Discovery 4 for Lap Around Australia Towing 3t Hybrid

[LizOlive]

Hi - we are planning a lap around Australia next year … just ordered our off road Hybrid Camper which has an ATM of 3000kg. Looking for a car to tow it and the Discovery 4 is looking like it might be a good option (it will also be my everyday car for dropping kids off etc). Have been reading some horror stories of failures with the disco 4’s but - just wondering if there is anything we should look out for? For towing is the TDV or SDV better and would you go a 3L or 2.7L? I think from what I’ve read the SDV 3L would give more torque? Thanks for your help!

[scarry]

The D4 2.7L is more reliable,but they are getting on a bit now,they will be 10 yrs old at least.
With a tune they will pull that weight no worries.Even without they are still pretty good.

Depends on your budget,I would probably go the latest D4 you can find,it will be a 3.0L.
Service records are a must have.
A good look over the vehicle,before purchase,by an Indie is also a must.

Sure,a few had engine failures,and other issues,it just depends on your luck.

Anyway,good luck with it all.

[Jpdv]

Oh go on then, I'll start -(hah! - beaten to the punch!) let's see how people react... All personal, but:

1. I'd go for the 3.0L. Perversely, slightly better fuel economy because of the improvements, and the 2.7L has an issue with oil pumps that can be a pain...

2. Yes the SDV6 has more torque - but it's the exact same engine as the TDV6, just in a higher state of tune. Both are rated to tow 3.5 tonnes, so I very deliberately chose the lower tune TDV6 on the theory that its likely to be less stressed over its lifetime, translating into less issues... This is only my theory, but if you're doing a big lap, maximising your reliability 'potential' will be a good thing. If you're a heavy footed speed boy, you may prefer the SDV6 - but then why are you in a 2.5 tonne SUV?(!)

3. Depending on budget, the 8 speed (newer) transmission can be seen as 'even better' than the 6 speed - it has some refinements that make it very reliable indeed if properly serviced. I'd go for one of them.

4. Look for one that hasn't had lots of boy-racer engine tuning/remapping/throttle adjustment/EGR deletion nonsense - its all an additional layer of complexity to go wrong, and its all assuming that an aftermarket salesman or a local mechanic (or an internet expert...) knows more than the LR design team and over 1 million examples learnt about making this vehicle run properly.

5. The only real show stopper, that would bring you to a permanent grinding halt at the side of the road (literally...) is a snapped crankshaft. It's a known issue that seems to occur more or less randomly in respect to mileage and vehicle history. (but note the reinforcing of my comments about tweaking and aggressive driving above...) This is a bit of a 'pays your money, takes your chances' issue, but again, a well maintained not over-tweaked example is the best insurance against this. And before everyone says a Toyota would avoid any such issues: you could be in the middle of the Toyota class action affecting a number of their vehicles... If this issue would keep you awake at night, get a different vehicle.

It's one of the best long distance swiss army knife cars out there. Just don't overload the roof or the tow ball, and enjoy!

[envee]

We tow a 2.5t van behind our 2014 SDV6 SE and it does it with ease and in comfort. I think the biggest thing to keep in mind is the lack of dealers and indies able to work on them in regional and remote areas. So long as you are aware of and comfortable with this and have some sort of plan in the event of needing work done on it when you're not close to civilisation then do it!! Being able to change the height when hitching / unhitching is a very useful feature too. [thumbsupbig]

Things to look for? Regular servicing definately, preferably earlier than the LR 26,000km schedule. If it's had the inlet manifolds done that's a bonus. Ours has done 122,000 km and we had ours done a few months ago. A common fault that you will find mentioned quite a bit on here. Not cheap either.

Good luck with your decision.

[scarry]

The oil pump issue in the 2.7L was sorted years before in the D3.
Never heard on here or anywhere else of a D4 2.7 having the issue.

The equivalent Toyota to a D4 is not involved in any DPF class actions.
The vehicles that are,have been sorted(eventually)and also now have an extended 10 yr warranty on DPF issues.

A minor issue compared with an engine failure….

