06 Defender clutch master cylinder

[Colmoore]

Gday All

My clutch master spat it on my way home from work yesterday arv so I’m looking for a new one or a rebuild kit today but not having much luck this Saturday morning 🧐 unless I drive up to all4x4 in Newy.

I’m on the central coast nsw, anyone out there got any ideas or one I could buy for an 06 td5 110?

I bought the vehicle under a year ago and I’ve topped up the fluid w dot 4 in clutch once in that time but failed to notice that it looked a filthy grey colour….. [emoji849]
Is this due to the alloy housing being broken down by brake fluid?!

Considering the state of fluid, should I be looking at doing the slave as well? [emoji51] I’d rather avoid that if it’s practical!

I notice that master cylinders are available for between $35 and $100 odd; or is it worth spending $ on an ss resleave and rebuild kit?

Thanks crew

[travelrover]

Saturday morning is going to be tough to find anyone open nowadays. Graeme Cooper in St Peter’s parts used to be open until noon. Not sure if that is still the case.

Always wise to change master and slave together, and they are pretty cheap.

Some seem to last forever and some not so good. I have a 99 td5 from new and master/slave changed for the first time about three years ago.

Good luck!

[JDNSW]

If it is the same as earlier ones, it is the most common one used on trailer override brakes, so a trailer/caravan place might be the go. (you need to use the pushrod out of the old one)

[Colmoore]

Thanks gentlemen and useful to info on the trailer mc, that might be v handy JDNSW.
Any idea why the fluid in the reservoir has gone milky grey and thick?!

[travelrover]

A bit late now but just a thought, maybe Repco will have something

[JDNSW]

Thanks gentlemen and useful to info on the trailer mc, that might be v handy JDNSW.
Any idea why the fluid in the reservoir has gone milky grey and thick?!

Sounds like it has water contamination.

[Colmoore]

Thanks to everyone for your advice.

On closer inspection after pulling the clutch mc and sc, the fluid was black from contamination of the seals I think.

I’ve replaced the mc after removing the pedal box and greasing all parts and I’ve put a kit through the old one so I’ve got a spare.
I’ve got a LOF power slave and spring as the clutch pedal is as heavy as a race car!

Question: the clutch fork actuator pin moves very freely back and forth, it seems, through the full extent (it’s definitely connected to the clutch fork but I can move it all the way in and all the way out easily with my fingers - shouldn’t there be some resistance?

If all is well, I’ll have her back on the road for tomorrow [emoji322]🤞

[Colmoore]

Seems the weather is way too good to be sitting on a device browsing AULRO….
Commendable!

However, seems I’ve been chasing this issue from the wrong end [emoji37]
Grabbed the actuator pin, pulled it out and winkled my finger in til I touched the clutch fork clip, held the fork still and pushed the pin back in……..

The pin’s worn through the clutch fork.

I think the cascade of failures began when the pin pushed through the fork causing the already worn slave cylinder to over extend and lose the fluid.
The MC then leaked as it too, was borderline…..

When I pulled the cylinders down the plunger seals hadn’t totally disintegrated but they didn’t generate anywhere near the compression the new ones do & as I said, the fluid was black.

Soooo

I have to work at least mon-fri and I’m not doing major mechanical work like this in my driveway.
She’ll have to go to a workshop and I’ll have to rent a ute.

Thanks again for your input crew [emoji106]