A/C Compressor & Condenser Change Pics & Notes

[haydent]

(More Photos and Notes Coming Soon)

Car is 2010 L320 TDV8, sharing photos and tips.

Most of my posts and lots more info is in this thread: D4 A/C Compressor issue (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/268239-d4-c-compressor-issue.html)

Initial symptoms where slow to make cold sometimes, then one day no more cold, only hot instead, found pulley break away system broken due to intermittently locking up pump.
Within several weeks of no cold, all gas has leaked out at the pump, leaving green dye all over its front.

Parts ordered: (coming soon)

I followed the workshop manuals available online here 'Range Rover Sport2005-2009.pdf' and 'Workshop manual Range Rover Sport 2013 Sec.5 Body.pdf' please use them as your primary guide, and my photos/notes supplement.

First step replace the condenser & drier/filter:

Starting point:
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Front grill:
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Headlights: (took opportunity to install LED cornering bulbs)
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Tow point cover:
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Wheels:
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Both Wheel Arch Trims:
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Disconnect 4 plugs:
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Disconnect 2x headlight washer lines:
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Once upper and lower screw/bolts are removed bumper cover comes off:
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Hood Latch Panel:
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Hidden location of lower condenser mount bolts, behind rubber flap:
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Location of duct mount bolts that must be removed to allow duct to move forward to allow condenser mount tabs past:
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How I accessed those bolts:
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Disconnect just left side of auxillary radiator and swing out the way, no coolant is lost.
Condenser can come out, left edge first, pulling duct out of way of lower mount tabs:

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Condenser/Drier out:
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New Condenser/Drier installed with new orings:
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[haydent]

Next step, compressor removal:

Drain a few litres out of the radiator:
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Remove upper cover, intercooler pipes and fan:
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You must disconnect some upper radiator pipes to do this:
Also compressor marked with arrow:
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Another view of compressor through wheel arch:
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Removal of belt:
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Removal of turbo heat shield and mount, gives access for hand around rear of strut:
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Disconnect and relocate ac lines, replace orings.
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Removal of turbo supply joiner:
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Disconnect and move back solid turbo supply pipe, rotating helps:
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This was a hard bit, remove rear bolt, I used a ratchet strap to hold metal turbo output pipe a bit further away from pump to give better access, 1/4" ratchet with knuckle
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Releasing the turbo supply pipe from the lower fan shroud was tricky, I ended up pulling them both out
This is to make room for the pump to get past when removing through hood.
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Now you can take out the 2 front bolts on the pump and the pump itself:
(shown with pulley removed, this should not be necessary)
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The amount of oil I drained out of the pump:
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Sad to see metal flecks:
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I decided to open up the drier to see what it was like inside:
To my pleasant surprise I found the desiccant is not that big, and the flow does not go through it, but more importantly there isa screen filter that all the flow goes through:
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It was intact with quite small holes, it just slides out through the bottom of the tube, so it could be slid out to inspect without cutting the tube.
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All the flow from the condenser flows through the drier (as tested with air compressor), the flow goes into the drier tube first, and then out through the filter, so there as plenty of space in the tube cavity for junk/debris build up.

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One would expect no significant metal pieces would make it through the condenser and drier screen, so this made me more confident in just only replacing them, rather than the whole ac system, evaporator included as recommended by denso/lr , but this would have been too much work (including removing the complete interior) without trying just replacing these parts first.

I was also not able to flush the parts not changed, due to the TX valve being under the dash, though some say it can be flushed (slowly) past, if I was going to try this I would check with my AC tech if he would be ok pulling a vac on the system for longer and getting any solvent left behind, I was just afraid of solvent getting into the pump on trip into town.

I did put the air pump on the open system pipe in normal flow direction to check TX valve wasnt blocked and what the flow rate would be like if i tried to flush past.

How long it will last only time will tell, fingers crossed, its currently re-gassed and making cold again.

[haydent]

Cant edit my original post, so heres the parts list, please confirm what part numbers you need, I ordered from lrparts.net , keep in mind its cheaper to split your parts into separate orders if you can get each one under $1000, as then you dont have to pay import duty, gst and customs fees.

Denso 7SEU17C Compressor LR014536
Condenser with dryer LR018405
O-rings JUU500020 x2 , JUU500010, JUU500040

(If I had my time again id look into getting a cheap used or new 7SEU17C body that fits another common car and swap the differing parts over from my dead pump)

[haydent]

Here is a screenshot of my ac pressure from car off, to start car with ac on full.


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[Discoproc1]

Interested to hear if this is still working? Was it a compressor imploding that caused this issue to start with? Cheers

[scarry]

Interested to hear if this is still working? Was it a compressor imploding that caused this issue to start with? Cheers

The pressures on the graph are way too high,so something else is definitely not right.

[haydent]

Interested to hear if this is still working? Was it a compressor imploding that caused this issue to start with? Cheers

still working, the compressor would intermittently jam, snapping the sacrificial pulley connection so the pulley just spun free


The pressures on the graph are way too high,so something else is definitely not right.

how do you know that ? we've been considering getting the gas weighed and topped up just to check in on it, pretty sure they check the pressures then.

i can do another test with the gap tool again

[scarry]

still working, the compressor would intermittently jam, snapping the sacrificial pulley connection so the pulley just spun free



how do you know that ? we've been considering getting the gas weighed and topped up just to check in on it, pretty sure they check the pressures then.

i can do another test with the gap tool again

Looking at the graph,pressures anywhere near 3000KPA,are not normal,looks like it could be cycling on the safety switch?

Maybe this only happens on start up,but still not good.

[haydent]

Looking at the graph,pressures anywhere near 3000KPA,are not normal,looks like it could be cycling on the safety switch?

Maybe this only happens on start up,but still not good.

Hi, I was sure this had been brought up before, it was in the other thread i commented in, D4 A/C Compressor issue (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/268239-d4-c-compressor-issue-post3178713.html#post3178713) i did look into it with the tech and its only on once captured on start

Also i just found this when googling


High side pressure on a running R134a system can be over 400 PSI, usually it's between 250-300 PSI (Low side will be around 30 PSI). On a stopped system pressures will equalize at a static pressure which can be checked on the temperature/pressure curves (or read your manifold gauges).
Normally there's a pressure relief valve on the compressor housing (Sanden compressors) or just downstream on the high side pipework. This will be set for around 500 PSI. Thus, the manufacturers expect the housing to be good to 500 PSI burst pressure. I would suggest limiting the output pressure to no more than 300 PSI for any length of time, if you expect any amount of service life out of the compressor. At least the Sanden compressors are susceptible to piston seizures if run continuously at high discharge pressures.
Keep in mind that auto AC compressors are cooled by the returning refrigerant vapor into the suction side. A properly working auto AC system will be cold right up to the compressor's suction port. They are also lubricated by oil mist carried along in the refrigerant stream, unless you've got a very old York compressor of the sort that looks like a lawnmower engine.