2.4 t’s I remap - intercooler upgrade??

[Mustlust]

Have recently replaced the engine with a new crate 2.4 tdci after 150K (not an unusual story apparently) and with 1500 Kms on the clock, am just about to opt for a BAS 150 remap.
My puma is a farm ute and carries a bit of weight from time to time. Town is a 40 min run down the highway, so the remap will be a most welcome improvement.
Q: Is an intercooler upgrade really necessary for the 150 remap move. I would think it was essential on the 170, but possibly not so necessary for the 150.
Comments????

[simonfish]

I just did the BAS 150 upgrade, (on a 2.2 Puma) and after speaking with Peter (from BAS) I also upgraded to the BAS intercooler and BAS silicone hoses.

Why ? I live in Brisbane, tow a one tonne boat (so not real heavy) during hot summer days up north, with long highway runs, I also take it on the beach (no trailer) and Peter suggested it wouldn't hurt to install the intercooler (just to be on the safe side). I also fitted an EGT gauge, and on some recent trips up north, towing the boat, saw 350c post turbo (so generally that would mean 550c pre turbo), so nothing too hot, but something to watch.

None of it was cheap, but nothing with a Defender is, and I prefer to be a bit over engineered , and not running on the edge.

Just my opinion, and what I have done and spent my money on. Very happy with the outcome, and hopefully, the reliability.

[Mustlust]

Did you blank off the EGR tube? How was it changing over the intercooler and fitting the EGT meter? Any pics of the installed gauge?

[DazzaTD5]

Have recently replaced the engine with a new crate 2.4 tdci after 150K (not an unusual story apparently) and with 1500 Kms on the clock, am just about to opt for a BAS 150 remap.
My puma is a farm ute and carries a bit of weight from time to time. Town is a 40 min run down the highway, so the remap will be a most welcome improvement.
Q: Is an intercooler upgrade really necessary for the 150 remap move. I would think it was essential on the 170, but possibly not so necessary for the 150.
Comments????

*The standard intercooler is likely to fail eventually anyway (the 2.4 is not as prone as a 2.2 for intercooler failures).
*keep in mind tunes marketed as "150" etc etc are a bit of a bull**** term, I use a dyno when tuning, every engine will return completely different results, both before and after.
*Manufacturers stated outputs are all bull****, even if you account for the fact manufacturers ratings are at the flywheel and not the road wheels.
*while very convenient to be able to tune your vehicle from home. When it all goes pair shaped your support from a business outside of Australia may be average, ok to not much support at all.
*I recently had a customer have this happen, basically minimal to no support and had to pay me the big dollars to rectify the issues.
*yes the Ford 2.4 and 2.2 can fail but compared to other engines used in Land Rovers both past and present the failure rate is extremely low. Prolly on par with other high volume engines around the world, personally I put it in the better end of engines.
*The biggest cause of failures is faulty injectors, if you hear the death rattle when cold, get the injectors changed.

[DazzaTD5]

Did you blank off the EGR tube? How was it changing over the intercooler and fitting the EGT meter? Any pics of the installed gauge?

*just doing a intercooler on its own makes very little difference but it is a reliable replacement if your intercooler fails.
*if tuning you dont need to blank off the manifold, but if I am doing a tune and turbo package I will blank off the manifold/egr.

[Mustlust]

Thanks Dazza, shame you’re so far away.

[Tikka7mm08]

Brian said my wee puma 90 2.4 could do the 150 remap and upgrade the IC when funds allowed.

[Mustlust]

Glad to here that, the IC upgrade isn’t cheap when added to the remap and possible EGT gauge bill.

[simonfish]

My understanding is that the BAS tune electronically closes the EGR valve, maybe confirm with them ? that is what I was told.

I had an indie install the IC and the redarc gauge (picture attached), he said the IC was a tight fit, but no rubbing or anything, he did a good job from what I can see.

Yes, it is all expensive, but I figure do it properly, then I won't have a problem on the side of the road or on a beach somewhere, and have to pay more money to be towed out, with all the issues of ruining a holiday or week away, etc.

187641

[Mustlust]

My local LR mechanic has a distinct aversion to silicone hoses. Would this be reasonable? I’m surprised as nearly all remap suppliers sell and recommend changing over the original hoses to silicon ones. I bought a set from LandyBitz last year and haven’t installed them based on my mechanic’s opinion of them.

