Electric Brake Controller Install

[Phil_K]

A few weeks ago I was looking for solutions for a brake controller for my new D250 90 series Defender. I was initially told by some 4WD places and a couple of auto electricians they weren't sure and were quoting around $1,000 to work something out.

I did some looking around the internet and someone on the forum here pointed me in the direction of the New Land Rover Defenders group on Facebook. It had some difficult finding the details, so I thought I'd share here what I did and it only cost around $412 in parts from Repco and a Saturday afternoon. Anyone with some DIY car experience can do this.

Parts:
RedArc TowPro Elite V3
RedArc TPH-006 (harness for Land Rovers)
RedArc TPSI-010 (Rubber switch insert)

Some of the instructions (and YouTube clips) say to just undo the bottom panel near the peddles reach up in side on right hand side where you can find the plug and plug in the harness. This can be done, but if it's a tight fit (which it was for mine), this can result in some knuckle scraping in a blood loss (you will see some evidence of that on one of the photos). This was pretty easy to do, but what I found most difficult was to find a suitable place to mount, so I actually took of the whole front panel. This was pretty easy to do:
1. Unscrew star bolts on side of dash facing door, remove this cover, you'll see some small screws for the other parts of the front panel (unscrew these)
2. Remove small dash bar next to steering wheel (this unclips once side screw removed), this will exposure other screws for main front panels
3. Partially unclip (gently pull out) other dash bar that runs the length of front from passenger side of steering wheel to passenger door (only need pull out enough to expose screws for front panel).
4. Drop the panel down and you have more access to plugin the harness and fix the unit (unclip various plugs), and push out the section where you are going to install the controller (bottom right).
5. Install unit, plug, in harness, connect to controller dial, plug in the rest of the plugs, and screw back up.

I've attached some photos I took along the way, hopefully the make sense.

I tried it out on the weekend on and off road, both proportional and manual settings worked as they were supposed to.

[DiscoMick]

Looks good.
I believe the rules say brake controllers are supposed to be installed on the driver's side so it can easily be operated by the driver.
However our Tekonsha is different to the Redarc in that it has a display showing the amount of pressure the brakes are making, and I wanted to see that, but it would have been difficult to see while driving if mounted next to the steering column. So ours is mounted on the passenger side to see at a glance.
Unlike the Redarc, the Tekonsha does not need adjusting on the move as it just shows a scale of 0-5 for the pressure.
If towing, I recommend setting the controller so it brakes the trailer harder than the vehicle. This means if there is any sway a tap on the brakes can pull the trailer in behind the vehicle. You don't want the trailer to push the vehicle.

[loanrangie]

Looks good.
I believe the rules say brake controllers are supposed to be installed on the driver's side so it can easily be operated by the driver.
However our Tekonsha is different to the Redarc in that it has a display showing the amount of pressure the brakes are making, and I wanted to see that, but it would have been difficult to see while driving if mounted next to the steering column. So ours is mounted on the passenger side to see at a glance.
Unlike the Redarc, the Tekonsha does not need adjusting on the move as it just shows a scale of 0-5 for the pressure.
If towing, I recommend setting the controller so it brakes the trailer harder than the vehicle. This means if there is any sway a tap on the brakes can pull the trailer in behind the vehicle. You don't want the trailer to push the vehicle.

The Redarc has a remote dial so can be fitted anywhere in the vehicle.

[DiscoMick]

Yes, but I'm told the Redarc control unit is supposed to be installed within reach of the driver, so it can be adjusted on the move, which makes sense with the Redarc unit.
However it is unnecessary with the Tekonsha unit as it displays a preset scale of brake pressure as the brake pedal is pushed harder.
The important thing is to be able to see the readout on the front, which is set to a 0-5 scale on ours, to confirm the brakes are working.
So the Redarc and Tekonsha units work differently.

The Redarc has a remote dial so can be fitted anywhere in the vehicle.

