Engine Oil change?

[Grappler]

With my D300 just ticking over 10000km I thought it wouldnt hurt to change the engine oil and filter

Prepared with a genuine filter and correct oil and my newly acquired oil sucker, I started pumping but could only extract just less than 6 litres
According to the specs (8.8 litres) that's 3 litres short

I wiggled the extraction tube down the dipstick pipe and tried smaller diameter tubes but was unable to go deeper to suckup any more oil

I gave up, replaced the filter and topped up 6 litres of oil. So the result was more of a oil flush rather than a change!

Is it possible I was unlucky and the crank angle was blocking the path of the tube into the bottom of the sump?

Would be great to hear others experience with this issue

[DiscoDB]

Does the engine have an extraction tube?

Normally the dip stick does not go to the bottom as it is only positioned to measure the top few centimetres of the oil level and probably not aligned with the deepest part of the sump.

[scarry]

So no sump plug?

[Grappler]

There is a sump plug but is guarded by a bash plate and the "cardboard" belly cover
My hoist is out of action so suction was the recommended option

[one_iota]

Stephen changed the oil on his P400 with a vacuum pump and extracted the full 8.8 litres:

Fresh Glug the Easy Way; Changing the Engine Oil on a new Defender P400 with a Vacuum Pump - YouTube (https://youtu.be/Y2w4ehemdvU)

As he mentioned is it likely that the hose curled up when it hit the bottom?

[Grappler]

Maybe the tube was curling, but I did move it up and down like in the YT clip. It felt like it was bottoming out though. I did all the things in the video but could only get 5.8 litres

Ill have another go in 5000 km, but will explore making access to the sump plug easier and fitting a stahlbus oil drain

[one_iota]

Maybe the tube was curling, but I did move it up and down like in the YT clip. It felt like it was bottoming out though. I did all the things in the video but could only get 5.8 litres

Ill have another go in 5000 km, but will explore making access to the sump plug easier and fitting a stahlbus oil drain

This might help. He stops prattling about nine minutes in and gets under the Defender:

Fresh Glug the Hard Way: How to do an Oil and filter Change on a P400 Defender - YouTube (https://youtu.be/o9kJzdc4XFs)

[Tombie]

Wow he makes hard work of that!

[Eric SDV6SE]

Likes the sound of his own voice too.... i got bored 2 minutes in

[Eric SDV6SE]

Maybe the tube was curling, but I did move it up and down like in the YT clip. It felt like it was bottoming out though. I did all the things in the video but could only get 5.8 litres

Ill have another go in 5000 km, but will explore making access to the sump plug easier and fitting a stahlbus oil drain

Haven't looked on the new P400 yet, but if it's the same as on the D4,the best bet is to fit the tube over the end of the suckered tube so that it's a tight seal. Remove the filler cap then pump the vac pump, this draws all the oul up the tube and into thr oil suckered. When it's doing that, remove the oil filter. This should get 99% of the oil out.

I found if you stick the tube in, it will only suck oil 'locally'

[DiscoJeffster]

Haven't looked on the new P400 yet, but if it's the same as on the D4,the best bet is to fit the tube over the end of the suckered tube so that it's a tight seal. Remove the filler cap then pump the vac pump, this draws all the oul up the tube and into thr oil suckered. When it's doing that, remove the oil filter. This should get 99% of the oil out.

I found if you stick the tube in, it will only suck oil 'locally'

You’re soon to learn there isn’t a suction oil removal port so people using the dip stick hole is all that’s available. So back to sump plug you are unless you have success getting a tube down the hole into the right place.

[Tombie]

Stahlbus, a small well positioned access on the bash plate and it’s all easy…

[one_iota]

Kris Eric on Facebook has just done a vacuum oil change on his D300 without this problem.

Page not found | Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/groups/782260445928293/user/100004784227094/)

[Eric SDV6SE]

You’re soon to learn there isn’t a suction oil removal port so people using the dip stick hole is all that’s available. So back to sump plug you are unless you have success getting a tube down the hole into the right place.

