Discovery 3 ownership so far......

[theh33d]

Hello All
I just wanted to do a write up on my ownership of my D3.
I have noticed a few people asking the question of what to look out for and I thought, well this is what my experience has been like so far with my D3.
Sorry if it's too long winded, but it maybe useful for someone new to the Discovery way of life.

I purchased my D3 4 1/2 years ago with 92,000km's (full service history) currently sitting with 175,000km's
Before I purchased my D3, I carried out many hours going through this forum to identify any major things to look out for ( I never read any diff issues?) there is a wealth of information here and there are always owners of these vehicles with answers to questions you may have.

Details:
Model: Discovery 3 (SE)
Year of manufacturer: 2006
Engine: 4.0ltr V6 (Petrol)
Modifications when purchased: Red Arc trailer brake

Since owning the D3 I have carried out some small modifications to suit our current use for the D3, I will list these below.
When I purchased the D3 the previous owner had purchased a warranty from the car dealer they had purchased the D3 from.
This would prove to be useful....

I will start off with the negatives.

So during my test drive of the D3 I picked up on a whine, which I thought was a wheel bearing. Unfortunately this turned out to be the front diff, now this was covered under the warranty.
The company that carried out the rebuild advised that the paint inside the diff casing was observed loose inside the diff (paint flakes) not sure if this caused the bearing issue inside the diff but anyway this was all covered and cost me nothing to repair.
After getting the D3 back and driving it for a few weeks I noticed another whine coming from the drive train and during a scheduled service the garaged advised that the rear diff was the source of the whine noise. Again this was covered under the waranty, but not a good start to Land Rover ownership as this all took place within the first 6 months of ownership.

The next two years of ownership had proven trouble free apart from a couple of error codes which were cleared with no issues reoccurring.
I then had to change over the battery due to the one of the error codes (HDC) coming back and the dash lighting up like a Christmas tree, the new battery fixed this issue and no more error codes on this issue.

I did have the whine of death from the EPB module and the brakes locking up (manual released) and continued to use the D3 until I resolved the issue. I looked into the EPB module replacement (not covered under warranty) but the cost to replace this made me look at other options. I went with the replacement internal drive cods which I had shipped from the UK, I can recall the cost of this kit but it was less than $100 I think. I had my local mechanic carry out the rebuild, mainly due to the location of the module and the fact that I have small garage where I can't raise my D3 high enough to get into the module. Since the rebuild I have had no issues.

Currently I have two issues with the D3.
My lower control arms require replacing, looking to have this done shortly.
I also have an annoying suspension warning light (amber) which clears itself once the car is turned off and then on again. This warning comes up randomly and does not effect the use of the suspension and I have no vehicle height drop over night. This has been going on too long but can't get a clear answer on how to solve it. The compressor has been treated to new dryer beads (can't recall what they are called)

Yes, I need to buy a code reader, but don't want to spend the big dollars for the IiD tool and not sure about the cheaper ones.

So that's my issues I have had with the D3 over the past 4 1/2 years, in my opinion not bad at all, but if I had to have paid for the diff issues that would have been $5,000+ out of my pocket.

Now for the positives on the Discovery.

I haven't owned a vehicle like it, I mean this in the way it drives on and off road. The refinement and visibility are amazing
I haven't carried out any heavy off roading, rock crawling, etc. But I have used the D3 many times on sand and as long as you keep those tyres pressure low (I run 14psi) with sand mode engaged and DSC off, I don't think you can get bogged, well I haven't yet but there is always a first.
The load carrying ability for both passengers and stuff!!! is incredible.

I personally love the look of the Discovery 3/4 and find myself spotting Discovery's on the road and when they are parked up, it's a Land Rover thing.

Below is what I have done to my D3 so far and what I still want to do.

