Disco 2 - actually TD5 - recommended fluids - anti-freeze and Diffs

[MBE_NZ]

Hi there fellow forum members - after advice from the gurus


I've always heard that red OAT should be used in the TD5 - However on Penrites "What to use site" it recommends using their "Blue coolant"
Find the right oil for your vehicle | Penrite Product Selector | Penrite Oil (https://penriteoil.com.au/product-selector'vehicle=24119&by=my_garage#/recommendations)
is this OK to use or should I use "Red OAT"


however it also says to use Transgear 75W-90 in the transfer case AND diffs (for Disco TD5)


but recommends using same coolant and transfer as above, but Gear oil 80W-90 for Defender TD5 Diffs - aint they the same bloody diffs???




Comments / advice?
TIA


I have both TD5 Defender and Disco, which is how I noticed the differences

[woko]

Someone mentioned a while ago that the red oat from penrite has a high silicone content, and not suitable for the td5. I haven't researched myself though. The colour is irrelevant, penrite recommend blue, use blue.
With the diff oils, the w is the cold rating. It won't really bother us in Australia. Ep90 is the spec in the manual for -10 to 50+ ambient temps

[d2dave]

I use Cummins PG Platinum in mine vehicles.

As they state in their promotion "any engine"

I have been using it now for about 9 years without any problems.

https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/south-pacific/sites/cumminsfiltration-empty.bitnamiapp.com.south-pacific/files/LT36559AU-Fleetguard-PG%20Platinum-A4-4pg-FAQ-Brochure.pdf

[RRT]

Hi there fellow forum members - after advice from the gurus


however it also says to use Transgear 75W-90 in the transfer case AND diffs (for Disco TD5)



Comments / advice?
TIA


I have both TD5 Defender and Disco, which is how I noticed the differences



One note for people with the Ashcroft ATB diffs is that they recommend

"The Ashcroft Torque Biasing centre works best with a good quality EP80/90 Mineral based oil, we do not recommend synthetic oils, friction additives / modifiers and not required."

[Tombie]

Hi there fellow forum members - after advice from the gurus


I've always heard that red OAT should be used in the TD5 - However on Penrites "What to use site" it recommends using their "Blue coolant"
Find the right oil for your vehicle | Penrite Product Selector | Penrite Oil (https://penriteoil.com.au/product-selector'vehicle=24119&by=my_garage#/recommendations)
is this OK to use or should I use "Red OAT"


however it also says to use Transgear 75W-90 in the transfer case AND diffs (for Disco TD5)


but recommends using same coolant and transfer as above, but Gear oil 80W-90 for Defender TD5 Diffs - aint they the same bloody diffs???




Comments / advice?
TIA


I have both TD5 Defender and Disco, which is how I noticed the differences

Defender diff they are referring to the Salisbury style - you have a rover diff... Stick with the 75w-90

As Justin mentioned, colour means nothing in coolant - its the TYPE of OAT that matters.
In Penrites range Red/Pink is SiOAT and contains silicates (which in this engine you dont want) so stick with the Blue stuff

I run Penrite in all my fleet, and theyre all Blue coolant (D4, D90, D2, RRS)

[johnp38]

Hi there fellow forum members - after advice from the gurus


I've always heard that red OAT should be used in the TD5 - However on Penrites "What to use site" it recommends using their "Blue coolant"
Find the right oil for your vehicle | Penrite Product Selector | Penrite Oil (https://penriteoil.com.au/product-selector'vehicle=24119&by=my_garage#/recommendations)
is this OK to use or should I use "Red OAT"


however it also says to use Transgear 75W-90 in the transfer case AND diffs (for Disco TD5)


but recommends using same coolant and transfer as above, but Gear oil 80W-90 for Defender TD5 Diffs - aint they the same bloody diffs???




Comments / advice?
TIA


I have both TD5 Defender and Disco, which is how I noticed the differences

183982

I use everything in the Penrite recommendations (1999 D2 Td5 Auto) bar the coolant additive.

All the oil manufacturers websites cover their backsides by simply recommending the product they have which is the equivalent of the vehicle manufacturers requirements.

Penrite has the one oil with no substitutes but their disclaimer is nothing else in their range is the same as the manufacturer specs. You could use another oil in their range but up to you to determine it's suitability for your application.

By following the Penrite/Castrol/Mobil and other oil company guides you don't need to question things like why is defender different to disco diff recomendation etc because it's their job to know one is a salisbury diff and other is banjo diff.

