Welcome to the 3D Printing area!

[incisor]

You into Resin or FDM ?

Tell us what you have and what your into....

[Tins]

Thanks for this, Inc. I hope that it gets the use I think it might.

I have a FlashForge Creator Pro 2, IDEX. Prolly a poor choice for a novice. It wants to use FlashPrint as it's slicer ( ugh ), although there is a workaround to use Cura, but it's tricky. The build space is also limited, but the dual extruders have some uses.

I have lots of issues printing PETG, and the poor documentation, for a newbie at least, doesn't help.

PLA is a snap, but of course it isn't appropriate for a lot of applications.

[Tins]

These damned things... I must have printed dozens. They either lose their springiness (PLA), or are way to brittle (PETG). I know it's a setting or two but can't figure it. I was only able to print the PETG ones at all by winding up the temp and speed, or I wound up with a total mess. Trouble is, FlashPrint is quite counterintuitive, at least for me.

187930187931

This model for a sand mould worked ok, printed simultaneously. Build area is too small to do the whole thing.

187932

[Homestar]

Always wanted one and getting closer to buying I think. Will be a resin unit as there will be modelling uses so like the higher resolution they can do.

Good choice for a thread, there’s got to be a few bods here that have them. [emoji106]

[Tins]

Always wanted one and getting closer to buying I think. Will be a resin unit as there will be modelling uses so like the higher resolution they can do.

Good choice for a thread, there’s got to be a few bods here that have them. [emoji106]

Yep. I think you follow Luke Towan. Some of what he does is great. What do I mean "some", it's all great.

Then of course there's these (https://shop.snapmaker.com/products/snapmaker-2-0-modular-3-in-1-3d-printer-a350t-a250t) So many choices.......

[incisor]

ASA would be your friend with the disco light clips


These damned things... I must have printed dozens. They either lose their springiness (PLA), or are way to brittle (PETG). I know it's a setting or two but can't figure it. I was only able to print the PETG ones at all by winding up the temp and speed, or I wound up with a total mess. Trouble is, FlashPrint is quite counterintuitive, at least for me.

187930187931

This model for a sand mould worked ok, printed simultaneously. Build area is too small to do the whole thing.

187932

[Tombie]

Previously dipped my toe in the water with a Trinus (crowd funded) with a very small build plate, but it taught the basics.

Currently running a Prusa Mk3S+ with an upgraded Revo quick change nozzle and customised Cooling shroud.

Have the MMU on its way, and an order for the Prusa XL 5 Head unit which is due early in the new calendar year.


Printer is running 24/7 (no exageration) producing a product set for members of the Presion shooting/Reloading community

[loanrangie]

Dusted off the ender 3 to print some more beer tap covers.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231204/a63dd7b2b131d8e52cc87e89cb76ab11.jpg

[Blknight.aus]

Just got into this game so I can make up some brackets for mounting super caps into a battery box.

What software (preferably free stuff while Im learning) is everyone using

[Tombie]

Just got into this game so I can make up some brackets for mounting super caps into a battery box.

What software (preferably free stuff while Im learning) is everyone using

TinkerCad is a good entry level

Blender

Fusion360 Free - steep learning curve!

[incisor]

Freecad and Prussia slicer

Both free and excellent

[Blknight.aus]

so the kingroon kp5l is now doing its test run....

lots of words around about doing klipper?

is it worth it...

I think it might be because with the addition of a 3d touch module it then lets me autolevel the bed and allows faster transition times when the extuder is not running.

Yes, I know it means I have to learn to drive pi.. and get one.

[loanrangie]

so the kingroon kp5l is now doing its test run....

lots of words around about doing klipper?

is it worth it...

I think it might be because with the addition of a 3d touch module it then lets me autolevel the bed and allows faster transition times when the extuder is not running.

Yes, I know it means I have to learn to drive pi.. and get one.

I'd just familiarize yourself with what you have before doing any upgrades, if you are looking at 3D i have been watching an aussie youtube channel called Teaching Tech.
A very clear and concise series on using Onshape online 3D design software which is free.

