Crappy Coolant

[Roadrunner230]

I have over the last three years brought repco Red OAT coolant to put in my Disco 2 TD5 and have nothing but trouble with something eating anyway the engine oil cooler from the water side. Tested for Parasitical currant draw and nothing detected either off or engine running. Have used both OEM or cheap Chinese version of the cooler and both are lasting less than 12 months with the same outcome. Repco blames not using the correct water ( have used both carbon filter tank water and town water) and that another company make the coolant for them. Rang the company and on there web site they say you can use either de-mineralised water or town water. In 40 years as a mechanic I have never seen this happen. Has anyone got any ideas. Have photos of both the 1st one and the 3rd one new and buggered. Sorry the second one was the same as the last. Changing them is not the problem but the cost and the pain in the butt cleaning is a problem.

These 4 are the last episode with this as a new one below 10 months
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[laney]

This to me looks like cross contamination where different coolants have reached adversely to each other if I were you I would replace all hoses flush the system with a good radiator cleaner and refill with a quality coolant not Chinese or Repco just my thoughts.
Phil

[johnp38]

I'm running demineralised water in mine since I did the head late last year.

Much easier to see what's floating around in there.

Eventually I will put in the Tectalloy green concentrate, which is supposedly effective with tap water at reduced change intervals, but I always do my cars with demineralised water and have plenty in the garage and under the sink for the steam iron too. The red stuff in every car I have had with it in has always leaked and crusted, always end up flushing them out and using the Tectalloy after a period of clear water to make sure it was flushed properly.

If you can find a radiator place with a dedicated coolant flushing machine and an operator who will hook it up properly (remove thermostat and individual hook ups to block, heater and emission gear) you will be amazed at the crap that comes out.

My 5 cents worth (your valuation of my currency may be different)

[PhilipA]

That is amazing!
I have never seen reaction like that.
I use Nulon Longlife red in my 2002 TD5 and as you say it leaks and crusts then stops leaking.
I also add some Redline Water Wetter and also use demineralised water.
I have had 2 occasions to look inside the cooling system and both times there was absolutely no corrosion. Once was changing the radiator for no other reason than it was 15years old and it was spotless inside, and once the water pump as again it was very old and I was losing about 20-30Mil of water every year and it was also spotless..

Previously My 1991 RRC was similarly super clean inside. I had the radiator rodded and resealed (after 9 years)before a big trip to The Kimberley and the radiator place said it was clean inside.

I suspect the water has a lot to do with it. I once met a bloke in WA who had an 80 series and his new genuine Toyota core was leaking after one year. The dealer had apparently used Karratha town water.
I cannot imagine that there would be much difference between coolant brands so it is pretty mystifying.
Regards PhilipA
PPS a friend had a oil cooler failure which filled the cooling system with oil and he ran washing up detergent through to clean up the cooling system. Did you do similar ? If so it could be interaction between the detergent and coolant.

[Discosux]

Lack of coolant flow?

[Roadrunner230]

That is amazing!
I have never seen reaction like that.
I use Nulon Longlife red in my 2002 TD5 and as you say it leaks and crusts then stops leaking.
I also add some Redline Water Wetter and also use demineralised water.
I have had 2 occasions to look inside the cooling system and both times there was absolutely no corrosion. Once was changing the radiator for no other reason than it was 15years old and it was spotless inside, and once the water pump as again it was very old and I was losing about 20-30Mil of water every year and it was also spotless..

Previously My 1991 RRC was similarly super clean inside. I had the radiator rodded and resealed (after 9 years)before a big trip to The Kimberley and the radiator place said it was clean inside.

I suspect the water has a lot to do with it. I once met a bloke in WA who had an 80 series and his new genuine Toyota core was leaking after one year. The dealer had apparently used Karratha town water.
I cannot imagine that there would be much difference between coolant brands so it is pretty mystifying.
Regards PhilipA
PPS a friend had a oil cooler failure which filled the cooling system with oil and he ran washing up detergent through to clean up the cooling system. Did you do similar ? If so it could be interaction between the detergent and coolant.


I have flushed the system every time I have had to change the cooler and yes I use a variety of products to flush including liquid dishwasher detergent. I pull every hose off and clean and flush as well as the radiator. Thats the part the gets to me as replacing the unit is not that much of a deal but cleaning . I will test the sediment this week to see if its acid or alkaline. Thanks

[Roadrunner230]

This to me looks like cross contamination where different coolants have reached adversely to each other if I were you I would replace all hoses flush the system with a good radiator cleaner and refill with a quality coolant not Chinese or Repco just my thoughts.
Phil

Yes I think I will change to a known quality brand even though Repco suggests that theirs is made by a known brand. Just seem strange that the only constant is the coolant. Even had 3 liters left and used it on my dads laser and it blocked the radiator which had to be replaced.