[loanrangie]

Yes, but I'm told the Redarc control unit is supposed to be installed within reach of the driver, so it can be adjusted on the move, which makes sense with the Redarc unit.
However it is unnecessary with the Tekonsha unit as it displays a preset scale of brake pressure as the brake pedal is pushed harder.
The important thing is to be able to see the readout on the front, which is set to a 0-5 scale on ours, to confirm the brakes are working.
So the Redarc and Tekonsha units work differently.

Thats why the dial is remote so can you mount the base anywhere and fit the dial in reach, they even sell an extension cable that is 5m long.

[Tombie]

Yes, but I'm told the Redarc control unit is supposed to be installed within reach of the driver, so it can be adjusted on the move, which makes sense with the Redarc unit.
However it is unnecessary with the Tekonsha unit as it displays a preset scale of brake pressure as the brake pedal is pushed harder.
The important thing is to be able to see the readout on the front, which is set to a 0-5 scale on ours, to confirm the brakes are working.
So the Redarc and Tekonsha units work differently.

You’ve misinterpreted that completely.

Even the Tekonsha should be within reach of the driver.

Both for emergency application, and for fine adjustment that may be necessary as load changes (for whatever reason)

The Redarc is also inertial sensing and both units behave similarly.

[loanrangie]

You’ve misinterpreted that completely.

Even the Tekonsha should be within reach of the driver.

Both for emergency application, and for fine adjustment that may be necessary as load changes (for whatever reason)

The Redarc is also inertial sensing and both units behave similarly.


And i meant to add that the Redarc has no controls on the unit so the dial is used for all adjustments.

[DiscoMick]

I can still reach the Tekonsha where it is mounted, but if it was mounted next to the steering wheel I wouldn't be able to see the display showing how much brake pressure is being applied progressively as I push the brake pedal, so it would be useless.
I have had the Redarc unit in the past and agree it needs to be mounted in easy reach so the dial can be turned to increase or decrease braking pressure, but there is no display to monitor, as on the Tekonsha.
The Tekonsha is not adjusted by hand once the scale is initially set. The pressure is adjusted by altering how hard the brake pedal is pushed.
So they work differently.

[Tombie]

No it’s not… there is NO variable output from the brake pedal at all. So how hard you push has NO variable input to the unit.

You are mistaken.

[shack]

I think it was mentioned earlier... But...

Just about all electronic brake controllers operate on 1 basis.

It is the selected power setting on the unit coupled with the inertia of the braking action.

As Tombie points out, it is nothing to do with the brake pedal pressure being sensed, but it might seem like it as the harder you brake, the higher the reading will be on the controller as it applies more power to the electric brakes on the trailer.

This is only because of the sensed braking inertia felt by the controller, just like if you slammed on the brakes, your whole body would get thrusted forward, the brake controller works just the same.

[Tombie]

Only thing I can think of that keeps Mick saying what he is - the OLD redarc non proportional units (eg 20 years ago) were a simple unit.

Long gone the way of the dinosaurs and all units since are proportional / inertial.

[Dorian]

Hi All,
Just for my interest.
I assume the inertial sensor is inside the control unit.
Soooo , is the mounting orientation of the control unit important or do they use some digital magic to sort that out ?

And do they plug into the CAN bus now days, or do they just slave off the brake light ?

Cheers Glen.

[BradC]

What I can't figure out is why they didn't adapt the old "sliding hitch" from the hydraulic over-rider brakes and use that to actuate the electric brakes. Fully proportional and no "fudging" guesswork. These electric brake controllers seem to be getting progressively "smarter" to solve a control system problem that was solved 50 years ago.

[Tombie]

What I can't figure out is why they didn't adapt the old "sliding hitch" from the hydraulic over-rider brakes and use that to actuate the electric brakes. Fully proportional and no "fudging" guesswork. These electric brake controllers seem to be getting progressively "smarter" to solve a control system problem that was solved 50 years ago.