[Blknight.aus]

I'd just familiarize yourself with what you have before doing any upgrades, if you are looking at 3D i have been watching an aussie youtube channel called Teaching Tech.
A very clear and concise series on using Onshape online 3D design software which is free.

Working that, and getting very annoyed at having to reset the bed every other print (only testing at the moment so still tweaking settings) to get the .1-.2mm clearance all the way across the bed...

I'm only using an el cheapo kingroon KP5L but now that IVe gotten over a scaling error in the overall setup (10mm was coming up as .1mm so I was getting tiny tiny blobs but really short print times,) for some reason the print resolution was set to .0001 as opposed to .01 Im getting results that are far better than what I need for what I want but as Ive got a whole heap of things to print and Im having issues with bed adhesion which I think are attributable to the bed not sitting perfectly level after Ive pulled a previous model off, the concept of having it calculate where the bed sits between each print and then compensating for it is very appealing.


So far, Im having good sucess with most of the design softwares, Ultimakers Cura is working well enough as the slicer (I like it gives an estimated print time and material estimate).
I tried one print with pursa but it failed dismally Which I think is to do with the Kingroon is not natively supported and I picked a wrong setting for its setup in pursa But Its got some extra features that cura doesnt seem to have withthe ability to vary the print speed with the detail required at various parts of the print being the one I like the idea of most. Getting a nice smooth outer finish and saving time by ripping through the inner fill matrix and the support prints has appeal to me....

I suspect between this and lazer etch/cutting I've just found a new hobby....

I wonder how much one of the 1m3 multi nozzled units goes for.......

[Tombie]

Cura couldn’t calculate print time accurately if it tried to. Absolutely horrible at it!

Prusa Slicer hits it to the minute.

[Tombie]

You referring to Bambu Labs or Prusa XL 5 head units?

The Prusa runs to about $3400 (I have one coming after Christmas)[emoji318]to up my production capabilities.

[Tins]

Cura couldn’t calculate print time accurately if it tried to. Absolutely horrible at it!

You should try FlashPrint!


Prusa Slicer hits it to the minute.

Hmm. There's a project on GitHub to get Prusa Slicer to work with the Creator Pro 2. Gunna have to try that.

[Tins]

This is another good channel for us newbies: Maker's Muse - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/@MakersMuse)

Here's another: Make With Tech (MakeWithTech) - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/@MakeWithTech)

[Blknight.aus]

Cura couldn’t calculate print time accurately if it tried to. Absolutely horrible at it!

Prusa Slicer hits it to the minute.

Dunno, so far its been within a minute on the test prints, and I havent had any sucess in getting a good print to start from pursa which Im assuming is because the type of printer Im using is not in the provided list for pursa and I havent yet got the custom settings dialed in.

If anyone knows what the settings are in pursa to make it work with a kingroon hp5L flick it to me please? I suspect that the bit Im getting wrong is the firmware type. Which I think means its trying to use the wrong custom G codes for setting up. changing the firmware has given me random different fail to print conditions from just doing nothing to shifting the home point to the complete other end of the travel limits... Watching your printer extrude 300x300x300 from the normal home point is an eye opener.

And IVe just tried the USB cable hookup to save swapping the card in and out...

I can find the pirinter on Com4 in and it prints but it behaving like its got a really bad buffering issue sometimes printing a couple of centimeters before pausing waiting and then going again. None of the other slicers are willing to acknowledge its existence.

[Tins]

Appreciate it's not for the exact model, but will prolly be close.


https://youtu.be/pAzWunhUIUQ'si=NOpOuZ9zbOjii6he

[Blknight.aus]

Cura couldn’t calculate print time accurately if it tried to. Absolutely horrible at it!

Prusa Slicer hits it to the minute.

hrmm, prusa went under by a minute, cura was always over.. Not sure which is better if the error scales a 15 hour print would be out by half an hour or more. I think Id rather come back to a finished print thats cooled in place of one thats still printing.


Appreciate it's not for the exact model, but will prolly be close.


https://youtu.be/pAzWunhUIUQ'si=NOpOuZ9zbOjii6he

Nope, they have the exact model in the directory, its just not clearly linked from their website. to that end...

