Spring Reset

[minioncreek]

Hi would anyone have experience with resetting leaf springs on the rear of a 109" 2A? Its sagged a little and i am considering getting it done while i do bushes? Any advice on hot vs cold reset, i dont carry heavy loads generally so prefer not to add leaves? Any tips or advice on previous success or failures appreciated!
Cheers, Graeme

[minioncreek]

Just thought I’d share my results as I wasn’t able to find much information. I found the free camber measurements on the Land Rover manual which is required for a reset. It’s not specific on where they measured from but we assumed it was to centre of the spring eye. Factory is around 230mm drivers and 210mm passenger from memory for a 109”. We went 250mm and 230mm respectively to allow for sag which is inevitable. End result was an improvement but it’s only level now, so in hindsight I would add another 20mm minimum for a hot reset. Was around $350 pair. Hopefully this helps.

[Xtreme]

In my experience from many moons ago, spring resets don't last long so I hope modern resets are more successful.
The best thing I ever did with leaf springs was to grease between the leaves - improved the ride heaps.

[JDNSW]

Same here

[drfish]

What sort of grease or lubricant do you use? Cheers, Matt

Same here

[cjc_td5]

What sort of grease or lubricant do you use? Cheers, MattDry graphite spray is excellent as it won't attract dust. It's used on earthmoving equipment so try a machinery supplier.

[JDNSW]

What sort of grease or lubricant do you use? Cheers, Matt

When I had the springs apart I used molybdenum disulphide grease, but since then, about every couple of services, or when the springs start to creak I take the weight off (chassis stands), and apply engine oil. If fussy, worth hosing down or even degreasing after the weight is back on the springs. I used to oppose oiling springs in this country, but have decided that in light of the low mileage I do, the dust accumulation is not a significant issue, and may not even increase wear anyway, compared to like metals rubbing each other unlubricated. And the oil will help repel water that leads to rust, which may even be the biggest issue. (Engine oil is not ideal, as it contains detergent, and will mix with water - but it is what I have available.)

Some of the old motor engineering books i have describe tools designed to spread the leaves of springs to help squirting oil between them.

[Xtreme]

..............................................

Some of the old motor engineering books i have describe tools designed to spread the leaves of springs to help squirting oil between them.
I had a tool similiar to that but with a grease nipple on it.
I say 'had' because I lent it a forum member, who I won't name, years ago and despite numerous requests it still hasn't been returned. :wallbash:

However, if you do as JDNSW suggests and take the weight off the springs, then drive a finely tapered steel wedge between the leaves, apply a squirt of grease and spread around a bit with a hacksaw blade, you'll achieve the desired result.

[drfish]

Thanks all, we’ll timed as I’m just about to put my spring packs back together.

Cheers, Matt

[whitehillbilly64]

My S3 Daily and 80inch Leaves had a wear ridge on them.
I took them off with my 4 inch angle grinder and a Flapper wheel.
I added a chamfer to the Rubbing spring edge.
I use Motor Bike chain Lube.

whitehillbilly

[cjc_td5]

My S3 Daily and 80inch Leaves had a wear ridge on them.
I took them off with my 4 inch angle grinder and a Flapper wheel.
I added a chamfer to the Rubbing spring edge.
I use Motor Bike chain Lube.

whitehillbillyYes chamfering the end of the leaves and making sure there is no wear ridge in the adjacent leaf is well worth it!