Hoist advice

[rar110]

Well after a few years I am getting closer to actually getting a shed. Council approved, slab done (in anticipation of hoist), and construction about to start (apparently-will believe it when i see it done).

I am keen to get a hoist, and am looking for advice about pitfalls and what to look for in the used market. As usual, any advice would be appreciated. I did use the Tapatalk function to search and came up with nothing.

Thanks

[p38arover]

I did a search on my phone (not with Tapatalk) and found a number of threads on hoists.

[RANDLOVER]

Well after a few years I am getting closer to actually getting a shed............. Tapatalk function to search and came up with nothing.

Thanks


I did a search on my phone (not with Tapatalk) and found a number of threads on hoists.

The best the search function came up with is 2 Post Hoist Question Please - Page 2 (aulro.com) (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/tool-time/258732-2-post-hoist-question-please-2.html)

[rar110]

Thanks maybe it’s a Tapatalk thing. It wouldn’t even open the hyperlink.

[p38arover]

Dunno why people use TapaTalk. I just use Chrome on my iPhone and view fora in normal mode, not mobile view.

[rar110]

thanks Ron, I find the tapa format less cluttered. But it has limitations. Ha, even after typing this in safari on my phone I can’t see where the post button is. I had to go back to tapa.

[rar110]

And thanks to which ever admin mod moved this to tool time. I didn’t know there was that sub category.

[oka374]

I've had a 6 tonne 4 post Tufflift with two 3t rolling beams for over ten years and it has been pretty well faultless in that time with only minor adjustment and repairs mostly due to me.
If buying a second hand hoist of any description make sure it can lift whatever you want as many are tired and no longer lift to their rated capacity. A mate has bought two and neither would lift an empty Toyota Landcruiser ute more than a metre off the floor
New hoists are relatively cheap for what you get especially when used in a home workshop situation, I would certaily recommend the Tufflift.

[Bearman]

Peter, I have had a 4ton 2 post hoist for about 8 years now and it will do all I need. It will even lift the 6x6 but I am a bit wary when it is 6' off the floor so I put a prop under the rear crossmember to steady it. Pretty sure I bought it off a mob called Autohoists Australia. All made in China of course.

[peterjj]

Rather than buy second hand I bought the cheapest new two post I could find, at the time a 4.5tonne Joels garage hoist on special and have had no problems.
Your shed slab is supposed to be twice as thick as a standard slab, can't remember actual thickness requirement.
You are supposed to fit hoist to slab a certain distance from the edge of the slab as well. Because of this last point my hoist is not centered to the shed door which makes driving in to middle of the hoist posts trickier.
A consideration if you plan installing yourself is the post are really heavy. Mine were forklifted onto a car trailer then at home i couldn't get them off. Ended up reversing into shed, chaining posts to opposite wall post then driving out to slide them off trailer. Then used chain hoist attached to roof beams to standup and position the posts. Lucky the steel posts and beams were up to the task.

I bought a hard cap for when working under the the car because number of times I hit my head on the hoist arms, which are much firmer than my head!
Wanted the hoist so i don't have to crawl around the ground but still need to do that every time using the hoist to get the four arms into just the right position before lifting. Sometimes i think it would have been nicer to spend more and get four post so i can just drive on and lift, but two post really good for suspension work and tyre rotation and body off engine work.
I can also swing the post arms into the ute back to lift heavy things out

[Tins]

The slab is vital. You don't want a Deefer ( or an OKA! ) on your head.

Also, when we were shopping for my son's Tuffit we looked at second hand. Nearly all were 3 phase. Do you have that? I don't recall exactly, but his two poster was maybe $3.5K new a year ago, and it lifts his laden GU wagon effortlessly. He installed it himself using their specs and instructions fairly easily.

[p38arover]

The hoist that Scouse has is interesting. It's a 4-poster on wheels. He can move it around in his shed. It will carry a P38A (his) or an L322 (mine) - he's had them on the hoist.