[Roadrunner230]

This to me looks like cross contamination where different coolants have reached adversely to each other if I were you I would replace all hoses flush the system with a good radiator cleaner and refill with a quality coolant not Chinese or Repco just my thoughts.
Phil

Have used the same coolant every time and quality flushed the whole system even to the point of pulling every hose and cleaning including the radiator.

[Roadrunner230]

Lack of coolant flow?

I believe the flow is OK have replaced the water pump, radiator, hoses and it does not get hot even pulling a caravan.

[scarry]

Yes I think I will change to a known quality brand even though Repco suggests that theirs is made by a known brand. Just seem strange that the only constant is the coolant. Even had 3 liters left and used it on my dads laser and it blocked the radiator which had to be replaced.

That is the answer there.^^^
On my D2's,i used the LR coolant,which at the time was not much more expensive than aftermarket coolant,and had no issues.
But that was quite a few years back now.

Same as our work Tojo's,we use the manufacturers coolant,never had an issue.Also same sort of price as coolant from auto accessary places.
As are their air and oil filters.
Why would we use anything else?

[laney]

I think you have answered your own question if the Repco coolant is damaging your car and you put 3 litres in your dads Laser and his radiator is blocked and has to be replaced that would tell me to through the Repco crap away. I use Nulon OATS pre mix never had a days trouble with it Repco say there coolant is made by a quality manufacturer but can't or won't say who this alone would make me suspicious of there product hope you fix this problem soon.
Phil

[Roadrunner230]

I think you have answered your own question if the Repco coolant is damaging your car and you put 3 litres in your dads Laser and his radiator is blocked and has to be replaced that would tell me to through the Repco crap away. I use Nulon OATS pre mix never had a days trouble with it Repco say there coolant is made by a quality manufacturer but can't or won't say who this alone would make me suspicious of there product hope you fix this problem soon.
Phil

Phil they reckon its penrite

[d2dave]

I've been using Cummins PG Platinum for about 10 years and never had a problem.

Rick 130 who is an oil and coolant guru reckons it is good stuff.

It also eliminates the need to worry about quality of the water you mix with concentrates, as it is used straight.

PG Platinum™ Heavy Duty Engine Coolant | Cummins Filtration (https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/south-pacific/pg-platinum-heavy-duty-engine-coolant)

[ILikeDirt]

I was under the impression TD5’s ran the blue OAT stuff.

[oka374]

After they had with corrosion problems in a wide variety of vehicles the local mechanic who is also a Landrover specialist, as well as tractors and other farm machinery only use premixed coolant as whatever Hunter Water was using to make the water potable was also causing a reaction with concentrated coolants and cooling systems.
I've had no problems since only using premixed coolant.

[PerthDisco]

I was under impression you still only used demin water even with concentrate? Tap water is only an emergency measure to be promptly removed?

[Tombie]

Just out of curiosity, what radiator type is in it? Alloy?

[AK83]

D2? ... only alloy wouldn't it be?
Can you get anything other than Aluminium radiators in a D2?

[Tombie]

D2? ... only alloy wouldn't it be?
Can you get anything other than Aluminium radiators in a D2?

Ive seen one with Copper - I cringed....

[jwb]

CAT ELC is the way to go it's the original Texaco product specified by LR.
Premixed 4L $30ish.

[hotonemercury]

I saw this years ago while working for a hose mfg. Ford thermostat housings eaten away within 12 months.
It was studied and found to be electrolysis. Combination of high carbon content in the new style peroxide cured hoses,
and poor quality aluminium. Easiest solution for you, change out the hoses for silicon ones. should stop it in its tracks.

[MBE_NZ]

I have used Penrite blue in my TD5 defender for 9 years with no issues whatsoever (high KMs)
I used green before than, but was advised to go blue - so I did

[Brooksy106]

This is about 3.5 years old. Penrite with distilled water. System was flushed three times with system cleaner then rinsed twice (all using either deionized or distilled water). 178901

[stevo]

Have had my car for 23 years always have used the Nulon stuff, same oil cooler and second radiator, tap water in most cases from Sydney or Brisbane stuff

[Max Headroom 2.3m]

This is about 3.5 years old. Penrite with distilled water. System was flushed three times with system cleaner then rinsed twice (all using either deionized or distilled water). 178901

So are we saying that Penrite Blue OEM Coolant Concentrate (Product Cod: COOLBLUExxx) diluted 50/50 with distilled water is not the go?? I will not be happy if that is the case...I have flushed and changed to this recently [bawl].
Did you add 6.5 litres of concentrate to the system? System volume is 13 litres so anything less would result in less that 50/50 final conc. and potential corrosion.

[V8Ian]

So are we saying that Penrite Blue OEM Coolant Concentrate (Product Cod: COOLBLUExxx) diluted 50/50 with distilled water is not the go?? I will not be happy if that is the case...I have flushed and changed to this recently [bawl].
Did you add 6.5 litres of concentrate to the system? System volume is 13 litres so anything less would result in less that 50/50 final conc. and potential corrosion.
If you look at the pictures in the OP, it very much appears to be a red coolant.

