4.0L V6 D3 - Where is the front timing chain tensioner?

[nivekau]

Does anyone know where the the front timing chain tensioner is located on the Disco 3 4.0L V6?
here's a photo of the part in question181246

[Graeme]

Do you realise that there are 2 tensioners, 1 for each chain? They push on the side of the chain, with one pointing down from above and the other pushing up from below.

[nivekau]

Do you realise that there are 2 tensioners, 1 for each chain? They push on the side of the chain, with one pointing down from above and the other pushing up from below.

Graeme, yes I do. I've already changed the one on the rear chain. Do you know where the tensioner for the front chain is located?

[Graeme]

Sorry, I only have the parts catalogue which only shows the chain and tensioner parts, not any housings.
The tensioners should be in the same relative position on both chains, removing slack on the after-crankshaft side of each chain.

[TheDonsWay]

181276

[Graeme]

That's the guide against which the tensioner presses. I couldn't spot the tensioner itself in that diagram although it could be shown where it is on the housing in the cut-off bottom section.
Actually, isn't that the balance shaft and chain rather than a camshaft chain?
Edit: Wrong again - that's the jackshaft.

[Graeme]

Here's an extract from the WSM showing the heads and timing chains which are driven off the jackshaft.
#27 on the head components diagram appears to be near the front of the left head (looking from behind the engine) on the inlet valve side.

Sorry, still trying to get the diagrams able to be opened. There seems to be a problem reading this file from here.

[TheDonsWay]

181279181280181281
These are also from the workshop manual. Hopefully a combination between Graemes and these may help.

[Graeme]

I can't open your files either but can save the links.

[TheDonsWay]

Can they be opened if saved? I actually bought a digital copy of the manual. It was under $13 on ebay.
EDIT: I can open the files once saved.

[nivekau]

Thanks for all the responses!
I've found it - it's inside the engine V at the front left hand side. It looks like I will be able to get to it if I remove the air supply from the front of the intake manifold. Hoping to get to it tomorrow and that the rattle will go away. I've already got a new front timing chain kit in case replacing the tensioner doesn't fix it. That of course would be a much bigger job!

[Graeme]

EDIT: I can open the files once saved.I found that too.

[nivekau]

I can almost get it out but it fouls on the underside of the intake manifold before it is completely unscrewed. It's wobbling a bit so obviously very close to coming out (photo below is rotated by 90 degrees!).

181420

I remembered I had bought a worshop manual years ago on a DVD. It actually has a section on replacing this hydraulic timing chain tensioner, unfortunately the procedure involves removing the intake manifold, which is no small job!

As I don't have all the requisite seals/gaskets etc to refit the intake manifold, I was thinking of filing a little notch in the underside of the manifold to provide clearance to get the tensioner out without removing the manifold. Does anyone know how think these cast aluminium intake manifolds are likely to be?

[Graeme]

I'd be very inclined to try removing a little material at a time, screwing the tensioner back in each time to keep filings out. It looks as though not much metal would have to be removed. You might also consider grinding a small flat on the tensioner to help with clearance.

[PhilipA]

The little picture of its location states to remove the intake manifold, or rather gives a reference to r?r the intake manifold, so I think from that you will have to do it.
Regards PhilipA

[DiscoJeffster]

I think looking at the photo and the likely length of the tensioner, you haven’t much chance of grinding your way out of it. Even if you grind the manifold and old tensioner, are you going to do that to the new one? You’re fooked. Manifold it is.

[nivekau]

Unfortunately those who have said the intake manidold has to come off are right. It felt like the tensioner was close to coming out when it fouled on the manifold, but when I look at the new one it's clear that there is still about another 10mm of thread to go, so there's no way that's going to come out with the manifold in place; a mm or two of filing the manifold and/or the tensioner will not make enough difference.

The workshop manual says I need a special "Fuel spring lock decoupling tool" to disconnect the fuel line and on "Early vehicles only: Remove 4 bolts and release the fuel rail and injectors." Unfortunately it doesn't specify the date range efor an "early vehicle" [bighmmm]

Given that I only need to raise the front of the intake manifold by a few CM to replace the tensioner I'm wondering if I can get away without disconnecting the fuel line. I'll have to see where it is and whether there is any flexibilty. This would (a) obviate the need for the special tool, and (b) avoid the inevitable release of petrol into the work area.

Re the gasket/seals, the one on the throttle body which it says should be replaced, is a silicone bead and still in prefect condition. There's no need to replace it, so if the others are the same I may be able to get away without replacing them (i'm assuming that they are not readily available in Australia at a reasonable price).

If this were a Ford Ranger or whatever vehicles these engines are used on the US, the tensioner is really easily accessible, but not on a Landrover [bawl]