Indicator relay location on D4

[Netorius]

Hoping someone can advise me. I am trying to locate the indicator / flicker relay on my 2014 D4. Reason is I want to see if I can add some sound deadning to mute the tick-tock sound a bit. It is just so loud. It seems to be somewhere under the dash on the drivers side but not immediately evident. I don't want to dismantle the whole dash when there are so many people smarter than me who will know the location immediately. I would have thought it would be a readily accessible / serviceable component.

Has any one else been frustrated by the loudness and come up with a solution to deaden the sound a bit? Thanks

[BradC]

It's not mechanical. The sound is generated by the instrument console as a "simulated click". I suspect it's the same speaker (because that'd be logical) as used to make the various "ding" or "bong" alert sounds.

[PhilipA]

In a D2 the flasher unit is part of the ECU, so I would think the same of a D3. So no "flasher unit" to dampen.
Regards PhilipA

[Netorius]

It's not mechanical. The sound is generated by the instrument console as a "simulated click". I suspect it's the same speaker (because that'd be logical) as used to make the various "ding" or "bong" alert sounds.

Incredible - makes sense why I couldn't find the relay. [biggrin]

I guess my next question is, is there a way to "adjust the volume" via the ECU with a IID Tool?

[BradC]

Kinda reminds me of the ad on TV where the guy keeps buying more tools and stripping down the dash/interior of his car trying to find the rattle which turned out to be his girlfriends ear-rings in the ash tray.

No, I don't believe there is a volume control. Back when I was on the tools the standard procedure for quieting a sounder was to fill it full of silicone, but that might be going a bit far in this scenario.

[cjc_td5]

As said, its ecu generated.
And it has a party trick I found recently when my rear tail light assembly died. The noise and display on the dash would flash at double speed (much like an old school thermal flasher can would with a blown bulb), but the still working front indicator and the trailer indicator lights were flashing at its normal rate.

[Netorius]

I am no guru with computor programming, and I do not even own a GAP IId Tool, but surely if this is in the ECU, it is fully programable. You would think that the flash timer will enable the on delay set, set to timer count (say 400ms) the off delay set, start timer again etc. The switch then activates a certain frequency tone "Tick" and then on the off set, a "Tock". The output volume will be set at a certain volume. I would have thought simple for anyone with the right tools, but maybe not. Just interested for sake of discussion as from this thread, I am happy to live with the loudness.

[BradC]

This isn't meant to be nasty. It's realistic and comes from someone with 30+ years experience in breaking and patching systems.


I am no guru with computor programming, and I do not even own a GAP IId Tool, but

As is said on all technical (particularly programming) forums : "Patches appreciated". Unless you want to get into it yourself (and make no mistake, the Guys at GAP would help you get the firmware in and out, but it'd be up to you to disassemble, patch and re-build) then you're likely SOL.


I would have thought simple for anyone with the right tools......shows you don't really have much of an idea of how to modify firmware in these things.

Simple is relative and requires either someone is willing to pay real money to get it done, or a sufficiently motivated and capable person scratching an itch. There's probably a hundred or so hours in getting up to speed on the firmware, then patching and testing. That doesn't include the time to build the test bench, so you're probably $20k+ in the hole by the time you have enough info to make it work. How much would you pay for a patch (on top of $800 for a GAP tool to do the patch?)

How many D4 owners do you know that'd be willing to buy the patch?

[Netorius]

This isn't meant to be nasty. It's realistic and comes from someone with 30+ years experience in breaking and patching systems.



As is said on all technical (particularly programming) forums : "Patches appreciated". Unless you want to get into it yourself (and make no mistake, the Guys at GAP would help you get the firmware in and out, but it'd be up to you to disassemble, patch and re-build) then you're likely SOL.

...shows you don't really have much of an idea of how to modify firmware in these things.

Simple is relative and requires either someone is willing to pay real money to get it done, or a sufficiently motivated and capable person scratching an itch. There's probably a hundred or so hours in getting up to speed on the firmware, then patching and testing. That doesn't include the time to build the test bench, so you're probably $20k+ in the hole by the time you have enough info to make it work. How much would you pay for a patch (on top of $800 for a GAP tool to do the patch?)

How many D4 owners do you know that'd be willing to buy the patch?Perfect response thanks. So it is not a simple task like modifying a registry item in windows to reduce the volume from say 7 to 4[emoji106]
Takes someone who knows (you) to clarify to those who don't (me).

Thanks for the clarification.

[Tombie]

You must have very sensitive ears... Its quiet compared to many vehicles I drive...

[PhilipA]

I couldn't hear mine until I got hearing aids!
Regards PhilipA

[101RRS]

You must have very sensitive ears... Its quiet compared to many vehicles I drive...

Yes a first world problem.

[BMKal]

Can't hear mine at all sometimes if there's some decent music on the stereo and I have the volume cranked up a bit. [bigwhistle]

[Netorius]

Can't hear mine at all sometimes if there's some decent music on the stereo and I have the volume cranked up a bit. [bigwhistle]
That's the solution - perfect!

Live by the mantra "If it's too loud, you're too old!"
[biggrin]

I will live with it.