For the coolant additive however I use www.rmi25.com (http://www.rmi25.com) as I don't care about anti-boil (don't run the vehicle at high borderline temps for emission consideration) or anti-freeze for ice country (my testicles just ain't going there) and just want an anti corrosive additive.

Penrite is well priced and on shelves everywhere.

[woko]

Defenders have never had a salisbury in the front. In rave, they only list final drive/ axle oil. So it's the same grade oil for both salisbury and banjo

[Tombie]

183982

I use everything in the Penrite recommendations (1999 D2 Td5 Auto) bar the coolant additive.

All the oil manufacturers websites cover their backsides by simply recommending the product they have which is the equivalent of the vehicle manufacturers requirements.

Penrite has the one oil with no substitutes but their disclaimer is nothing else in their range is the same as the manufacturer specs. You could use another oil in their range but up to you to determine it's suitability for your application.

By following the Penrite/Castrol/Mobil and other oil company guides you don't need to question things like why is defender different to disco diff recomendation etc because it's their job to know one is a salisbury diff and other is banjo diff.

For the coolant additive however I use www.rmi25.com (http://www.rmi25.com) as I don't care about anti-boil (don't run the vehicle at high borderline temps for emission consideration) or anti-freeze for ice country (my testicles just ain't going there) and just want an anti corrosive additive.

Penrite is well priced and on shelves everywhere.

Why are you using that rubbish?
Xanthene is an inhibitor to corrosion in Mild steel (and in a specific acid solution no less).
Given your cooling system is alloy, cast and plastic, it’s doing nothing! Absolutely zilch.

Penrite (and almost all other) coolants contain proper inhibitors.

Higher temps in diesels - aren’t for emissions - it’s for combustion. Warm engines burn better and a TD5 working hard will easily exceed 115° without risk.

In context of use, large mining equipment runs coolant - it’s expensive compared to water and inhibitor. Do you not think in heavy gear that doesn’t get cold that they wouldn’t switch if they could?

Random additives from 3rd parties are questionable at best, at worst can do more harm than good.

[johnp38]

Why are you using that rubbish?
Xanthene is an inhibitor to corrosion in Mild steel (and in a specific acid solution no less).
Given your cooling system is alloy, cast and plastic, it’s doing nothing! Absolutely zilch.

Penrite (and almost all other) coolants contain proper inhibitors.

Higher temps in diesels - aren’t for emissions - it’s for combustion. Warm engines burn better and a TD5 working hard will easily exceed 115° without risk.

In context of use, large mining equipment runs coolant - it’s expensive compared to water and inhibitor. Do you not think in heavy gear that doesn’t get cold that they wouldn’t switch if they could?

Random additives from 3rd parties are questionable at best, at worst can do more harm than good.

I value everyone's opinion and experience that's how I constantly learn (sometimes relearn what I forgot) .

But I am not a laboratory so can only go by the information on their (www.rmi25.com (http://www.rmi25.com)) website and my personal experience of using it the last few months.

Yes higher temps in engines (diesel and petrol) improve combustion efficiency (and emissions) hence ceramics in some manufacturers research engines, but I like mine to run cooler, that's me, my car.

I believe (without going back to their website to check) they sell the stuff for mining use too.

A bottle of rmi-25 for me does 20 litres and costs same as buying a litre of other brands green/ red concentrate so gave it a go.

As I do my own spannering I am quite happy to try the suck it and see approach and doing 'questionable' things like ditching the centrifuge , the fuel cooler, re arranging the cooling system plumbing etc. as any screw ups are simply undone at my convenience while others can learn from my wins/losses at no risk to themselves.

And honestly as a poor **** I will only spend a buck when I have exhausted the cheaper option too, so once I have stopped **** farting around with the attention seeking motor and expect it will stay sealed for a while that would be the only time I will put in the OAT coolant.

[AK83]

I don't know why someone would call RMI25 rubbish.

I've used it to flush out my tdi, and it worked brilliantly.
Maybe a little too good.

I manually flushed it with hose when I first got it(ie. straight water) and it ran clean.
No worries I thought.
Put in coolant and it turned a bit brown.
So had to do it again, and not wanting to waste money, ran straight water for a short time(maybe a month or so).
All clean.
Not really tho.
I then got a bottle of this RMI stuff and added it and again straight water turned more brown again.
Not only did it turn brown again, but it also had this oily residue in it too, which contaminated the semi clear(not solid black type) expansion tank.

Was very hard to clean the translucent expansion tank to be able to see the level of the coolant.