[oka374]

When I bought mine Tufflift were the only ones that had a 6 tonne 4 poster with single phase, had all sorts of comments from other brands of single phase aren't made, too slow etc, at home it doesn't matter how long it takes it's still faster than a jack.
Having rolling jack beams on a 4 poster makes all sorts of jobs easier, can lift the entire vehicle off the hoist to do wheel rotations, remove complete axle and diff assemblies, suspension work etc.
I removed the front end completely with the Oka sitting on large stands under the chassis the engine and trans could be dropped on a rolling beam and then slid onto a lift table and lowered to the floor then rolled out from under the hoist and vehicle. Replacement is then a reverse procedure.
A two poster would be ideal for a Landrover body lift, don't think I would like to have 6 tonne on a two poster though especially as heavier vehicles tend to be longer.

[rar110]

Thanks everyone for the very useful advice. It’s great to benefit from actual experience.

I think a 2 post 4 tonne hoist will be enough. I cant see me lifting anything bigger than 2.5 tonne. I dont have any power to the shed yet, that’s another job. I will be fitting a 15 amp point but would prob prefer to keep it at single phase.

Ive seen that many used hoists are 3 phase power.

The concreter made provision for a two post hoist when pouring the shed slab.

Im looking at Tufflift and Aussie car lift sites. They look quite similar. What’s the advantage/disadvantage of base plate vs overhead plate?

[Tins]

Thanks everyone for the very useful advice. It’s great to benefit from actual experience.

I think a 2 post 4 tonne hoist will be enough. I cant see me lifting anything bigger than 2.5 tonne. I dont have any power to the shed yet, that’s another job. I will be fitting a 15 amp point but would prob prefer to keep it at single phase.

Ive seen that many used hoists are 3 phase power.

The concreter made provision for a two post hoist when pouring the shed slab.

On the subject of power points: get more than you think you'll need. Costs a bit more but is way cheaper than adding them later. 15 amp is good, but consider at least one 32 amp. I bought my son a good MIG welder from BOC. It has a 15 amp plug fitted, but it turns out that was fro "demo" purposes. It needs 32 to run its duty cycle.

Splurge on good lights as well. Better to do it now during the build, if you can stretch the budget, cos you won't later. LED Highbay are pretty good.

Also, consider painting the floor. Doesn't sound like much, but it makes a huge difference for keeping it clean from oil spills, and the reflected light is really worth it.

Before and after:
184388184389

[Tins]

When I bought mine Tufflift were the only ones that had a 6 tonne 4 poster with single phase, had all sorts of comments from other brands of single phase aren't made, too slow etc, at home it doesn't matter how long it takes it's still faster than a jack.
Having rolling jack beams on a 4 poster makes all sorts of jobs easier, can lift the entire vehicle off the hoist to do wheel rotations, remove complete axle and diff assemblies, suspension work etc.
I removed the front end completely with the Oka sitting on large stands under the chassis the engine and trans could be dropped on a rolling beam and then slid onto a lift table and lowered to the floor then rolled out from under the hoist and vehicle. Replacement is then a reverse procedure.
A two poster would be ideal for a Landrover body lift, don't think I would like to have 6 tonne on a two poster though especially as heavier vehicles tend to be longer.

I want to bring #74 to your place!

[p38arover]

The hoist that Scouse has is interesting. It's a 4-poster on wheels. He can move it around in his shed. It will carry a P38A (his) or an L322 (mine) - he's had them on the hoist.

I forgot to say this also has rolling jack beams so one can lift the front and/or rear to do wheel changes, brakes, etc.

[rar110]

On the subject of power points: get more than you think you'll need. Costs a bit more but is way cheaper than adding them later. 15 amp is good, but consider at least one 32 amp. I bought my son a good MIG welder from BOC. It has a 15 amp plug fitted, but it turns out that was fro "demo" purposes. It needs 32 to run its duty cycle.