[BMKal]

There is no issue that I am aware of with oil pumps in the D4 2.7 litre.
There is hardly any noticeable difference in fuel economy between 2.7 and 3.0 diesels in the D4.
There is no difference in "reliability" between the 6 speed and the 8 speed ZF auto.
There is nothing at all wrong with "remapping" the ECU provided it is done for the right reason and by someone who knows what they are doing.
There is nothing at all wrong with blanking / removing the EGR valves and taking them out of the ECU programming, again provided that it is done by someone who knows what they are doing. In fact, my experience is that people who know these engines well (2.7 and 3.0) will recommend this procedure - it has certainbly made a very noticeable improvement to my 2.7 D4.
There IS a known issue with inlet manifold failure with the 3.0 litre which as far as I am aware, does not affect the 2.7 V6.
There IS a known issue with crankshaft failure with the 3.0 litre which again, as far as I am aware, the 2.7 is not known for. However, there are many more 3.0 litre V6 Disco's on the road which have never suffered these failures than the number which have (especially the crank issue). As already said on this post - pay your money and take your chances. There is NO evidence that the SDV6 is more prone to failures than is the TDV6 - nor is there any evidence that remapping / tuning / EGR removal contributes to these failures.

Having said all that, if I was in your position, I would probably choose the 3.0 litre SDV6 with the 8 speed ZF auto transmission - for the following reasons :
1. As already stated above, the 2.7 is getting long in the tooth now - at least 10 years since LR stopped using them (though they did survive for a little bit longer in the Ford Territory).
2. For towing, I would look at the combination of more powerful engine with the greater number of gears - meaning the the entire drivetrain is likely to be working not as hard.

I have never towed anything as heavy as 3 tonne behind my 2.7 litre D4, but I have pulled some reasonably heavy loads on trailers occasionally - mine still does it with ease, but I am not looking at long distance towing as you are. Another option which might be worth a look is the petrol V8. I don't know a lot about them, but have heard that they are VERY reliable these days. With the way fuel prices are these days - the price advantage that diesel used to have is long gone - the only advantage now is litres consumed. Maintenance costs I am told are LESS for the petrol V8 than for the diesels (would need to confirm this with someone who actually owns one as I am only going on hearsay).

Whichever one you choose though - you won't find anything better, especially for comfort, economy and off road capability. I test drove a new Toyota 300 Series last week (just for interest). I would still rather my 11 year old Discovery 4 any day of the week - especially when you consider the price Toyota is asking for what, in my opinion, is nothing special at all. If I was to look Japanese, I would consider the new Nissan Patrol before a cruiser.

[SimmAus]

Owned a 2.7L 6sp ZF D4 and now a 3.0L 8sp ZF D4. Never towed.
Agree with all comments above. The 3.0L 8sp seems more “refined”…and has lots of get up an go compared to the 2.7L.

Both awesome touring vehicles, but you have to be an “active” owner. Watch service intervals…read up on known issues (most can be semi predicted, managed through maintenance). You get what you pay for…yes, it’s more expensive than a Jap/Asian vehicle…and you can see/feel where.
Good luck

[gavinwibrow]

Hi - we are planning a lap around Australia next year … just ordered our off road Hybrid Camper which has an ATM of 3000kg. Looking for a car to tow it and the Discovery 4 is looking like it might be a good option (it will also be my everyday car for dropping kids off etc). Have been reading some horror stories of failures with the disco 4’s but - just wondering if there is anything we should look out for? For towing is the TDV or SDV better and would you go a 3L or 2.7L? I think from what I’ve read the SDV 3L would give more torque? Thanks for your help!

I've towed a 3.5T high brick with a 2010 2.7 from Perth to N Qld and back via the centre and returning via Darwin. Added a light remap via DazzaTD5 before we went and it transformed a very good vehicle into an excellent one.
Then moved up to a 2016 TDV6 (with 8 speed) and towed the beast to Sydney for a wedding and where Cambo did his magic with basically a RRS tune and gearbox refinement. Was good before and then excellent after on the way back to Perth. 8 speed definitely has better economy.
Being an old fart, I normally travel averaging at about 90 depending on road and weather conditions, but if I sit on 100 economy drops to about 24L/100 km.
I do religiously service every 10-12K km, plus I'm anal about the time based service requirements.

[LizOlive]

Thank you all so much for replying!

So it sounds like the 3.0L engine with 8 gears is the way to go.