Installed
Engine Remap:
Carried out by Autocode in Perth (European Car Service | Performance Tuning | Diagnostic Fault Finding (http://www.autocode.com.au))
Gearbox:
Sump pan change out at 100,000km's
Tyres:
Hankook Dynapro A/T - Second set
Roof Platform:
Rhino rack with back bone system
Awning:
ARB 2m x 2.5m
Rear fit out (budget fit out, removed third row seating)
XTM drawers
XTM fridge slide and cook/prep tables
Power:
BainTech battery box system (100 Ah)
Traxide isolater, still to be fitted
Trailer brake:
Red arc system, not sure of model.

Possible installs
Raised air intake:
To be honest, more for looks over necessity.
Light bar:
Possibly install this below the roof platform which may increase or decrease the wind noise?
Work lights:
Fitted onto the roof platform and possibly some LED lights for the rear area.
Entertainment:
Looking at changing the head unit for something with Apple car play over the current Bluetooth radio transmitter.

Running costs.

Fuel consumption:
Trip computer - 14.3ltr/100km
Highway - 12.5 > 13.5ltr/100km
Urban - 15 > 16ltr/100km
Towing (2 ton camper) 19+ltr/100km
Beach driving - 20+ltr/100km

Servicing:
Standard service, around $500 with no repairs. This is my local none LR mechanic who is a decent bloke.

Parts:
Do you're homework and do the searching as there are plenty of suppliers within Australia and many more overseas, especially the UK.

[PerthDisco]

Good work. I’m sure the suspension fault will be easy to resolve. Get a cheap code reader that at least can read and clear. Try OBD2 With Bluetooth iPhone & Android – OBD2 Australia (https://obd2australia.com.au/product/obd-aus-bluetooth-scan-tool-obd2-scan-tool/) - good thing is it works on all car brands.

The early D3s had a known fault with the diff paint which was soon corrected and doesn’t occur on later models from about 08 onwards. Change the oil regularly as there’s not much of it.

[loanrangie]

Good work. I’m sure the suspension fault will be easy to resolve. Get a cheap code reader that at least can read and clear. Try OBD2 With Bluetooth iPhone & Android – OBD2 Australia (https://obd2australia.com.au/product/obd-aus-bluetooth-scan-tool-obd2-scan-tool/) - good thing is it works on all car brands.

The early D3s had a known fault with the diff paint which was soon corrected and doesn’t occur on later models from about 08 onwards. Change the oil regularly as there’s not much of it.

Agree on the OBD2 AU reader, works on my D3, wifes X-trail with Nissan datascan and the old mans ML350 using torque lite app.

[PeterOZ]

depending on if you have the e.diff the actuator motor can cause issues. I had about 2 years of fault codes that would pop up, get cleared and eventually come back. Replaced the actuator and so far its been good.
Did it myself, not an overly difficult job.

LCAs I need to get done soon and front diff pinion seal as its weeping.

[loanrangie]

depending on if you have the e.diff the actuator motor can cause issues. I had about 2 years of fault codes that would pop up, get cleared and eventually come back. Replaced the actuator and so far its been good.
Did it myself, not an overly difficult job.

LCAs I need to get done soon and front diff pinion seal as its weeping.

I dont think the E-dif was an option on the petrol V6.

[theh33d]

Agree on the OBD2 AU reader, works on my D3, wifes X-trail with Nissan datascan and the old mans ML350 using torque lite app.
OBD2 tool has been ordered.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Great summary.

Suspension faults most likely to be the valve blocks at each corner. You’ve changed the desiccant in the compressor, but most likely the galeries at each corner are partially blocked. There’s a really good o ring kit available from the UK and the rebuild is easy to do.

Raised air intake not only looks great but in my view extends air filter life and against water ingress. Make sure you get it professionally installed or make really sure you understand the installation process if attempting DIY.

