Travelling Toolbox

[Astrid14]

Hi everyone.

Just looking to get some info on what to include in an essential toolbox that should be taken everywhere with a TD5 discovery when going offroad, and overlanding.

A toolbox would be a good start. A wrench, some fencing wire... duct tape.. a small hammer, shovel, a nanocom.. but what else?

Maybe i should be a bit more specific and also general. Stuff that might help you fix things that could go wrong on a trip, whether solo or with friends. Not restricting it to a D2 either, would there be some interesting/essential items for a D3/D4 or defender (not the newest iteration, because we know they require both a laptop and roaming internet connection and thats it).


Thanks everyone :)

[V8Ian]

If it's still got locking nuts on the wheels, make sure you have and know where the adapter is.

[scarry]

If it's still got locking nuts on the wheels, make sure you have and know where the adapter is.

Or better still,get rid of them all and replace them with the non locking type.

[chev_1973]

OBD2 scanner a portable handheld one, just plug it in.

it got me out of trouble more than once.

[simonmelb]

I keep the tools I use to service my D2 which all fit in a quite small toolbox.

ie normal hand tools.

Plus:
Fan spanner
Big socket for hub nuts.
Nanocom
Multimeter.
SLS kit to pump up air springs if needed.
Duct tape and cable ties
Tranzmax oil which can be used in transmission, power steering and ACE.

Thats about it.

[Tins]

Not a tool to take with you, but something to do before you go. Take off all your wheels, simply so you know you can. They can tend to stick.... A good clean around the hubs and a little antisieze ( NOT on the threads[bigsad]) can save you a lot of swearing if you are unlucky enough to need a wheel off on the trip.

The above is not necessary if you have steel wheels.

[Tins]

Oh, and IMO the factory wheel brace is useless. So a 27mm single hex socket and a long breaker bar, or a cordless impact gun.

[d2dave]

Or better still,get rid of them all and replace them with the non locking type.

X2 for above. If you go with this option check your spare for a locking nut as well.

I got rid of my locking nuts and ditched the tool. I found out the hard way that there was also one on the spare.

Spare had a cover so hadn't seen it.

[V8Ian]

Oh, and IMO the factory wheel brace is useless. So a 27mm single hex socket and a long breaker bar, or a cordless impact gun.
You'll still need a decent wheel brace, do not tighten the wheel nuts with an impact gun, ​It's fine to run them up with the gun, but tighten them by hand.

[RANDLOVER]

HP/LP fuel pump or have it changed awhile before the trip as that can be a show stopper.

[RRT]

You'll still need a decent wheel brace, do not tighten the wheel nuts with an impact gun, ​It's fine to run them up with the gun, but tighten them by hand.


Actually got a Ryobi rattle gun that is rated at 140Nm for this very purpose. Later ones are higher torque than the recommended. Suppose check out cash convertors or such for an older gun!

[chev_1973]

Excellent idea, I recommend a ratchet and socket for every car you have in the house, the factory ones are a joke.

[sharmy]

A good idea is to get some short lengths of various size alloy tubing (most slip inside each other ) and some hose clamps. These are good for repair of blown hoses.

[AndrewMilne]

Hi Astrid14,
I think the following items would make sense:

Tyre pressure gauge

Temporary repair kit for tread-area punctures in tubeless tyres ("plugs" and tools for inserting them).
If you don't know about these, or how to use them, it would be a good idea to find out.
In any case, it's a good idea to HAVE them with you, so that someone else can help you even if you can't do it yourself.
Such a kit is pretty cheap (probably less than $25)

12-volt air compressor for re-inflating tyres after reducing tyre pressures to traverse soft sand (or other conditions requiring that).
You DON'T want to drive at highway speed on tyres that have been deflated to cope with other conditions.

Andrew

[AndrewMilne]

Hi Astrid14,

I should also mention that you should make sure that you know where your jack is located, and that it works properly.
It's difficult to change a wheel otherwise!

Andrew

[BradC]

A good idea is to get some short lengths of various size alloy tubing (most slip inside each other ) and some hose clamps. These are good for repair of blown hoses.

I was going to suggest this. I do it with copper, but frankly whatever works. Nothing like being able to cut and shut a leaking hose and if you get your sizes right they all slide inside each other, so it's a chunk of metal and an assortment of worm drive hose clamps. In addition, a roll of silicone self-amalgamating tape for those pesky coolant leaks you don't have a pipe and clamps for. Additionally :

A golf tee or two can be handy for plugging holes. I keep some > 700mm cable ties for when the kids are being a pain to allow me to tie them to a stump (the threat is usually enough). 5 minute epoxy, superglue, loctite (or nail polish). Fuses, a decent multi-meter, gas soldering iron, heatshrink, a hot air gun, side cutters, crimps a crimping tool, a small selection of resistors, diodes, one of each lamp in the vehicle, a spare brake switch, 4 or 5 meters of various cable sizes, stainless steel wire, stainless steel cable ties, a small 400g propylene cylinder and blow-torch, a small butane torch/cigarette lighter....

Ok, maybe I get a bit carried away, but most of it fits in a small tool bag under the drivers side middle row seat.

Oh, cotton buds and toothpicks. Both invaluable.