Correct battery for 2011 tdv6 D4

[CraigE]

Hi all,
What is the correct battery for a 2011 TDV6 2.7? Seems to be a lot of conflicting information on whether it is classed as a smart alternator unit or just a variable voltage unit and whether a stop start battery is required..
Current Battery is a Supercharge MF88H 900CCA 90AH so not an AGM but maintenance free wet cell.
I amd getting mixed results from battery websites quoting quite different wet cell maintenance free batteries or Stop Start Batteries such as Supercharge MF88HSS 850cca 92AH or SSB SS88Ti 1100cca 95AH or the VartaG14 595901.
Now do these cars need a stop start battery? As they are a good $200 dearer than a maintenance free one only.
I know the later models do require the start stop battery but seems to be some confusion around the 2.7 tdv6.
No issue going to an AGM start stop battery but want to make sure I am doing the right thing either way.
Oh for the simple days of just having to figure out battery dimensions and pole orientation.

[DiscoDB]

Craig - at just $375 delivered for an SSB SS88Ti you may as well just get an AGM stop start battery.

When used in non-stop start applications, SSB extend the warranty from 24 months to 36 months.

Edit: If the 2.7 D4 is like the D3, the original battery would have been a Calcium type from either Varta or Bosch.

[scarry]

What DiscoDB said,the original battery was a standard wet cell.

When they failed,LR,under warranty was replacing them with AGM.

The vehicle doesnt have a BMS,and i am pretty sure no smart alternator either.

Tim may chime in with more info.

[loanrangie]

What DiscoDB said,the original battery was a standard wet cell.

When they failed,LR,under warranty was replacing them with AGM.

The vehicle doesnt have a BMS,and i am pretty sure no smart alternator either.

Tim may chime in with more info.I thought that all D4s would have a BMS ?

[scarry]

I thought that all D4s would have a BMS ?

Only 3.0L from memory,not 2.7.

[drivesafe]

I thought that all D4s would have a BMS ?
2.7 D4 actually runs D3 algorithms but all D3 alternators have a SMART type operation. Just not as advanced as the D4.

While the D3 charging system can run up to 15.0v You should still be able to use the SSB AGM cranking battery as it will tolerate up to 15.0v safely.

[drivesafe]

While slightly off topic, can anyone supply reliable voltage figures for a D3 or 2.7 D4, showing the lowest voltage the alternator operates at?

Reason I ask, when I had my D3, more than 14 years ago now, I remember seeing voltages down to as low as 13.4v but do not remember ever seeing anything lower.

I specifically remember the 13.4v as this was a particularly low operating voltage back then.

Again the reason I ask, is that back then I did not have the Data Logging gear I now have and could not monitor the voltage all the time, and I am hoping someone has something like a BM2 Bluetooth Battery Monitor setup on their D3, so we can see just how low the voltage goes under normal use.

If the D3 voltage does not go below 13.4v, you may actually be able to use both a lithium auxiliary battery and a lithium cranking battery, charged directly from the D3 alternator.

[scarry]

My 2.7 D4 generally sat around 13.9V,maybe 14.0V once or twice.

I cant remember ever seeing it any higher,but did see it around 13.5V at times.
That was using a voltage readout device in the cig socket.

[loanrangie]

While slightly off topic, can anyone supply reliable voltage figures for a D3 or 2.7 D4, showing the lowest voltage the alternator operates at?

Reason I ask, when I had my D3, more than 14 years ago now, I remember seeing voltages down to as low as 13.4v but do not remember ever seeing anything lower.

I specifically remember the 13.4v as this was a particularly low operating voltage back then.

Again the reason I ask, is that back then I did not have the Data Logging gear I now have and could not monitor the voltage all the time, and I am hoping someone has something like a BM2 Bluetooth Battery Monitor setup on their D3, so we can see just how low the voltage goes under normal use.

If the D3 voltage does not go below 13.4v, you may actually be able to use both a lithium auxiliary battery and a lithium cranking battery, charged directly from the D3 alternator.Lowest I've seen is 13.2 and highest 14.5.

[drivesafe]

Lowest I've seen is 13.2 and highest 14.5.

Thanks loanrangie.

As long as the voltage does not drop below 13.2v, this would be the absolute minimum voltage for running lithium batteries directly from the alternator.

[scarry]

Thanks loanrangie.

As long as the voltage does not drop below 13.2v, this would be the absolute minimum voltage for running lithium batteries directly from the alternator.

Tim,off topic,how do they go with LC200 as it sits pretty low most of the time,under 13.5V?
There are heaps running around with dual lithiums and no booster diode?

[drivesafe]

Tim,off topic,how do they go with LC200 as it sits pretty low most of the time,under 13.5V?
There are heaps running around with dual lithiums and no booster diode?
Hi Paul and this is part of the problem.

Most vehicles today have some form of SMART alternator operation, where the vehicle’s electronics monitors the cranking battery in some form.

BUT Toyota’s do NOT have SMART alternator operation.

They have a much simpler Variable Voltage operation, which does not actually monitor the battery.

Toyota’s Variable Voltage operation will accomodate the use of lithium batteries.

But any vehicle equipped with SMART alternator operation, unless you can turn off, disable the SMART function, you can not use a lithium cranking battery and must use a DC/DC device to charge any lithium auxiliary batteries.

To date, I have not come across any means to deactivate the SMART alternator function in any late model Land Rovers.