Brazing or TIG dominant Hand

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

In oxy-acetylene welding or brazing and in TIG it requires two hands to make things happen. One hand holds the torch and the other holds the filler rod. Which hand is more critical to have better control over each function to gain sound welds the torch hand or the filler rod hand?

I am ambidextrous and the last time I did oxy-acetylene welding was in the 1990s. It took me longer than my class members to sort out which hand to hold what part of the set up. I remember my doing a lot of swapping between the torch and the rod between my hands. Ditto the first time I was taught the technique in the 1980s. I cannot remember which hand was best at doing what function.

If I knew which hand was the most critical to have control over the torch or the rod, I could shorten the time getting back into the swing of things.

Kind regards
Lionel

[Slunnie]

I have the torch in my dominant hand as it helps to better control the weld pool.

[Lionelgee]

I have the torch in my dominant hand as it helps to better control the weld pool.

Hello Slunnie,

Thank you for the tip regarding the dominant hand holding the torch.

I realised that today was the first time I had hooked a set of oxy-acetylene bottles up. I have always previously worked in welding stations where everything was plumbed to central supply lines. So, 60 years of age and my first hooking up of bottled oxy-acetylene. Woo-hoo excitement plus...


Regards
Lionel

[scarry]

I have the torch in my dominant hand as it helps to better control the weld pool.

Same here,although we do mainly brazing.

I would like a dollar for every time i have fitted regulators to the oxy/acet set of bottles over the last 45 yrs.[wink11]

FWIW the little oxy/lpg sets the boys use these days work very well.
Apart from the oxy bottles running out all the time and costing about $30 each.[bigsad]
But for work like we do,out and about,mainly brazing,they are excellent.
Will solder up to 1 3/8 copper410 rated pipe.The 410 rated is the thicker copper that takes a lot of heat.(**** stuff,as the boys call it)[biggrin]
But they are more of a pin point very hot type of heat,one has to get used to them after using acetylene all those years.
No cutting tip either,which is a nuisance at times.

[Slunnie]

If it has been a while, make sure you have flash back arrestors on the lines and I always emphasis the flammable always goes first when starting up and shutting down (to extinguish away from the tip).

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I follow a USA based coach builder on YouTube. Not an automotive coach builder - a horse drawn stagecoach and chuck wagon repairer and manufacturer (EngelsCoachShop - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/@EngelsCoachShop)). When he does the steel work for heating up such things as the metal band for the wheel rims he heats the steel up and then while he is working on metal the oxy-acetylene torch is placed on a high stand which is left burning.. Then when he needs more heat he just grabs the torch and reheats and then replaces the torch on a stand. The torch is not turned off and then turned on again each time more heat needs to be applied.

Yes, I do realise that the stand has to be tall enough for the torch to be sufficiently high enough off the ground not to cause the area below it to catch fire. Also, that leaving the torch going while you hammer or bend the hot metal is a waste of gas. Therefore, a waste of money.

I just finished a couple of jobs that involved straightening bent steel. One job required a lot of turning the torch off an on each time I had to use hammers with both hands - hammer and dolly style to straighten out the steel I was working on. It was pretty inconvenient turning the torch on and off. As I did not have a suitable place to put the torch down safety. Even with torch turned off I still had to find a safe place to put down the hot torch down to avoid it setting fire to or melting something.

Yes, I am aware that keeping the torch on while you work on the heated metal is a waste of gas. Yes, gas does cost money.

I am wondering whether people here think have a torch stand is a good idea - or if it is a bad habit to get into?

Kind regards
Lionel

[Slunnie]

You can just hold the Oxy torch in the vice. Don't squeeze it too tightly though.

You can also pass the job in front of the torch while the torch is in the vice, instead of passing the torch over the job if that makes sense.

We just leave the torch going while using it and then shut down when the job is finished.

If it is just for heating rather than welding etc, and cost is a factor, it potentially might be worth looking into Oxy/Propane options. We have never pursuited this option, but I assume (maybe incorrectly) it is cheaper

[Lionelgee]

You can just hold the Oxy torch in the vice. Don't squeeze it too tightly though.

You can also pass the job in front of the torch while the torch is in the vice, instead of passing the torch over the job if that makes sense.

We just leave the torch going while using it and then shut down when the job is finished.

If it is just for heating rather than welding etc, and cost is a factor, it potentially might be worth looking into Oxy/Propane options. We have never pursuited this option, but I assume (maybe incorrectly) it is cheaper

Hello Slunnie,

Thank you for the reply. I was out in the yard working on a bench that does not have a vice. It is good to know that you just leave the torch going.

I have an old plough disc and a length of pipe that is just about the right length. Some square hollow section and some deform bar. The deform bar will be for the torch holder. I think I have found my first MIG welding project. Just have to check with Engel's Coaches to grab a screenshot of his torch holder detail. I seem to recall that the cutting end fits into a ? shaped hook and the hose end just sits in a U. I just need to check it out.

Today, I used the oxy-acetylene to straighten the pin that locks in the height of a bricklayer's trestle and then I straightened one bent leg on the trestle. I bought two of the trestles from the local Tender Centre. One leg of the angle iron 'A' frame was bent when I put my winning bid on it. The next job was to cut the load deck off one of my spare parts Land Rovers that is being broken down into usable parts. It had steel sheeting welded to a 50 x 24 mm rectangular hollow section frame. The frame is very rusty and will be going to the scrap yard. The sheet metal will be going on top of the wooden sleepers that I used for the bench top of a pallet racking work bench.

I just went back online to review the YouTube recommended cutting procedures again. Yes, I see where I could brush up my technique a bit more. When I was cutting the supports off the tray I just kept swapping over the torch with no clear contenders for best feel while operating - I suppose being ambidextrous does have its benefits!

Here is the link to the Engel's Coach Shop with this episode called, Fixing a Buggy Wheel to Git 'er Done - The Cowboy Way Accessed 22nd October 2023 from, Fixing a Buggy Wheel to Git 'er Done - The Cowboy Way | Engels Coach Shop - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HdabxaG2K38). Just a word of caution... this YouTube channel is addictive.

Kind regards
Lionel

[Blknight.aus]

depends on how you use the torch,

if you're turning the thing on and off every minute or so the amount of time and gas you waste is more than the amount of gas that goes out the flame if you just leave it running..

and as impleid by by slunnie, if the stand is good enough you can even hold the torch in it and move your work past the flame if you need to.

if cost is a factor and you're just using it for general heating, one of the venturi style blow torches that run off of a bbq gas bottle is a good option.