Yeah back to the old fashioned dipstick (some on aulro will be ecstatic about that), but I reckon fitting a suitable rubber bung OVER the dipstick tube should allow enough vacuum sealing to suction out the oil. I've only done 1800km in the new steed, so early days yet....

[Tombie]

Yeah back to the old fashioned dipstick (some on aulro will be ecstatic about that), but I reckon fitting a suitable rubber bung OVER the dipstick tube should allow enough vacuum sealing to suction out the oil. I've only done 1800km in the new steed, so early days yet....

A dipstick tube will not go to the bottom of the sump, you won’t be able to successfully drain using the method you propose.

[Eric SDV6SE]

A dipstick tube will not go to the bottom of the sump, you won’t be able to successfully drain using the method you propose.

Bugger, Stahlbus fitting then as you suggested....

[Tombie]

Bugger, Stahlbus fitting then as you suggested....

I assure you it’s quicker and cleaner. No vacuum lines to clear and stash. Just a single drain tube, quick rinse, in the plastic bag and back in its pelican case in the car for next change.

[Grappler]

Good news
I did a second intermediate oil and filter change recently at 20000km
This time using the the suction method down the dipstick tube, I extracted the full 8.8 litres
Last time using the same method I only extracted less than 6 litres
Maybe as suggested the tube was curling back up at the bottom earlier

Our local (now out of business) dealer said they use the extraction method rather than the drain plug method

I still plan fitting a Stahlbus or Fumoto drain valve with and access hatch in the bashplate, but am I little concerned about warranty issues

[Tombie]

Good news
I did a second intermediate oil and filter change recently at 20000km
This time using the the suction method down the dipstick tube, I extracted the full 8.8 litres
Last time using the same method I only extracted less than 6 litres
Maybe as suggested the tube was curling back up at the bottom earlier

Our local (now out of business) dealer said they use the extraction method rather than the drain plug method

I still plan fitting a Stahlbus or Fumoto drain valve with and access hatch in the bashplate, but am I little concerned about warranty issues

Only warranty issue would be a failure of the valve and loss of oil. Impossible as the Stahlbus has a cap to secondary seal it

[Eric SDV6SE]

10000km oil service just done the traditional way, bash plate removal and drain via sump plug. I was somewhat surprised to see how black the oil was after "only" 8 months, brought back diesel v6 memories. New genuine filter and just under 9l of castrol edge professional C5 0W20 went in. Still looking into the stahlbus valve modification.

[Tombie]

If your engine oil looks “clean” it’s not doing its job. [emoji41]

[Grappler]

10000km oil service just done the traditional way, bash plate removal and drain via sump plug. I was somewhat surprised to see how black the oil was after "only" 8 months, brought back diesel v6 memories. New genuine filter and just under 9l of castrol edge professional C5 0W20 went in. Still looking into the stahlbus valve modification.

Hi Eric,

Tell us more about changing the oil the conventional way, please

Was it difficult to remove the bashplate and "cardboard " belly cover to get to the plug? The bloke in the video made it look awkward and damaged the "cardboard"
Did you happen to take some measurements referencing the position of a potential access hole cut into the bash plate, relative to the drain?
How is the drain orientated; is it in the bottom or side of the oilpan?

I had fitted a Fumoto drain valve with a small covered access in the bashplate on my recently sold RRS and it was very simple to do an oil change without a hoist or even jacking.
My, dare I say on this forum, "proper" Defender is fitted with a Stahlbus which is great because I can control the oil flow with the drain tube from the horizontally orientated drainport

[Eric SDV6SE]

Edited

Pretty easy, both the front and middle bash plates come off, they are bolted in better than on the D4, take note of what bolt goes where, more for a head count than size related. There are two different sizes, one set for the front needs a 15mm socket, the other set for the middle needs a 10mm socket. The front plate drops down easily, (its aluminium so not as heavy as the 4mm plate i had on the D4 with ARB 'bar), then this gives access to the middle plate. Note there are a couple of hidden bolts that are covered by the fibre board panels. I used a trim clip removal tool to undo the fibre board only at the sides at the rear of the front wheel arches, then you can gently move the fibre board down and get a spanner or socket on the hidden bolts. No need to damage the fibre board panels. Once the middle bash plate drops away, youve exposed the sump. The plug faces down and forward on a leading edge of the sump which is nice. The sump is wrapped in a fibre panel folded panel, with a port to access the sump plug. I didnt remove this panel, its held in by trim clips into the sump. This does mean a dribble of oil may run down the inside of this wrap, but easily cleaned up.

