After Market Tilt Tray Kit for Ute

[Saitch]

I wasn't sure where to put this, as it covers all makes and models.

I'm thinking of installing a tilt kit onto my existing ally tray on the 75 Series 'Cruiser. I'm leaning toward 'Electric/Hydraulic'. Some of these kits have one ram, whilst other kits have two rams. I'm thinking that two rams would have less lateral flex than a single, midships ram, or am I over thinking here?


All advice on setup and particular brands (Australian only) appreciated.

Steve

[Blknight.aus]

depending on how the 2 rams system is set up....

2 rams can give you lower operating pressure for the same lift and additional tray stability meaning you can run a lighter body.

very clever use of your hinges and rams will allow 2 rams to provide 3 way tipping.

[Saitch]

Hmm. I never gave 3-way a thought. Thanks, Dave.

[Slunnie]

Electric/hydraulic tipping is perfectly fine for a vehicle, it's almost a stand alone system and a far easier setup that doing hydraulic.

The hydraulic ram is on a swinging hinge at the bottom and a foot with a ball joint at the top, so you don't need to worry about the ram flexing, it doesn't.

For the ram types, I'd recommend the multistage rams. They are far more compact and need a lot less depth under the chassis. The multistage rams also increase their force as required when compressed (ie tray down and the load is on it) and then increase their speed when they are open (ie tray is up).

For the pump you can also get 2 stage with power or speed, although we haven't normally done them on tippers, they're better in other applications.

All of this kit should be readily available from any hydraulics shop or trailer parts supplier. Be warned, that when you get into hydraulics the cost goes up quickly.

You will have to do the fabrication - you can buy or make the hinges.

For 3 way tippers, they are far more complex, even if it is a case of "just doing this and that". At the moment, it is also very difficult to get the corner balls which the tray tips on. We're just about to start another one of these and cant get supply at this stage. The lower mount for the hydraulics is also a bit different to allow the ram to swivel in 2 directions.

Just read the OP again. Yes, you're over thinking it a bit. 1 ram is enough and it is a lot of extra cost for a second ram which isn't needed and which may cause problems anyway if the rams don't extend and contract at the same rate. The tray doesn't move around much as the hinges make sure it is stable. When in the lowered position, little side flanges on the subframe make sure the tray stays located and doesn't move around. The floor of the tray should make sure the parallelogram tray chassis remains square, however with yours being aluminium, it potentially may be a panel floor which wont be suitable - the LC's chassis will keep it square normally. In fact, I would recommend you fabricate a stronger tray for a tipper anyway so that it is strong in the right areas. Trays are very straight forward to fabricate, they just take a bit of planning and time, but you will already be fabricating a subframe to mount the hydraulics and to hinge the tray anyway. Steel and aluminium don't like the mix either.

[Blknight.aus]

For 3 way tippers, they are far more complex, even if it is a case of "just doing this and that". At the moment, it is also very difficult to get the corner balls which the tray tips on. We're just about to start another one of these and cant get supply at this stage. The lower mount for the hydraulics is also a bit different to allow the ram to swivel in 2 directions.




you have my curiosity, the last 2 3 way tippers I saw used a combination of 2 hinges with a captive movable pin at right angles to each other on what looked like a mount plate that integrated the side/tailgate anchor. I didnt get a good look at them but I think it was set up so that in order to remove or open the gate the hinge had to have the pin in the hinge part and not in the locked (which looked like a notch at about the halfway point) or free postiion.

[Xtreme]

..........In fact, I would recommend you fabricate a stronger tray for a tipper anyway so that it is strong in the right areas. Trays are very straight forward to fabricate, they just take a bit of planning and time, but you will already be fabricating a subframe to mount the hydraulics and to hinge the tray anyway. Steel and aluminium don't like the mix either.

My neighbour bought a new Navara ute with a 2500 x 1800 Al tray which he replaced immediately with a heavier duty single hydraulic ram tipping tray.
I now have his original tray fitted to the chassis I built many moons ago - has solid axle machined to take Land Rover Series hubs, brakes and springs.

[Saitch]

Electric/hydraulic tipping is perfectly fine for a vehicle, it's almost a stand alone system and a far easier setup that doing hydraulic.

The hydraulic ram is on a swinging hinge at the bottom and a foot with a ball joint at the top, so you don't need to worry about the ram flexing, it doesn't.

For the ram types, I'd recommend the multistage rams. They are far more compact and need a lot less depth under the chassis. The multistage rams also increase their force as required when compressed (ie tray down and the load is on it) and then increase their speed when they are open (ie tray is up).

For the pump you can also get 2 stage with power or speed, although we haven't normally done them on tippers, they're better in other applications.

All of this kit should be readily available from any hydraulics shop or trailer parts supplier. Be warned, that when you get into hydraulics the cost goes up quickly.

You will have to do the fabrication - you can buy or make the hinges.

For 3 way tippers, they are far more complex, even if it is a case of "just doing this and that". At the moment, it is also very difficult to get the corner balls which the tray tips on. We're just about to start another one of these and cant get supply at this stage. The lower mount for the hydraulics is also a bit different to allow the ram to swivel in 2 directions.

Just read the OP again. Yes, you're over thinking it a bit. 1 ram is enough and it is a lot of extra cost for a second ram which isn't needed and which may cause problems anyway if the rams don't extend and contract at the same rate. The tray doesn't move around much as the hinges make sure it is stable. When in the lowered position, little side flanges on the subframe make sure the tray stays located and doesn't move around. The floor of the tray should make sure the parallelogram tray chassis remains square, however with yours being aluminium, it potentially may be a panel floor which wont be suitable - the LC's chassis will keep it square normally. In fact, I would recommend you fabricate a stronger tray for a tipper anyway so that it is strong in the right areas. Trays are very straight forward to fabricate, they just take a bit of planning and time, but you will already be fabricating a subframe to mount the hydraulics and to hinge the tray anyway. Steel and aluminium don't like the mix either.

Thanks, Slunnie. I've also tee'd up to have a look at a mate's Hilux tilter, when he gets back from holidays.

[Slunnie]

you have my curiosity, the last 2 3 way tippers I saw used a combination of 2 hinges with a captive movable pin at right angles to each other on what looked like a mount plate that integrated the side/tailgate anchor. I didnt get a good look at them but I think it was set up so that in order to remove or open the gate the hinge had to have the pin in the hinge part and not in the locked (which looked like a notch at about the halfway point) or free postiion.
Hi Dave, like this. Sorry for the full size pic, but it is so the detail can be seen.

https://deantrailers.com.au/images/products/no7/Dean-trailers-No.7-HD-3-Way-Tipper-Std-RED-006.jpg

[Rick1970]

The small multistage cylinders are the go these days…..’most’ of the dual single stage ones I’ve seen are just normal AG style double acting cylinders with a breather on the rod side and run as single acting…. Works ok, but end up rusting the barrel in time (air= moisture and the barrel is just burnished/ honed steel).
Allow for the cylinder to be mounted around mid way between pivot and front of tray, and a stroke length to give no more than 55 deg tip angle….. more than that and there is a real chance it won’t lower itself.
Watch for clearance issues as cylinder will hang below chassis line (driveshaft etc)….most have a high mounted trunnions as the lower pivot, ball on top. Usually make up a separate subframe that tray and cylinder pivots are mounted to, and subframe is bolted to chassis. Plan on reinforcing cylinder mount to tray area.
Most of the small 3 way tippers I’ve seen never actually get used as a side tip.