F4x4 Bullbar Legality

[Jorn]

Hi all,

European here trying to get a defender ready for a trip down under. Everything here is quite a bit more expensive than it would be down under, and I'm trying to save a few bucks by not going for the ARB bullbar.

I've spotted this variant for a decent price, but I am wondering about legalities in Oz.
Does anyone think the potruding recovery points will cause issues during a roadworthy check (likely in WA)? They are removable if need be, but obviously then I don't have anything to recover from.

Seems to me they are similar to the recovery points on the terrafirma bar?

https://i.imgur.com/rDR5EPP.png

[BMKal]

I doubt if they would fail you for those recovery points here in WA - I've seen a lot worse on the roads around here.
If in doubt, I'd just remove them for the inspection, and then replace them after you have the registration done.

[Jorn]

I doubt if they would fail you for those recovery points here in WA - I've seen a lot worse on the roads around here.
If in doubt, I'd just remove them for the inspection, and then replace them after you have the registration done.

Thanks for the info, in that case I'm not going to worry about it.
Worst case scenario I'll pull them off on the spot.

I've read about a couple importing a defender that had 30mm spacers on (stupid), but apparantly they were allowed to just take them off right then and there to pass inspection.

[AK83]

those recovery points negate ADR compliance of that bar... for sure.
Whether this will be picked up on, is another question.

No external bracketing, be that for recovery points or lights or aerial ... not allowed.

[Tote]

If the cost differential is significant I'd consider leaving the factory bar on the front for import and then fitting an ARB or similar locally. Better buying power from currency conversion would also add to the attractiveness. Current price of a Defender bar is just under AUD$2000 plus fitting.
Regards,
Tote

[V8Ian]

Is the car old enough for LHD rego?

[PhilipA]

If he is just visiting on Carnet de Passage, the car does not have to be ADR compliant.
It is pretty much "run what ya brung."
The big issue is that the car has to be spotless for Quarantine.
Regards PhilipA

Australia Advisory | CPD Carnet (https://www.cpdcarnet.com/Australia_Advisory)
I am pretty sure the pre production Ineos Grenadiers are not ADR compliant.

[V8Ian]

If operating on a carnet, rego and roady won't apply, so presumably it's entertaining on a (semi)permanent basis as a personal import.

[PhilipA]

If he is coming as an immigrant then there are stringent rules on the one car they are allowed to bring with them.

New World Immigration Blog | NWI Visas (https://www.nwivisas.com/nwi-blog/australia/importing-your-household-items-and-vehicle-into-australia/#:~:text=First%2C%20you%20are%20required%20to,char ged%20with%20an%20official%20offence.)

Regards PhilipA

[Jorn]

If he is just visiting on Carnet de Passage, the car does not have to be ADR compliant.
It is pretty much "run what ya brung."
The big issue is that the car has to be spotless for Quarantine.
Regards PhilipA

Australia Advisory | CPD Carnet (https://www.cpdcarnet.com/Australia_Advisory)
I am pretty sure the pre production Ineos Grenadiers are not ADR compliant.

This is indeed the plan (CdP, LHD, and the Dutch, yellow plates), going to be a big cleaning job, but if that's the worst of it...
But it was my understanding I would need to go through a roadworthy inspection in order to get insurance.

So indeed, for shipping it in and getting temp plates, it doesn't matter, but would the same fly for roadworthyness?

But I think you are correct in stating that they are a bit more relaxed with the requirements. I've seen quite a few europeans running aftermarket LED headlights that would not meet ADR by a mile.

[350RRC]

Just unbolt them and put the bits with the jack.

You're over thinking this, I reckon.

DL

[BradC]

This is indeed the plan (CdP, LHD, and the Dutch, yellow plates)

Just be careful.

We have small (narrow) roads with long trucks, and peeking to see if you are safe to pass in an LHD without an on-the-ball, and competent co-pilot is dangerous.
I'd introduce you to a friend of my Dad who used to tour in an LHD Mustang, but he pulled out to peek and they found what was left of him the glove box.

