Rear Airconditioner Conversion in a D3 S, your ideas?

[maxperformance]

Hi all,

Mine is just a very stock standard and simple D3 S Manual except it has factory air suspension, and I love it.

I want to convert the rear airconditioner into this one and already looked on the net including the forum but seems my computer could not get me to any direct links of the same work.

I could find a donor SE with all factory parts of this system. But I don't know which parts need to be collected and what need to be done.

More of technical talks and ideas are very welcome to support my small project.

Thanks a lot.

[veebs]

I don’t have anything intelligent to add, though keenly interested in how you get on with this.

From what I’ve seen, it’s a pretty intensive and thus rare retrofit.

[BradC]

Looking at it, it seems pretty straightfoward.

Looks like a body off for the refrigerant lines. Other than that if you have a complete donor vehicle aside from a bit of splicing to add the required loom wiring (if it's not already there) it should be just a case of swapping the bits in and some reconfiguration. The duct work looks fiddly, but not insurmountable.

[101RRS]

Why not just open the a/c vents at the back of the centre console - provides lots of cool air to the cargo area of my RRS if the vents are tilted up.

[loanrangie]

I wouldn't bother, barely used mine in the 5 years I've had it.

[Tombie]

I wouldn't bother, barely used mine in the 5 years I've had it.

You live in Melbourne [emoji41][emoji56]

Over here running the rear AC drops cabin temps quickly, without it takes a significantly longer period and the front unit keeps blowing colder/faster for a lot longer on auto to keep things cool…

Plus the dogs love it in summer!

[loanrangie]

You live in Melbourne [emoji41][emoji56]

Over here running the rear AC drops cabin temps quickly, without it takes a significantly longer period and the front unit keeps blowing colder/faster for a lot longer on auto to keep things cool…

Plus the dogs love it in summer!
It does get to high 30's to mid 40's here and
I find the front unit does a good enough job.
And my dogs sit on the back seat.

[maxperformance]

I know not everyone needs rear AC.

But I don't know how long I have to wait until I can get a 7 seater with factory rear AC (SE or HSE) with a D3 TDV6 Manual, not so quick or so lucky enough to get one on hands.

So the reason I want it to be done in a different way like this.

[BradC]

I know not everyone needs rear AC.

But I don't know how long I have to wait until I can get a 7 seater with factory rear AC (SE or HSE) with a D3 TDV6 Manual, not so quick or so lucky enough to get one on hands.

So the reason I want it to be done in a different way like this.

Probably be faster and easier to find a nice D3 HSE TDV6 with a lunched donk and swap your drivetrain over. Alternatively, just get a nice running HSE and swap the box over.

[loanrangie]

I know not everyone needs rear AC.

But I don't know how long I have to wait until I can get a 7 seater with factory rear AC (SE or HSE) with a D3 TDV6 Manual, not so quick or so lucky enough to get one on hands.

So the reason I want it to be done in a different way like this.

Dont hold your breath, the only manual D3's that came here were 5 seater coil S 2005 base models and you could count them on one hand.

[Arapiles]

If you're using the third row seats regularly the aircon is really worth having. The only drawback is that, unlike a couple of my previous cars, there's no temperature or fan control in the third row, which can cause issues.

In terms of retrofit, I understood that there was actually another compressor in the back, so it's not just a question of running lines to the vents.

[DiscoJeffster]

If you're using the third row seats regularly the aircon is really worth having. The only drawback is that, unlike a couple of my previous cars, there's no temperature or fan control in the third row, which can cause issues.

In terms of retrofit, I understood that there was actually another compressor in the back, so it's not just a question of running lines to the vents.

There isn’t another compressor. That’s on the engine. There is another evaporator in the back that you need to plum refrigerant to, which is what was discussed, along with AC ducting and a lot more.

[maxperformance]

Probably be faster and easier to find a nice D3 HSE TDV6 with a lunched donk and swap your drivetrain over. Alternatively, just get a nice running HSE and swap the box over.

This would be the 2nd option I think because that sounds a lot more works than what I might do with the rear AC conversion. But I might have a talk to some guys around Sydney to see if this is an option with them.

