oil press regulator

[Rick Fischer]

Hello all

Oil pressure at 30mph to = 60psi - for me, nup! Best I can do is around 40 when engine cold and 20 something when hot. This is on an overhauled engine with new mains and big ends and all else within limits. Oil is Penrite vintage running in oil and has regulator adjustment wound right in

I am hunting for a new ball spring and plunger. Failing supply might one make and fit shims/slugs into plunger and if so will that bring the pressure up?

Oh! and despite the mostest care on assembly of gaskets etc. he still marks his territory [tonguewink] and cork/rubber compound gaskets on rocker cover weep!

Cheers
Rick F

[5380]

Hello all

Oil pressure at 30mph to = 60psi - for me, nup! Best I can do is around 40 when engine cold and 20 something when hot. This is on an overhauled engine with new mains and big ends and all else within limits. Oil is Penrite vintage running in oil and has regulator adjustment wound right in

I am hunting for a new ball spring and plunger. Failing supply might one make and fit shims/slugs into plunger and if so will that bring the pressure up?

Oh! and despite the mostest care on assembly of gaskets etc. he still marks his territory [tonguewink] and cork/rubber compound gaskets on rocker cover weep!

Cheers
Rick F
.
Rick, don't worry too much about the pressure readings. The running in oil is a 15/40 oil which is a bit thin in a Series 1 engine, so will probably show a lower reading. I have been using the Penrite Classic Light in my 80", but it seems a bit thin in hot weather, so I am changing it to Nulon Street & Track 25/60 at my next change. You could try Penrite Classic Medium as an alternative.
As well check to see that the restrictor jet is in place in the inlet rocker oil feed banjo bolt as well as the (Siamese ) by-pass type oil filter inlet pipe union nipple if it has the early AC bypass oil filter in front of the starter motor. My cork gaskets don't leak. Make sure they are seated correctly and stick them in place with some loctite 518 or similar. Don't crush them by over tightening the cover nuts Make sure that your exhaust rocker cover isn't bowed or bent and that your engine breather is working properly. I would also check the free length specification against your pressure relief valve spring's length. You should find it in the workshop manual. Mike 5380

[1950landy]

Just to add to what Mick said about the cork gaskets, back when I worked in motor trade some 20 to 25 years ago, we always put them in hot water for about 15minuts before using them this will soften the cork. Also make sure you do not over tighten them. I too never have trouble with cork gaskets leaking.

[JDNSW]

I was taught by my father to put them in water overnight!

[gromit]

I was taught to lightly grease them before fitting,
Did this on my Series I & no leaks.

One of my boys, trainee mechanic, slathered silicon RTV all over a cork gasket.
When I passed comment he said "that's what we do at the garage I work at" !

Colin

[Rick Fischer]

thankee all [smilebigeye]

Both restrictors in place but did forget about cork gasket lessons from one of my former lives [bigsad]

Will do the full running in then switch to heavier grade and see what happens.

Cheers

Rick F

[Rick Fischer]

Finally got around to installing new PRV bits, ball spring and slider. New spring is 1/4" longer uncompressed.

So now have 40+psi at 30mph and 175F, idles at 10psi. Whoo Hoo.

There is a contradiction between Op manuals and WS manual. Op manuals states 40psi at 30mph WS manual 55-65 at 30mph.

Handy hint for pulling ball. Tek screw driver with magnetic holder will lift the ball, and length just right to extract it.

Cheers
Rick F

[5380]

Finally got around to installing new PRV bits, ball spring and slider. New spring is 1/4" longer uncompressed.

So now have 40+psi at 30mph and 175F, idles at 10psi. Whoo Hoo.

There is a contradiction between Op manuals and WS manual. Op manuals states 40psi at 30mph WS manual 55-65 at 30mph.

Handy hint for pulling ball. Tek screw driver with magnetic holder will lift the ball, and length just right to extract it.

Cheers
Rick F

Good one Rick!
Whoo hoo indeed! Where did you source the parts from? There are a lot of contradictions in Rover's service literature, it depends, as you mention, on which version you read. Run it around for a bit with the lighter running in oil, but don't work it too hard, then change the oil to a good quality 20/50 or 25/60. I use Nulon Steet & Track 25/60. Thin modern oils don't generate much pressure at low rpm, especially when hot, with the 1930's designed Rover gear type oil pump. Also, don't set your idle speed too low as the camshaft lobes and followers depend on oil splash for lubrication. Have fun!
5380 Mike.

[Rick Fischer]

Mike

Obtained parts from Paxton at Heritage Series Parts, on Sunny Coast. Ph 0427 837 422 website www.heritageseriesparts.com

He be still be running chassis on blocks :0) Run him sorta once a month with every thing engaged - 4WD, winch and PTO to bring everything up to temp...................and have a few post run leaks that need to be addressed :0(

Cheers
RF



Good one Rick!
Whoo hoo indeed! Where did you source the parts from? There are a lot of contradictions in Rover's service literature, it depends, as you mention, on which version you read. Run it around for a bit with the lighter running in oil, but don't work it too hard, then change the oil to a good quality 20/50 or 25/60. I use Nulon Steet & Track 25/60. Thin modern oils don't generate much pressure at low rpm, especially when hot, with the 1930's designed Rover gear type oil pump. Also, don't set your idle speed too low as the camshaft lobes and followers depend on oil splash for lubrication. Have fun!
5380 Mike.

[5380]

Mike

Obtained parts from Paxton at Heritage Series Parts, on Sunny Coast. Ph 0427 837 422 website www.heritageseriesparts.com (http://www.heritageseriesparts.com)

He be still be running chassis on blocks :0) Run him sorta once a month with every thing engaged - 4WD, winch and PTO to bring everything up to temp...................and have a few post run leaks that need to be addressed :0(

Cheers
RF


Thanks Rick,
Good idea running it on blocks to sort out any potential leaks etc. Perservere with the leak chasing, once everything is as it should be, they don' leak much at all.
Except oil runs out of the gearbox input shaft if you park them nose downhill, or overfill the gearbox. My engine has rust on it because it does not leak oil! Cheers. 5380

[1950landy]

Thanks Rick,
Good idea running it on blocks to sort out any potential leaks etc. Perservere with the leak chasing, once everything is as it should be, they don' leak much at all.
Except oil runs out of the gearbox input shaft if you park them nose downhill, or overfill the gearbox. My engine has rust on it because it does not leak oil! Cheers. 5380

Bit of info from my Workshop Manual for early gearbox /Transfer oil levels. read bottom paragraph, sorry it is upside down. 183555 183557 I found that my 1950 80" had never been done, after doing them greatly reduced oil leaks.

[5380]

Bit of info from my Workshop Manual for early gearbox /Transfer oil levels. read bottom paragraph, sorry it is upside down. 183555 183557 I found that my 1950 80" had never been done, after doing them greatly reduced oil leaks.


Good pick up! I'd say that it never went back to the dealer, or they missed it!
Mike.