Loss of 12v Power on Ignition

[Saitch]

Jumped in the D3 today, turned key, all dash lights as should be, turn to 'Ignition', all goes off, absolutely nix. Can't even get out of 'Park' and no remote locking. Crank battery at 12.6v.

I took the 'tilly to the bottlo, came back and tried the D3 again (about 45 min gap). Central locking all good, all lights on as normal, turn key, total blackout again.

The aux. battery is stuffed, on about 9v. Would this have any effect on things?

[Tombie]

Disconnect auxiliary and try again.
In all likelihood it’s been propping up the main for a while and the main is actually dead.

[Saitch]

Disconnect auxiliary and try again.
In all likelihood it’s been propping up the main for a while and the main is actually dead.

Tombie, I have removed the aux, with crank showing 12.6v. Left it for another 15 mins and have power again.
Turn key to ignition and there is a sharp 'click' and all goes dead.

[Tombie]

Tombie, I have removed the aux, with crank showing 12.6v. Left it for another 15 mins and have power again.
Turn key to ignition and there is a sharp 'click' and all goes dead.

Sounds like starter trouble.
Solenoid is throwing and then nothing.

[scarry]

Tombie, I have removed the aux, with crank showing 12.6v. Left it for another 15 mins and have power again.
Turn key to ignition and there is a sharp 'click' and all goes dead.

The 12.6V could be just a surface voltage,get someone to turn key while you look at voltage at battery on meter.
It may drop down to 8.0V or lower, or whatever,so that battery is shagged or needs a good charge then see how it goes.

Or if no one to help,just put it on a charger overnight.See how it goes in the morning.

[Saitch]

The 12.6V could be just a surface voltage,get someone to turn key while you look at voltage at battery on meter.
It may drop down to 8.0V or lower, or whatever,so that battery is shagged or needs a good charge then see how it goes.

Or if no one to help,just put it on a charger overnight.See how it goes in the morning.
Thanks, Paul.
I started the 'Recondition ' phase on the smart charger, a while ago, so I'll se how that goes.
I did use the D3 to jump start another vehicle, last Saturday. Perhaps too much for it's battery. Did have the revs up, though.

[DiscoDB]

Also check the mega fuse to the starter motor hasn’t blown.

[Gravy]

The 12.6V could be just a surface voltage,get someone to turn key while you look at voltage at battery on meter.
It may drop down to 8.0V or lower, or whatever,so that battery is shagged or needs a good charge then see how it goes.

Or if no one to help,just put it on a charger overnight.See how it goes in the morning.

If you dont have an assistant turn your headlights and your heater fan to apply a load to the battery. If battery is good there should be a minimum decrease in the voltage measured at the battery.

[josh.huber]

Just to be clear, did you try to crank it, or just turn to ignition? If you didn't crank it starter has nothing to do with it

[BradC]

I've had this happen twice. First time was in the D3 and there was an issue with the clamp on the battery earth. Precisely the same symptoms and was rectified by a remove, clean and re-seat both terminals.

The second time was in the wifes Hyundai and the battery developed an internal fault. It'd hold a fine voltage until the load hit a certain point, then it'd just play dead. Like a switch being turned off. I've never seen a fault like it.

[DiscoJeffster]

Are you sure you’re pushing the brake pedal down far enough to disengage the brake switch to get it to start. Many have failed at this point and sit there simply turning the ignition on and off again.

[Tombie]

Are you sure you’re pushing the brake pedal down far enough to disengage the brake switch to get it to start. Many have failed at this point and sit there simply turning the ignition on and off again.

D3. It has a key [emoji6]

[DiscoJeffster]

D3. It has a key [emoji6]

It still has a brake interlock. I never mentioned a button.

[DiscoDB]

It still has a brake interlock. I never mentioned a button.

No brake interlock on starting the D3. But the interlock does stop you taking it out of Park.

[DiscoJeffster]

No brake interlock on starting the D3. But the interlock does stop you taking it out of Park.

Well I’ll be. There you go. How primitive [emoji1787]

[John_D4]

Well I’ll be. There you go. How primitive [emoji1787]

How ever did people survive with such ancient technology? [emoji23]

[DiscoDB]

How ever did people survive with such ancient technology? [emoji23]

It’s a struggle - we even have to open the bonnet to check the oil level, and don’t ask how we can lower ourselves to change the oil. Urghhh!

