Picking up the S2A - piccies

[Omaroo]

Well. That was FUN.

We drove up to Buladelah yesterday morning in my Defender and finally found the place right on lunch time. Total trip time from Lake Macquarie was 2 hours, 30 mins and about 210km.

We met Tracey-Lee (the previous owner) and she proceeded to show us the vehicle. The paint has deteriorated as expected, but the chassis is as clean as a whistle in terms of rust. There is none. Anywhere. The engine needs some carburettor work as it's leaking a little, which might also have to do with the idle revs being way too high. Might be running rich too, although no smoke at all out of the pipe at speed. There are a bunch of rotten rubber pipes under the bonnet, so replacing those with now ones might seal a few nasty vacuum leaks, etc too.

I worked out the gearbox within a mile or two and we were on the way! It cruised the freeway (when it got up some initial momentum) at an indicated 60mph without problem. A couple of times it got away and reached nearly 70. I didn't want to go faster even though it could have. The engine is, for whatever reason, very smooth - not really revvy, but almost silky at most engine speeds. The gearbox and transmission is so LOUD (especially on throttle-off overrun) that I couldn't hear myself think. Geez - it would really be an ask to drive one of these around Australia - or even to Melbourne. Wow! It took concentration and a certain amount of bravado to drive these things long distances fast. Is every gear straight-cut or something???

Anyhoo - I got it back to Lake Mac the long way around (after Murray decided to turn left at Hexham and take the highway through Charlestown rather than the freeway through Morriset as planned so that I could catch up with Dobbo. Sorry Dobbo - I'll bring her around over the next couple of weeks - promise!

All up - 237km, half a tank of unleaded (with valve lube additive), a rattly brain and no hearing left to speak of and it's at its new home. I feel good saving another Land Rover from a potentially ignominious end if it had gone to a non-enthusiast. REMLR - here we come.

What a great old bus. I want I want I want!

(Update: Jenny found a 1972 S2A for $500 today - so we may go and get that this weekend..... fingers crossed)

Piccies:

http://www.omaroo.net/albums/album27/P7260005.sized.jpg

http://www.omaroo.net/albums/album27/P7260003.sized.jpg


http://www.omaroo.net/albums/album27/P7260004.sized.jpg


http://www.omaroo.net/albums/album27/P7260008.sized.jpg


http://www.omaroo.net/albums/album27/P7260009.sized.jpg

Murray with his new toy :)
http://www.omaroo.net/albums/album27/P7260010.sized.jpg


http://www.omaroo.net/albums/album27/P7260013.sized.jpg


http://www.omaroo.net/albums/album27/P7260014.sized.jpg

Chassis number is as expected... 25315896c


1.Series 2A 109" G.S. 1966 model. Census No. c6028 (G.S. Gen/Service)
2. Chassis Number 25315896c (should be)
3. Engine Number 25243626H. (already knew that one)
4. Army Rego No. 113-926.
5. Disposed of in Victoria (Sthrn Comm.)
6. 1 of 3,727 109" Land Rovers used by Aus/Army.
7. 1 of 240 G.S. Land Rovers with ARN commencing with 113.
http://www.omaroo.net/albums/album27/P7260015.sized.jpg

[Redback]

Gotta love those electrics, a mess of wires:eek: what was Lucas on, when he designed them.

[JDNSW]

Looks like a very good example. Most of the noise probably comes from the transfer case - these usually produce some noise, but rarely fail. The noise is emphasised by the total lack of insulation and probably holes in the floor that let more noise in. Replacing the bearings may improve matters, but they are never really quiet by modern standards. There is oil in the transfer and gear boxes?

If an overdrive is fitted these are usually noisy to very noisy when engaged (lever forwarded), and overhauling it is likely to be worthwhile. Again, quieter with oil in it.

The 2.25 engine is actually a very good engine in my view, not particularly powerful or economical, but usually very smooth and quiet unless the tappets need adjusting, very durable, and stands an awful lot of abuse.
John

[Ace]

Good stuff chris, bring it to the BBQ we can blow the cobwebs out of it. :D

[Omaroo]

Looks like a very good example. Most of the noise probably comes from the transfer case - these usually produce some noise, but rarely fail. The noise is emphasised by the total lack of insulation and probably holes in the floor that let more noise in. Replacing the bearings may improve matters, but they are never really quiet by modern standards. There is oil in the transfer and gear boxes?

If an overdrive is fitted these are usually noisy to very noisy when engaged (lever forwarded), and overhauling it is likely to be worthwhile. Again, quieter with oil in it.