Splurge on good lights as well. Better to do it now during the build, if you can stretch the budget, cos you won't later. LED Highbay are pretty good.

Also, consider painting the floor. Doesn't sound like much, but it makes a huge difference for keeping it clean from oil spills, and the reflected light is really worth it.

Before and after:
184388184389

Thanks Tins, what paint did you use?

[Tins]

Thanks Tins, what paint did you use?

Dulux Avista semi. There are others, it's what they had. It doesn't seem to chip if you drop something on it.

[oka374]

If you want to be a real cheapskate with painting the floor good old cheap water based wooden fence paint works well.
We painted a shed floor with it about 13 years ago and it's still holding up well.
A few years ago son had a brand new house and wanted to paint the double garage floor, as with most new homeowners funds were tight so I suggested fence paint, it's no longer as cheap as it once was and a bit harder to find but we did two coats over a couple of days and it still is holding up well.
We washed the floor down and allowed it to dry before the first coat to remove all the construction dust and spills and then the two coats were applied 24 hours apart, it was summer and it dried quickly.
The first coat soaks into the concrete really well and the second and or third gives the finish, just applied with a brush around the edges and roller the rest.

[oka374]

John you are welcome anytime but shed rules are that that my vehicle goes back in each night unless an extended stay for yours has been negotiated.
Our previous house had a pit so that rule was established as my son and his mates used it for all sorts of projects and vehicles.

[oka374]

A mate's truck on the hoist in the shed
184404

[rar110]

Thanks again.

Is concrete grey the colour of choice, and is grit for grip a good idea?

[Tins]

Pretty sure it’s tintable. With modern paint I’d say no to the grit. The floor I showed you isn’t slippery, and grit paint is bloody hard to mix.

[3toes]

No one has mentioned it but has the height from the selected lift at max height to roof at lowest point been measured to ensure clearance from current and any possible projects. Do not forget to add on for roof racks and other options

Say this as have seen it forgotten until vehicle hit roof when raised. This was a professional garage and installation

[Tins]

No one has mentioned it but has the height from the selected lift at max height to roof at lowest point been measured to ensure clearance from current and any possible projects. Do not forget to add on for roof racks and other options

Say this as have seen it forgotten until vehicle hit roof when raised. This was a professional garage and installation

Agreed, but this is negated if the hoist chosen has the clear floor option for the cross connectors, which I would recommend. These hoists limit the lift with a safety bar. They are also better if you need to push the vehicle into place, as you often will because the posts will mean you can't open the doors to get out....

[rar110]

Agreed, but this is negated if the hoist chosen has the clear floor option for the cross connectors, which I would recommend. These hoists limit the lift with a safety bar. They are also better if you need to push the vehicle into place, as you often will because the posts will mean you can't open the doors to get out....

I hadn’t thought about door opening.

The shed is 2.7 at eves. So not as tall as your or OKA’s shed.

Thanks for advice on overhead cross connectors.

[rar110]

Peter, I have had a 4ton 2 post hoist for about 8 years now and it will do all I need. It will even lift the 6x6 but I am a bit wary when it is 6' off the floor so I put a prop under the rear crossmember to steady it. Pretty sure I bought it off a mob called Autohoists Australia. All made in China of course.

Thanks Brian, something like this?

ACE-C9 4000kg 2 Post Hoist Clear Floor – Autohoist Australia (https://autohoist.com.au/product/ace-c9-4000kg-2-post-hoist-clear-floor/)

[ramblingboy42]

I don't know if you're budgeting but North Queensland Cranes sell hoists

I worked for them for several years and they are the most respectable family owned business you could find.

cheers Den

[Bearman]

Thanks Brian, something like this?

ACE-C9 4000kg 2 Post Hoist Clear Floor – Autohoist Australia (https://autohoist.com.au/product/ace-c9-4000kg-2-post-hoist-clear-floor/)

Very similar but I bought the one with the cables and hoses that goes across under a plate on the bottom.