Be careful.

[Jorn]

Just be careful.

We have small (narrow) roads with long trucks, and peeking to see if you are safe to pass in an LHD without an on-the-ball, and competent co-pilot is dangerous.
I'd introduce you to a friend of my Dad who used to tour in an LHD Mustang, but he pulled out to peek and they found what was left of him the glove box.

Be careful.

Indeed, overtaking in LHD vehicles is a problem, though that can be avoided by deciding not to overtake. I've actually driven both LHD and RHD vehicles in RHD countries, and I've found that adjusting your 'relflexes' is much more problematic, especially if there aren't a lot of vehicles on the road.

Going through intersections not looking like you are drunk is quite a challenge when suddenly everything is swaped around [biggrin]

But I'll be carefull, don't worry. I'm a competent driver, so I know enough to understand that driving on the other side of the road will pose major challanges.

Not that it will matter much on tracks like the canning and madigan line I assume [bigwhistle]

[prelude]

Hey another Dutchy going down under :)

I have the same considerations as you, though with a different land rover. From what I found and others have also stated, road worthy tests are simple check of lights and brakes, if that, on a cdp. The only real problem I foresee is weight. I believe in oz they van just pull you over and weigh the car and if you are over you're done. Ofcourse we al know and want our cars to be under gvm but I have thus far never been able to even with limited gear :(

Also, I am seriously considering making puchases in oz like the tyres I want, the wrangler mtr with kevlar which are illegal in europe (though I am currently driving on a set...) and a bar would not be a stupid idea either.

In any case! I'll send you a pm, perhaps we can see if our agenda's match etc and do shipping in a 40 ft container :)

Cheers,
-P

[Jorn]

Hey another Dutchy going down under :)

I have the same considerations as you, though with a different land rover. From what I found and others have also stated, road worthy tests are simple check of lights and brakes, if that, on a cdp. The only real problem I foresee is weight. I believe in oz they van just pull you over and weigh the car and if you are over you're done. Ofcourse we al know and want our cars to be under gvm but I have thus far never been able to even with limited gear :(

Also, I am seriously considering making puchases in oz like the tyres I want, the wrangler mtr with kevlar which are illegal in europe (though I am currently driving on a set...) and a bar would not be a stupid idea either.

In any case! I'll send you a pm, perhaps we can see if our agenda's match etc and do shipping in a 40 ft container :)

Cheers,
-P

Oh that would be amazing!
Reason I didn't buy in Australia is because I'm lacking experience, wanted to get to know the vehicle, and all the related mechanics, before I drive myself into the red center.
Weight is a big consideration, but the 130 has a 3.5 ton gvm and a 2.1 ton lean weight. So 1.4 tons to put mods on..
I understand that when roads close to all trafic except 4wd's, there is also a 3 ton limit, so I'm really hoping to stay below that..

Looking forward to your PM.

[jonesfam]

In Queensland you are very, very unlikely to be weighed unless you are driving a truck.
Just ask V8Ian!
Jonesfam

[V8Ian]

In Queensland you are very, very unlikely to be weighed unless you are driving a truck.
Just ask V8Ian!
Jonesfam
I was rarely weighed, but timetables and routes were often adjusted. [bigwhistle]

Jorn and Prelude, have a read through "Trip Preparation, Suggestions, Ideas & Advice ". You might be surprised at how little weight addition you don't need. The extreme conditions of this country are often exaggerated.
Check out Karstan And Maxine, a YouTube channel about a young family traveling some remote tracks and exploring iconic locations, in an old Kombie.