Rinse and repeat again .. I must have cleaned the cooling system for about 6 or more months, until I was satisfied that it was clean of any rusty scaley crap.

I reckon without the RMI stuff, it would still have had some pocket of crud remaining.
I got tired of the browny stain in the expansion tank and ordered a new one simply to view the coolant level easily.

In my experience it has good cleaning properties.

Not long after that, ran it in bros TD5 to clean coolant(was clean anyhow) and then added it to dads HDi pug too.
Pug still has it in, but TD5 was just to clean it .. then add coolant.

So, if this is rubbish, at least it's good rubbish.

[jwb]

CAT ELC is the identical product to the original Texaco product specified in the handbook for the Td5.

$32 from any CAT location in premix form.

PS. its orange

[johnp38]

CAT ELC is the identical product to the original Texaco product specified in the handbook for the Td5.

$32 from any CAT location in premix form.

PS. its orange

Is that for 1 litre?

CAT ELC (Extended Life Coolant) Premixed 18L; 3658396D - Filter Discounters (https://www.filterdiscounters.com.au/cat-elc-extended-life-coolant-premixed-18l-3658396d/) different price picture here for full radiator fill.

Like I said, cost conscious person here, so no big spend unless it's going to be in there for years. RMI-25 is $30 (250ml) delivered to the door and that alone with demineralized (or tap) water does my radiator.

Anyway plenty of opinions and plenty of engine/diff/gearbox/trans oils / coolants / greases that will do the job and meet or exceed any requirements from over 20 years ago.

So if you want to coast along just pick your fave brand and follow their recommendations for your vehicle.

[jwb]

Is that for 1 litre?



Was for 3.8L (1 US gal) about a year ago.

[rick130]

One note for people with the Ashcroft ATB diffs is that they recommend

"The Ashcroft Torque Biasing centre works best with a good quality EP80/90 Mineral based oil, we do not recommend synthetic oils, friction additives / modifiers and not required."

Ashcroft's are covering their butts with that recommendation as most EP90 fluids available in the UK are just basic diff fluids and so will work ok.

First and foremost the ideal fluid wont contain LSD additives.
Any LSD friction modifiers will result in little to no torque biasing, you'll pretty much render the diff useless.
I also believe you need a multigrade as the lube holes aren't that big.
A few people have destroyed LT230 ATB's in race situations that appeared to be from a lack of lube.
A multigrade will flow much more easily into the gear pockets until the diff reaches operating temps. And Rover diffs run pretty cool anyway, they don't generate much heat.

The best fluids for a torque biasing diff IMO are transaxle fluids, eg, designed and formulated for manual transmissions.
They contain the correct friction modifiers for synchros, which also work well in helping the helical gears bias.
I've always plumped for Motul Gear 300 75w-90 (not the lsd version), and interestingly that's what Wavetrack recommend for their torque biasing diff.
Quaiffe recommend Fuchs Titan Syn 5 75w-90
Both are full synthetic fluids, with no LSD additives and have the correct friction modifiers for synchros.

Castrol Syntrax Universal, etc. would be good choices, too.

Oils like Penrite Pro Gear 75w-90 don't play well with ATB's, even though they're touted for manual transmissions as they contain LSD additives.

[RRT]

Ashcroft's are covering their butts with that recommendation as most EP90 fluids available in the UK are just basic diff fluids and so will work ok.

First and foremost the ideal fluid wont contain LSD additives.
Any LSD friction modifiers will result in little to no torque biasing, you'll pretty much render the diff useless.
I also believe you need a multigrade as the lube holes aren't that big.
A few people have destroyed LT230 ATB's in race situations that appeared to be from a lack of lube.
A multigrade will flow much more easily into the gear pockets until the diff reaches operating temps. And Rover diffs run pretty cool anyway, they don't generate much heat.

The best fluids for a torque biasing diff IMO are transaxle fluids, eg, designed and formulated for manual transmissions.
They contain the correct friction modifiers for synchros, which also work well in helping the helical gears bias.
I've always plumped for Motul Gear 300 75w-90 (not the lsd version), and interestingly that's what Wavetrack recommend for their torque biasing diff.
Quaiffe recommend Fuchs Titan Syn 5 75w-90
Both are full synthetic fluids, with no LSD additives and have the correct friction modifiers for synchros.

Castrol Syntrax Universal, etc. would be good choices, too.

Oils like Penrite Pro Gear 75w-90 don't play well with ATB's, even though they're touted for manual transmissions as they contain LSD additives.



Much appreciated, why this site is so valuable.