[Max Headroom 2.3m]

If you look at the pictures in the OP, it very much appears to be a red coolant.

Yes, I did read the whole thread but after seeing that Brooksy106 (Post #23) appeared to have a similar problem as the OP but with a Penrite product, a mild panic set in as I had changed to a Penrite product about a year ago. I had assumed that Penrite Blue had been used as that is the recommended type for the Td5 on the Penrite website. I guess it is a fair assumption that Penrite Red was used. Not sure how similar the OAT components are but Blue is Silicate Free-OAT while Red is Silicate-OAT.

[Brooksy106]

So are we saying that Penrite Blue OEM Coolant Concentrate (Product Cod: COOLBLUExxx) diluted 50/50 with distilled water is not the go?? I will not be happy if that is the case...I have flushed and changed to this recently [bawl].
Did you add 6.5 litres of concentrate to the system? System volume is 13 litres so anything less would result in less that 50/50 final conc. and potential corrosion.
No Penrite Red as per their recommendation. As to concentration I just followed what it said on the container. I have had it since new and its always had red in it.

[laney]

I have always used Nulon red concentrate pre mix never had a problem I also use silicon hoses .

[V8Ian]

The colour of the dye is no guarantee of the type of coolant.

[onebob]

The colour of the dye is no guarantee of the type of coolant.

[emoji1432]X2
…… be sure to know what specification of coolant that your vehicle cooling system requires then and confirm it on the bottle label before you purchase - don’t rely on the colour.

[5380]

I have over the last three years brought repco Red OAT coolant to put in my Disco 2 TD5 and have nothing but trouble with something eating anyway the engine oil cooler from the water side. Tested for Parasitical currant draw and nothing detected either off or engine running. Have used both OEM or cheap Chinese version of the cooler and both are lasting less than 12 months with the same outcome. Repco blames not using the correct water ( have used both carbon filter tank water and town water) and that another company make the coolant for them. Rang the company and on there web site they say you can use either de-mineralised water or town water. In 40 years as a mechanic I have never seen this happen. Has anyone got any ideas. Have photos of both the 1st one and the 3rd one new and buggered. Sorry the second one was the same as the last. Changing them is not the problem but the cost and the pain in the butt cleaning is a problem.

These 4 are the last episode with this as a new one below 10 months
178817178816178815178814178818





178813178812178811178810178809178808178807

I use Nulon One (ten year rated) in everything for the last 5 years. It is promoted as being compatible with all cooling systems. I have have been very happy with its performance in a number of vehicles inluding a Disco II V8 and a Series One. Every time I check, every thing is spotlessly clean. The Series One core is gleaming brass, copper and solder when I remove the radiator cap to check the level.My only minor gripe is that when mixed with water at the recommended 50/50 ratio, it is very pale yellow in colour and is not easy to see the level in the Disco coolant expansion reservoir (unless I give the front end a bounce). I'll let you know in another 5 years when it is due for renewell.
5380

[simonmelb]

Nulon OAT red and Melbourne water - no probs in 12 years and all clean inside 😊

[Discosux]

Going back to lack of flow, just found this awesome thread re - cooling system flow.

new radiator for TD5, please explain (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2-a/182175-new-radiator-td5-please-explain-4.html)

see post #31

wondering what radiator / blanked off spigot setup you are running?

[Brooksy106]

So are we saying that Penrite Blue OEM Coolant Concentrate (Product Cod: COOLBLUExxx) diluted 50/50 with distilled water is not the go?? I will not be happy if that is the case...I have flushed and changed to this recently [bawl].
Did you add 6.5 litres of concentrate to the system? System volume is 13 litres so anything less would result in less that 50/50 final conc. and potential corrosion.
Sorry Max I don't log in very often and just saw you note. Blue IS correct as its silicate free. I have just replaces my Red OAT Penrite with Blue. I diluted 50:50 so added 6.5 litre of blue after neutralizing and flushing (3 times with distilled water). Sorry for the delay.

[Tombie]

I use Nulon One (ten year rated) in everything for the last 5 years. It is promoted as being compatible with all cooling systems. I have have been very happy with its performance in a number of vehicles inluding a Disco II V8 and a Series One. Every time I check, every thing is spotlessly clean. The Series One core is gleaming brass, copper and solder when I remove the radiator cap to check the level.My only minor gripe is that when mixed with water at the recommended 50/50 ratio, it is very pale yellow in colour and is not easy to see the level in the Disco coolant expansion reservoir (unless I give the front end a bounce). I'll let you know in another 5 years when it is due for renewell.
5380

I certainly wouldn’t recommend waiting 10 years to replace coolant. Regardless of the promises made by manufacturers.