[Bushboy2000]

For the very few posts I do make on the forum, hopefully the link below may help you Jorn. Not bullbar related but you may get some useful info from Leigh & Steph's youtube. They have recently shipped (About 12 months ago) their Defender from overseas👍GrizzlyNbear Overland - YouTube (https://m.youtube.com/c/GrizzlyNbearOverland/videos)
Regards,
Joel

[Jorn]

For the very few posts I do make on the forum, hopefully the link below may help you Jorn. Not bullbar related but you may get some useful info from Leigh & Steph's youtube. They have recently shipped (About 12 months ago) their Defender from overseas👍GrizzlyNbear Overland - YouTube (https://m.youtube.com/c/GrizzlyNbearOverland/videos)
Regards,
Joel

Thanks for the tip! Have been following these two for a while, inspired me to take this route

[TonyC]

Weight is a big consideration, but the 130 has a 3.5 ton gvm and a 2.1 ton lean weight. So 1.4 tons to put mods on..
I understand that when roads close to all trafic except 4wd's, there is also a 3 ton limit, so I'm really hoping to stay below that..
.

Hi Jorn.
When roads are closed based in weight, due to wet weather, it will be on your GVM not the current weight of the vehicle.

All the best with your trip

Tony

[prelude]

I was rarely weighed, but timetables and routes were often adjusted. [bigwhistle]

Jorn and Prelude, have a read through "Trip Preparation, Suggestions, Ideas & Advice ". You might be surprised at how little weight addition you don't need. The extreme conditions of this country are often exaggerated.
Check out Karstan And Maxine, a YouTube channel about a young family traveling some remote tracks and exploring iconic locations, in an old Kombie.

I am pretty sure I don't need the whole kitchen sink :) but with a petrol that does 20l/100 and wanting to take on something like the canning (hopefully back open by then) I need 200k's in fuel and water alone (extra) and I don't have that much weight left :)
A fridge full of food and drinks is 50k's at least? weight goes soooooooooo fast.

I will be reading around of course yes. I did not know the 130 in .nl had 3.5 gvm? I thought it could only legally carry 1.1 tonne. In any case my P38 can only carry 800 of which a lot has already been spent on better wheels/tryres, bar/bash work, fridge, etc.

I do know about grizzly n bear of course :) I do not watch all their video's but I did see that one, I also saw the vid of the germans shipping to oz to drive back home on ronnies channel 3 years ago or so. They evaded the weight question and I guess I know why! I also wonder if grizzly n bear are within gvm?

Regarding getting experienced with the car, that's a good idea but you would not necessarily need a bar for that. Learning to winch might be useful but it's not like rocket science. Learning to drive is much more important I should think (to not get stuck to begin with)

Cheers!
-P

[Jorn]

I am pretty sure I don't need the whole kitchen sink :) but with a petrol that does 20l/100 and wanting to take on something like the canning (hopefully back open by then) I need 200k's in fuel and water alone (extra) and I don't have that much weight left :)

I will be reading around of course yes. I did not know the 130 in .nl had 3.5 gvm? I thought it could only legally carry 1.1 tonne. In any case my P38 can only carry 800 of which a lot has already been spent on better wheels/tryres, bar/bash work, fridge, etc.

I do know about grizzly n bear of course :) I do not watch all their video's but I did see that one, I also saw the vid of the germans shipping to oz to drive back home on ronnies channel 3 years ago or so. They evaded the weight question and I guess I know why! I also wonder if grizzly n bear are within gvm?


Their camper would be around the 500kg mark dry weight, but it is a french vehicle so likely also with the 3.5t GVM (just checked my registration, I really do have ~1450 in (legal) payload). So they could very well be within GVM, I believe they don't carry a ton of fuel/water. They also don't do crazy tracks, so I doubt they have issues. Full airbag man suspension would help I'd think.

I'll be putting mine on the scales asap, so I can keep an eye out for the weight. I had the brilliant idea to make a custom rollcage, which adds security and will do duty as a roofrack, but I'm pretty sure that will hurt in terms of weight as well. No (affordable) off-the-shelve way to mount the rooftop tent below the roofline, so I don't really have a choice.

My plan is to hit some remote parts (like the canning) as well. Not sure how bad the fuel consumption of a loaded 130 td5 will be in the dunes, but I've calculated a liberal margin. Thing is, when doing the canning / madigan line, you will use a pretty sizable portion of water and fuel before you get into the really hard stuff. I'm fine with being near the limit (though not over) of GVM when driving towards those places, as long as I'm on a healthy weight at all other times. No good reason to be driving around with 100L of water and 200L of diesel when you can get both easily where you are traveling. I've got a 210L aux fuel tank, and 85L water tank, but I don't think I'll ever be filling them to capacity. 285L's of diesel seems like a LOT, even for the canning.