[BradC]

This would be the 2nd option I think because that sounds a lot more works than what I might do with the rear AC conversion. But I might have a talk to some guys around Sydney to see if this is an option with them.

Given you'll need to take the body off to do the AC pipes anyway.

If you were doing just the box :
- Flywheel / clutch
- Gearbox
- Pedal box
- Check wiring from clutch pedal to handbrake module and loom if necessary
- Update CCF to remove transmission ECU
- Interior console plastics

The interior console parts just clip on and off.

Then you get a nice manual HSE with all the fruit. I'd put a new flywheel & clutch in there while I had it apart, but that's just me.

The ducts don't look too onerous. Looks like the roof lining and C pillars need to come out.

180749

[maxperformance]

Given you'll need to take the body off to do the AC pipes anyway.

If you were doing just the box :
- Flywheel / clutch
- Gearbox
- Pedal box
- Check wiring from clutch pedal to handbrake module and loom if necessary
- Update CCF to remove transmission ECU
- Interior console plastics

The interior console parts just clip on and off.

Then you get a nice manual HSE with all the fruit. I'd put a new flywheel & clutch in there while I had it apart, but that's just me.

The ducts don't look too onerous. Looks like the roof lining and C pillars need to come out.

180749

Is there any other way to go around new fitment of pipes for the rear AC without body off?

I know it might not relevant but as far as I know from many aftermarket AC system for trucks or cars, they all use high profile rubber hoses for the whole system (which can be as long as 6m or more). Can we use the same high profile rubber hoses (or plus some pipes at some points) to go through the body without the body off?

[BradC]

Is there any other way to go around new fitment of pipes for the rear AC without body off?

I know it might not relevant but as far as I know from many aftermarket AC system for trucks or cars, they all use high profile rubber hoses for the whole system (which can be as long as 6m or more). Can we use the same high profile rubber hoses (or plus some pipes at some points) to go through the body without the body off?

Can't see why not. You still have to run the heater hoses, so run the new AC pipes along side.
Try and avoid heat soak into the liquid line and make sure the suction line pressure drop is at least as low as the original design (more friction in a flexi hose than a hard line).

[PhilipA]

I have to say that IMHO, unless you are a particular type of person, eg one who enjoys rebuilding a 1924 Austin 7 from a rusted wreck, then I would not undertake such a mission.
The value of the car would be absolutely unaffected so all your work and expense would have no monetary reward.
The unanticipated frustrations in finding that LR has changed some spec or other that makes it impossible to do some part of the job could drive you insane. Key wiring or piping may just not be available.

If you want such a complex spec change to your D3 , please buy a high spec D3 with rear air fitted at factory.

Those are my thoughts from a history of doing changes to cars that turn out to be 10 times more complex than anticipated.
Regards PhilipA

[swarover]

Max,

Sorry to hijack the thread. It seems we both have very rare D3's - manual S models with EAS. There are a handful of manual D3 S's with coils around, I've seen one over here and heard of a couple of others, but yours and mine are the only manual S's with EAS I've heard of in Aus. There was a manual SE on Carsales a few years ago, and that may be even rarer.

My D3 was delivered new by Mac Land Rover in Mt Gambier SA, to a rural western Victoria owner, I bought it from a Melbourne dealer after it had been traded. The manual gearbox appealed then and still does, its a great car, I love it.

Be interested to hear about other manual D3's out there.

By the way, the two AC outlets into the rear passenger area work very well on my car.

Cheers

[maxperformance]

@ BradC: You are convincing me to do the project LOL. I think to reduce the friction we can create an aluminium pipe frame (make the frame to hold the high profile rubber hoses). Or keep as much as factory pipes as possible until going through the body.

@PhilipA: I listen to you, and appreciate that you tell me from your experience. I will consider which way to go but it sounds like unless I find a HSE or SE or S with 7 seats and rear AC in manual (how lucky I could get it and in how many waiting years?), otherwise I will consider to grab a SE donor to go further on the project.

@ Swarover: yeah mate, I also heard of D3 S with coils only until I got the car. I had to asked the previous owner twice if it really had the factory air suspension. So you are 7 seats with factory rear AC?

[scarry]

It does get to high 30's to mid 40's here and
I find the front unit does a good enough job.
And my dogs sit on the back seat.