The 2.25 engine is actually a very good engine in my view, not particularly powerful or economical, but usually very smooth and quiet unless the tappets need adjusting, very durable, and stands an awful lot of abuse.
John

Cheers John :)

We'll be addressing a total fluidic transfusion over the next few days. You're right - the overdrive is unbelievably noisy - so oil levels might be low. What oils would you recommend for this vehicles' engine, gearbox, T/case, diffs?

Another point - I could not get the overdrive to disengage once I'd come off the freeway. In the backwards position it provides no drive at all. However - it did before we made it on to the freeway at the beginning of our journey. Any thoughts?

Cheers
Chris

[Omaroo]

Good stuff chris, bring it to the BBQ we can blow the cobwebs out of it. :D

hehe.. I'm having a right royal time driving on the flat...... :(

I think that I have clutch problems on the Defender too ATM. I've been putting off swapping the master, so I'll try to get it done this W/E. I have an awful feeling that my clutch itself may be done too. Today it started the dreaded shudder at take-off.... :(

We're trying to make it to your BBQ though....... :)

[Ace]

We're trying to make it to your BBQ though....... :)

Goodo, i am sure you will sort it. Matt

[UncleHo]

G'day Omaroo:)
That is one clean looking 2a:D are you going to return it to Military specs ? if so you have a good start, and you could leave it as a windowed hardtop, the speedo on my 2a G.S. reads about 10 MPH over as 100kph is getting close to WARP speed:D Yes the transfer gears are straight cut, the best way to sus out the Gearbox/transfer box, is to first check the oil levels (both use EP 90) as do the diffs, and swivel housings, (OMD 220) if you put a tube of "Wynns Gear box and Diff "treatment in the T/fer case it should quieten down markedly, if the speedo needle wavers a bit, check that the rear output nut ( on the flange under the front of rear uni joint 1" nut) it should be at about 80 foot/pounds, as it is what holds the speedo drive tight, it also allows the rear shaft to move and wear the rear oil seal;) the radiator should have a shroud that attaches to the radiator sides, that covers the miltary fan, it looks like it still has it's original Solex carb, but has been fitted with late series2a/3 anti pollution gear, as 1966 models did not have any A/P gear fitted,it did not come it until 1970, the engine colour looks like a military reco as the different Base W/shops each had an allocated colour, all in all it is one very clean unit, congrats:D



Yes, it is possible to go to sleep driving a Series 2a on along trip, even with Bar-Treads:eek: :D

Bung-Tiddley
Uncle Ho :)

[JDNSW]

Cheers John :)

We'll be addressing a total fluidic transfusion over the next few days. You're right - the overdrive is unbelievably noisy - so oil levels might be low. What oils would you recommend for this vehicles' engine, gearbox, T/case, diffs?

Another point - I could not get the overdrive to disengage once I'd come off the freeway. In the backwards position it provides no drive at all. However - it did before we made it on to the freeway at the beginning of our journey. Any thoughts?

Cheers
Chris

Engine is not particularly fussy about oil - I use Castrol 20-50, change at 5000km, 3000m (I assume it has an imperial speedo). All gear systems - gearbox, transfer case, both axles, swivels, overdrive specify EP90, on recommendation from those who should know, I am using fully synthetic gear oil in the overdrive, but I am not sure if it makes any difference.

The overdrive has three positions - Direct-Neutral-Overdrive to Front. The overdrive needs checking - most likely simply the teeth lined up, or may be out of oil, for example, or the pinch bolt of the selector fork on the selector rod may need tightening (in the right place - remove top cover to see this) if it won't go into direct, or it may be something more serious. There is very little movement between direct and neutral.

The overdrive, by the way should not be used except in third and fourth, although there should be no problems if you treat the throttle lightly.
John

[UncleHo]

G'day Omaroo :)
Wasn't aware of the O'drive, "Wynns" gear/diff in that too will shut them up as well, they have a VERY small oil sump and need regular checking, if it is ex-military it should have a removable panel under the centre seat, may even still have the tilly box :) you can access the tranie from there;)

cheers.:)

[Omaroo]

Thanks Uncle :)

It's not mine, so I can't speak for Murray. I've had good luck so far in convincing him to try and re-originate it, but he has a specific duty in mind for it at the moment. I think that I'll probably find him another one in time (civvy) and swap him. I'd definitely try to restore her back to spec if I could.

WARP speed.... LOL!!! :D It certainly felt like it. This is the first vehicle I've driven firmly two-handed in quite a while. Fast sweeping bends really take some concentration...

The speedo needle is quite stable - very little flickering, if any at all.


Yes, it is possible to go to sleep driving a Series 2a on along trip, even with Bar-Treads:eek: :D

Seriously?????? :eek::eek:

LOL!!:clap2:

[Omaroo]

Thanks for all the advice John and Uncle. It's much appreciated. I'll get into the beast over the next week or two and let you know if it was just fluid-starved, or whether there are a couple of problems that need sorting.

