View Full Version : Screw in core plug removal 2.25 diesel
460cixy
31st May 2023, 06:50 AM
Any hot tips on removing these I made a tool to remove mine and it’s that rotten it broke the ears off engine is still in the car I’m guessing the only option at this point is remove the engine and carefully chisel the old one out
Homestar
31st May 2023, 08:51 AM
Yeah, not easy. Have only done them when the engines are out thankfully. Have seen more than one vehicle with a hole hacked in the firewall for access to it.
460cixy
31st May 2023, 09:16 AM
Yeah, not easy. Have only done them when the engines are out thankfully. Have seen more than one vehicle with a hole hacked in the firewall for access to it.
This is the one on the side of the block it’s also made of alloy talk about a **** material to use in an iron block
4bee
31st May 2023, 09:24 AM
Yeah, not easy. Have only done them when the engines are out thankfully. Have seen more than one vehicle with a hole hacked in the firewall for access to it.
Maybe no need to hack a hole. If it is the same as the 2.25L petrol (?) you can find it directly behind the LR Data Plates. Cut a hole there( NB with rounded corners) & you have access straight onto the plug. The rest is up to you. [bigsad]
Suggest using s Hole saw.
Rounded corners? Or you will be open to start a Cracking Bulkhead. Cut a hole to the dimensions of those info plates & they will obviously cover the hole nicely.
EDIT. Didn't notice the above post but I'll leave it there maybe info for others.
The side plug seems to be diecast ****metal bung as used in 44 gallon drums. If you can get hold of a drum tool/spanner & have clearance, there may be a chance with plenty of soaking with WD40 just a chance, it depends on how much lug is left in it to grip.
Hope this helps.[biggrin]
WhatIsClocks
3rd June 2023, 08:24 PM
I think I know the ones you're talking about - on the passenger's side of the block, just under the head?
I removed these on my 2.25 petrol while it was out of the car but it's probably doable without going that far. Might need to remove the exhaust manifold to get room, but I ended up drilling some holes in spots that let me use an angle grinder head removal tool on it, came out alright. I wonder if you could tap it with a left-hand thread? If you're not rebuilding the engine I'd imagine you need to be very careful about getting swarf in there.
JDNSW
4th June 2023, 05:41 AM
If it looks like a drum bung, that is almost certainly exactly what it is, rather than the original plug. The original is aluminium and provides (from memory) two shallow holes to turn it by. It also has a different thread (Conduit?), but the diecast is soft enough that it can be screwed into the hole in the cast iron block, with the thread in block cutting a new thread in the BSP thread on the drum bung.
460cixy
5th June 2023, 02:10 PM
If it looks like a drum bung, that is almost certainly exactly what it is, rather than the original plug. The original is aluminium and provides (from memory) two shallow holes to turn it by. It also has a different thread (Conduit?), but the diecast is soft enough that it can be screwed into the hole in the cast iron block, with the thread in block cutting a new thread in the BSP thread on the drum bung.
It’s alloy I made a tool to fit it and the plug just started to fall to bits why not just use brass this is right up there with my flywheel with pressed in bolts some days you just want to cut it up with a grinder and take it all to scrap
incisor
5th June 2023, 03:14 PM
yep they suck
i knocked what i could out and cleaned up the threads with a thread file
i used to sell brass ones that actually fit and hired out a tap that makes cleaning them up easy....
will check the box and see if i still have some available
cheers
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