[steveG]

Thanks again.

Is concrete grey the colour of choice, and is grit for grip a good idea?

Definitely no grit.
One of the big benifits of painting is it makes cleanup so easy.
Oil spill - wipe it up. Dirt and dust - use a broom.
If you use grit it it would be a PITA to clean up.

The other benefit of paint is that if you do end up having to roll around under a vehicle for some reason - it’s sooo much easier to slide around on smooth paint.

I’ve just got a generic industrial polyurethane concrete paint.
I don’t find it slippery at all, although if you left a pool of oil and came sprinting into the shed I’m sure it would be pretty slick.
I don’t move that fast nowadays…

I picked up my 3.7T tiff lift 2 post clear floor hoist for $1700 used.
It’s 3 phase, but I just run it with a cheap Chinese VFD that does 1ph 230v input, and 3 phase 400v output to the motor. About $200 from AliExpress.
Son in law went the other way and replaced the 3 phase hydraulic pack with a single phase one.
About $500 delivered from eBay.

Steve

[DoubleChevron]

I purchased an old 4post hoist last year .... you would categorise as "scrap metal" :) Its bloody fantastic. I wanted a 4post as the cement slab is garbage and not to be trusted. Its the best thing since sliced bread.

https://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/index.php?attachments/20220918_132743-jpg.210177

I couldn't understand how it worked, until it was together. Its a "wheels free" hoist. So the "yellow" frame can be left behind to support the car.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/tool-time/183520d1674906098-my-latest-treasure-20230128_170534.jpg

You can buy 240volt single phase power units/pumps with built in "everythign" required to run the hydraulic rams from $270 delivered through Vevo.

[Tins]

John you are welcome anytime but shed rules are that that my vehicle goes back in each night unless an extended stay for yours has been negotiated.
Our previous house had a pit so that rule was established as my son and his mates used it for all sorts of projects and vehicles.

Thanks, Peter, but I was hoping for #374 as a loan vehicle[bigwhistle]

[oka374]

Ha ha, we're at Wompinni, 15 Oka's here so far

[rar110]

The shed is finally up, with two projects finally under cover.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230429/b2abeb6bb16a6c425ea6dfc52e3f83ea.jpg

Of course it’s too small. But heaps better than before.

Next is a tank, power, and a hoist. Hopefully.

[Xtreme]

Nice shed....... how long do you expect it to stay tidy once you get active on those projects?

[goingbush]

I purchased an old 4post hoist last year .... you would categorise as "scrap metal" :) Its bloody fantastic. I wanted a 4post as the cement slab is garbage and not to be trusted. Its the best thing since sliced bread.



I couldn't understand how it worked, until it was together. Its a "wheels free" hoist. So the "yellow" frame can be left behind to support the car.



You can buy 240volt single phase power units/pumps with built in "everythign" required to run the hydraulic rams from $270 delivered through Vevo.

Thats great, never knew they existed, would suit my needs. Bradbury seem to be the only mob doing these. Given enough head room would you be happy enough to leave a car stored on it & park another car underneath ?

[TonyC]

I purchased an old 4post hoist last year .... you would categorise as "scrap metal" :) Its bloody fantastic. I wanted a 4post as the cement slab is garbage and not to be trusted. Its the best thing since sliced bread

I couldn't understand how it worked, until it was together. Its a "wheels free" hoist. So the "yellow" frame can be left behind to support the car.

You can buy 240volt single phase power units/pumps with built in "everythign" required to run the hydraulic rams from $270 delivered through Vevo.


Hi Shane,

When you use it wheel free mode, the car sits on the for/aft yellow beams, yes?

On my Defender the axles are somewhat lower than the chassis rails.

1) So how high are the pads that sit on the yellow beam, that the car sits on?

2) Could you remove a beam axle from a Landy, or would it be stuck above the yellow beams and behind the posts?