I feel good finding a good home for her, and I kind of get the feeling that this 2A won't be the last....

Cheers
Chris

[djam1]

The Land Rover that you bought in many ways is the ultimate Land Rover in my book.
The four cylinder engine was fantastic it could be siezed up because of excessive heat ignored for a couple of hours to let it cool down then driven off with few ill effects. Try that with a V8 or TD5!!
I have seen these things washed away in floods retreived a few days later and driven off once the dreadful electics are dried out.
Apart from the Rover Diff in the rear that will have regular axle failures if used even reasonably hard that vehicle will be very durable. (put a Salsbury in it)
Have a read of a book called the Asian Highway written by Jack Jackson it will give you an understanding of the sheer durability of this model or any of Len Beadel's books, durability beyond that can be imagined today in nearly all countries.
The series 2a chassis is vastly superior to the series 3 as it was hand built, I know what I speak of is against modern thinking but trust me these things were about as good as they get when it comes to all out durability.
However it will be an uncomfortable $#^%* to drive and it will ride like a tank. I recall that Spencer Wilks once said when a journo suggested that they should put coil springs in a Land Rover that if a drive was continually hitting his head on the roof he would slow down thus preserving the vehicle.
LOL

Enjoy it

[JDNSW]

Personally I prefer the 2a to the S3, but they are getting to be rather thin on the ground. After my trip to Penrith and back last weekend in the 2a I feel that they can be quite comfortable for long trips - biggest problem was the noise, although it has floor mats, lined doors and some added floor insulation and the rough ride (It rides better with half a tonne or so in the back, but I certainly was not taking that to Sydney for no reason except ride). But it drives very nicely at 100kph, although perhaps more comfortable at 90 - 95.
John

[Omaroo]

The Land Rover that you bought in many ways is the ultimate Land Rover in my book.
The four cylinder engine was fantastic it could be siezed up because of excessive heat ignored for a couple of hours to let it cool down then driven off with few ill effects. Try that with a V8 or TD5!!
I have seen these things washed away in floods retreived a few days later and driven off once the dreadful electics are dried out.
Apart from the Rover Diff in the rear that will have regular axle failures if used even reasonably hard that vehicle will be very durable. (put a Salsbury in it)
Have a read of a book called the Asian Highway written by Jack Jackson it will give you an understanding of the sheer durability of this model or any of Len Beadel's books, durability beyond that can be imagined today in nearly all countries.
The series 2a chassis is vastly superior to the series 3 as it was hand built, I know what I speak of is against modern thinking but trust me these things were about as good as they get when it comes to all out durability.
However it will be an uncomfortable $#^%* to drive and it will ride like a tank. I recall that Spencer Wilks once said when a journo suggested that they should put coil springs in a Land Rover that if a drive was continually hitting his head on the roof he would slow down thus preserving the vehicle.
LOL

Enjoy it

Thanks djam1, I'll certainly try and get a hold of the book so thanks for the heads up!

I have to say that after crawling around underneath with a ball-peened hammer tapping the chassis every couple of inches waiting to hear a dull thud - all I heard was a nice steel bell. The chassis looks new - it's incredible.

Head on the roof? LOL! Pseudo governor:D

Cheers :)
Chris

[George130]

So what are the 2A's worth on average?
I know where there is one like this that hasn't moved in 3 years and there is a shorty next to it that also hasn't moved.

[JDNSW]

So what are the 2A's worth on average?
I know where there is one like this that hasn't moved in 3 years and there is a shorty next to it that also hasn't moved.

It all depends on condition - there is no such thing as average. If it is running and roadworthy with a pink slip, not less than maybe $2000, up to perhaps $3500, more for a station wagon, but if it does not meet these measures you have to start taking off this price what you will need to spend on it - and this soon gets the value down pretty low in most cases. If it has not run for several years (but was running when parked), it is likely that the major mechanical parts (engine/gearbox/axles) are OK, but the brakes and clutch hydraulics will almost certainly need overhauling, and this will cost hundreds, even if the brake linings do not need replacing. Then you have to ask - Why was it taken off the road? Often this will be because it failed a pink slip, and you have to ask why. If the reason is chassis or bulkhead rust, the value has just gone down to hundreds.

I have paid from $15 to $500 for unroadworthy 2as in the last few years. They are not rare enough yet to command high prices - there are plenty of S3s around in good shape to keep the market down, but I suspect that you would have to pay a small premium for a S2a in similar good condition to a S3, but even for S3 the market varies a lot with time and place - there are not that many changing hands at any particular time. Of course, any with a special history can be much higher, for example the Royal Review ones that changed hands recently for over $20,000.
John