Same here,never used ours,found the front was more than adequate even using the vehicle in ambients of 40 degrees.

Brad is onto it,run the hoses outside maybe.Sure the body may need to come off at a later date,but the hoses could probably be easily removed if needed.
The AC is normally disconnected anyway.
The biggest issue would be finding an evaporator complete and sorting out the wiring.
I cant see why the heater hoses would also be needed,unless you want heating as well.

Compressor i presume is same size for both models,that is only front AC,or dual AC?

[loanrangie]

@ BradC: You are convincing me to do the project LOL. I think to reduce the friction we can create an aluminium pipe frame (make the frame to hold the high profile rubber hoses). Or keep as much as factory pipes as possible until going through the body.

@PhilipA: I listen to you, and appreciate that you tell me from your experience. I will consider which way to go but it sounds like unless I find a HSE or SE or S with 7 seats and rear AC in manual (how lucky I could get it and in how many waiting years?), otherwise I will consider to grab a SE donor to go further on the project.

@ Swarover: yeah mate, I also heard of D3 S with coils only until I got the car. I had to asked the previous owner twice if it really had the factory air suspension. So you are 7 seats with factory rear AC?Simply you will not find an SE or HSE manual unless it is a private import and even then very unlikely.

[BradC]

@ BradC: You are convincing me to do the project LOL. I think to reduce the friction we can create an aluminium pipe frame (make the frame to hold the high profile rubber hoses). Or keep as much as factory pipes as possible until going through the body.

No, I mean fluid friction inside the pipe. A flexible suction line will need to have a larger diameter than the original aluminium suction line to maintain the same pressure drop.


I cant see why the heater hoses would also be needed,unless you want heating as well.

Because it's temperature control relies on using the heater core to moderate the return air temperature. If you only ever want it "bloody cold" then you probably don't need to worry, but if you ever want it "not quite so cold" then you need the coolant lines to the rear as the control module will expect to be able to use the heat. Same reason the ATC in the front won't crank up properly unless the coolant is > ~40C and wants >60C before it'll try and moderate the return air temp.

It sets the evap at just above freezing to drop out the humidity and then re-heats from there.



Be interested to hear about other manual D3's out there.

Hi I'm Brad, I have a 2008 6 speed Manual XS (UK Import). So it has EAS, Nav, RSE, Leather, HK Stereo (not the Logic 7), 7 seats, heated front seats, FBH and no rear A/C.
It also came from the factory with DPF. It's "different".

[maxperformance]

Hi I'm Brad, I have a 2008 6 speed Manual XS (UK Import). So it has EAS, Nav, RSE, Leather, HK Stereo (not the Logic 7), 7 seats, heated front seats, FBH and no rear A/C.
It also came from the factory with DPF. It's "different".

When you think of selling it, think about me first mate.

[Airmech953]

Are you still planning to go ahead with installing the rear air-con?

[maxperformance]

Are you still planning to go ahead with installing the rear air-con?

Still in my plans of build-up but it seems this would need months to gather the parts. I still consider it if in case I could have a full set up of HSE interior to swap over.

[PhilipA]

I was just thinking that if you really lust after a manual, then it would probably be less complex to buy a HSE with rear air and convert it from Auto to manual.

The parts would be easily available from UK as there are lots of manuals there. You would need to research all the bits required, although a specialist could maybe sell you a complete kit.
Regards PhilipA

[veebs]

I’d assume you already have all the manual bits you need in your current car? Just transfer the trim over.

You could even move the auto bits into your current interior, then sell it off again?

[josh.huber]

I just read most of this.. You like your kids more then I do. You can do the rear aircon with a decent air con guy cheaply. Lines up the chassis cab be rubber with basic fittings.. Yes Degas for cab off. You can buy inline liquid solenoids which you can switch instead of the compressor with a basic thermostat. That'll work. Use the LR evap and fans etc so it looks nice and works

[BradC]

You can buy inline liquid solenoids which you can switch instead of the compressor with a basic thermostat. That'll work. Use the LR evap and fans etc so it looks nice and works

The LR evap/fan unit has the liquid line solenoid built in.

[josh.huber]

Excellent, easy