3) Can you raise or lower car on the yellow rails with the wheel ramps down? Or do the yellow beams only move with wheel ramps, then lock in place?

4) How much does the drive on ramps and wheel ramps get in the way/trip you up when working wheel free?

Thanks

Tony

[rar110]

I purchased an old 4post hoist last year .... you would categorise as "scrap metal" :) Its bloody fantastic. I wanted a 4post as the cement slab is garbage and not to be trusted. Its the best thing since sliced bread.

https://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/index.php?attachments/20220918_132743-jpg.210177

I couldn't understand how it worked, until it was together. Its a "wheels free" hoist. So the "yellow" frame can be left behind to support the car.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/tool-time/183520d1674906098-my-latest-treasure-20230128_170534.jpg

You can buy 240volt single phase power units/pumps with built in "everythign" required to run the hydraulic rams from $270 delivered through Vevo.

Thanks Shane.

Does it have the option of lifting with the wheels on the ramp and yellow rails removed? Or do the yellow rails stay on the hoist and you just push them both to one side? Thanks

[DoubleChevron]

Sorry for the delayed reply. I didn't see htis. I think my old hoist is from the 70's .... it'll be bloody ancient.

H4543 4 Post Wheel Free Hoist 5t | Molnar Hoists (https://molnarhoists.com.au/hoists-and-lifts/four-post-car-hoists/h4543-rails-wheel-free-4-post-hoist-5t/)

they are still sold new by molner. I imagine they would be VERY expensive new as they are a known commercial brand. The old one I have has no attachment points on the wheels free beams, though I'm sure the current models will have jacks that slide along the wheels free beams to allow you to lift from the body (mine will lift from the axles on a 4wd as they are the lowest point by far).

https://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/index.php?attachments/20230312_115324-jpg.218096/

the wheels free beams just sit on the cross bars and can be readily lifted away (they are massively heavy Ibeams running on small wheels). You can just roll them to the sides of the hoist if you don't want them in the way. If you look at the new hoist linked the wheels free beams sit a lot lower. On mine they are in the way for very low cars ( ie: all of my hydraulic citroens). So I have thrown some garden sleepers on it as shown.

https://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/index.php?attachments/id19-jpg.220891

Its so useful I spent quite a bit of time backing my car trailer upto it and dragging a parts car onto the hoist so I could work on it. There is nothing that isn't easier once you have access to a car hoist. That car shown there has a 124" wheel base (longer than a big old land yatch chev impala) and maybe 5mm of ground clearance. So this makes getting under it a breeze. You can't even get them onto 2 post hoists and you can't get the arms underneath.

I just have a bunch of 2" x 4" wood offcuts here I place on the wheels free beams to pickup whatever lift location I want to use under the car.

Yes, you could definatley use it as a parking hoist. Both the wheels free mechanism and the ramps themselves have heavy duty locks. Its would be an expensive way of getting a parking hoist though :)

[DoubleChevron]

Hi Shane,

When you use it wheel free mode, the car sits on the for/aft yellow beams, yes?

On my Defender the axles are somewhat lower than the chassis rails.

1) So how high are the pads that sit on the yellow beam, that the car sits on?

2) Could you remove a beam axle from a Landy, or would it be stuck above the yellow beams and behind the posts?

3) Can you raise or lower car on the yellow rails with the wheel ramps down? Or do the yellow beams only move with wheel ramps, then lock in place?

4) How much does the drive on ramps and wheel ramps get in the way/trip you up when working wheel free?

Thanks

Tony

How it works is the black part are a standard 4 post hoist. They carry the yellow parts with them. You can slide the yellow beams anywhere along the cross beams.