I'm also pretty certain that weight destribution matters more than gross vehicle mass. Though both should be considered.

[Jorn]

I was rarely weighed, but timetables and routes were often adjusted. [bigwhistle]

Jorn and Prelude, have a read through "Trip Preparation, Suggestions, Ideas & Advice ". You might be surprised at how little weight addition you don't need. The extreme conditions of this country are often exaggerated.
Check out Karstan And Maxine, a YouTube channel about a young family traveling some remote tracks and exploring iconic locations, in an old Kombie.

Thanks for the tip, will defo go through that to see what other good ideas people came up with.

Karstan and Maxine are really doing an epic trip, no doubt about that! Watching their Old Telegraph Track adventure right now. I think the 'extreme' conditions are fairly on point, you just don't need a twin locked 79 for most of it.
But I agree, the 130 I'm building is brutal overkill for Karstan and Maxine, considering what they can do in the Combi.

But to be fair, I'm a less experienced driver, have lesser bush/australia knowledge, and make worse decisions (young and stupid really). I expect that I'll get myself in a pickle at some point during the trip, mostly because I have a habit of driving into places that smarter men go around. So the goal is to have a vehicle that allows me to make a few mistakes. All within reason ofcourse, and still get out without major damage to myself or the vehicle.

[Jorn]

Hi Jorn.
When roads are closed based in weight, due to wet weather, it will be on your GVM not the current weight of the vehicle.

All the best with your trip

Tony

Not surprising! But thanks for the tip, I understood the fines are massive, and I don't think the coppers will accept my 'dumb tourist' excuse. [biggrin]

[DoubleChevron]

Do you realise you don't need any mods to a defender to travel australia? We did the full lap when I was a kids in a VW kombi fitted with a sigma motor ... towing a 16' caravan. Travel in daylight hours, and you could get away easily with no bullbar. I certainly wouldn't change tyres from whatever is stock to the vehicle. Its desert country, and if its wet, you simply don't go there (they will actually close the roads either way).

seeya,
Shane L.

[350RRC]

Do you realise you don't need any mods to a defender to travel australia? We did the full lap when I was a kids in a VW kombi fitted with a sigma motor ... towing a 16' caravan. Travel in daylight hours, and you could get away easily with no bullbar. I certainly wouldn't change tyres from whatever is stock to the vehicle. Its desert country, and if its wet, you simply don't go there (they will actually close the roads either way).

seeya,
Shane L.

Or just hire / buy a Prado when you get here, play the dumb tourist if need be, fill your clothes with red dust in your suitcases before you leave Oz and deposit in every crevice in your Defender when you get home.

There's been a 130 for sale in Perth for 23k on here recently ......... another option.

Just a thought.............

If I want to go sailing in the Whitsundays I just charter a yacht and hand it back after a week or three. Done it many times........ no grief.

If I want to ride a horse I'll just go to a riding school or go on an organised ride somewhere and hand the reins back at the end. No grief. (actually haven't done that for decades)

I respect people's dreams but have become a bit more practical over the years.

DL

[trout1105]

I respect people's dreams but have become a bit more practical over the years.

Or maybe you have simply lost you sense of adventure[bigwhistle]

[350RRC]

Or maybe you have simply lost you sense of adventure[bigwhistle]

IME adventures can be radically expanded if one doesn't have be overly concerned with the 'vehicle' that gets you to the general location.

How many people do you know who've been to the end of Hill inlet in the Whitsundays in a dinghy and seen what lives there?

How many people do you know who'd windsurf across the Rip in Vic on a sinker to play in the waves on the other side more than a hundred times alone?

Adventure alive and well here.

DL

[Arapiles]

I've travelled the country in a series of inappropriate vehicles, including a Hillman Minx that was only a year younger than me.

