A/C Gremlins after Flat Battery

[Ralph1Malph]

Hi All,
I'm likely going to have to bite the bullet and have it looked at by someone in the business, however I thought I'd ask first, in case I've missed something obvious.

Through a poor decision[bighmmm], I left my caravan fridge connected overnight and my cranking battery drained flat - very flat, fast drain! 8.5V unladen!

Anywhoo, I believe I've saved the battery (mostly) but had a few gremlins to iron out. Most were straightforward resets or error clearance with my GAP tool.

However, the A/C now won't work. I'm not sure though if it's a coincidence, or related to the flat battery. There were a couple of environment control errors, blend motors I recall, but I've cleared them and they've not returned.

I've done the most rudimentary of physical checks and the 'clutch' seems to be working as the engine labours when it is engaged, however the low pressure pipe doesn't start to cool.

Are there any other tricks or checks I can do before I take it to a shop?
I didn't disconnect when recharging (I know, but I was keen to recharge). Is there any point doing a hard reset?

Cheers
Ralph

[Narangga]

Haven't encountered that although I have not managed to do what you have described with the battery.

I have an issue where sometimes in traffic when I stop in traffic the compressor cuts out and takes some time to decide to operate again (indie thinks it is probably a fan issue). The kick it in to action (whilst driving as it doesn't seem to work at idle) I put it on ECON for four or five seconds and then take it off ECON. After four seconds the compressor starts its its stuff again. As there is no cost to it it would be worth a try for you I think (says he hoping it helps...).

[DiscoJeffster]

Haven't encountered that although I have not managed to do what you have described with the battery.

I have an issue where sometimes in traffic when I stop in traffic the compressor cuts out and takes some time to decide to operate again (indie thinks it is probably a fan issue). The kick it in to action (whilst driving as it doesn't seem to work at idle) I put it on ECON for four or five seconds and then take it off ECON. After four seconds the compressor starts its its stuff again. As there is no cost to it it would be worth a try for you I think (says he hoping it helps...).

I do the same to get mine working. I assumed it was the variable valve sticking and turning it on and off gets it working [emoji2369]

[Tombie]

I didn't disconnect when recharging (I know, but I was keen to recharge).
Cheers
Ralph

Thats no point of concern - no need to disconnect with modern chargers at all...

[drivesafe]

Hi Ralph and just a suggestion but it might pay you to have your cranking battery load tested.

While your battery may be charging OK and holding a charge, it may have been damaged and is down on actual total capacity.

This can cause strange problems in some Land Rover models, L322 Range Rovers are Renown for having unrelated problems when the cranking battery is not up to scratch.

Again, just a possible cause.

[Narangga]

I do the same to get mine working. I assumed it was the variable valve sticking and turning it on and off gets it working [emoji2369]

Indie and I decided the fan was the most likely culprit due to its age but he also mentioned that as a possibility. :spudnikwhat:

[Ralph1Malph]

Yes, I will do that. Initially it was not holding load well on crank, but I'll have a look again now it's run a bit.
Hi Ralph and just a suggestion but it might pay you to have your cranking battery load tested.

While your battery may be charging OK and holding a charge, it may have been damaged and is down on actual total capacity.

This can cause strange problems in some Land Rover models, L322 Range Rovers are Renown for having unrelated problems when the cranking battery is not up to scratch.

Again, just a possible cause.

[RANDLOVER]

............. overnight and my cranking battery drained flat .........

I left the key in mine turned on for almost 24hrs, don't know how low the voltage got as I put my charger straight on it for 10 hrs at 6 Amps, whereupon it clicked out after doing "bulk" and "absorption" charging, and the D3 started with no hesitation. So far I haven't noticed any "gremlins" except the trip, fuel consumption, range, etc., display zeroed, although my GPS retained it's setting whereas it usually plays up when my mechanic disconnects the battery when working on the car, so maybe the voltage didn't get too low.


...........just a suggestion but it might pay you to have your cranking battery load tested..


I think I'll get my mechanic to load test it when I'm there next as I do think draining a battery soon kills them, I had that happen a couple of times in my D2.

[QUOTE=Tombie;3171327]That's no point of concern - no need to disconnect with modern chargers at all...

I was actually thinking of piggy backing my old 6A iron charger with my newer 6A electronic charger to speed things up, but thought they might interfere with each other, then thought that 6Amps for 10 hours is 60 Ah, so 120A for 30 mins, 240A for 15 mins, and so on, meaning I'd have plenty for cranking a few seconds which proved to be correct.

[SeanC]

When you say the AC doesn’t work. Is it blowing air but not cooling or is it not blowing air at all? I recently had an issue with my AC in my D3 where it intermittently wouldn’t blow air. Replacing relay 16 fixed the issue. A quick swap with another 40amp relay will tell.