[Mustlust]

Also…..
https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/afdb3d20c3952c9128eb8792d32bf2e6.jpg
How much will these spotlights and the winch impede air flow to the intercooler if I opt for the 150 remap, or 165 remap with performance IC?

[simonfish]

re: silicone hoses, both land rover mechanics I use highly recommend and suggest changing the standard hoses to silicone (the air hoses), they don't sell them, so have no vested interest.

Perhaps ask your mechanic what his concerns are ? I see some people using silicone hoses for the water hoses (which would have higher pressures), maybe he is thinking they are an issue, not the air hoses ?

I personally replaced the standard black rubber hoses with the blue silicone hoses, and am happy with that decision, from what I have read, the standard hoses can split over time, leaving you in 'limp home mode'.

[scarry]

Perhaps ask your mechanic what his concerns are ? I see some people using silicone hoses for the water hoses (which would have higher pressures), maybe he is thinking they are an issue, not the air hoses ?



Many vehicles run higher boost pressures than the coolant system pressures would ever get to.

[simonfish]

Many vehicles run higher boost pressures than the coolant system pressures would ever get to.

yes, good point, i guess a standard Defender Puma 2.2 with 90kw, I am not a mechanic, where would the higher pressures be, boost pressure or coolant pressure. I just struggle to understand why a mechanic would not support silicone air (boost pressure) hoses over rubber hoses, that are known to split.

[DazzaTD5]

*I only stock the silicone hoses, Terrafirma as they fit without any bull**** things like if its a RH drive you have to trim off X amount.
*I use and stock TRIDON hose clamps as they are made is Australia and you can tighten them up hard without the worn drive jumping.
*When fitting silicone hoses make sure they are clean and dry inside, make sure the pipe it's going on is also clean and dry.

*On a 2.2 the last 90 degree elbow that attaches to the inlet manifold I use another genuine one, say every 100K as the silicone ones I have seen never fit very well and seem to be a dog to fit (more than the genuine).

*I suspect some places dont like silicone hoses as they are prone to popping off if you lube the hose and use a cheap hose clamp.

P.S I think silicone hoses used for cooling are a bull**** waste of time

[TonyC]

P.S I think silicone hoses used for cooling are a bull**** waste of time

Hi Dazza,
Why do you think silicone hose are a waste of time for the cooling system?

Tony

[Tombie]

Hi Dazza,
Why do you think silicone hose are a waste of time for the cooling system?

Tony

I'll take a stab at it whilst we wait...

Factory hoses will last 8-10+ years
Silicone more prone to slipping off
Some silicone isnt 100% compatible with Coolant

[TonyC]

I'll take a stab at it whilst we wait...

Factory hoses will last 8-10+ years
Silicone more prone to slipping off
Some silicone isnt 100% compatible with Coolant

Could the same be said for inlet hoses, apart from point 3.

For what it's worth, I have rubber hoses, inlet and cooling, and have never felt a need to change, but I'm always keen to hear peoples reasons for and against.

Tony

[Tombie]

Inlet hoses the silicone is more resilient, and correct ones with increased ply aren’t as prone to delaminating or splitting from heat and boost.

Coolant hoses are more consistent build to pressure and reduce slowly. Less stresses involved.

[DazzaTD5]

I'll take a stab at it whilst we wait...

Factory hoses will last 8-10+ years
Silicone more prone to slipping off
Some silicone isnt 100% compatible with Coolant

yep what you just said and...

as you have to use worm drive clamps it all looks ugly

[DazzaTD5]

*Rubber based intercooler hoses will fail over time due to the oily residue breaking it down, going hard and thus splitting.
*Silicone intercooler hoses dont pop off if fitted correctly.

*Coolant hoses dont suffer this issue as there isnt oil in the cooling system.
*when you have a engine oil cooler fail and it lets oil into the cooling system the coolant hoses will degrade very quickly.

If there is only one good thing to say about newish Jeeps is most use silicone intercooler hoses as standard.

[Murph205]

[QUOTE=simonfish;3208195]My understanding is that the BAS tune electronically closes the EGR valve, maybe confirm with them ? that is what I was told.

I had an indie install the IC and the redarc gauge (picture attached), he said the IC was a tight fit, but no rubbing or anything, he did a good job from what I can see.

Yes, it is all expensive, but I figure do it properly, then I won't have a problem on the side of the road or on a beach somewhere, and have to pay more money to be towed out, with all the issues of ruining a holiday or week away, etc.

187641

That looks good mate
I may have to revisit the double DIN install im doing.