It actually had skinnier, higher profile tyres than most 4WDs so it did OK, including in the snow and the Little Desert.

[Jorn]

Do you realise you don't need any mods to a defender to travel australia? We did the full lap when I was a kids in a VW kombi fitted with a sigma motor ... towing a 16' caravan. Travel in daylight hours, and you could get away easily with no bullbar. I certainly wouldn't change tyres from whatever is stock to the vehicle. Its desert country, and if its wet, you simply don't go there (they will actually close the roads either way).

seeya,
Shane L.

Oh yeah, I 100% agree with this.
You don't need mods, or probably not even a 4x4 to travel Australia.

I just want the ability to dumb things (canning stock, driving at night, turning into a track you are likely not going to make it through), with relative safely.

The choice to build the vehicle in Europe and ship it to Oz was also more of a 'just because I can' than 'absolutely required'. I mean it helps me understand and prepare, because my experience IS limited. But mostly it is part of the adventure for me. I can buy a random vehicle in Oz, and then buy another vehicle once I get home. But honestly I just fancy the idea of owning the same vehicle for the next decade and being able to see that it has been in Australia, but also the northern cape of Europe.

Everybody draws the line somewhere. I went carcamping and traveled to above the polar circle in a rwd two seater cabrio, which was amazing, but didn't allow me to go everywhere. On the other hand you have people driving twin locked MOGS on portal axles and 58 inch tyres. So a modified defender doesn't seem that far out of line for the kind of adventure I'd like to go on [biggrin]

But I agree, it isn't for everyone, and most people go waaay overboard. If you think you need mods before you can do the lap, you are probably doing it wrong.
No point in building a vehicle for 10 years, while never having the money to take it anywhere.

[trout1105]

Oh yeah, I 100% agree with this.
You don't need mods, or probably not even a 4x4 to travel Australia.

I just want the ability to dumb things (canning stock, driving at night, turning into a track you are likely not going to make it through), with relative safely.

The choice to build the vehicle in Europe and ship it to Oz was also more of a 'just because I can' than 'absolutely required'. I mean it helps me understand and prepare, because my experience IS limited. But mostly it is part of the adventure for me. I can buy a random vehicle in Oz, and then buy another vehicle once I get home. But honestly I just fancy the idea of owning the same vehicle for the next decade and being able to see that it has been in Australia, but also the northern cape of Europe.

Everybody draws the line somewhere. I went carcamping and traveled to above the polar circle in a rwd two seater cabrio, which was amazing, but didn't allow me to go everywhere. On the other hand you have people driving twin locked MOGS on portal axles and 58 inch tyres. So a modified defender doesn't seem that far out of line for the kind of adventure I'd like to go on [biggrin]

But I agree, it isn't for everyone, and most people go waaay overboard. If you think you need mods before you can do the lap, you are probably doing it wrong.
No point in building a vehicle for 10 years, while never having the money to take it anywhere.

Just follow your dream Mate after all it is YOUR dream and no one else's [thumbsupbig]

[Max Headroom 2.3m]

No point in building a vehicle for 10 years, while never having the money to take it anywhere.
Trouble is, once you start it is hard to stop. There is always something else you "need"[wink11]



I've travelled the country in a .....Hillman Minx .

Respeeeect!

[Jorn]

https://i.imgur.com/nhMuyMb.png

rollcage and tent design

it is not supposed to be a racing cage, and it won’t weigh as much.
Will be chromolly tube.
Partly for keeping me safe, partly for attaching the tent / solar panel.

[DiscoMick]

I think the bear and grizzly 130 has had a GVM upgrade.
As for insurance, have you priced getting it in your home country with a cover extension to include Australia?
A standard Defender in good condition can cope with everything Oz will throw at it.
I agree suspension and tyres are the main issues here, plus thorough servicing and maintenance.
Distances are large, so a larger fuel tank, such as the 120 litre in our Defender, can be useful.
I would also make sure the headlights are bright.
You could consider fitting rear airbags too.