1) mines an early one... probably from the 70's with just Ibeams, I think the later ones have sliding jacks that run down the Ibeams
2) It depends if there is "Ibeam" jacks/rises to allow you to support the car from its body (rather than the axles). I imagine the jacking beams would be in the way, so you would just roll them to the sides. in this case a normal 4poster rolling jack would be better.
3) No, once they are locked in, they stay put. I lower the ramps to a comfortable height to be a work bench/seat once the car is supported.
4) Not at all that I have noticed. It would probably suck if you were used to a clear floor under a 2 post hoist. If you need a clear floor, just drop the ramps down until the are no longer holding supporting the wheels, and leave them up high out of the way :)

If you're removing bodies from chassis and axles from chassis, I'm guessing nothing is going to beat a 2post hoist!

[rar110]

Thanks Shane, much appreciated.

Yes I’ve seen them on the Molnar page.

It’s a tough choice. The 4 post Chinese options look ok and only a little more expensive than 2 post if you add two stabiliser stands to the 2 post cost.

[Tins]

It’s a tough choice.

It is. Thing to decide is what it will be used for the most, and what else you might need the space for. Two posters can do more everyday stuff, and don't take up the room, especially with the arms raised. Four posters can do very specific things that a two poster can't, but that would probably be less often. And the bloody things are in the way ALL the time. Ideally it would be great to have both, but If I had to choose one, and the budget was the same, I'd pick the two poster.

[DoubleChevron]

It is. Thing to decide is what it will be used for the most, and what else you might need the space for. Two posters can do more everyday stuff, and don't take up the room, especially with the arms raised. Four posters can do very specific things that a two poster can't, but that would probably be less often. And the bloody things are in the way ALL the time. Ideally it would be great to have both, but If I had to choose one, and the budget was the same, I'd pick the two poster.

I specifically looked only for a 4poster due to the hydraulic suspension cars I own. You need a safe way to get under them and have them supported by the wheels. I'm guessing anyone in the trade will want both ..... Or if only one, it would have to be a 2poster.

You need a *really* good floor for a 2poster ( I'd never put one in my shed .... no way!).

They are that cheap, these days, you could get them both old and 2nd hand and fit a 240volt motor to them.

[rar110]

Thanks Tins and Shane.

The concreter put in extra thickness specifically for a two post hoist in the middle bay. So it’s certainly set up for that option.

[cjc_td5]

Thanks Shane, much appreciated.

Yes I’ve seen them on the Molnar page.

It’s a tough choice. The 4 post Chinese options look ok and only a little more expensive than 2 post if you add two stabiliser stands to the 2 post cost.You can pick up a used Molnar hoist for $3k. I'd pick one of those over a new chinese hoist. The Molnars are very well made and all parts are available from Molnar in Adelaide.

[DoubleChevron]

You can pick up a used Molnar hoist for $3k. I'd pick one of those over a new chinese hoist. The Molnars are very well made and all parts are available from Molnar in Adelaide.

especially if you can convert them to 240 for $270 (inc delivery) with a vevo pump system.

[DoubleChevron]

Log in to Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1190333771488424/'ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A799aab4a-4738-436d-9ea6-5fc66f79ce57&__tn__=!%3AD)

molner 4poster with two rolling jacks for $2k. You'd just throw one of those vevor 240 pumps on it if you don't have 3phase

[cjc_td5]

Log in to Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1190333771488424/'ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A799aab4a-4738-436d-9ea6-5fc66f79ce57&__tn__=!%3AD)

molner 4poster with two rolling jacks for $2k. You'd just throw one of those vevor 240 pumps on it if you don't have 3phaseThat's a good buy. I paid $3K for one a 4 poat hoist on a pallet, and sold the jacking beams for $1k each, so it owes me less than $1k now. My hoist is being converted to a boat lift in a shed, so the beams were not needed.

[Warb]

Does anyone know if a 2 post hoist can be used with a SWB Series (88" or 86")? The rear spring brackets don't seem very far behind the mid point of the vehicle which would seem to make locating the rear arms far enough behind the C.O.G. (which I'm guessing is a short distance in front of the mid-point) a bit tricky. And that's if it's possible to swing the arms between the tyres anyway!

Any experience? Is a 4 post with jacking beams a better option for Series LR's?