Binding when reversing

[incisor]

Oddly enough I have an issue that I have not come across before…

When reversing it feels like the drive train has tight spots…

I first noticed I had an issue of some sort when using the handbrake when pointed uphill at a set of lights…. I just about needed low range to pull away again when the lights changed

Today I noticed that when I backed out of a slightly uphill parking spot the drive train was binding in places as I wheeled out and around

Felt like a cv joint but how could it fit in with the first symptom?

Any thoughts oh wise ones?

[DazzaTD5]

it sounds like the yee ole handbrake too tight trick, so it binds in reverse as they do

[p38arover]

A trailing brake shoe when in reverse becomes a leading shoe. Leading shoes have a self servo effect.

As noted above, probably the parking brake too tight. It would have to be just one shoe.

186461

186462

[JDNSW]

Which probably means something is stuck, or the shoe has something sticky (small amount of oil) on it.

[V8Ian]

Out of round drum.

[discorevy]

X5 for handbrake drum/shoe issue

[incisor]

Spent an hour readjusting and going over anything hand brake related but didn’t get to test it yet so will report back once I do

Thank you all

[incisor]

sadly, is no better

will have to pull it apart and see whats going on..

[DazzaTD5]

sadly, is no better

will have to pull it apart and see whats going on..

is it the handbrake binding? as in... neutral handbrake off, can you readily roll it backwards, alternatively jack up the rear end etc

[JDNSW]

Another possible cause (unlikely) is a failing wheel bearing!

[Tins]

Calipers not retracting properly? Caliper loose? WAG.

[discorevy]

Centre diff hasn't engaged inadvertently?, though you'd feel that through the steering on a hard surface.

[Tins]

Centre diff hasn't engaged inadvertently?, though you'd feel that through the steering on a hard surface.
I thought of that too but surely it would be apparent going forward as well?

[discorevy]

I thought of that too but surely it would be apparent going forward as well?

Yep, you'd think. though a struggle to move forward was mentioned.

as previously stated, jacking a wheel should help to zone in on it a bit

[Tins]

Yep, you'd think. though a struggle to move forward was mentioned.

as previously stated, jacking a wheel should help to zone in on it a bit

Indeed.

[incisor]

Lots happening in my life out of the blue this week so haven’t had time to investigate further sorry

Never experienced anything like it in a Land Rover in all the years I’ve had them

[incisor]

Jacked the wheel up at the back and no handbrake binding even with slight pressure on the shoes… that counts that out I believe

Did the front and did full lock either way and no binding banging or other bad behaviour

What’s that leave me with?

Clutch or transfer case?

But why only reverse?

[V8Ian]

CVs? But if there is no noise, particularly on full lock, that's unlikely.
Have you still got the CVs that you got from me? They were to suit a D1.

[Don 130]

I had a similar problem years ago. R380. If in reverse with clutch depressed, and the vehicle rolled backwards, it would bind. releasing the clutch also released the binding, but with a clunk. A gear was climbing over another due to a failed bearing in the gearbox. A rebuild fixed it. Doesn't sound like your problem exactly, but might give food for thought.
Don.

[Tins]

Also unis or the rotary coupler could be worth a look.

[350RRC]

Centre diff hasn't engaged inadvertently?, though you'd feel that through the steering on a hard surface.

My first post on aulro was related to this.

Had weird mild tyre wear.............. thought alignment.............. on the machine............... the man says cdl locked.

Can't be ...............the light isn't on.

Yeah I know now that's really funny, but I hadn't had it long and a mate's 7yo son had been in it on his own.

Drove it nearly 1000 k's and the only noticeable things were the tyre wear and a very slight vibration @ 100 km/h, or so, on bitumen.

There was no difference in steering feel at all and it didn't have PS at the time.

I can't remember which front wheel gets jacked up and 'spun' to see if it's locked atm.

The light has worked on mine for 20 something years now.

cheers, DL

[incisor]

will search accordingly when i overcome this pox of a flu i have at the moment.

thanks all

[Mercguy]

I've got an r380 here from a donor rossignol some years back - which suffered the same symptom as Don130 quoted above - failed layshaft bearing. Being helical cut, the gears will climb over themselves due to the axial thrust created - effectively trying to force the shaft out through the box and if bad enough, you'll be stripping teeth.

The issue was reverse gear bind.

Best if you drop your gearbox oil, check the drain plug magnet (if you have one fitted) for sparkles and then flush the box out with diesel/petrol / solvent and let it dry (compressed air can help) then poke a camera up inside to see if you have any ground teeth edges.

If your box is OK and there is no shaft movement (screwdriver test) then make sure you add some AW-10 to the fluid. I am a fan of using low-vis GL-4 75w simply to keep the box quiet - I'd prefer to run the 7wt Neo Synthetic but the distributor down in Sydney is impossible to get hold of nowadays, ordering it from the US is a PITA. So I dose up on the AW-10 at 7.5% and run full synthetic GL-4 75-90 penrite in the manual box, as there is no point in shelling out $400 for the Neo ATF (which is the same stuff used in the xtrac gearboxes).

I do fear that you have the same bearing failure - it may be only just starting, but it will get worse. Best thing to do is budget for an ashcroft rebuilt box - which is still cheaper than every single quote I've had to get an R380 rebuild done locally (and to top things off, you know the ashcroft box is going to have fixed ALL the inherent issues that come in an R380).

That binding up in reverse is a concern - especially if you have eliminated the handbrake drum.