[Jorn]

I think the bear and grizzly 130 has had a GVM upgrade.
As for insurance, have you priced getting it in your home country with a cover extension to include Australia?
A standard Defender in good condition can cope with everything Oz will throw at it.
I agree suspension and tyres are the main issues here, plus thorough servicing and maintenance.
Distances are large, so a larger fuel tank, such as the 120 litre in our Defender, can be useful.
I would also make sure the headlights are bright.
You could consider fitting rear airbags too.

Thanks for the tip! I wasn't aware I could potentially have my own insurance to cover australia. I assumed I'd need to get insurance in australia (australian company). Will look into that.

For tyres I was thinking 255/85 rather than the 285/75. Likely mud terrains. KM3, Coopers, or Toyo's are my options.
I believe the australian defenders have slightly beefed up cooling, but not 100% sure. Looking at fitting an EGT gauge to keep an eye on the motor at least.

I've got the default 75L tank, but I will be fitting a 210L aux tank, which I wil likely never fill up to capacity.

https://i.imgur.com/rFEBtDs.png

You can see the white tank, the height of the rear rollcage is indicated by the yellow piping (Tent will go on top of that), and the double spares will go on top of the fuel tank.

Headlights are fine, but I will be adding 2, maybe 3 extra lights on the bullbar. Depends on how far I can stretch the budget really.

[V8Ian]

I wouldn't be considering mud tyres. All terrains will be more economical, quieter and more suited to 99.9% of the surfaces you will encounter.
Auxiliary lights will need to be fitted in pairs.

[Jorn]

I wouldn't be considering mud tyres. All terrains will be more economical, quieter and more suited to 99.9% of the surfaces you will encounter.
Auxiliary lights will need to be fitted in pairs.

I'll think about tyres, will also depends on price/durability.

I was thinking 2 floods/driving/turning lights, and one center spot. I'm not unhappy with the far throw of the high beem, but it does lack in spread.

https://i.imgur.com/93qtCJ6.png

[Saitch]

For tyres, I'd be looking at Toyo Open Country or Maxxis Razr. I have had the Maxxis on my D3 for a while and so far, have been more than I need. Very good on road, too.

[BMKal]

I think the bear and grizzly 130 has had a GVM upgrade.

You could consider fitting rear airbags too.

The Bear and Grizzly 130 is now running on full air suspension on all wheels. They had it installed at Goldfields Off Road here in Kalgoorlie not that long back. They have put out a video about the install and subsequent testing on the beaches down around Esperance. It has made a huge difference to the vehicle.


Land Rover Defender FULL AIR suspension system! An epic upgrade. Coil spring replacement! (Ep193) - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=klgfJ3rNWG8)
Testing the new suspension (194) - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGhDzkq2O1o)

[Jorn]

The Bear and Grizzly 130 is now running on full air suspension on all wheels. They had it installed at Goldfields Off Road here in Kalgoorlie not that long back. They have put out a video about the install and subsequent testing on the beaches down around Esperance. It has made a huge difference to the vehicle.


Land Rover Defender FULL AIR suspension system! An epic upgrade. Coil spring replacement! (Ep193) - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=klgfJ3rNWG8)
Testing the new suspension (194) - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGhDzkq2O1o)

It is a very nifty upgrade, and they are pretty wise (don't do dumb tracks, don't drive like idiots).
Personally I don't mind the rattles and the bumps. It just means I drive slow enough to be comfortable, which should help preserve the vehicle?
No clue how/if air suspension helps keep the vehicle in one piece.

All I know is that I can't afford it anyways [biggrin]

[prelude]

that's the problem with yout00b is it not? :) those G&B guys have lots of info, but it's all in vids which takes for ever to watch (all of them anyway) and looking something up is almost impossible since it is not indexed anywhere. I can't recall they had a GVM upgrade anyway since this is a bit of an exception within europe to get done, not many countries allow this. From the top of my head the UK (which is no longer EU) and germany are the only ones who actually have the option to do it and their vehicle was bought (and registered) in france iirc.

