Indicative Prices on Series 3

[Sam Ball]

Thanks guy's I found a car for sale - not sure if its actually called a Series 3? - says the manufacture date is 82.

Its a civillian LWB wagon that has basically been used once a year for an annual fishing trip - done only 33,000 k's (apparently) and does look very straight from the photo's.

Its had a 3.5 litre V8 put in and has a 3 speed auto which must have been retro fitted. - the guy wants $3,500. (seems on the high side)- Rego has lapsed, but he reckons there is very little work if any to be done on it.

Does anyone know how much I'd be looking at for rear seats? - as in the troop carriers

[dobbo]

What state are you in I might have some for sale in a few weeks time

Emphasise on MIGHT

[JDNSW]

If it really is an 82 it will definitely be a Series 3. However, with the V8 it may be a "Stage1" Series 3 which came from the factory with a V8 (but not auto). These are quite rare (and hence desirable), but against that they have a lot of parts that are shared with no other Landrovers, and some of these are a bit hard to find. If it is not a Stage 1 the V8 may be straining the friendship with the brakes, although by 82 they were putting wide drums on all Landrovers not just the sixes and eights. The standard S3 gearbox won't really stand a V8, and this may be why it has an auto.
In any case it has clearly been modified and you need to ensure that the modifications have been approved before you buy it.
I assume you are looking for the side seats in the back - these are reasonably cheap second hand - a lot of people have in the past pulled them out of ex-army ones. Same seats fit S2 -S3 - 90/110/Defender. Seat belts may be an issue, check with the state authority.

[scrambler]

Sam, the odometer in Series 3s (and if it's an 82 it's a Series 3) clocks every 100,000. So add you choice of 1, 2 or 300,000 to the odometer reading given. I'd expect 2 or 3 in front of the 33,000 and anyone who says otherwise is lying.

Is the grill a plastic series 3 (recessed back from the front of the wings) or is it metal, flush with the wing fronts (similar to Defender)? If it's flush and metal it's probably an original V8 ("Stage 1"). The definitive way to pick a factory V8 is the "V" in the chassis number. If he'll give you the chassis number for a REVS certificate, enter it into this site (www.clifton.nl/calvin.html) to confirm what the car left the factory as.

They all look straight from the photo's! that's the beauty of aluminium panelling. You need to see the chassis etc.

Is it a 5 door wagon and you're wanting to put seats (back) in the cargo area? They came with those originally so if the vehicle hasn't been complianced down to a lower number, you can just bolt them in (with seatbelts of course). Make me an offer on my spare one.

I've heard the 3 speed auto isn't that hard to put into an original V8 (though it does mean cutting the gearbox because the LT95 is an integrated gearbox and transfer case). If it's an aftermarket V8 conversion from a Range Rover the auto might be factory item.

I paid $4000 for my 1981 V8 manual almost 2 years ago. They're not depreciating much (except for the fuel price impact) so $3500 for one in good nick is not too bad (though you might find cheaper).

Where are you? I'm in Toowoomba and am planning on selling my Stage 1 because I've opted for the "luxury" of a County. If I was closer to the beach I'd be keeping the Stage 1, though - it's almost the ideal beach car. And mine would come with all 10 seats! It's got a genuine 280,000 (I've got receipts since new) and recently overhauled head. The engines are good for almost infinite use - easy to rebuild and plenty of parts around.

Anyway, good luck with the purchase - just make sure you see and drive in the flesh before you pay out your money.

Steve

P.S.

Just read the other posts that got in ahead of me while I ate tea! Very few parts are unique to Stage 1's - the front axle being the most significant. Another is the radiator. I had to get mine recored, but a new core was readily available and cost no more than a Defender. All the body and interior (other than the grill) is stock series 3. The chassis is a lightly modified Series 3 and the motor and gearbox is Range Rover.

Unlike any other Series vehicle a Stage 1 will do 110 on the highway and have (some) power left over. But they're no hotrod V8 - it's a detuned pushrod 3.5l. Expect the power of a modern 4 and the fuel consumption of 2.

I'd second the mod plates - if the current owner has modded it he might not have bothered.

Steve

[JDNSW]

Steve,
Thanks for the input from a real Stage 1 owner. Rereading my post I was probably over emphasising the parts problem. As you correctly state the front axle is the biggest concern, but there are other parts. You are right though that the vast majority of the vehicle is standard S3.
John

[Sam Ball]

Jesus, is there anything you guys don't know about these cars?

The grill is flush with the front wings - don't know if its plastic or metal.

Thanks for the tip on the compliance for the rear seats - I have three kids.

To Mat, I'm in Victoria, so Toowoomba's a little far, but thanks anyway - your car sounds pretty much what I'm after.

If I get it, I'm sure I'll have plenty more questions.

Thanks again all for your extensive answers.