Because nobody wants the shunting sensation of the sliding hitch - especialliy downhill, offroad, in slipery conditions [biggrin]

[shack]

What I can't figure out is why they didn't adapt the old "sliding hitch" from the hydraulic over-rider brakes and use that to actuate the electric brakes. Fully proportional and no "fudging" guesswork. These electric brake controllers seem to be getting progressively "smarter" to solve a control system problem that was solved 50 years ago.I hate overrun brakes on any trailer.. Hate.

They are just horrible how they operate.

[BradC]

I hate overrun brakes on any trailer.. Hate.

They are just horrible how they operate.

Huh. Haven't had that experience, ever. Perhaps it's just harder to get hydraulic overriders set up right.

[shack]

The tiniest amount of wear on the brake shoes requires constant adjustment of the actuator, it drives me nuts.

Electric brakes all the way for me, and you have the override available in the event of a failure on the vehicle, or if you got into a dangerous situation and needed to brake the trailer harder than the car.

[BradC]

The tiniest amount of wear on the brake shoes requires constant adjustment of the actuator, it drives me nuts.

How odd. Ours are self adjusting. I just give them a clean and lube when I re-pack the wheel bearings every couple of years and flush the brake fluid. I think it's on its third set of shoes in just over 200,000k.


Electric brakes all the way for me, and you have the override available in the event of a failure on the vehicle, or if you got into a dangerous situation and needed to brake the trailer harder than the car.

Can't argue with that. Anyway, still didn't get an answer to my original question and obviously not likely to so I'll leave it here.

[shack]

How odd. Ours are self adjusting. I just give them a clean and lube when I re-pack the wheel bearings every couple of years and flush the brake fluid. I think it's on its third set of shoes in just over 200,000k.



Can't argue with that. Anyway, still didn't get an answer to my original question and obviously not likely to so I'll leave it here.Sorry...If the original question was about why they didn't use the overrun slide principle to operate the brakes electronically, I guess the answer is that they effectively did, but moved it to an electronically sensed setup which works much more smoothly and gradually and prevents the nasty bucking around of the trailer as well as the wear of the slide.

That's my take.

[LuckyLes]

Another problem with the old override systems was the flip over lockout when reversing. How many times have drivers forgotten to flip it back again, but the constant shunting was a real PIA.
I rarely check my brake controller other than to make sure it lights up when I first connect the caravan up. I can tell by feel whether it needs to be adjusted or not, and surely most drivers once they have used it a few times should be able to do the same.
The installation instructions tell you what angles are suitable for mounting. With the newer Redarc if I remember correctly, it is not critical but the last Tekonsha that I had it gave the angles that the controller had to remain within.
Surely if fitting these devices as a DIY exercise, you should familiarise yourself with both the fitting instructions from the manufacturer, and any rules regarding their installation and use as required by your state in which the trailer is registered. Anything less is surely laziness and incompetence.
Cheers
LuckyLes

[DiscoMick]

Yes, inertia is involved, which is why the Tekonsha has to be mounted horizontally.
But mine is set so a tap on the brake pedal causes me to feel the caravan brakes come on, and slow the vehicle, even though the Defender is barely slowed. This is good.
I think it was mentioned earlier... But...

Just about all electronic brake controllers operate on 1 basis.

It is the selected power setting on the unit coupled with the inertia of the braking action.

As Tombie points out, it is nothing to do with the brake pedal pressure being sensed, but it might seem like it as the harder you brake, the higher the reading will be on the controller as it applies more power to the electric brakes on the trailer.

This is only because of the sensed braking inertia felt by the controller, just like if you slammed on the brakes, your whole body would get thrusted forward, the brake controller works just the same.

[Tombie]

They will both do this if set to bias the trailer first.

[admiralranga]

Because nobody wants the shunting sensation of the sliding hitch - especialliy downhill, offroad, in slipery conditions [biggrin]

Totally understandable, in theory a load sensor could replace the sliding hitch and be used to control the brake pressure.