Regarding the air suspension, that's a funny thing: I have a P38 with air suspension and many people have commented that air suspension is bad for overland travel and here we are, two popular youtubers have switched to air suspension :)

Jorn, as far as lights go, the consensus seems to be that avoid driving at night and you don't need lights. I am also still on the fence on that one. I really like the fyrlit units but they are huge and I do not want to put anything in front of my radiator grill to avoid blocking the air flow. A laser bar is also a great product but that is mostly distance and not much flood and adding more lights for flood... well it keeps ticking up in terms of money!

The Tyres, we have discussed that in private already, I think 255/85R16 is a "perfect" size but I do believe they are not readily available everywhere so that might be a thing? By the looks of it you currently have goodyear wranglers in I guess the standard size 235/85R16 and unless you have a really good reason to replace those, I would keep them on, they are a good tyre in my experience. Also, you can get the MT/R with kevlar in oz and I like those even more but no longer available over here.

Finally, nice setup :) I would be careful placing heavy spare wheels on top of a plastic fuel tank since rubbing and bouncing might cause trouble. Are you planning on having a frame to support things?

Cheers,
-P

[Jorn]

that's the problem with yout00b is it not? :) those G&B guys have lots of info, but it's all in vids which takes for ever to watch (all of them anyway) and looking something up is almost impossible since it is not indexed anywhere. I can't recall they had a GVM upgrade anyway since this is a bit of an exception within europe to get done, not many countries allow this. From the top of my head the UK (which is no longer EU) and germany are the only ones who actually have the option to do it and their vehicle was bought (and registered) in france iirc.

Regarding the air suspension, that's a funny thing: I have a P38 with air suspension and many people have commented that air suspension is bad for overland travel and here we are, two popular youtubers have switched to air suspension :)

Jorn, as far as lights go, the consensus seems to be that avoid driving at night and you don't need lights. I am also still on the fence on that one. I really like the fyrlit units but they are huge and I do not want to put anything in front of my radiator grill to avoid blocking the air flow. A laser bar is also a great product but that is mostly distance and not much flood and adding more lights for flood... well it keeps ticking up in terms of money!

The Tyres, we have discussed that in private already, I think 255/85R16 is a "perfect" size but I do believe they are not readily available everywhere so that might be a thing? By the looks of it you currently have goodyear wranglers in I guess the standard size 235/85R16 and unless you have a really good reason to replace those, I would keep them on, they are a good tyre in my experience. Also, you can get the MT/R with kevlar in oz and I like those even more but no longer available over here.

Finally, nice setup :) I would be careful placing heavy spare wheels on top of a plastic fuel tank since rubbing and bouncing might cause trouble. Are you planning on having a frame to support things?

Cheers,
-P

I will be placing them on a welded steel frame! The plastic tank will 100% not survive two full sized spares bouncing on top of them.
I indeed have some 235/85 wranglers on them now, they are nice tires, but they don't give the diff clearance, and cannot be lowered as much as the bigger tyres.
Will need to get 2 new tyres for the spare wheels anyways, so I might as well go the full mile.

European laws are a bit odd sometimes. I believe GVM is mostly calculated by breaking performance here. I also suspect that most vehicles will have the same legal weight in most of the EU, but I cannot confirm that. The reason people might think they have an 'upgraded' GVM is because they did upgrade their shock mounts, and mounted dual shocks in the rear.

Whether air suspension is the right choice or not I do not know. I believe the airbag man setups that replace the standard defender setup is much less sensitive when compared to 'stock' air suspension vehicles.

As far as lights, I'll be looking at the bahadesigns spots. You can swap the lenses for relatively cheap if you don't like the lens setup, and they are small. Also relatively affordable.
It is not my goal to drive at night, but I won't be actively avoiding it.

Kind regards

[DiscoMick]

You could just upgrade the bulbs in the standard lights to be 50%+ or even higher, as a cheap alternative to fitting whole new lights.
It's unwise to drive at dawn or dusk or at night in some areas due to wildlife, particularly if the road is unfenced.