle expensively from my vehicles. But I'd always torque bolts on expensive, complex, and 'hard to see easily every day' bits and pieces like transmission and engine components. The thing is, they are absolutely precision bits of engineering that will pay you back for sloppy treatment.

Without getting flamed to death here, wheel nuts and the hub are not at the same level. We used to regularly do an exercise in the military of putting a wheel back on a landrover with the nuts and jack missing (a test of initiative and strength). The solution was to remove a nut from each of the other wheels, and have 3 blokes lift the affected corner while their mate slipped the wheel on. All 4 wheels then had less than the complete set of nuts, but the vehicle (with 3 or 4 untorqued but heaved tight nuts on its wheels) could be (and was) driven to a 'safe' location... No one died doing this.

Ironically, this thread, and the fact that LR ownership is a fun journey into DIY mechanical games, (so my shed and tools are getting a good workout), means that I may use the torque wrench next time - more to see how 140 compares to my usual 'heave' than anything else... After many years of using various nasty wheel braces I use a torque wrench on my Discovery's its so much easier anyway and you know you've got it right. I'll be taking a torque wrench to the tyre shop next time after having most of my nuts destroyed by a gorilla with a rattle gun. This nutty debate has probably run its course.[smilebigeye]

[BradC]

Ironically, this thread, and the fact that LR ownership is a fun journey into DIY mechanical games, (so my shed and tools are getting a good workout), means that I may use the torque wrench next time - more to see how 140 compares to my usual 'heave' than anything else...

I was surprised at how little of a "heave" 140NM is. I also decided not to take it back to the place that seemingly used a 3/4" rattle gun to do the nuts up that tight I needed to jump up and down on a 1M cheater bar to get them loose. At 140NM they're nice and easy to work with, even with a little bit of corrosion.

[Eric SDV6SE]

This nutty debate has probably run its course.[smilebigeye]

I'm all torqued out, nutting more to say, in fact this thread has nearly caused a sense of humour failure..

[shanegtr]

My thoughts - 140Nm is probably a figure that is been set to be safe for both dry and lubricated. A M16 bolt with course thread (2mm) and 10.9 grade (typical wheel stud grade I believe) has a torque of around 350Nm and that's lightly oiled figures too. Dropping down to an 8.8 and its still 250Nm. The disco thread pitch is 1.25 I believe so the fine pitch should lower the torque required for the same clamping force, and I can't find any specific info on that thread pitch through various fastener manufactures. .
Metric Bolts - Tightening Torques (https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/metric-bolts-maximum-torque-d_2054.html)

[John_D4]

Whilst reading this thread I’ve been thinking ‘140 is pretty high, I’m not sure if my 1/2” TW goes that high’ - I’ve got it set at 100.

Apparently there’s a difference between NM and Foot LB! That’s probs the reason why I’ve had it set at 100. Good thing I rechecked before torquing the wheel nuts today!

[Mike57]

Lots of good discussion here but my initial observation was that LR put the anti sieze on my studs either in the factory (most likely) or at the dealership before it was delivered to me. I was wondering is anyone else found this when they took delivery of their new car. I am well aware of the differences in torque settings required for wet and dry threads. I was wondering if the 140NM was the specification for wet or for dry threads. I think the takeaway from this discussion is that the 140NM is probably a compromise torque that is going to work for either wet or dry threads.

[Jeffoir]

Whilst reading this thread I’ve been thinking ‘140 is pretty high, I’m not sure if my 1/2” TW goes that high’ - I’ve got it set at 100.

Apparently there’s a difference between NM and Foot LB! That’s probs the reason why I’ve had it set at 100. Good thing I rechecked before torquing the wheel nuts today!

One Foot Pound = 1.356 Newton Metres
So your 100 foot pound of torque on your studs was spot on to achieve the recommended spec of 140 Newton Metres.

[Eric SDV6SE]

One Foot Pound = 1.356 Newton Metres
So your 100 foot pound of torque on your studs was spot on to achieve the recommended spec of 140 Newton Metres.

Actually 3.1% low. Most spring type torque wrenches are +/-4% accurate, so possibly 7% low. I normally round up if in lb-ft. Luckily all my torque wrenches are in NM as well.