[Saitch]

I've had this happen twice. First time was in the D3 and there was an issue with the clamp on the battery earth. Precisely the same symptoms and was rectified by a remove, clean and re-seat both terminals.

The second time was in the wifes Hyundai and the battery developed an internal fault. It'd hold a fine voltage until the load hit a certain point, then it'd just play dead. Like a switch being turned off. I've never seen a fault like it.

So, following Brad's advice, I cleaned the terminals and bingo, it fires up first go..........but now the EAS has decided to lower itself to the stops. Aaaargh!

Battery related, or coincidental? Dash error: 'Suspension Fault. 30 mph max'.

Diagnostic tool shows no fault. :wacko:

[DiscoDB]

I would put money on it being voltage related. Clear fault and see how it goes. 🤞🤞[emoji106]

[Saitch]

I would put money on it being voltage related. Clear fault and see how it goes. 🤞🤞[emoji106]

Pressure sensor voltage at all corners is 4.9v.

I have done a 'Hard Reset', to no avail and checked the 70A relay. Relay clicks in and out and shows 0.000 ohms resistance.

I can hear the compressor working normally, too.

Might be time to give my friendly, local auto 'leccie a call and the lure of an ale or two.[bigsmile1]

'Terrain Response' not available either. Due to the lack of height, perhaps?

[DiscoJeffster]

What diagnostic tool are you checking for errors with?

[DiscoDB]

Pressure sensor voltage at all corners is 4.9v.

I have done a 'Hard Reset', to no avail and checked the 70A relay. Relay clicks in and out and shows 0.000 ohms resistance.

I can hear the compressor working normally, too.

Might be time to give my friendly, local auto 'leccie a call and the lure of an ale or two.[bigsmile1]

'Terrain Response' not available either. Due to the lack of height, perhaps?

Did you also do a clear all faults with the tool? Even though no faults may be showing, a clear all request should still send a signal to the ECU’s to clear any present faults that may not be displaying.

And check the TCCM connections behind the battery box. Prior to finding corrosion on the connectors here it used to take multiple attempts to clear the suspension/terrain response fault and it did not always show fault codes.

So I would do hard resets, and resets with the IID tool, and so on until it cleared (prior to finding the issue with the TCCM connectors).

Pays to eliminate as many common causes before taking it to someone who will start all over again.

[Saitch]

What diagnostic tool are you checking for errors with?

I've only got an iCarsoft, which has been sufficient, up to now.

ChookD2 with Nanocom is kindly coming for a drive tomorrow.

[Saitch]

OK. The Nanocom shows a 'Loss of Communication to Ride Level Module', which apparently affects the All Terrain setting, which affect blah blah blah. [wink11]

[DiscoDB]

That is pretty normal - comes up even when there are no problems. If after clearing is doesn’t come up straight away it just indicates at some point the handshake between the modules to check all is OK did not pass.

[Saitch]

That is pretty normal - comes up even when there are no problems. If after clearing is doesn’t come up straight away it just indicates at some point the handshake between the modules to check all is OK did not pass.

Yep. The problem is still there. The 'Fault' comes up immediately. I'm giving the auto sparky a call tomorrow. Hopefully, it is only the battery.

[John_D4]

Yep. The problem is still there. The 'Fault' comes up immediately. I'm giving the auto sparky a call tomorrow. Hopefully, it is only the battery.

Just a thought, you might be better off phoning an Indy instead. They should be in top of all the funny issues that can occur

[Saitch]

OK. All sorted, touch wood.
Using the expertise of our local auto electrician, we ascertained that the compressor was working when getting power. After another hard reset, he unplugged the LLAMS module and we got the console lights to come on, on the 'Height Selector' paddle. On starting the vehicle, all was good. However, on turning off, the 'Suspension Fault' warning appeared again.

Sparky then removed the whole LLAMS wiring harness, plugged back to factory EAS, did another reset and everything appears to be back to normal. [thumbsupbig]

He thinks the LLAMS unit and/or harness, may have copped a spike when the crank battery, negative terminal had bad contact.

p.s. Nanocom states: 'No Faults in any ECUs'.