Re a code reader, I went with the Rovacom unit over the GAPiid and have no trouble diagnosing and clearing all fault codes, before that I used a $50 eBay cheapy that also worked ok, but it was very limited and only able to clear high level codes.

your fuel economy figures are pretty good for a large 4wd petrol engined brick.

lca’s are pretty easy to diy, most on here replace the complete arm as this means you also get new ball joints and the install is much easier. Check the rear arms as well, mine were knackered at 200000km.

also, if towing often, replace the rear sway bar links with Superpro adjustable units, this tightens up the rear and makes for better handling when towing imho. I also did the fronts with Mehle HD units (larger ball joints but non adjustable) at 200,000km.

[Bulletman]

Ok so here’s my D3 ownership. 2008 tdv6 purchased in 2011 from TRS in SA after arriving there in our D2 and getting offered a swap over deal we found hard to pass up. Just finished the canning stock route in 2010 in the D2 and limped it into Lonsdale in 2011.
Had from memory the D3 32000ks on the clock , fitted with long range tank and snorkel but otherwise pretty standard 7 seat tdv6.
Times it left us stranded- 0
Times we nursed it into either getting repaired or trying to repair it - 3
-First was failed rear upper door latch- managed to remove cargo barrier via 2nd row seats to get into rear
-2nd , failed rear wheel bearing in Tasmania, the guru of all things LR, JC managed to fit us in so we could make the ferry back to the main land. 1 of the noisiest and hardest 70km drive to his workshop I have ever done
-3rd HPFP , faulted numerous times , I was working away and the boss was struggling getting by so got the only LR man in Darwin to replace, ended up also doing LPFP .
Amount of times I’ve been asked why I have a Land Rover not a land cruiser in remote plate places.. I don’t have enough fingers and toes to count correctly

Items replaced as either precaution or necessary
Oil pump - had the old style pump so changed at belt change
Front wheel bearings, tried the cheap option- don’t bother, order the timken bearings from uk and be done with it
Rear wheel bearings as mentioned
4 x air stunts and shocks
Rear upper and lower arms
Front lower arms twice
Metal gearbox sump and oil changed at maximum 50k
Belt tensioner
Idler pulley
Run seperate alternator charging line as I didn’t like the starter , alternator in 1 idea with a 400amp fuse and a 150amp alternator, all I could see was a dead short resulting in a car stranded wherever.

Items done to suit my needs
Front bar
Rear wheel carrier
Roof rack
Traxide 3 battery kit

Car gets oil changes at approx 6 months but I order my filter kits from UK with 3 extra oil filters so every time oil goes on sale I usually just do a filter and oil change, same with air cleaners and fuel filters. Don’t think I can count on fingers and toes how many times I’ve cleaned the Y piece or the MAP and MAF

Places it has taken us.
Never hesitated to jump in it and tour , done gibb river red 3 times including Kalumburu and Mitchell falls , toured east coast to Melbourne, across to tassie, back thru SA and home thru the middle to Darwin.
Done Arnhem Land , willige fish village, and lower port essington. Down to Perth and across to Denmark and valley of the giants and back home to Darwin up thru Newman and marble bar.
Plus been the wife’s daily driver who jumps in and turns the key, oblivious to anything else.

Currently towing our 3.1t house down the west coast from Darwin to Perth.

Issues I’ve had, numerous faults, most related to air suspension and living in tropics, had HPFP, park brake and a couple of odd ball ones, but 1 way or another have managed to get by with the help of a code reader and having a supply of spares.

Currently have a gearbox hunting or judder issue, annoys me as I’ve done everything to nurse this gearbox with early oil changes, but it is what it is and at 195,000ks I will see where it goes from here, currently in port headland and hopefully I can nurse it thru to Perth.

I’ve bought endless spares, whether they are needed or not depends on your viewpoint, I’m a ex commercial fisherman who spent months at a time at sea , so we carried heaps of spares , so I treat my cars no different, I have starter motor, alternator, wheel bearings, water outlet, full set of hoses, front and rear air struts, new air compressor,plus many others

Sadly for me when the time comes to move the D3 on , it won’t be a current LR as the D4 3.0 scares me and these days I actually enjoy my sleep so the worry of the 3.0 and it’s numourous issues doesn’t see my $$ going that way. They all look the same to me from the rr to the d5 and everything in between, and well the defender I think is quite ugly and for the price they are asking , there are other brands that I see will suit my needs for far less $$. I wish the defender influencer who was on here a few years back spruiking $80k was correct, I may get past the looks

I know I have a decision to make with the gearbox, but if I have to do the box and the TC and it cost say $10k it’s probaly a good option in my case seeing I have about 7k in spares . I’m sure there’s plenty I have forgotten but that’s a fair idea of my ownership.

