Restricted Performance Event

[Arapiles]

I've had the D4 for about 4 years now. I went for a drive last weekend (in torrential rain, surprise, surprise), speeds from 60kmh to 100kmh and all was fine until the car started to feel like it was straining in an 80km zone and I got a warning, "Restricted Performance Event". I pulled over, turned the car off and when I turned it back on all was fine, and there's been nothing since.

It is having a service tomorrow (transmission oil being replaced) so I'll ask them to see if they can pick up any fault codes.

So ... is this something random or the harbinger of expensive problems to come?

[DieselLSE]

Wait for the codes. It could be anything from a faulty battery or earth cable to, well, anything. If you start worrying now about EGR's, split manifolds, turbos, position sensors etc., you'll drive yourself mad by nightfall!
Mind you, the first thing that pops into my mind is to clean out the throttle control module. Probably because it's been two years since I did mine and I've been planning to check it.

[Arapiles]

Yes, I'll see what the service guys pick up.

[Arapiles]

Ritters tested the car for various things - the codes showed nothing. They did a smoke test which showed no holes or leaks, so no indication what the problem was.

No further problems until today when I was heading up the Western Highway on an 800km round trip and it did it again, but this time it persisted after I turned off the ignition. So I took the car gingerly 100ks back home and switched to my other car. I'll get the D4 towed to Ritters on Monday. It's a pity it's doing this because it had been a great vehicle up to now. My other car is a CR-V diesel and the difference in NVH and ride comfort was stark - I could barely hear the radio in the CR-V, vs the clarity and quality of the 17 speakers in the D4 and to be honest the CR-Vs normal responsiveness (which is pretty good by most standards) feels like the D4 when it's having a RPE ....

[DiscoJeffster]

I assume you don’t have a fault code reader yourself to check what it is when it’s in restricted performance??

[BMKal]

Mine used to do the same, usually after giving it a bootfull to get past a pesky Toyota or something. Always re-set after turning off / on again. Can't remember the error code I was reading on the Gap tool, but something to do with MAP sensor. Anyhow, I had the MAP sensor checked (cleaning it had no effect) and it was found to be faulty. Since replacement, I've had no more "Restricted Performance" issues - touch wood.

The best thing I can recommend to anyone with one of these vehicles is to buy and carry a Gap IID Tool (Bluetooth version) and use it regularly. Mine has saved me a lot of dollars, especially after I had a transmission issue once that was looking like a trip on the back of a truck to Perth. Running a re-calibration program via the IID tool fixed the problem and saved me potentially a lot more than I had paid for the tool.

[Arapiles]

I assume you don’t have a fault code reader yourself to check what it is when it’s in restricted performance??

No, I don't - but for how long are the fault codes readable? Ritter's diagnostic equipment couldn't find an explanation for the event, ie there was no fault that they could find.

[Arapiles]

Mine used to do the same, usually after giving it a bootfull to get past a pesky Toyota or something. Always re-set after turning off / on again. Can't remember the error code I was reading on the Gap tool, but something to do with MAP sensor. Anyhow, I had the MAP sensor checked (cleaning it had no effect) and it was found to be faulty. Since replacement, I've had no more "Restricted Performance" issues - touch wood.

The best thing I can recommend to anyone with one of these vehicles is to buy and carry a Gap IID Tool (Bluetooth version) and use it regularly. Mine has saved me a lot of dollars, especially after I had a transmission issue once that was looking like a trip on the back of a truck to Perth. Running a re-calibration program via the IID tool fixed the problem and saved me potentially a lot more than I had paid for the tool.

I suspect that there's water somewhere in the electronics.

[Arapiles]

I presume it's the IIDTool BT G3 (https://www.gap-diagnostic.com/shop/iidtool-bt/) that people are buying and not the IIDTool Pro G3 (https://www.gap-diagnostic.com/shop/iidtool-pro/)?

[DiscoJeffster]

I presume it's the IIDTool BT G3 (https://www.gap-diagnostic.com/shop/iidtool-bt/) that people are buying and not the IIDTool Pro G3 (https://www.gap-diagnostic.com/shop/iidtool-pro/)?

You don’t need a pro, no. BT is the go

[Graeme]

When you get the GAP tool be sure to set it to show all codes. I can't remember which box isn't ticked that needs to be but if not ticked then it won't show some faults (pending?).

When a fault occurs, connect the tool and read the codes before switching off the engine in case it's a fault that clears on restart.

Even if the codes don't mean enough to you, there are lots of people on AULRO who can point you in the right direction.

[Arapiles]

So, Ritters did check for a manifold break and it wasn't that (good news), but they've established that the intercooler is stuffed (bad news).

[Arapiles]

You can see where the outer edges have blown out - they're unsupported on that outer layer and the air pressure pushed them out.

Might be better to have some kind of cross-strapping or external band.



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