Removed oil filter at the top of the block, opened up the oil fill cap and then removed the sump plug, luckily my oil drain pan holds 10l, it was nearly full by the time the sump was empty. Car was up on axle stands at the front, but sump plug sits low enough that all the oil drains well enough. I did put the oil pan up on a large block to reduce the drop height of the oil. The initial flow is quite fast, so positioning the pan correctly is vital to not get oil everywhere. I put the back edge of the pan at the plug, oil then jets forward into the pan. One flow slows, push the pan back a bit.

Re potential drain port, theres a perfect pressed out section in the bash plate that you could cut out to create an access port. I didnt take measurements, and I'm still in two minds whether to do this mod, I feel that exposing the sump and a drain valve to the risk of getting knocked and losing all the oil is worse than undoing a dozen or so bolts. It took me an hour start to finish to change the oil, including removing and refitting bash plates. Perhaps making a separate bolted smaller cover plate onto the larger bash platewould be best. A piece of alu plate, cut oversize and 4 to 6 suitable bolts into mating nutserts would be my idea.

I bought a 20l drum of Castrol Edge Professional C5 0W20, decanted it into a new 5l empty and filled the engine with 8l, started up and topped off to the correct level.

[Tombie]

My access to my Stahlbus on the D4 is a round hole barely large enough to spin the cap off with my fingers.

[Grappler]

Edited

I bought a 20l drum of Castrol Edge Professional C5 0W20, decanted it into a new 5l empty and filled the engine with 8l, started up and topped off to the correct level.


Because my L663 is a diesel, I used Castrol Edge Professional E-0W-30, which is ST JLR.03.5007 compliant
A few other ST JLR.03.5007 compliant oils for diesel I have checked out are:

Nulon Apex+ 0W-30 Eco Plus C2
APEX+ 0W-30 ECO-PLUS C2 (APX0W30C2) (https://www.nulon.com.au/products/engine-oils/apex-plus/apx0w30c2)

Total Quartz Ineo FDE 0W-30
https://totalenergies.com.au/system/files/atoms/files/tds_total_quartz_ineo_fde_0w-30_ero_202009_en.pdf

Penrite Enviro+C2 0W-30
https://penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis_pdfs/ENVIRO+%20C2%200W-30%20(FULL%20SYN.).pdf

[Eric SDV6SE]

Yep, I spoke to my castrol rep, i sent him the JLR specs and he came back with the actual item codes for 5, 20L, 200L and 1000L (IBC) for that spec oil.

Glad to see Penrite has compliant oils as well.

[Tombie]

I’d be using any of the alternatives above before Castrol went back in my engine. [emoji41]

Entertainingly, no dealer I visited was using C1 in almost any D4/RRS that was Aus delivered as they don’t have a DPF (there is a very small window of a few that did)

[jwb]

I use an eBay electric pump for oil changes on our vehicles. Gets out the full quantity just have to jiggle the tube a bit towards the end.
very quick and easy.

[Grappler]

193244193245193246

I have done another intermediate oil and filter change.
This time I removed the the aluminium "splash" plates I couldnt describe them as bash plates!
With the plates removed I drained the remaining oil the vacuum left in the sump. (about a litre)
I took the opportunity to install a 14-1.5mm Fumoto valve and enlarged the existing middle teardrop shaped cutout towards the front of the vehicle
The pictures show the relative location to allow operation of the valve and fix a drain tube to the valve spigot. The cover is 210mm by 95mm
I also punched out the fibre material to give easy access to the hidden bolts.