Another follow up question! If there was a choice between a 2016 car with >200000km or a 2013 car with >100000km which would be the better choice? Assuming they both have had regular servicing?

Is there a certain number of KM where most of the major servicing has been done?

Crank shaft failure seems like it’s just the luck of the draw! If we found a car that already had this replaced would this be a good thing or something to avoid?

Thanks again!

[scarry]

Crank shaft failure seems like it’s just the luck of the draw! If we found a car that already had this replaced would this be a good thing or something to avoid?

Thanks again!

That is the million dollar question,there are some around that have had more than one engine change.

For me i would rather the vehicle with original engine.
I wouldnt want one that has been pulled apart and hopefully put back together properly,and possibly fitted with an engine from a wreck.
A new engine would be the better outcome,with reciepts.

Just my 2cents worth.

[Jpdv]

Another follow up question! If there was a choice between a 2016 car with >200000km or a 2013 car with >100000km which would be the better choice? Assuming they both have had regular servicing?

I got a 2016 MY with 199000 on the clock: The service history included the 'belt change service' (at around 150,000 from memory?) which is a big, expensive job. (potentially a body off, long process - think a $5k (or worse) service with all the little jobs it makes sense to do at that point...) That, and a great history from a single LR dedicated service centre were the deciding issues for me. I didn't want to buy 'just before' that service came due... The vehicle has been good so far... (and of course I'm now putting money aside for the next big service at around 300k!! But at least it's some way off.)

[letherm]

I have a low mileage (51000km) 2013 HSE bought from new. It has mainly done a lot of short 5-10km trips and I treat servicing on the arduous schedule because of that so get a minor service done at 6 months and major at 12. I had dealer servicing up to warranty end and since have gone to an Indy specialist.

The belts should be changed by time service at 6 years from memory. I had them changed a year or two after that as a precautionary measure as I want to keep the vehicle. Check to see what has been done on both and make a decision accordingly. As said above it's the luck of the draw but personally I would go with a lower mileage if it's been looked after given that it's only a couple of years older.

Martin

[loanrangie]

I have a low mileage (51000km) 2013 HSE bought from new. It has mainly done a lot of short 5-10km trips and I treat servicing on the arduous schedule because of that so get a minor service done at 6 months and major at 12. I had dealer servicing up to warranty end and since have gone to an Indy specialist.

The belts should be changed by time service at 6 years from memory. I had them changed a year or two after that as a precautionary measure as I want to keep the vehicle. Check to see what has been done on both and make a decision accordingly. As said above it's the luck of the draw but personally I would go with a lower mileage if it's been looked after given that it's only a couple of years older.

Martin

7 years or 180K for the 3.0 litre.

[Porker]

I purchased a 2014 D4 with 199k km on it just over 2 months ago, it has a full service history from new and I must say it is the most refined 4x4 I have ever owned or driven. Before I purchased it I did the usual study as to what can go wrong and decided to take my chance.
It developed a whistling noise a couple of weeks ago upon accelerating and was particularly bad coasting down a hill,I have just gotten it back from a local indie who diagnosed it as a cracked exhaust gasket initially but upon removal of the body it was a cracked turbo on the lhs bank.
I did expect to have to do some repairs but I didn’t think I’d have to do a turbo but as soon as I hopped in the car a drove it again all is forgiven.
The main reason I purchased this particular D4 other than the full service history was the previous owner traded it on a new Defender which I took as he was very happy with his choice of car.

Best of luck with your decision.

Regards Paul.

[Grahame Roberts]

Hi - we are planning a lap around Australia next year … just ordered our off road Hybrid Camper which has an ATM of 3000kg. Looking for a car to tow it and the Discovery 4 is looking like it might be a good option (it will also be my everyday car for dropping kids off etc). Have been reading some horror stories of failures with the disco 4’s but - just wondering if there is anything we should look out for? For towing is the TDV or SDV better and would you go a 3L or 2.7L? I think from what I’ve read the SDV 3L would give more torque? Thanks for your help!

Greetings
Have a look at ‘LR Time’ videos on YouTube.

