Coolant in the Valley..tdv6

[Bulletman]

G'day All,
Long story short , what I thought was oil cooler gasket leak turns out to be coolant in the valley not oil.. The coolant manifold isn't leaking at the usual seem and was replaced genuine 3 yrs ago , so assuming it's possible that the sealing orings are leaking.
Is there any other coolant pipes that run in the V that can leak coolant into the valley.
From the pics I have managed to see I can't see any and it looks as though the oil is cooler by diesel thru the cooler. I think I am reading the diagram correctly.

Can anyone advise if that's correct or any other ways to get coolant into the Valley.
Thanks and cheers Bulletman

[PerthDisco]

The oil cooler is cooled by coolant. The valley coolant plastic fitting sits over the oil cooler. There’s an oring there as well as the two where the plastic fitting sits on the block.

[Bulletman]

The oil cooler is cooled by coolant. The valley coolant plastic fitting sits over the oil cooler. There’s an oring there as well as the two where the plastic fitting sits on the block.
Makes more sense it's cooled from the cooling system not the fuel system but was a black and white diagram so was hard to follow. That's my excuse anyway...
I have a new coolant manifold or whatever it's known as so I might change it out and see what happens.

Cheers Bulletman

[PerthDisco]

Makes more sense it's cooled from the cooling system not the fuel system but was a black and white diagram so was hard to follow. That's my excuse anyway...
I have a new coolant manifold or whatever it's known as so I might change it out and see what happens.

Cheers Bulletman

That oring for the oil cooler is sold separately. It’s part of the oil cooler and you get a new one with that or buy separately. AF sell it separately. It is a huge candidate for a leak if old and never previously replaced.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220822/48cc5dc1e080a3082272e55e5059429d.jpg

See it here where the coolant fitting sits on the cooler.

The two orange rags are where the fitting sits over the block.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220822/dfc68a06a7520ad97b77abc23a7249c2.jpg

New cooler new oring

[Pippin]

That oring for the oil cooler is sold separately. It’s part of the oil cooler and you get a new one with that or buy separately. AF sell it separately. It is a huge candidate for a leak if old and never previously replaced.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220822/48cc5dc1e080a3082272e55e5059429d.jpg

See it here where the coolant fitting sits on the cooler.

The two orange rags are where the fitting sits over the block.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220822/dfc68a06a7520ad97b77abc23a7249c2.jpg

New cooler new oringI'm just about to replace the oil cooler how long did it take you? Nick

[PerthDisco]

Watch the videos from LR Time and Shane Shed and don’t be in a rush. 95% of it is straight forward. I had it running again the next day but also you have to factor in some serious cleaning an oil change and new coolant.

If you’ve never cleaned the intake Y from all the EGR gunk you can lose a few hours just on this. Plenty of rags and brake cleaner. I used diesel and a toothbrush for the intake Y.

Last but not least all that wiring harness plastic conduit will fragment and fall off hence the need for careful protection of all openings. Use the opportunity to remove it and replace with harness cloth tape. Have a vacuum cleaner on hand to remove it.

You can see this in the second photo. The harness for the glow plugs you completely remove so you can clean and dress these items up perfectly.

[Deeb0]

I noticed that there was a more offset than I would have liked between the oil cooler and the thermostat housing, squishing that oring. There's a thin black gasket between the cooler and the block, if it goes just do the whole unit.

I did the change last weekend and it took me 9-10 hours but I did stuff around and was careful. You could knock out out quicker as long as you can get the separator out and in with too much trouble. It's fairly straight forward anyway.

For the 2.7L, a good 8mm long socket with a uni joint helped me. A stubbie 10mm spanner for the coolant crossover pipe helps too. 3 out of 4 glow plugs came out easy after penetrant. The flexible hose clamp pliers were the hero on the day.

[PerthDisco]

I noticed that there was a more offset than I would have liked between the oil cooler and the thermostat housing, squishing that oring. There's a thin black gasket between the cooler and the block, if it goes just do the whole unit.

I did the change last weekend and it took me 9-10 hours but I did stuff around and was careful. You could knock out out quicker as long as you can get the separator out and in with too much trouble. It's fairly straight forward anyway.

For the 2.7L, a good 8mm long socket with a uni joint helped me. A stubbie 10mm spanner for the coolant crossover pipe helps too. 3 out of 4 glow plugs came out easy after penetrant. The flexible hose clamp pliers were the hero on the day.

Yep new glow plugs is the smart extra which I did not do at the time. However even a cold Perth winter is not that cold.

[Pippin]

Watch the videos from LR Time and Shane Shed and don’t be in a rush. 95% of it is straight forward. I had it running again the next day but also you have to factor in some serious cleaning an oil change and new coolant.

If you’ve never cleaned the intake Y from all the EGR gunk you can lose a few hours just on this. Plenty of rags and brake cleaner. I used diesel and a toothbrush for the intake Y.

Last but not least all that wiring harness plastic conduit will fragment and fall off hence the need for careful protection of all openings. Use the opportunity to remove it and replace with harness cloth tape. Have a vacuum cleaner on hand to remove it.

You can see this in the second photo. The harness for the glow plugs you completely remove so you can clean and dress these items up perfectly.Having watched Shanes video on getting the Oil Separator out many times over and after much swearing and cursing I realised that there is a difference with mine being an 09 D3 as it has an extra hose attached at the rear which you can't see stopping it coming out. Off to Repco to get a flexible hose clamp remover which should do the trick I hope. Nice design Landrover!

[PerthDisco]

Having watched Shanes video on getting the Oil Separator out many times over and after much swearing and cursing I realised that there is a difference with mine being an 09 D3 as it has an extra hose attached at the rear which you can't see stopping it coming out. Off to Repco to get a flexible hose clamp remover which should do the trick I hope. Nice design Landrover!

Yes the later EU4 fuel pump is slightly different. I had to follow the LR Time how to to extract the separator. It totally had me defeated. Remove as many plugs as possible so you don’t damage any wires nearby.

[BradC]

Having watched Shanes video on getting the Oil Separator out many times over and after much swearing and cursing I realised that there is a difference with mine being an 09 D3 as it has an extra hose attached at the rear which you can't see stopping it coming out. Off to Repco to get a flexible hose clamp remover which should do the trick I hope. Nice design Landrover!

Yeah, I got mine off using a small G-clamp but I bought the flexible hose clamp pliers to put it back on.
http://fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0158.JPG

http://fnarfbargle.com/private/190405-HPFP-Day4/SAM_0266.JPG

[PerthDisco]

Yeah, I got mine off using a small G-clamp but I bought the flexible hose clamp pliers to put it back on.
http://fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0158.JPG

http://fnarfbargle.com/private/190405-HPFP-Day4/SAM_0266.JPG

That flexible clamp tool is one of the most handy thing you will ever buy