Discovery 3 2.7 A/C compressor swap.

[shack]

This is an EXTREMELY short write up on how I changed the compressor on our car today.

I won't cover off the drier or how to flush or regas, really needs to go to a Pro for that,
The system needs to have been evacuated before beginning as well, and you need to be competent on the tools.

I have a hoist and all the tools... Which obviously helps, I personally would not attempt without a hoist.

Extra things you may not have but will need are:

Fan spanner.
Remote hose clamp pliers.
Extension bars and Universal's for 1/2 inch drive and 1/4 inch drive.
Enough patience to fill a gravity well.
1.
Pull off engine cover, remove upper fan shroud and intake duct.
2.
Remove engine fan, fan belt and lower fan shroud, some hose clips underneath the shroud will need to be released, the lower intake duct will also need to have a screw removed before the lower shroud can come out.
3.
Car up on hoist, remove passenger side (AU) front air strut line from the valve block under the drivers side wheel arch, (usually a green line) part of the inner guard liner will need to be unclipped for this, let air bleed out.
Remove passenger plastic corner cover that covers the bottom intercooler hose.
4.
Remove passenger side front wheel, remove guard liner, air strut bag should now be empty.
5.
Remove any heat shields in the wheel arch you can.
6.
Remove upper control arm bolts, you'll enjoy that.
ABS and brake wear sensor lines can also be unclipped as well, the sway bar bolt can now be removed.
7.
Remove small coolant bleed line from thermostat and let coolant drain... It'll take a while but it's the "cleanest method".
Once drained, remove the rubber hose from the 35ish mm coolant line that runs from near the harmonic balancer back outside the compressor to the coolant fitting behind compressor.
8.
Undo the bolt that holds the lower intake duct into the bracket next to the power steering pump.
Remove the funny shaped rubber/silicone intercooler pipe between steel pipe that runs back to turbo and the intercooler.
9.
Undo the 2 10mm nuts holding the steel pipe that goes between the turbo outlet and the intercooler, push up out of the way.
10.
Remove the intake duct from the turbo charger, now the fun begins, the intake duct needs to be removed by pulling it forward towards radiator, then bent around towards the airbox, this is really difficult but can be done.
11.
Undo the bolt that holds the coolant pipe that runs to back behind compressor, remove the rubber elbow that goes onto the plastic coolant fitting behind compressor, you should now be able to remove the coolant pipe itself pulling it forwards.
12.
Remove the 2 refrigerant lines from the compressor, pull them forward and seal them to stop dust ingress.
13.
Remove the plug at the back of the compressor that goes to the proportioning valve.
The 3 bolts holding the compressor on can now be removed, and the compressor can also be removed forwards.
14.
The 2 bolts holding the coolant fitting on behind the compressor can now be removed and the fitting can also be removed, replace it with a new genuine one.

Refit is the opposite.

Enjoy.

[shanegtr]

It all sounds so simple when you write it out like that[biggrin] Heres my video guide as well for those interested in the subject

https://youtu.be/BRWti8nwoAA

[Tins]

This is an EXTREMELY short write up on how I changed the compressor on our car today.

I won't cover off the drier or how to flush or regas, really needs to go to a Pro for that,
The system needs to have been evacuated before beginning as well, and you need to be competent on the tools.

I have a hoist and all the tools... Which obviously helps, I personally would not attempt without a hoist.

Extra things you may not have but will need are:

Fan spanner.
Remote hose clamp pliers.
Extension bars and Universal's for 1/2 inch drive and 1/4 inch drive.
Enough patience to fill a gravity well.
1.
Pull off engine cover, remove upper fan shroud and intake duct.
2.
Remove engine fan, fan belt and lower fan shroud, some hose clips underneath the shroud will need to be released, the lower intake duct will also need to have a screw removed before the lower shroud can come out.
3.
Car up on hoist, remove passenger side (AU) front air strut line from the valve block under the drivers side wheel arch, (usually a green line) part of the inner guard liner will need to be unclipped for this, let air bleed out.
Remove passenger plastic corner cover that covers the bottom intercooler hose.
4.
Remove passenger side front wheel, remove guard liner, air strut bag should now be empty.
5.
Remove any heat shields in the wheel arch you can.
6.
Remove upper control arm bolts, you'll enjoy that.
ABS and brake wear sensor lines can also be unclipped as well, the sway bar bolt can now be removed.
7.
Remove small coolant bleed line from thermostat and let coolant drain... It'll take a while but it's the "cleanest method".
Once drained, remove the rubber hose from the 35ish mm coolant line that runs from near the harmonic balancer back outside the compressor to the coolant fitting behind compressor.
8.
Undo the bolt that holds the lower intake duct into the bracket next to the power steering pump.
Remove the funny shaped rubber/silicone intercooler pipe between steel pipe that runs back to turbo and the intercooler.
9.
Undo the 2 10mm nuts holding the steel pipe that goes between the turbo outlet and the intercooler, push up out of the way.
10.
Remove the intake duct from the turbo charger, now the fun begins, the intake duct needs to be removed by pulling it forward towards radiator, then bent around towards the airbox, this is really difficult but can be done.
11.
Undo the bolt that holds the coolant pipe that runs to back behind compressor, remove the rubber elbow that goes onto the plastic coolant fitting behind compressor, you should now be able to remove the coolant pipe itself pulling it forwards.
12.
Remove the 2 refrigerant lines from the compressor, pull them forward and seal them to stop dust ingress.
13.
Remove the plug at the back of the compressor that goes to the proportioning valve.
The 3 bolts holding the compressor on can now be removed, and the compressor can also be removed forwards.
14.
The 2 bolts holding the coolant fitting on behind the compressor can now be removed and the fitting can also be removed, replace it with a new genuine one.