[DiscoChris]

Regardless of whatever vehicle you select, don't leave home without RACV Total Care (or your state roadside assist equivalent). We did a turbo on the Atherton Tablelands and within an hour of the call, the vehicle and caravan were being towed 150km into Cairns. Caravan to Caravan Park and vehicle to an indie for repairs. Total car covered the cost of all towing, CP fees and car rental for the week while the turbo was replaced. I would not leave home on a long trip without that insurance.

For reference our vehicle was a 2012 D4, had completed 2 trips over Simpson Desert (not towing), the Gibb River Road towing 3.5t van, the PDR towing 3.5t van and all up 180,000km when turbo failed. In 2020 we upgraded as we love the LR discos.

[Melbourne Park]

Thank you all so much for replying!

So it sounds like the 3.0L engine with 8 gears is the way to go.

Another follow up question! If there was a choice between a 2016 car with >200000km or a 2013 car with >100000km which would be the better choice? Assuming they both have had regular servicing?

Is there a certain number of KM where most of the major servicing has been done?

Crank shaft failure seems like it’s just the luck of the draw! If we found a car that already had this replaced would this be a good thing or something to avoid?

Thanks again!
I'm not sure, did the 8 speed arrive in 2013? Lower mileage must be a plus, but the type of mileage can mitigate that. A country vehicle can have little wear but high miles. A one owner counts too IMO. Or at least, a long period of ownership from the seller?

The 8 speed requires a kit to change its transmission fluid, and Land Rover service basically do not want to do it. It needs to be done by ZF specialists . Since the fluid turns to custard, I'd ensure that the transmission fluid has been changed in the higher mileage vehicle. Same too for the 100k one if its towed ... and then, only a one owner might tell you the truth about the towing. Some argue too that a diesel that has towed is actually better for the engine.

An SD or HSE have much better driving seats. The TD seats don't have lower back support. If you're tall from the waist to your eyes, this would not be an issue, as when the TD seats are set on their lowest height, they give OK support and are more comfortable than when raised, from my tests of the different vehicles when new. I could not get comfortable in the TD seats. I am 5 foot 8 or so, but my legs are long. So I am short "trunked". Hence I spent more so I could raise the seat height, and still be comfortable. One does spend a lot of time in the seat when touring Australia!

As to fuel economy, my 2014 HSE tows a 2.5 tonne A.O.R. Matrix, and I get 15 km per 100, on GPS km, before I changed to 60 profile fatter tyres, where now my mileage is accurate. My economy goes from 12.4 to 17 depending on speed and whether I am climbing or going down hill. Its surprising how when for instance I approached Port Augusta from Mildura on the way to Alice Springs, my fuel economy was poor ... I stopped and checked for tyre and brake issues a couple of times.
It turned out I was gaining altitude. The LR navigation has a window which shows the altitude and other stuff, and its very handy if you play fuel economy games. I do as it keeps me alert. I got 10 litres /100km driving from Sheep Yard Flat to Melbourne (Brighton) and I drove on the Hume at 110 on the (then) not accurate speedometer. I stayed with the traffic. But that was a downhill run ... But I had emptied all the water from my van, and the wind was behind me. Traffic was on the freeway too, so that all made for an unbelievable fuel run.

When the time comes a big service will cost much more than a Toyota (and I still have my bought new 1997 Prado) - but the fuel economy differences will make up for the extra service cost. And the steering accuracy is a big safety factor too - unlike Toyotas. Except for the 300 series Landcruisers, which would probably I imagine, provide better fuel consumption than the D4 3 litre 8 speeds do. But they are not cheap!

Don't forget too to budget for some improvements. Such as guards for the air tank, etc. A decent jacking system. Protect the rear window too for off road. Get a camera setup (Lazy Dave is good) for the rear of the caravan. Range from the tank is more limited that Toyotas, so if the van can handle a jerry or two of diesel, that is a plus. A siphon hose is best to refill. Range might be an issue in some places - although I am a bit off road orientated, so I am more range focused. A second battery setup gives piece of mind. So too a bull bar. And a CB radio setup might be good, an aerial will be needed. Tinted side windows are a big benefit IMO. Tick the windscreen replacement extra for the insurance, the windscreens are costly especially due to the electronics in the windscreen. Bring a windscreen repair kit with you too, they are amazing, but it is much better to stop and fix it straight away. Mine has two (or three?) repairs I think. But the screen is original. Good luck.