Jpdv
10th August 2022, 01:30 PM
For anyone who's interested, I've been delaying installing my second battery/traxide setup, because I was a little concerned at just how tight the selected battery was...  I had read the posts promising that an HVT70LD would fit, but it looked bloody tight once I'd squeezed a tray into the space.  
After some gingerly lowering the bonnet, I was at least happy that I wasn't going to put a bloody great dent in it with the terminals(!). Concern number 1 removed. Concern number 2 was the prospect of rubbing through the bonnet sound insulation mat and shorting everything against the metal bonnet in mid-drive somewhere... My answer was to get some talcum powder and dust the top of both terminals with it, and then fully close the bonnet. This gave the following result:
180264
It clearly showed that only the earth terminal was touching the matting. I can live with that. The better news was that I then started fumbling about where it touched, wanting to get a feel for any earthing risk if it rubbed through: by pure luck, and obviously because the Gods of the mad tinkerer love me, I discovered that the talcum spot is slap in the middle of a recess/gap in the lower part of the bonnet:
180265
So the message is, it will just about fit, but if you are worried, tweak and adjust before any metal bashing or hole drilling in order to get that terminal under that lovely little hole...
I also then removed the plastic fold away handle from this end of the battery - it means that the earth strap has a bit more room as it rounds the upper corner of the battery:
180267
Finally, drilled and filed a suitable hole in the OEM battery cover to run the cable to the cranking positive terminal: it's not water tight, but you're deluding yourself if you think that cover is, anyway:
180268
End Result before running accessory cables. Note that I also rigged a minimal height clamp from a bit of gal plate - much lower than the commercial plastic handles, but watch for accidental shorting if you go this route(!) The. butterfly nuts are temporary, because the bloody threads they are on are not metric, and. I don't have any substitute nuts to hand - so I've ground down the tops to stop them rubbing holes in the matting - I'll replace them with cone lock nuts when I get the time, to reduce the profile a bit further...
180266
After some gingerly lowering the bonnet, I was at least happy that I wasn't going to put a bloody great dent in it with the terminals(!). Concern number 1 removed. Concern number 2 was the prospect of rubbing through the bonnet sound insulation mat and shorting everything against the metal bonnet in mid-drive somewhere... My answer was to get some talcum powder and dust the top of both terminals with it, and then fully close the bonnet. This gave the following result:
180264
It clearly showed that only the earth terminal was touching the matting. I can live with that. The better news was that I then started fumbling about where it touched, wanting to get a feel for any earthing risk if it rubbed through: by pure luck, and obviously because the Gods of the mad tinkerer love me, I discovered that the talcum spot is slap in the middle of a recess/gap in the lower part of the bonnet:
180265
So the message is, it will just about fit, but if you are worried, tweak and adjust before any metal bashing or hole drilling in order to get that terminal under that lovely little hole...
I also then removed the plastic fold away handle from this end of the battery - it means that the earth strap has a bit more room as it rounds the upper corner of the battery:
180267
Finally, drilled and filed a suitable hole in the OEM battery cover to run the cable to the cranking positive terminal: it's not water tight, but you're deluding yourself if you think that cover is, anyway:
180268
End Result before running accessory cables. Note that I also rigged a minimal height clamp from a bit of gal plate - much lower than the commercial plastic handles, but watch for accidental shorting if you go this route(!) The. butterfly nuts are temporary, because the bloody threads they are on are not metric, and. I don't have any substitute nuts to hand - so I've ground down the tops to stop them rubbing holes in the matting - I'll replace them with cone lock nuts when I get the time, to reduce the profile a bit further...
180266