Refit is the opposite.

Enjoy.

Did you write for Haynes in a previous life?

[shack]

Did you write for Haynes in a previous life?No, I'm guessing there's a joke in there somewhere!!

[ledgewalker]

I fear my compressor is on the way out, and it’s just too complex a job for me.

Realistically, how many hours would my indie charge for this?

[shack]

Most places are $2500.00-$3000.00

That's why I did my own

[loanrangie]

Most places are $2500.00-$3000.00

That's why I did my ownI'd baulk at the cost as well and DIY [emoji106]

[Tins]

No, I'm guessing there's a joke in there somewhere!!

Yes.

[ledgewalker]

I'd baulk at the cost as well and DIY [emoji106]

I’m baulking too but when shaneGTR says to allow 10 hours, I’m thinking 20 hours or more for me [bawl]

[veebs]

I was charged $2355 for a drive in, drive out job to replace the AC compressor. Including all labour, parts and gas.
Done by a garage my trusted Indy sent me to in Perth.

To know it was done right, with a warranty, I was ok with that price :-)

[RANDLOVER]

No, I'm guessing there's a joke in there somewhere!!

I think not a joke but a compliment.

[Blacklotusdog]

I was charged $2355 for a drive in, drive out job to replace the AC compressor. Including all labour, parts and gas.
Done by a garage my trusted Indy sent me to in Perth.

To know it was done right, with a warranty, I was ok with that price :-)

Hi Veebs, I need to get this done at present. Can you advise who the garage was that completed the work for that price?

[Airmech953]

I've got the parts, but when I look under the bonnet I think that I don't need air-con just now.

[Blacklotusdog]

Hi Veebs, I need to get this done at present. Can you advise who the garage was that completed the work for that price?

Any chance someone can PM Veebs for me so he sees this? I don't have sufficient post count to direct message.

[Airmech953]

Any chance someone can PM Veebs for me so he sees this? I don't have sufficient post count to direct message.

Message forwarded

[TonyC]

Any chance someone can PM Veebs for me so he sees this? I don't have sufficient post count to direct message.

Hi,
If you need to get you post count to 10, join in here, you can even reply to your own replies.

Word Association Game (Vol II) (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/general-chat/264557-word-association-game-vol-ii.html)

Tony

[veebs]

Ok, I've been pulled from my slumber

Auto Owls in Bentley - I was suggested to head there by the independent LR mechanic in the same suburb

It's been a few years though, so you may see an escalation in costs...

[DiscoJeffster]

Ok, I've been pulled from my slumber

Auto Owls in Bentley - I was suggested to head there by the independent LR mechanic in the same suburb

It's been a few years though, so you may see an escalation in costs...

Don’t sleep. Be with us. We need you.

[Blacklotusdog]

Ok, I've been pulled from my slumber

Auto Owls in Bentley - I was suggested to head there by the independent LR mechanic in the same suburb

It's been a few years though, so you may see an escalation in costs...

Thanks Veebs, reckon I have already been talking to the same people and also got directed to auto owls. Now looking at $3,500 to get it done. Auto owls didn’t quote to replace the dryer recieved which a local Indy in dunsborough included in the quote. Did you get this done as well or just did the compressor?

[veebs]

Thanks Veebs, reckon I have already been talking to the same people and also got directed to auto owls. Now looking at $3,500 to get it done. Auto owls didn’t quote to replace the dryer recieved which a local Indy in dunsborough included in the quote. Did you get this done as well or just did the compressor?

No, I just got the compressor done at the time, and the system has been working just fine ever since. Is there a reason to suspect the dryer?

[veebs]

Don’t sleep. Be with us. We need you.

Haha, I fear for our future :P

[BradC]

Is there a reason to suspect the dryer?

Dryers don't tend to fail anymore, they do saturate with moisture though. R134a tends to hydrolyze into an acid when it spends much time with moisture. Combine that with PAG oil being incredibly hygroscopic the role of the dryer is pretty important. It's always good practice to change the dryer when the system has been open for any length of time. A vacuum can't pull all the moisture from the oil.

[shack]

Dryers don't tend to fail anymore, they do saturate with moisture though. R134a tends to hydrolyze into an acid when it spends much time with moisture. Combine that with PAG oil being incredibly hygroscopic the role of the dryer is pretty important. It's always good practice to change the dryer when the system has been open for any length of time. A vacuum can't pull all the moisture from the oil.

I know LR specIfy PAG oil must be used, but what is the benefit of that over the numerous others available?

Considering a number of newer oils claiming to be "virtually non hygroscopic".

I recently cut apart a D3 dryer to see how they operate, incredibly basic.. They have a filter medium to catch bits and a desiccant like you would find in the suspension compressor on D3.

The desiccant can obviously reach saturation level and would then fail to do anything, leaving moisture going around the system.

Considering the simplicity of working on a D3 or D4 AC, replacing the drier as you mentioned is a no brainer, as it's the only easy bit to do.

[BradC]

I know LR specIfy PAG oil must be used, but what is the benefit of that over the numerous others available?


Nothing really. PAG was the first cheap "oil" that they could make R134a actually transport. The original PAGs were awful and would hydrolyse as badly or worse than the refrigerant. The newer "double end capped" PAGs are a bit more stable.

Basically the compressor manufacturer specifies PAG, so that's what you use. Any of the later "ester" based oils are ok provided they can be transported by the refrigerant. What you don't want to do is mix oils, so if you do intend to change you need a thorough flush first.

PAG is no good in proper refrigeration systems as it's problematic around copper, but as there's no copper in a vehicle A/C and it's cheap to make that's what they use.