I doubt I can walk into something close for $50k

Cheers Bulletman

[shanegtr]

Heres my cost experience with my D3 - and for a reference I compare it to my previous 80 series land cruiser

https://youtu.be/0ZhbQJG-dVI

[Bulletman]

Heres my cost experience with my D3 - and for a reference I compare it to my previous 80 series land cruiser

https://youtu.be/0ZhbQJG-dVI

Great comparison Shane, and you are correct in saying the disco had the gearbox issue and you couldn't write it off as it was an expensive repair you had to pay for.
I know many LC owners and they all say the 80 series was the most reliable, and your repair costs certainly point that out.
Cheers Bulletman

[PeterOZ]

Good write up.
I'll jog my memory on my D3 and see if I can get close.

Purchased new in 2007, delivery in August on a salary sacrifice lease.
TDV6 SE, upgraded NAV/Sound, console fridge & e.diff.

Has a lot of work done by LR as part of the lease T&Cs.

Trans steel pan.
Battery x 2.
Sets of tyres x 2
HPFP
LCA
compressor to the AMK
intercooler hose x 2
front / rear brakes & rotors
hand brake shoes


Since lease ended


LCA x 2
CVs
alternator
tyres obviously
front wheel bearings
hand brake shoes
trans flush x 2
sway bar bushes and trailing links
timing belts, idlers & tensioner
Y piece
washer bottle
Silicon intercooler hoses
serpentine belt tensioner
transplanted territory engine, suspect tensioner failure on the oil pump as it was the old style. Failed not long after timing belts done.
Front/ rear rotors upgraded to V8 size and new pads (fitting new front pads this weekend)
New radiator header tank
new air struts all round
rear e.diff motor actuator replaced
Brake light switch x 2


Things to do

Transmission needs to be done and new TC - $8k or so so nursing it as long as a I can.
LCAs need to be done soon.
park brake needs to be looked at
front brake pads due
front diff pinion seal weeping


Let me down x 2
- failed alternator day before Christmas and tried to limp home, had to get towed to a LR indie and $1500 later for a new one to be fitted
- failed engine 500m from home, towed home then to indie LR for transplant, took over 2 months to get it back.

Lots of faults that could be read, analysed & cleared using the GAP IID, it is in my glovebox and the manual sits on the seat!
Clear coat is faded on roof and roof lining sagging, I'd like to get those sorted at some point.

I still love it, its generally reliable and I can a fair bit of work myself, it is economic for fuel and as others have said there is nothing else out there I like or want to hand over big $$ for, certainly nothing in the over priced LR range.

For $50 - 100k for a new vehicle I can do a lot of repairs to the old D3.

My 2 bobs worth. [bigwhistle]

[theh33d]

Great summary.

Suspension faults most likely to be the valve blocks at each corner. You’ve changed the desiccant in the compressor, but most likely the galeries at each corner are partially blocked. There’s a really good o ring kit available from the UK and the rebuild is easy to do.

Raised air intake not only looks great but in my view extends air filter life and against water ingress. Make sure you get it professionally installed or make really sure you understand the installation process if attempting DIY.

Re a code reader, I went with the Rovacom unit over the GAPiid and have no trouble diagnosing and clearing all fault codes, before that I used a $50 eBay cheapy that also worked ok, but it was very limited and only able to clear high level codes.

your fuel economy figures are pretty good for a large 4wd petrol engined brick.

lca’s are pretty easy to diy, most on here replace the complete arm as this means you also get new ball joints and the install is much easier. Check the rear arms as well, mine were knackered at 200000km.

also, if towing often, replace the rear sway bar links with Superpro adjustable units, this tightens up the rear and makes for better handling when towing imho. I also did the fronts with Mehle HD units (larger ball joints but non adjustable) at 200,000km.