188067

the little whistle is the very first print I got to go sucsessfully, it dowsnt work as its scaled down to 30% size and was initially printed while I was trying to get the printer printing and the scaling sorted.

Then came the benchy, followed by a 10mm ball and a very rough go at my first project, working out how to add, combine and make shapes as I want, came out near enough... Then the snake. That took 5 goes to get close then I got prusa working, spoiled one print because the bed had lost level and the nozzle dragged. The final print with the last of the 300grams of test filament that comes with the printer came out as neat as Id like...


So, another question

Following some initial semi random page 1 google research Ive got the bed set high so the adjusting screw springs are only under light tension...

Am I better off winding the bed down on the adjusting screws and then loweing the Z axis stop to compensate and try to get the bed more stable or leaving it as is and having to deal with manual releveling everytime I get a print sticking.

[cjc_td5]

I have a Prusa Mk3S+, which is light years ahead of my first Mk2 clone printer. I've designed and printed 60+ projects over the years. Everything from a new plug for the laundry tub, to roof rack legs for my D4.

The 1963 Forward Control landy that I'm retromodding has 38 separate printed items in it. Everything from a steering wheel centre cap (with landy motif), various collars and adapters everywhere, dash components, brake line saddles, air inlet snorkel, etc etc...

I'm lucky enough to have a full Microstation CAD software licence, which I can set up the design models in and export as a STL file. I use Cura for slicing, which has worked OK to date.

I've printed almost universally in ABS, which I like because of it's ease of repair or modification using acetone. PETG would be nice for some extra strength, but I could never get it to adhere to the bed satisfactorily.

[Tins]

Another channel I forgot to mention. Second channel from Maker's Muse, and it's often more helpful. He also ofers a PDF book which might be worth a look.


https://youtu.be/NlarOeU9M2c'si=v2CrFvxI3JAU--xf

[Tombie]

Let’s see how this print turns out!

Time remaining is HH:MM [emoji41] due to finish 9am-ish Tuesday

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231210/a3ad89d96787304c285117b681fd247f.jpg

[cjc_td5]

Let’s see how this print turns out!

Time remaining is HH:MM [emoji41] due to finish 9am-ish Tuesday

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231210/a3ad89d96787304c285117b681fd247f.jpgWow, that's a long print! It obviously isn't in the house or else I'd never sleep listening to it....
Most I've done is 36 hours. Now I do the item in 3 prints and glue them together with acetone. Saves running it overnight and on build support also.
[emoji106]
C

[Tombie]

Wow, that's a long print! It obviously isn't in the house or else I'd never sleep listening to it....
Most I've done is 36 hours. Now I do the item in 3 prints and glue them together with acetone. Saves running it overnight and on build support also.
[emoji106]
C

It’s located down in the workshop [emoji41]

Not a single support in the print by design, and a UPS on the printer to ensure power doesn’t impact it.

Damn thing hasn’t been printing for any longer than 2 hours since it was commissioned- I have orders to keep it busy for another month.

I cannot wait for my second unit to arrive early in the new year - 5 print heads and much larger/faster

[cjc_td5]

It’s located down in the workshop [emoji41]

Not a single support in the print by design, and a UPS on the printer to ensure power doesn’t impact it.

Damn thing hasn’t been printing for any longer than 2 hours since it was commissioned- I have orders to keep it busy for another month.

I cannot wait for my second unit to arrive early in the new year - 5 print heads and much larger/fasterHow long have you had your Mk3S+? They're such a nice printer IMO. Auto levelling, will pause a print if filament runs out and allow you to reload and continue, etc. No more printing thin air like my old Mk2 did....

[Tombie]

How long have you had your Mk3S+? They're such a nice printer IMO. Auto levelling, will pause a print if filament runs out and allow you to reload and continue, etc. No more printing thin air like my old Mk2 did....

About a year from memory, I’d have to dig it up.
It’s been a champion.

Customised the cooling set up and added a Revo 6 print head which has made life easier.

It’s a true workhorse and the failed prints can be counted on one hand (usually my fault).

Added a UPS to keep it happy…