Yet another non start post, seeking help in Geelong

[fourbee]

Hi there, after 5+ years of lurking on these forums, including a top and bottom end rebuild on my td5 d2 2002 facelift, I think I'm a bit stuck on my own. Car is 372k with 7k on engine

I've had intermittent m&s light XYZ switch related issues with my auto d2, fixing This by either restarting the car in N or moving through the gears slower.


Since the bottom and top end rebuild last year, I've had zero issues, leaking a little power steering fluid and oil, but that's always to be expected. At least it's not drinking water.


On Tuesday I went to start it up to crank, fired for a second but no start. Tried priming 5+ times still nothing. Started my diagnosis mode and immediately went to the CPS as I didn't replace it and believed it was overdue. No go. Checked the immobiliser, the inertia switch and the wiring loom, as well as oil in the ECU loom. Pulled the rocker cover, injector loom is fine. I did new injector seals myself last year with rebuild. Sounded like a fuel problem (as my fuel pump was super whiny and voltage through 30a fuse was 18.3).
replaced the pump on Saturday, no fix, but oh well it probably needed doing. Checked the non return valve, poked a hole through it, no start.

I have two good batteries, both of which are good as last electrical problem I had was the alternator


Yesterday I changed the fuel filter and the non return valve, primed and still no start. I've tried moving the car through gears as part of my suspected it's the XYZ stopping start. So I've got the car on trickle charge, and will probably pull it and repair to fix the m&s gremlins, but I feel I'm running out of things it could be.

I'm reaching out to ask if anyone around Geelong has access to a nanocom I could use, I feel if I have access to fault codes it may help me out. Happy to pay cash and or beverages of your choice.

This forum has been a great help over the years and I'm hoping to do the same once again. Any thoughts?

[fourbee]

Just to add to this, every fix, especially related to fuel, I've primed the system 10-15 times. There's no air in there

[RRT]

PM sent

[fourbee]

Thanks RRT this is a brand new account so I can't respond to your PM but I'll take you up on that if no one closer helps out :)

[Bohica]

If you fuel pump is super whiny, it could be the pump. Are you getting a strong fuel flow?

[fourbee]

I've already replaced the fuel pump, and uncoupling the line at the FPR ****es diesel everywhere

[Tins]

Is the MIL on? If so then my go to would be the CPS or it's wiring. Even if it isn't I'd still check. Even if it's a little loose it can cause a non start. How did you check it?

I'm tipping with 7K on the engine the injector harness is ok.

Can't help with the nano, I'm a little too far away.

[discorevy]

Hi there, after 5+ years of lurking on these forums, including a top and bottom end rebuild on my td5 d2 2002 facelift, I think I'm a bit stuck on my own. Car is 372k with 7k on engine

Since the bottom and top end rebuild last year, I've had zero issues, leaking a little power steering fluid and oil, but that's always to be expected. At least it's not drinking water.

On Tuesday I went to start it up to crank, fired for a second but no start. Tried priming 5+ times still nothing. Started my diagnosis mode and immediately went to the CPS as I didn't replace it and believed it was overdue. No go. Checked the immobiliser, the inertia switch and the wiring loom, as well as oil in the ECU loom. Pulled the rocker cover, injector loom is fine. I did new injector seals myself last year with rebuild. Sounded like a fuel problem (as my fuel pump was super whiny and voltage through 30a fuse was 18.3).
replaced the pump on Saturday, no fix, but oh well it probably needed doing. Checked the non return valve, poked a hole through it, no start.

Yesterday I changed the fuel filter and the non return valve, primed and still no start. I've tried moving the car through gears as part of my suspected it's the XYZ stopping start. So I've got the car on trickle charge, and will probably pull it and repair to fix the m&s gremlins, but I feel I'm running out of things it could be.


If it's cranking and the red light on the dash is on then it's immobiliser related.

If it's cranking, there's no engine light on and the tacho needle is moving, it's not the CPS.

If the new pump is still cavitating, even a little, you might need to do the injector washers again ( using OEM or genuine and clean the carbon off thoroughly, especially the head faces ).