Hello Eric

The fuel economy on the old girl is variable as you will know, I don't usually drive the D3 in heavy traffic (daily driver) so my urban figures will be lower than other owners for sure. I usually get around the 500>550km out of a tank, that's driving to the speed limits.

I have a seal kit for the suspension control modules but haven't installed this as my D3 rarely sags over night, she will drop some when I'm away at work (3 weeks) I may just do the change out when I get home.

I will look to order the LCA's when I get home, there is a really good thread on here with a break down of the beat bush type to go with when I change out the whole LCA.

[nixo]

Good write up - thanks.

I've owned a 4.0 for about the same time you have but got mine at 230 and now at 300.

The bad: the worst car I've owned reliability wise (haven't had this much trouble with all my other Japanese cars put together)

The not so bad: compared to other D3/4 owners, my issues have been quite minor.

The good: the nicest car i've owned. besides reliability nothing comes close (includes a V6 Amarok)

The terrible: I'm unable to pull the pin on a non D3/4. Genuinely stuck. Would love something newer and more reliable (and something that chews less fuel), but nothing out there. Prado closest, but every time I think of all the things the Prado is missing that the D3 has and how ugly the Prado is inside and out I just think I'll keep driving the D3 some more.

Issues:
- suspension - punctured airbag (this is totally fine really. 250k out of a shock is very good, but diagnosing was not easy) [resolved]
- xmas light dash [unresolved]
- seemingly arbitrary F error - clears if turn off/on [resolved]
- dash cluster electronics gone - flickers on and off at will [unresolved]
- remote door locking stopped - cost a bit to diagnose but didn't repair and fixed itself eventually [resolved]
- electronics module behind the battery was causing electrical issues and made car underivable. fixed myself by taking it out and getting rid of some corrosion (but was a whole saga including getting carted away to LR specialist) [resolved]
- engine light on - not sure the cause yet [unresolved]

[Dagilmo]

Hi All,

I know this is titled D3 ownership but I thought I'd add my experience. Also to add a little balance to the experiences.

The D3: Owned for 5 years. Bought with circa 185k on the clock and sold with circa 290k

It never let us down and we drove it all over the state.

Cost a bit over that time as I did a number of maintenance items that you'd expect at those kms. Brakes, lower control arm bushes (bought the on car press kit so only the cost of bushes) EGR cooler blanking. Two front air bags. Alternator and battery. Front wheel bearing. Rear upper arms. Rear prop shaft. Transmission service.

Did a lot that stuff myself so not too expensive.

Loved it but wanted something newer and with a bit more power so didn't hesitate to look for a D4.

The D4: Owned 3 years. Bought with 70 km on the clock. Now has 135k.

Significant step up from the D3 in all aspects.

Never let us down.

I do 6 month services myself. Circa $120/service and a leisurely hour in the driveway. In addition to servicing, I've replace rear brake pads and lower control arm bushes (once again with on car press so circa $70.00eac bush) and done a transmission service.

It's due for belts this year.

I don't worry about crank shaft issues as it will either happen or it won't, I service adequately so have have no more control than that. I just get in and drive it. NB: Last trip 1500 kms to east of Esperance at Easter with camper. Didn't miss a beat.

Super car and I still love driving it everyday.

Well that's my two cents worth....

[PerthDisco]

Good write up - thanks.

I've owned a 4.0 for about the same time you have but got mine at 230 and now at 300.

The bad: the worst car I've owned reliability wise (haven't had this much trouble with all my other Japanese cars put together)

The not so bad: compared to other D3/4 owners, my issues have been quite minor.