Sam

[dobbo]

Sam '

you've been looking at a stage 1

[Sam Ball]

Thanks Mat, and sorry it was Steve in Toowoomba.

[scrambler]

Sam,

There's plenty I don't know, which is one reason to be on this forum. Before I bought mine all I knew was that I could only afford a 25 year old 4wd and that a Land Rover would at least be rust-free (in the body) at that age, which was more than you could say for anything Japanese.

Once you get them, you start to learn things. You have to - your local mechanic can't figure out where to attach the electronic diagnostic unit, your friends and relations start noticing Land Rovers but can't tell a Series 2 from an Xtreme, and when you order parts you check the price, the current international exchange rate and the cost of freight from the UK!

The internet is a wonderful thing when you own a Land Rover because so many people are proud of their machine. Stage 1's are rare in Europe (less so here) so owners are extra proud and put lots of details on the net. There's an international Stage 1 club and register, so check that out for more info.

Back on your original question - if the vehicle you're looking at (and hopefully this weekend you get to look at it!) is in good condition - meaning engine's not leaking too much, no obvious repair issues and the chassis isn't rusty- the Auto conversion shouldn't change the price if it's competently done. Have a look at the gearbox/transfer case. It will look like it's been cut with an angle grinder - that's OK! Make sure everything is alligned correctly. I don't know what an early 80's Range Rover auto looks like, but I'd suggest you check that on the net and make sure the auto in the Stage 1 looks the same. I doubt it would be anything else, though it's possible.

The auto will make it a bit sluggish even with the V8 (peak power out of the factory was under 100HP in an engine capable of closer to 200 in other models). Just remember that the chassis dynamics, steering etc were designed in 1948 as a combination tractor/truck/car. The design loves being in low-range and doesn't really like high speeds or carparks. That being the case, a little sluggish isn't a bad thing.

Mine has a 20% speedo error (says 100 when you're doing 80) and it was the best thing when I first got the car - I went around town at 50 which was slow enough to get the hang of it! I did 80 on the highway which was plenty fast enough for me at the time. Now I do 110 with one hand on the wheel but that takes practice!

What can I say? I love it! But I'm selling it :( I've never lent it to anyone because it takes a few weeks to learn how to use it. Comes a time that's a problem.

Anyway, enough of my ramblings. If the one you're seeing is an good nick, $3500 is a fair price. But if it's not in good condition then walk away, there will be others.

And Queensland's only a short flight away!

Finally, chassis in Stage 1s (and any Series 3, really) are prone to rot. The internet advice is - take a hammer on your inspection and give the chassis a good going over. Never done it myself, but I'd be prepared. Mine had rust cut out when it was still a baby, but a really good job was done in repairing and rustproofing afterwards. This is more likely to be a problem if it's only been used for the annual fishing trip...

Good luck, let us know how it goes!

Steve

[djam1]

The guys are right the biggest concern with a Stage 1 is the front axle but let me share something that I've found, The Kiwi army has released another 400 Stage1s on to the market in NZ what this means is that quite a few are being wrecked and the parts are cheap. I had the rarest parts imported from NZ to Alice Springs for next to nothing.
Stage1s are a good reliable unit but you would be wise to change the front axles over to Maxis as they fatigue over time and one day you will be doing nothing difficult and the short axle will just pop.
Beware the V8s will wind out to unLandroverish speeds with minimal modification but they go a whole lot better than they will stop.

$3500 sounds Ok if its in good condition just remember you have 24 year old everything.

[scrambler]

I guess that's the NT unlimited speed roads, djam1.

I've only had mine to an indicated 150 - which is only about 120 in reality. I've found stopping OK, but only since I got the brake servo replaced. It stopped OK before that, but only with the sort of force Fred Flintstone used to brake his car. Mine's got 31x10.5s which give a good footprint on the road. But compared to any disk brake vehicle...

I'd have said they go a whole lot better than they steer - but again that's the fat tyres.

Steve

[Sam Ball]

Thanks guys, will let you know how I go.

Sam

[scrambler]

How'd it go, Sam?

And if you (or anyone else) is looking for a good tourer, I saw this on the street yesterday - very tidy looking unit.

http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!cs_content.private_vehicle'vehicle_id=3253284&current_rec=1&used_rec=0&total_rec=5&sort_type=&total_rec=5&sort_type=&make_id=18&model_id=4346&badge_id=31251

In Toowoomba which isn't so convenient for you!

Steve

[RoverOne]

How'd it go, Sam?

And if you (or anyone else) is looking for a good tourer, I saw this on the street yesterday - very tidy looking unit.

http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!cs_content.private_vehicle'vehicle_id=3253284&current_rec=1&used_rec=0&total_rec=5&sort_type=&total_rec=5&sort_type=&make_id=18&model_id=4346&badge_id=31251

In Toowoomba which isn't so convenient for you!

Steve

That is a nice car, worth a plane trip to have a look, someone has put some thought into that restoration, probably good value as well.