If it's not cavitating, then look at things like the cam timing being out due to loose cam sprocket bolts as I've seen that one after a "rebuild" before.

Also, it'd be great if you could let us know what it was as most of the time after myself and others post, people that join the forum in order to fix a problem don't get back with the answer. (Not saying you wouldn't, only that most don't)

P.S. If the D2 is a keeper, get a Nanocom

cheers

[fourbee]

Is the MIL on? If so then my go to would be the CPS or it's wiring. Even if it isn't I'd still check. Even if it's a little loose it can cause a non start. How did you check it?

I'm tipping with 7K on the engine the injector harness is ok.

Can't help with the nano, I'm a little too far away.


No Mil light on, and I replaced the CPS as well as inspected the break points in the sheath of the wiring, there's no visible copper or fray in the wire.

[Tins]

No Mil light on, and I replaced the CPS as well as inspected the break points in the sheath of the wiring, there's no visible copper or fray in the wire.

Then immobiliser? The inertia switch? I've forgotten if that last one prevents starting or cranking.

Echo the "get a nanocom" thought. Closest member to you that I know of that might have one is in Willy.

[fourbee]

If it's cranking and the red light on the dash is on then it's immobiliser related.

If it's cranking, there's no engine light on and the tacho needle is moving, it's not the CPS.

If the new pump is still cavitating, even a little, you might need to do the injector washers again ( using OEM or genuine and clean the carbon off thoroughly, especially the head faces ).

If it's not cavitating, then look at things like the cam timing being out due to loose cam sprocket bolts as I've seen that one after a "rebuild" before.

Also, it'd be great if you could let us know what it was as most of the time after myself and others post, people that join the forum in order to fix a problem don't get back with the answer. (Not saying you wouldn't, only that most don't)

P.S. If the D2 is a keeper, get a Nanocom

cheers

So I gave it a crank over and there's no tacho movement whatsover, however no engine light either. This would mean faulty CPS/wiring right?

Just got under it for an hour redoing the wires for the CPS with the old hard plastic removal taking the most time of any of it. No signs of damage from where it splits off, from the main loom + starter/water/FPR wire, these are all in reasonable nick too.

There's absolutely no air in the system, and i pulled that o ring plastic cover off and chain tension seems fine, Sprocket bolts are all fine looking.

At this point I think I should really purchase a nanocom. something i've been putting off for a long time. Any suggerstions where to get one that's not a UK import? :)

[RRT]

Shop - Product NANOCOM Evolution for TD5 Discovery II kit - NANOCOM Diagnostics (nanocom-diagnostics.com) (https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/shop/product/ncom02)

They have 15% off till Christmas Promo code - XMAS23

sent PM re happy to come down now!

[fourbee]

Shop - Product NANOCOM Evolution for TD5 Discovery II kit - NANOCOM Diagnostics (nanocom-diagnostics.com) (https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/shop/product/ncom02)

They have 15% off till Christmas Promo code - XMAS23

sent PM re happy to come down now!


Thank you very much, I'll message you in a moment once I smash out some quick posts to get to the pm unlock :)

[RRT]

Well put the Nanocom and on cranking, the voltage drop was roughly 2.5V from 12.1V. The battery was changed to a freshly charged one at 12.4 and again similar voltage drop which to my understanding will not allow the ECU to kick in.

The revs were around 300rpm when cranking so the CPS is seemingly fine.

What can lead to the voltage drop on both batteries?

[Blknight.aus]

Well put the Nanocom and on cranking, the voltage drop was roughly 2.5V from 12.1V. The battery was changed to a freshly charged one at 12.4 and again similar voltage drop which to my understanding will not allow the ECU to kick in.

The revs were around 300rpm when cranking so the CPS is seemingly fine.

What can lead to the voltage drop on both batteries?

depending on where you measured the voltage from... IF you were on any of the body electrics or using the indicated voltage from the nanocom

The startermotor.

Start checking your earths and the main lead to the starter/relay/fusible link box as well as the links and fuses.

If you were across the battery terminals

Bad connection to the battery Check all your battery connections

If you were on the battery posts...

Bad battery.

[RRT]

IT was the Nanocom!