The good: the nicest car i've owned. besides reliability nothing comes close (includes a V6 Amarok)

The terrible: I'm unable to pull the pin on a non D3/4. Genuinely stuck. Would love something newer and more reliable (and something that chews less fuel), but nothing out there. Prado closest, but every time I think of all the things the Prado is missing that the D3 has and how ugly the Prado is inside and out I just think I'll keep driving the D3 some more.

Issues:
- suspension - punctured airbag (this is totally fine really. 250k out of a shock is very good, but diagnosing was not easy) [resolved]
- xmas light dash [unresolved]
- seemingly arbitrary F error - clears if turn off/on [resolved]
- dash cluster electronics gone - flickers on and off at will [unresolved]
- remote door locking stopped - cost a bit to diagnose but didn't repair and fixed itself eventually [resolved]
- electronics module behind the battery was causing electrical issues and made car underivable. fixed myself by taking it out and getting rid of some corrosion (but was a whole saga including getting carted away to LR specialist) [resolved]
- engine light on - not sure the cause yet [unresolved]

I heard on talkback radio yesterday Consumer Protection warning WA listeners about the probability of flood damaged cars from QLD/NSW being dumped in WA. This list reads like text book problems from a car that got wet previously.

[nixo]

I heard on talkback radio yesterday Consumer Protection warning WA listeners about the probability of flood damaged cars from QLD/NSW being dumped in WA. This list reads like text book problems from a car that got wet previously.

Interesting and quite possible that's the case. If it is it must have been fresh as it's not rusting (thank god).

i've noticed an uptick in cars for sale in WA and was wondering why. Talks for the tip.

[PerthDisco]

Interesting and quite possible that's the case. If it is it must have been fresh as it's not rusting (thank god).

i've noticed an uptick in cars for sale in WA and was wondering why. Talks for the tip.

The advice was, when buying from a dealer, was that it is NOT illegal for them not to tell you it was flood damaged but it IS illegal for them to not tell you if you ask them if it was flood damaged.

The other tip was to check the glovebox as detailers generally miss cleaning that out.

[nixo]

The advice was, when buying from a dealer, was that it is NOT illegal for them not to tell you it was flood damaged but it IS illegal for them to not tell you if you ask them if it was flood damaged.

The other tip was to check the glovebox as detailers generally miss cleaning that out.

The more I think about the floods and selling off cars the more I think that buying a second hand car from WA or from QLD or NSW is now a very risky business. Reckon it'd be really difficult for the average punter to tell if the car had water damage or not. And, maybe the car buyers in WA (or anywhere else) are not asking the question themselves - ask me no questions and I'll tell you no lies.

And thinking more about issues on my vehicle - these are very common issues so maybe not flooded water damage at all. The Transfer Case ECU Module is really quite high up but the design is not very well waterproofed - splashing water from the road can easily get up in there and corrode the pins (and commonly does). The remote locking issue could stem from the KVM and it's known issue water can get in there from the top (esp from sunroof apparently). The cluster issue is so big entire industries have formed around it in the UK. It's possible it was water damage, but I really think I'd have seen evidence of it somewhere - whenever I've opened up an area of the vehicle like under the door sills - it's been immaculate in there... wiring is clean as. I think it's much more likely that it's LR poor electronics design and QA. Ultimately hard for me to tell... would need an expert to investigate.

[PerthDisco]

The more I think about the floods and selling off cars the more I think that buying a second hand car from WA or from QLD or NSW is now a very risky business. Reckon it'd be really difficult for the average punter to tell if the car had water damage or not. And, maybe the car buyers in WA (or anywhere else) are not asking the question themselves - ask me no questions and I'll tell you no lies.

And thinking more about issues on my vehicle - these are very common issues so maybe not flooded water damage at all. The Transfer Case ECU Module is really quite high up but the design is not very well waterproofed - splashing water from the road can easily get up in there and corrode the pins (and commonly does). The remote locking issue could stem from the KVM and it's known issue water can get in there from the top (esp from sunroof apparently). The cluster issue is so big entire industries have formed around it in the UK. It's possible it was water damage, but I really think I'd have seen evidence of it somewhere - whenever I've opened up an area of the vehicle like under the door sills - it's been immaculate in there... wiring is clean as. I think it's much more likely that it's LR poor electronics design and QA. Ultimately hard for me to tell... would need an expert to investigate.

Other than someone high pressure washing behind battery or getting a footwell leak via blocked sunroof drain or poor windscreen replacement or mice attack electrical gremlins are very rare (thank you Mr Ford).

Same for console failures they are not as common as engine failures.

High humidity areas or torrential rain generate different problems i.e. wheel bearings than you see in other areas of Australia.

Regards water damage imagine the amount of cars in basement car parks that were flooded up to the door handles. I’m hearing that hire cars are expensive and rare in QLD as they lost literally car parks full of near new cars so they dump them “before” any electrical gremlins show up.

[nixo]

Other than someone high pressure washing behind battery or getting a footwell leak via blocked sunroof drain or poor windscreen replacement or mice attack electrical gremlins are very rare (thank you Mr Ford).

Same for console failures they are not as common as engine failures.

High humidity areas or torrential rain generate different problems i.e. wheel bearings than you see in other areas of Australia.

Regards water damage imagine the amount of cars in basement car parks that were flooded up to the door handles. I’m hearing that hire cars are expensive and rare in QLD as they lost literally car parks full of near new cars so they dump them “before” any electrical gremlins show up.

Thanks for the comments PD. Created a poll on a FB group asking about water and electrical issues and 90% of respondents (74) said they've never had any issues and many had it deep in water crossings, so happy to accept water+electrical issues as rare. Which, means mine may be suffering from water damage (would explain a few things).


Same for console failures they are not as common as engine failures.

Oh dear. Good news for consoles. Bad news for engines. I just don't seem to be able to shake the crank/bearing failure thing. Every time I convince myself there's no better vehicle and I should upgrade to a D4 (like right now), I get reminded of the high number of engine failures and my mind turns to the hideous but reliable Prado.

[josh.huber]

Thanks for the comments PD. Created a poll on a FB group asking about water and electrical issues and 90% of respondents (74) said they've never had any issues and many had it deep in water crossings, so happy to accept water+electrical issues as rare. Which, means mine may be suffering from water damage (would explain a few things).



Oh dear. Good news for consoles. Bad news for engines. I just don't seem to be able to shake the crank/bearing failure thing. Every time I convince myself there's no better vehicle and I should upgrade to a D4 (like right now), I get reminded of the high number of engine failures and my mind turns to the hideous but reliable Prado.

While in reality is a hard fight to have, uncle has a Prado. It's had two trips on the flat bed to my none. It's allot newer and lower k's. While I share the crank fear, the rest is a fair fight

[PerthDisco]

I imagine the stock of water damaged vehicles in NSW & QLD is increasing daily. The Betoota Advocate nailed it.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220707/ef14f2b7928cba738b6d61d07c093d77.jpg

[discomatt69]

Thanks for the comments PD. Created a poll on a FB group asking about water and electrical issues and 90% of respondents (74) said they've never had any issues and many had it deep in water crossings, so happy to accept water+electrical issues as rare. Which, means mine may be suffering from water damage (would explain a few things).



Oh dear. Good news for consoles. Bad news for engines. I just don't seem to be able to shake the crank/bearing failure thing. Every time I convince myself there's no better vehicle and I should upgrade to a D4 (like right now), I get reminded of the high number of engine failures and my mind turns to the hideous but reliable Prado.

I would rather live with the possibility of crank failure and enjoy the car than live with a Playdo every day, I couldn't even begin to imagine the pain of towing a van around for 3 months in a Prado

[350RRC]

......................., I couldn't even begin to imagine the pain of towing a van around for 3 months in a Prado

Or even a week, even with anything else....................[thumbsupbig][bigrolf][biggrin][bigwhistle]

cheers, DL

[veebs]

I drove a Prado from one end of Perth to the other, without a trailer, and I was done with it. The fanbois are welcome to them, but i'll stick with my ancient Landie thankyou.

[WhiteD3]

I had my D3 SE V6 for 4 years and 100,000km. My first disco and I loved the car even with the niggles it had.

Fuel economy (what's the opposite of economy?) though was dreadful. The best I could get around town was 18 and that was with a feather foot. On sand was close to 30!

But....at the time of purchase a TDV6 was 18k more so the math (if not the range) worked a treat.

[scarry]

I would rather live with the possibility of crank failure and enjoy the car than live with a Playdo every day, I couldn't even begin to imagine the pain of towing a van around for 3 months in a Prado

Comparing a Plado with a D3/4 is like comparing apples and oranges.

Completely different types of vehicles.

The LC200,or 300, is what a D3/4 needs to be compared to.

[discomatt69]

Comparing a Plado with a D3/4 is like comparing apples and oranges.

Completely different types of vehicles.

The LC200,or 300, is what a D3/4 needs to be compared to.

Is it? I have heard others say that but IMO when comparing LR to Toyota products a Freelander or Disco sport is equivalent to Rave, Disco is equivalent to Prado and RR is equivalent to 200/300

Even if comparing Disco to 200 the 200 is roomier inside, the Sahara has much better seats but overall the Disco when going and not broken down ( which touch wood has never happened to me) is a heaps better 4wd.
Friends of ours have a 200, great car, but even with full Icon suspension upgrades which include the adjustable arms and re designed control arms to suit the lift and adjustable remote reservoir shocks does not handle as well as a D4 with standard everything

[scarry]

Is it? I have heard others say that but IMO when comparing LR to Toyota products a Freelander or Disco sport is equivalent to Rave, Disco is equivalent to Prado and RR is equivalent to 200/300

Even if comparing Disco to 200 the 200 is roomier inside, the Sahara has much better seats but overall the Disco when going and not broken down ( which touch wood has never happened to me) is a heaps better 4wd.
Friends of ours have a 200, great car, but even with full Icon suspension upgrades which include the adjustable arms and re designed control arms to suit the lift and adjustable remote reservoir shocks does not handle as well as a D4 with standard everything

Had the D4 for almost 10yrs,200 for almost two,so have a good idea what they are like,and how comparable they are.Size wise they are very similar.Which is "better" is debatable.One definitely outsold the other by a massive margin.

Brother had a Prado for 15yrs,just replaced it for another.

I wouldn't compare a RR to an LC200.They are not even similar.RR is an expensive(up well over the $200K mark) purpose built luxury vehicle,designed for a completely different market to any model LC200.

Sure a vehicle with IS on all corners,and with EAS should handle better than a vehicle on coils and runs an IS front,solid on rear.
Yes the seats in the 200 are way more comfortable than any LR i have ever had.
And also,they dont handle too bad,particularly the models with KDSS.

Noting they are not racing cars[wink11]

[nixo]

Comparing a Plado with a D3/4 is like comparing apples and oranges.

Completely different types of vehicles.

The LC200,or 300, is what a D3/4 needs to be compared to.
have to disagree there. in terms of positioning/price/size 3/4 disco would have been positioned with prado and pajero. pajero is no more and D5 now well into luxury price bracket, leaving the prado the only one left in that bracket (all the ute based wagons are entering that space but they can’t compare as they’re utes with an enclosure chucked on the back - prado is really the only 4x4 wagon designed from ground up as a wagon in that segment)

maybe disco towing more like lc200, but other than that think prado can be compared - 7 seat 4x4 wagon. if you’re not going to tow dangerously heavy things then prado would certainly be in the mix.

EDIT: should include the jeep grand cherokee and probably the old patrol y61. jeep still an option (although it seems to be the worst made jeep of all) and y61 still a good vehicle, but y62 now a behemoth like the big cruiser.